So the fateful day has arrived.
I'm going to try a couple of different things out to see which is best assuming either work. If they don't produce the results I will try something else.
I went for Fertan on the first corner. Cost delivered £12.65. The company came recommended and I'm hopeful that this will be an easy, quick and relatively cheap way to sort this rust out. I chose the spray on & leave for 24 hours, pressure wash, then paint product - (they have several different ones). Still easy, quick and cheap normally doin't work!
Wire brush attachment on the drill, some hand brushing and spray on the magic.
Took about 20mins max. Its like black water and I used a brush to push it into to niches & crannies. I was careful to keep it off caliper paint.
After an hour there seems to be a fairly thick almost varnish quality to the product. It hasn't dripped off so minimal mess but I expect the pressure washer will take care of anything on the drive.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/l9bzfgikf/Fertan.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5nunvi6m3/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/modk49jof/RF1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8up7f7r2z/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/bc0ymjvkv/fr2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/n14yaimjf/)post a picture (https://postimages.org/)
No 'after pressure washer' picture?
Next you'll be telling us we will have to wait for tomorrow's instalment! ::)
Quite a bit of rubber in that area. Any precautions needs around the gaitors (which autocorrect wanted to put as fairies!) and hoses from the instructions?
Nice little write up, I think we all should be very interested in the result as all our cars are getting into this territory now. Look forward to the outcome.
Channelling my inner StuC now, will doing this fuse all the nuts and bolts in position ?
No 'after pressure washer' picture?
Next you'll be telling us we will have to wait for tomorrow's instalment! ::)
Yep in 24hrs after the magic has happened - or not...
Quite a bit of rubber in that area. Any precautions needs around the gaitors (which autocorrect wanted to put as fairies!) and hoses from the instructions?
Instructions say nothing about be careful of rubber. I haven't been careful of rubber. We will see!
Will doing this fuse all the nuts and bolts in position ?
I hope not. No fuseing warnings either. Ohmigod!
He he he we just like to worry you.
Well the next corner & experiment.
I thought I would try this 'cause its easily available at Halfords. I'm bound to need it for other stuff too so it might be more cost effective? Anyway its £15.50 for the whole drum.
I I used the drill and wire brush attachment like before, and slathered the stuff on witha paint brush especially cropped to short length bristles /£1.50. Instructions say to put on a coat or three every half hour. I've put one one so far. Its more arduous - lyiong on the tarmac, wriggling about under the car, missing bits and wriggling back underneath again. No hard work but Fertan is waaaay ahead on points for application!
Takes about 15mins per coat. No damage to hands. No warnings about damaging stuff either so I'm in the lap of the gods... I'm going to do at least two coats.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/3v0xypxn3/rust_r.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/soahzdgnf/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/t11w5pyz3/rust3.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/8gx278j7v/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/uu9uqqaxb/rust4.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/cepdtbwsr/)
I cann.... I cant control it. Inner StuC stop noooooooo!!!
Will this not erode all your bolts and joints ?? I'm sorry :(
Quote from: wotugonado on May 18, 2018, 15:43
I cann.... I cant control it. Inner StuC stop noooooooo!!!
Will this not erode all your bolts and joints ?? I'm sorry :(
My work here is done! :)
I cann.... I cant control it. Inner StuC stop noooooooo!!!
Will this not erode all your bolts and joints ?? I'm sorry
I hope not, but if it is going to, I can't do anything about it now.
So Hammerite Rust Remover Brings Back Bare Metal score 2/10
Disappointed.
I rated this stuff above zero as it does clean road crap of quite well. Reasonably good at cleaning stainless too. Minimal effect on the rust underbelly of my little Ninja. I ultimately did four coats as per instructions. Back to the drawing board.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/4tvjpqltb/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tadpk7mjv/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/6a727monj/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/bydcyiszv/)
The surface rust came back immediately after washing it all off a la pressure washer so thats not a real problem.
Maybe Fertan will have great results tomorrow?
Inccidently all this rust was treated by Kurust a year ago so thats another product to consign to the bin.
Quote from: MR TWO on May 18, 2018, 16:25
I cann.... I cant control it. Inner StuC stop noooooooo!!!
Will this not erode all your bolts and joints ?? I'm sorry
I hope not, but if it is going to, I can't do anything about it now.
This was more of a wind up than a real question :)
It really didn't do much by the looks of it, It would need to be really agressive stuff to strip back to bare metal, probably not something they would sell over the counter. Fingers crossed for the fertan then.
You gave it a shot and I'm sure the end result will help a lot of mr2 owners in the future, but possibly not make hammerite much profit
Are you going to be trying "rust remedy". That is supposed to convert the rust rather than actually remove it and then needs painting.
I have always steered clear of rust treatments you have to wash off afterwards....
Look forward to hearing about the other 2 corners!
Quote from: Topdownman on May 18, 2018, 19:02
Are you going to be trying "rust remedy". That is supposed to convert the rust rather than actually remove it and then needs painting.
I have always steered clear of rust treatments you have to wash off afterwards....
Look forward to hearing about the other 2 corners!
I'm open to suggestions Simon. Who makes Rust Remedy? I will google it and see if I can get some tomorrow!
I have just bare metalled everything with an angle grinder with wire knotted wheel attachments (much more aggressive than a drill). Then primer and paint with rustoleum products. I am confident it will now last longer than the rest of the car.
If I was concerned after the bare metallic, I have acid which I use on older rusty'er cars - but did not feel the level of corrosion justified it on the MR2.
A strong phosphoric acid is the industrial version of what all the fancy branded products claim to do.
Quote from: frogger on May 18, 2018, 23:40
I have just bare metalled everything with an angle grinder with wire knotted wheel attachments (much more aggressive than a drill). Then primer and paint with rustoleum products. I am confident it will now last longer than the rest of the car.
If I was concerned after the bare metallic, I have acid which I use on older rusty'er cars - but did not feel the level of corrosion justified it on the MR2.
A strong phosphoric acid is the industrial version of what all the fancy branded products claim to do.
I admire your perseverance, but I am realistic enough to know that I will never get into all the little nooks and cranies & I am not taking the car apart to sort this out.
Still congrats on getting yours done. Got any pics?
Quote from: MR TWO on May 18, 2018, 23:38
Quote from: Topdownman on May 18, 2018, 19:02
Are you going to be trying "rust remedy". That is supposed to convert the rust rather than actually remove it and then needs painting.
I have always steered clear of rust treatments you have to wash off afterwards....
Look forward to hearing about the other 2 corners!
I'm open to suggestions Simon. Who makes Rust Remedy? I will google it and see if I can get some tomorrow!
Should find it easily;
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Loctite-Rust-Remedy-90-ml/product-reviews/B000TAPAUG
I just rang Meg & Harry and of course they are disappointed but following yesterdays (lack of) results I thought it best to press on. Jose was inconsolable, but y' know Jose.
On a reccomendation I bought a large bottle of Locktite Rust Remedy. The bottle is not at all large and cost £10.20. Its possibly cheaper elsewhere, but it was a local shop that has parking. I bought a couple more brushes for a £1.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/jocbydfyn/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ghhseqvij/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/omzucxu27/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/oa8g6rbsb/)forum image hosting (https://postimages.org/)
The second pic is how your rust looks after four coats of hammerite Rust Remover....
The Loctite is supposed to turn the rusty metal black after 15mins, and might take two coats. Its the consistency of milkshake, so its not messy. I tried some on my hands and no problem there either.
Scrambling under the car and applying roughly takes 15 mins or a total of 25 for two coats.
Fingers crossed.
Loctite Rust Remedy cont'd score 2/10
In the end I put on 4 coats which used around half the container.
The surface does not go black as you can clearly see from the pics below. For good measure I put some on the brake disk to see if even there on thin surface rust whether the rust would actually turn black - again nothing.
So looking at the nice grey surfaces, I wondered whether the rust had actually been remedied? The only way to find out was to scratch it with a screwdriver and find out what was beneath. Unsurprisingly, there was the rust, dusty orange as before...
(https://s9.postimg.cc/3t1a0de4v/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/p2owb7uff/)
After screwdriver reveals what is really underneath
(https://s9.postimg.cc/ang63rlv3/final1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/d4rxb15rf/)upload images (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/oeg1s00rz/final2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/tpuycpmuj/)imag (https://postimages.org/)
No black results even on surface rust after 2 coats
(https://s9.postimg.cc/4ju05zggf/disc.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/rlalbqg3v/)
Rust Remedy coats your cup equally well...
(https://s9.postimg.cc/715rdl867/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/vufbe8r6j/)
This is imo a type of sealant paint. It might seal the rust in so well it never comes back? It certainly does not cure any rust or transform rust into a black pseudo metal.
Frankly spraying on Hammerite paint is probably just as good and a good deal easier and faster for much less money. Overall a waste of my time. Next!
(https://s9.postimg.cc/62tzolwy3/IMG_20180519_1159466.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/62tzolwy3/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/7glmk9bqj/IMG_20180519_1200148.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/7glmk9bqj/)
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(https://s9.postimg.cc/e723thgu3/IMG_20180519_1256019.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/e723thgu3/)
Quote from: frogger on May 19, 2018, 14:45
(https://s9.postimg.cc/62tzolwy3/IMG_20180519_1159466.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/62tzolwy3/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/7glmk9bqj/IMG_20180519_1200148.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/7glmk9bqj/)
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You got a lot done there amigo. And on another green car (mines green really - its just dressed up as a white one).
It isn't perfect by a long shot - but 100 times better than it was, and the best rust removal is certainly to literally remove the rust!
This was in conjunction with doing a weld repair to the crossmember and replacing the suspension - so was taking things apart anyway.
So how's the fertan doing ?
You will certainly need to paint on top of the rust remedy with something like hammerite or rustoleum.
In my mind it gets rid of the rust thats present so you can paint so it has a chance of lasting a bit longer before it needs doing again. Otherwise you would have to paint on top of rust which is not going to last very long.
Whats next on the list?
Fertan 24hour Converter 0/10
I pressured washed it off - tbf the instructions said wash it off but may as well do a job properly right?
(https://s9.postimg.cc/clrffmlrz/fer1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/682ccdgvv/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/zagmf8dgf/fer2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5ijk01qmz/)
The results are there plain and clear. No conversion whatsoever.
Now its possible that this Fertan coates the rust in a thick plastic like coating which could stop air reaching the rust. As before with the Loctite, a couple of thick coats of spray on Hammerite is easier, cheaper, and probably every bit as good if only because it doesn't wash straight off!
On a side note, the Hammerite rust remedy cleaned up the inside rims of my wheels. Not really an important job, but this stuff does at least clean stuff up!
So the shops are closed now for the weekend, so more follows soon. Not much more though. I'm going to try a more expensive product and see if throwing cash at the problem gets a result or simply wastes even more money.
My feeling is it seems more and more apparent that quick & reasonable cost fixes are non existant. Regular spraying with black Hammerite becomes more and more the obvious solution...
I you have or can get an air compressor, use a soda blaster. No harm to rubber etc. Cleans off all the surface rust and the nooks and crannies. Will need a face mask. Lots of dust involved that just washes away when it rains
Quote from: KRAMSNEHPETS on May 19, 2018, 16:09
I you have or can get an air compressor, use a soda blaster. No harm to rubber etc. Cleans off all the surface rust and the nooks and crannies. Will need a face mask. Lots of dust involved that just washes away when it rains
That doesn't sound like a bad idea!... Maybe (depending on how much the compresor is to rent) there will be two more solutions to try. Thanks!
I just cleaned the coffee cup I used for the Loctite -hot water and a dish cloth dissloved that stuff easily.
I'd really recommend looking at the Bilthamber range, notably the Hydrate products. Really good rust conversion, or their Deox products for removal. Brilliant stuff!
That's the one deox-c ,I've been trying to think of the product name all day. Good shout.
Just started cleaning the underside of my car as well.
I tried Hydrate 80 Rust Killer as a rust converter. Used wirebrush attachment to drill and flat head screwdriver to remover the surface first.
Been on now for 48 hours
Quote from: moredun on May 20, 2018, 13:51
Just started cleaning the underside of my car as well.
I tried Hydrate 80 Rust Killer as a rust converter. Used wirebrush attachment to drill and flat head screwdriver to remover the surface first.
Been on now for 48 hours
Hi,
Have you got a pic of the rust after the Hydrate 80 has been on for 48hrs - I am hoping that these pics are the before treatment?
the pics are after the treatment.
Radiator mounting bracket was done while changing the radiator, bolts where untouched. Also treated around the bonnet stop etc,
Paint was left undamaged, but any rust turned blackish. Leaves a very hard surface and ready for primer or painting.
The crossmember was as bad as the rust you see elsewhere, but has turned mostly black where I applied the treament.
As a rust converter, this works well, but the finish you get depends on how much rust you remove fist.
After I fix a PAS oil leak and de-grease the drivers side, I intend to treat the rest of the underside. Then I will use a zinc primer and spray everything with underseal.
Quote from: moredun on May 20, 2018, 15:16
the pics are after the treatment.
Radiator mounting bracket was done while changing the radiator, bolts where untouched. Also treated around the bonnet stop etc,
Paint was left undamaged, but any rust turned blackish. Leaves a very hard surface and ready for primer or painting.
The crossmember was as bad as the rust you see elsewhere, but has turned mostly black where I applied the treament.
As a rust converter, this works well, but the finish you get depends on how much rust you remove fist.
After I fix a PAS oil leak and de-grease the drivers side, I intend to treat the rest of the underside. Then I will use a zinc primer and spray everything with underseal.
OK I'm kinda confused!
Pic 1 is the bottle of Hamber
Pic 2 shows a black metal bracket.
Pic 3 shows a black bar and lots of rusty metal either side.
Are you saying that in Pic 1, the black bracket used to be rusty?
In pic 2 was the black bar rusty like the metal either side before treatment?
Its very hard (for me!) to get an idea of what is treated and what is untreated as theres no before pics to make a comparison.
Have you scraped or scratched the black to see if its still rusty underneath? The Loctite and Fertan appeared to have cured the rust on my car - until I looked underneath and found it was more like a painted cover!
Do you think that if I were to put this on my rusty parts that they would lose the rust colouring and in fact be some kind of metal? Like rust without the oxidation?
Sorry to be a pain!
JEZ
The rust will go very hard and black. If you're scraping away to find underneath, then you haven't prepared it properly. You get the worst off with deox C or Gel or a wire brush then paint Hydrate over the top. It can just be left with that if you're i a hurry, but ideally a course of zinc primer, underseal (if it's under the car) and then a top coat if required is the best method.
I've used it a fair amount in my thread - https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63117.0 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63117.0)
Bilt Hamber don't have any stoclists with 20 miles of my postcode - I rang them to check. Nevermind the well known auction site can get me some by Wednesday as opposed to Amazon who would do the same but for an addition £20 (outrageous).
I'm quite excited at the prospect of buying a rust remover / cure / remedy that actually works and is not just some type of snake oil.
Speaking of snake oil, I called Halfords customer service and told them their rust remover doesn't remove rust. They called the store on my behalf and said that I should go back and speak with the manager. I'll let you know how that works out.
I also contacted Fertan via ebay for a refund and Loctite too.
Quote from: MR TWO on May 21, 2018, 10:02
Bilt Hamber don't have any stoclists with 20 miles of my postcode - I rang them to check. Nevermind the well known auction site can get me some by Wednesday as opposed to Amazon who would do the same but for an addition £20 (outrageous).
I'm quite excited at the prospect of buying a rust remover / cure / remedy that actually works and is not just some type of snake oil.
Speaking of snake oil, I called Halfords customer service and told them their rust remover doesn't remove rust. They called the store on my behalf and said that I should go back and speak with the manager. I'll let you know how that works out.
Opie oils have offers on Bilt hamber products at the moment and they're an affiliate. Might be worth a look?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 21, 2018, 12:28
Opie oils have offers on Bilt hamber products at the moment and they're an affiliate. Might be worth a look?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would have bought if from an affiliate if I realised they sold it. I really must look at their site. In the meantime ebay have it en route. Thanks though!
Quote from: MR TWO on May 21, 2018, 13:23
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 21, 2018, 12:28
Opie oils have offers on Bilt hamber products at the moment and they're an affiliate. Might be worth a look?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would have bought if from an affiliate if I realised they sold it. I really must look at their site. In the meantime ebay have it en route. Thanks though!
No worries, I only know because I'm on the email list from previous purchases.
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/search/go?w=bilt%20hamber
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 21, 2018, 13:30
Quote from: MR TWO on May 21, 2018, 13:23
Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 21, 2018, 12:28
Opie oils have offers on Bilt hamber products at the moment and they're an affiliate. Might be worth a look?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I would have bought if from an affiliate if I realised they sold it. I really must look at their site. In the meantime ebay have it en route. Thanks though!
No worries, I only know because I'm on the email list from previous purchases.
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/search/go?w=bilt%20hamber
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Guess what, looking at my paypal reciept, the supplier is Opie. So our affiliate got the business afterall. Thats good.
Credit where credit is due Halfords gave a full refund with apologies and a bottle of car polish! Thats good customer service.
Loctite sent me an email
"From the photographs supplied indication are that the issues experienced may be attributable to the severity of the corrosion which is likely to be beyond capability of any rust treatment product."
Along with a full refund. So thats OK.
Lets see if Bilt Hamber have the capability to go beyond where any rust remover has gone before!
Maybe they should change the product description to "minor oxidisation remover" to avoid ambiguity?
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on May 21, 2018, 20:49
Maybe they should change the product description to "minor oxidisation remover" to avoid ambiguity?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I agree a name change is certainly required. Perhaps "Pants down expensive undercoat -10pence a millilitre- with vague possibility of some (albeit not much) rust conversion". Though tbf that doesn't have much of a ring to it...
(https://s9.postimg.cc/h473h844v/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/z7068fzzf/)
Will this be Mana from Heaven or am I about to spend another day practising to be a pitlane wheel changer?
24 hour delivery at no extra cost. Excellent start.
Anyone wondered that Toyota might use orange steel to make the "underside bits"?
All to be revealed!
Well its on the two corners that have seen off the other products. This stuff has the texture of soft lard which for younger people is similar to I can' believe it not butter than has been out of the fridge for some time.
The instructions suggest keeping it out of the sun so I've put the wheels back in place the give shade. The transformation from orange to silver is estimated to require one to six hours. I'm hopeful!
Sometimes with car repairs, when its not going exactly (or at all) to plan, I get some doubts in my mind about my skill levels. I question whether the job has become FUBARed merely due to me instead of some cosmic conspiracy to thwart what is right and fair. Of course this doesn't last long as its naturally someone/ something elses fault. Still this time I know its not me - any idiot can slaver on gloop and if the marmalade colour is still there afterwards its down to the product!
(https://s9.postimg.cc/vwq1wo2pr/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/v779kb263/)
Depending how bad the amount of rust is, someone recommended leaving for 24 hrs but slapping the stuff on and wrapping cling film over it to stop it drying out, every now and again giving it a massage through the cling film to stop it setting.
Yes I remember reading that advice too - from Frogger or Arch Bishop I think. I expect to have to give it a second dose (although I would be so pleased if I didn't need to to). The second and and final (?) would go on overnight and thats when I will wrap it up.
Three hours or so to go until I get my first look. Early confidence (for no real reason)is beginning to wane...
Quote from: MR TWO on May 22, 2018, 13:23
Well its on the two corners that have seen off the other products. This stuff has the texture of soft lard which for younger people is similar to I can' believe it not butter than has been out of the fridge for some time.
The instructions suggest keeping it out of the sun so I've put the wheels back in place the give shade. The transformation from orange to silver is estimated to require one to six hours. I'm hopeful!
Sometimes with car repairs, when its not going exactly (or at all) to plan, I get some doubts in my mind about my skill levels. I question whether the job has become FUBARed merely due to me instead of some cosmic conspiracy to thwart what is right and fair. Of course this doesn't last long as its naturally someone/ something elses fault. Still this time I know its not me - any idiot can slaver on gloop and if the marmalade colour is still there afterwards its down to the product!
(https://s9.postimg.cc/vwq1wo2pr/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/v779kb263/)
Forgive me asking, what condition is that last inch of hard brake line in? Has it got the gloop or copperslip on?
Hi Bossworld,
Ask anything you like and make any suggestions you think are good too.
Do you mean this bit?
(https://s9.postimg.cc/mzww9xqbz/bl2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6owsdmdu3/)
Solid condition, will be better with a coat of paint.
Well I just had a look at both front and back after 6 hours.
(https://s9.postimg.cc/n4e56lvrj/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6gmn440zv/)
The surface of all the rusty metal is now coated with a hard very dark brown/ black layer. I used a file on it and broke through to mostly shiney steel.I've just whacked another lot on the worst affected areas and will give it a drill powered wire brushing tomorrow morning. Maybe it doesn't need it, but just to be on the safe side.
I see aerosols of zinc primer & Hammerite paint in my future. Finally.
This product cost £17.89 delivered for 1 Kg which will be enough (with a little spare methinks) to complete the whole job.
Whistling a happy tune!
Quote from: MR TWO on May 22, 2018, 16:15
Hi Bossworld,
Ask anything you like and make any suggestions you think are good too.
Do you mean this bit?
(https://s9.postimg.cc/mzww9xqbz/bl2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/6owsdmdu3/)
Solid condition, will be better with a coat of paint.
Yep that bit about an inch or so long where it meets the union after the plastic coating ends. I couldn't work out if it looked a bit bumpy or not from the pic. I've just renewed both of my fronts because of pitting on the pipe, had originally coated it with hammerite after failing an MOT but had a nagging doubt in my mind.
Cut into the pipe afterwards and it was still solid but it's one area that mot testers love to be picky about.
Quote from: Bossworld on May 22, 2018, 21:17
Cut into the pipe afterwards and it was still solid but it's one area that mot testers love to be picky about.
Thats good to know they are finicky about that end brake pipe - thanks. I will clean up the metal and put some clear over it so the testers will be happy and not a PITA.
Glad the Bilt Hamber is working out for you. Never been disappointed with their stuff!
Quote from: The Arch Bishop on May 22, 2018, 23:07
Glad the Bilt Hamber is working out for you. Never been disappointed with their stuff!
The stuff does exactly what is says on the tin; "Removes rust".
The only critisim I have is that the jar is tall and my paint brush is short! First world world problems eh!
I am going to send the pics of the results to Fertan, Halfords and Loctite, with a polite suggestion that they replicate the results with their products in the future, or stop making blatently untrue claims.
Bilt Hamber for President!
Moving on, the first two corners have have two doses of Hamber elixir, pressure washed off, and a wire brushing courtesy of the drill attachment. Thick primer paint is drying in the sunshine.
The other two corners have thick coatings of rust remover and should be ready for the second just after 12noon (early start).
Really starting to get somewhere and the feeling is good.
Good news :)
Laughed at the sending pics to halfords, stick it too em.
So in relation to the other items they had a score out of 10, what does the bilt hamber score ?
Quote from: wotugonado on May 23, 2018, 11:45
Good news :)
So in relation to the other items they had a score out of 10, what does the bilt hamber score ?
Since the first two corners were previously treated by the other products, I figured its possible that they did do more than seemed obvious - yeah very unlikely but still. So final scores to come later today. Though I have put in a call to Sweden and lets just say I think if Dylan deserved an award, then, well anything is possible!
Hey remember that the Halfords stuff was a good cleaner. Loctite could have done something? Fertan was a plastic type glue covering and possibly works if no air ever gets to the metal again.
Definitely on the home stretch now. The passenger side is all done and painted. The drivers side is still swathed in its second coat as I didn't want to start cleaning it all up and painting at 6.30pm.
The drivers side is noticably less corroded - both front and back. Possibly because all the road crap that sits in the gutters? I could have skipped the second coat but since I've come this far I might as well do it 100%.
Getting stuck into things for a project (as opposed to having to 'cause the damn thing won't start) has given me a bit of a boost of enthusiasm and reminded me quite how much i enjoy owning this car. I haven't done much to it for the last year as I haven't needed to and my bike has been a distraction. Its time I did a few other little jobs and maybe a couple of new "mods"... And certainly redo the red calipers!
All good things come to an end
(https://s9.postimg.cc/n0t3lvqa7/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/d3i2stiob/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/ry6o6pplr/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4wq30ypy3/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/pguwzhfzz/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ho497ia0r/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/477aop4v3/image.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ptmb5q3ff/)
I still have the rest of the floor to paint, but that can be another day...
Bilt Hamber score 8.5/10
Looks tons better, fair play for persevering.
Wish I'd seen this earlier in the week ::) I got, rust, suspension, hammerite kurest, wire brushes, wire drill attachment, head phones, girlfriend on coffee duty and a borrowed set if ramps all set up for the bank holiday weekend but no Bilt Hamber :'(
Quote from: Garfy on May 24, 2018, 20:57
Wish I'd seen this earlier in the week ::) I got, rust, suspension, hammerite kurest, wire brushes, wire drill attachment, head phones, girlfriend on coffee duty and a borrowed set if ramps all set up for the bank holiday weekend but no Bilt Hamber :'(
If you order Bilt H tonight from Opie (i did via eBay) you might get it by Sat... Otherwise call them, there might be a stockist near you? Goodluck!
Quote from: Garfy on May 24, 2018, 20:57
Wish I'd seen this earlier in the week ::) I got, rust, suspension, hammerite kurest, wire brushes, wire drill attachment, head phones, girlfriend on coffee duty and a borrowed set if ramps all set up for the bank holiday weekend but no Bilt Hamber :'(
Add safety glasses to this list. I kept forgetting to put them on and the amount of rust that goes in your eyes is no joke!
Goo is on order, with me next weekend. Got my goggles so this weekend will be removing as much rust as I can by hand ;D will start a new thread with before piccies once I'm under ;)
Just a thought: since not all of us have a car lift at home and even a trolley jack will struggle on my gravel, plus I wouldn't work under one without axle stands, which are probably going to sink/wobble on the gravel... would little drive-on ramps (e.g. THESE (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cougar-Maintenance-Lifting-Equipment-COUGA/dp/B00426SIUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527864689&sr=8-1&keywords=garage+ramp)) work for getting the back of the car up so I can wire brush it properly? Or do I have to take the wheels off?
I'm doing OK at the moment with these :D
Not a lot of room and I do have a Halfords cheapo lie on thingy with wheels.
I have got to the majority of it, I hope
Quote from: BahnStormer on June 1, 2018, 15:57
Just a thought: since not all of us have a car lift at home and even a trolley jack will struggle on my gravel, plus I wouldn't work under one without axle stands, which are probably going to sink/wobble on the gravel... would little drive-on ramps (e.g. THESE (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cougar-Maintenance-Lifting-Equipment-COUGA/dp/B00426SIUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527864689&sr=8-1&keywords=garage+ramp)) work for getting the back of the car up so I can wire brush it properly? Or do I have to take the wheels off?
To lift the car on gravel the best work around I know is to put a thick plank of wood beneath the jack, or if you have flags in your garden theres a good chance they are not cemented down and you can pry one up. They go back into place easily enough.
You definitely need to remove the wheels as there is no access space to clean up the grot and rust around the hubs/ suspension when they are in place.
I personally feel I cant have enough jacks, axle stands etc under the car if I am under there too!
Even using those ramps I would have at least 2 axle stands as well "just in case".
Quote from: MR TWO on June 1, 2018, 19:41
Quote from: BahnStormer on June 1, 2018, 15:57
Just a thought: since not all of us have a car lift at home and even a trolley jack will struggle on my gravel, plus I wouldn't work under one without axle stands, which are probably going to sink/wobble on the gravel... would little drive-on ramps (e.g. THESE (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Cougar-Maintenance-Lifting-Equipment-COUGA/dp/B00426SIUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527864689&sr=8-1&keywords=garage+ramp)) work for getting the back of the car up so I can wire brush it properly? Or do I have to take the wheels off?
To lift the car on gravel the best work around I know is to put a thick plank of wood beneath the jack, or if you have flags in your garden theres a good chance they are not cemented down and you can pry one up. They go back into place easily enough.
You definitely need to remove the wheels as there is no access space to clean up the grot and rust around the hubs/ suspension when they are in place.
I'd be wary of using concrete flags unless you know they're steel reinforced, crack,crumble and your stand is unsupported. Stick with timber, even if it stress cracks it'll still be under the stand.
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Resurrecting this after many years to update that the combo of:
Angle grinder knotted wire brush + combiprimer + combicolor has lasted well.
Since the pics on Page 1 it's been driven for 5 years in all weathers, SORN for a year on grass, and just now I am starting to look underneath and find it flaking off a couple of the arms and considering touching up next year. The subframe is still well protected, and arches are great.
As such I've just done the same on the front, so should be good til 2030!