Now that my car is running nicely, I actually have some motivation to get everything else fixed up, so I'm trying to be a grown up and learn things for myself instead of waiting for Patrick to sort it. I reckon there's going to be a few noddy questions from me.
Anyway, I need new brakes, I've been looking at yellow stuff brake pads, but I don't know if they are worth the additional cost. I do tootle a bit in my car to and from work, but it also gets 'driven' around the back roads, I don't do track days. I have the turbo on there, so it gets to 60 rather quickly. Im quite happy to pay the price for yellow stuff, but don't want to do it if there is little difference to OEM. Any help would be massively appreciated
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I've got Brembo pads on the front of mine which I'm very happy with for A roads and the occasional Beehive run.
Got Brembo pads all round on the Mini too.
Had yellowstuff on the rear when I first got the car and got ditched along the way in attempts to fix the handbrake. Currently running Pagid on the back as I was broke at the time and didn't have the extra fiver for the Brembo pads lol
Quote from: Bossworld on June 14, 2018, 20:48
I've got Brembo pads on the front of mine which I'm very happy with for A roads and the occasional Beehive run.
Got Brembo pads all round on the Mini too.
Had yellowstuff on the rear when I first got the car and got ditched along the way in attempts to fix the handbrake. Currently running Pagid on the back as I was broke at the time and didn't have the extra fiver for the Brembo pads lol
Can you notice any difference between the cheaper and more expensive ones?
I miss doing the beehive challenge, stupid 40 mph limit
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Not fitted the yellowstuff ones yet but I now have a full set of YS and standard style discs to go on at some stage.
That was about £50 for 4 discs and £120 for the pads. At that price I am happy to try out the YS as they have a big following and I wont know until I try them if I notice any difference.
Given that Jack is now running properly then thats got to be a good time to try to get the brakes as good as possible?
Quote from: Topdownman on June 14, 2018, 21:08
Not fitted the yellowstuff ones yet but I now have a full set of YS and standard style discs to go on at some stage.
That was about £50 for 4 discs and £120 for the pads. At that price I am happy to try out the YS as they have a big following and I wont know until I try them if I notice any difference.
Given that Jack is now running properly then thats got to be a good time to try to get the brakes as good as possible?
Well that was my thinking too, because I've never bought my own stuff im a bit unsure :)
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Quote from: HereComesTheWife on June 14, 2018, 20:56
Quote from: Bossworld on June 14, 2018, 20:48
I've got Brembo pads on the front of mine which I'm very happy with for A roads and the occasional Beehive run.
Got Brembo pads all round on the Mini too.
Had yellowstuff on the rear when I first got the car and got ditched along the way in attempts to fix the handbrake. Currently running Pagid on the back as I was broke at the time and didn't have the extra fiver for the Brembo pads lol
Can you notice any difference between the cheaper and more expensive ones?
I miss doing the beehive challenge, stupid 40 mph limit
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Once warmed up if I stamped on the pedal I'd be face up to the windscreen. I've only done about 400 miles since the change so haven't fully abused them yet but they've got a nice bite and did me well on a 50 mile run out to the coastal route > Morpeth > A192 route home last Sunday.
Personally given the car weighs so little, I'm not sure how much difference there'll be between decent brands so I'll leave that to those who have tracked their cars.
The pads I took off the front still had plenty of meat on them but looked like they'd been on years. Suppose like anything car related, a freshen up will feel better.
Re: Beehive - Aside from the posted limit, it's more a case of running into people tootling along at 25mph on a weekend! :protest:
Quote from: Bossworld on June 14, 2018, 21:23
Quote from: HereComesTheWife on June 14, 2018, 20:56
Quote from: Bossworld on June 14, 2018, 20:48
I've got Brembo pads on the front of mine which I'm very happy with for A roads and the occasional Beehive run.
Got Brembo pads all round on the Mini too.
Had yellowstuff on the rear when I first got the car and got ditched along the way in attempts to fix the handbrake. Currently running Pagid on the back as I was broke at the time and didn't have the extra fiver for the Brembo pads lol
Can you notice any difference between the cheaper and more expensive ones?
I miss doing the beehive challenge, stupid 40 mph limit
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Once warmed up if I stamped on the pedal I'd be face up to the windscreen. I've only done about 400 miles since the change so haven't fully abused them yet but they've got a nice bite and did me well on a 50 mile run out to the coastal route > Morpeth > A192 route home last Sunday.
Personally given the car weighs so little, I'm not sure how much difference there'll be between decent brands so I'll leave that to those who have tracked their cars.
The pads I took off the front still had plenty of meat on them but looked like they'd been on years. Suppose like anything car related, a freshen up will feel better.
Re: Beehive - Aside from the posted limit, it's more a case of running into people tootling along at 25mph on a weekend! :protest:
Nowt worse than the Driving Miss Daisy's on the beehive, and there's nowhere to overtake safely
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I've got pagid all round on mine- they're fine....I think the weak point in my whole setup is my tyres (Toyos).
Anyway- my point is that they're fine, BUT the cheaper you go (including Pagid) I think the more fettling you have to do in terms of fitment. So basically you've got to file them down do that they fit nicely and can move back and forth.
I'm assuming that if you spent more money on they likes of EBC or carbotech that they'd just slot right in and work nicely...
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Quote from: jvanzyl on June 14, 2018, 22:23
I've got pagid all round on mine- they're fine....I think the weak point in my whole setup is my tyres (Toyos).
Anyway- my point is that they're fine, BUT the cheaper you go (including Pagid) I think the more fettling you have to do in terms of fitment. So basically you've got to file them down do that they fit nicely and can move back and forth.
I'm assuming that if you spent more money on they likes of EBC or carbotech that they'd just slot right in and work nicely...
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Err, metinks you should have filed down/cleaned up your calipers! haha.
NEver had any issues with any pads slotting in. God knows I've been through a fair few.
I did! Maybe I just got a naf batch of pads....
Quote from: shnazzle on June 14, 2018, 22:27
Quote from: jvanzyl on June 14, 2018, 22:23
I've got pagid all round on mine- they're fine....I think the weak point in my whole setup is my tyres (Toyos).
Anyway- my point is that they're fine, BUT the cheaper you go (including Pagid) I think the more fettling you have to do in terms of fitment. So basically you've got to file them down do that they fit nicely and can move back and forth.
I'm assuming that if you spent more money on they likes of EBC or carbotech that they'd just slot right in and work nicely...
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Err, metinks you should have filed down/cleaned up your calipers! haha.
NEver had any issues with any pads slotting in. God knows I've been through a fair few.
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@jvanzyl (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22834) not the first person I've heard moaning about pad fitment.
@HereComesTheWife (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=23368) try a cheap set of pads and see how you get on. Especially as you've had some brake issues. I used yellow stuff on my turbo can be noisy and possibly like to get warmed up a bit. May have contributed to my handbrake woes but have no real evidence to support that theory. Stopped the car hard whenever you needed it too.
Quote from: 1979scotte on June 14, 2018, 22:37
@jvanzyl (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22834) not the first person I've heard moaning about pad fitment.
@HereComesTheWife (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=23368) try a cheap set of pads and see how you get on. Especially as you've had some brake issues. I used yellow stuff on my turbo can be noisy and possibly like to get warmed up a bit. May have contributed to my handbrake woes but have no real evidence to support that theory. Stopped the car hard whenever you needed it too.
Not a bad suggestion- rather get good working calipers and "ok" pads to start with...
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With Shnaz on this one.
I'm runnig Pagids all round and the only cleaning up to do was removing any crud or rust from the calipers. Pads untouched, slotted in just fine.
Pagid stock discs and pads. Stops just fine. No green yellow red stuff here.
Yes, you want the brakes to work if you need them to, but I like to use them as least as I can to maintain as much momentum as I can.
Quote from: 1979scotte on June 14, 2018, 22:37
@jvanzyl (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22834) not the first person I've heard moaning about pad fitment.
@HereComesTheWife (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=23368) try a cheap set of pads and see how you get on. Especially as you've had some brake issues. I used yellow stuff on my turbo can be noisy and possibly like to get warmed up a bit. May have contributed to my handbrake woes but have no real evidence to support that theory. Stopped the car hard whenever you needed it too.
I'm with Scotte (and most others by the sounds of it!) Just get a normal set of pads to try out. You've already got a new set on the rear - how are they?
I looked at getting yellowstuff on my Impreza many moons ago, but the tales of noise and not working well from cold (confirmed above!!) put me off for my daily driver.
I personally wouldnt use yellowstuff except on track! I'm sure others have different opinions!
Another +1 for the Brembo pads.
Previously, I had a set of Pagids (which worked OK I guess, but fitted terribly) and replaced them with some Ferodos which I thought "Well, they're branded, should be OK"
They were awful. @Carolyn (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=22891) helped me fit them and so I know they were fitted correctly (albeit they didn't fit very nicely).
They were causing problems (failed MOT) so we took them out to have a look at. One of them was worn on one side and the other had actually split in half!
So I went to ECP and for an extra couple of quid, bought the brembo pads. They fit much better.
What I will say about them is that whilst they'll stop you on a tuppence, they do wear down quickly.
So the consensus is that the yellow stuff pads aren't really worth it for me. I'm quite happy with the pagid ones I have on the rear, so I'll probably just go for something similar. Thank you for your help everyone
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Looking like brembos are the winner for me :)
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Quote from: tricky1138 on June 15, 2018, 08:52
I looked at getting yellowstuff on my Impreza many moons ago, but the tales of noise and not working well from cold (confirmed above!!) put me off for my daily driver.
I personally wouldnt use yellowstuff except on track! I'm sure others have different opinions!
I use Yellowstuff all round, on road and track. Not ever heard a squeak from them, road or track. Bite from cold is 100% too - zero issues for me. They are fit and forget.
Cannot praise them highly enough for the price.
Quote from: Alex Knight on June 15, 2018, 12:24
Quote from: tricky1138 on June 15, 2018, 08:52
I looked at getting yellowstuff on my Impreza many moons ago, but the tales of noise and not working well from cold (confirmed above!!) put me off for my daily driver.
I personally wouldnt use yellowstuff except on track! I'm sure others have different opinions!
I use Yellowstuff all round, on road and track. Not ever heard a squeak from them, road or track. Bite from cold is 100% too - zero issues for me. They are fit and forget.
Cannot praise them highly enough for the price.
See now why you gone and done that? A decision was made and then you come in swaying the mass concensus. Damn you Mr Knight.
Loving your work Alex!
I guess you have to try the YS for yourself to get your opinion!
I have been happy with my standard EBC pads and plain discs but am going to try YS for myself.
Its probably more important that the calipers are regularly cleaned and working properly than the effect of a given pad for road use?
I would say that the stock Toyota pads are pretty good. I ran them on my turbo setup and on road, they only ever concerned me once, coming down the Isle of Man mountain circuit "the wrong way" towards Ramsey, where they started to grumble and fade, but the speeds where way beyond normal road use. Other than that, they had very good feel and progression and worked well from cold.
I'm currently running Yellowstuff in the 2GR setup. They definitely work beyond what stock pads can do, but they are not without drawbacks. Although they will stop you well from cold, the pedal feel is quite wooden until you get some heat into them. Also, they don't seem to grumble before fade sets in, you get a quite subtle warning that they are on the way to overheating, but you will have to be pushing very hard indeed to get to that stage!
I would be happy with stock pads at turbo power levels. I'm going carbotech next time out, Yellowstuff are ok for road use, but I'm looking for more heat resistance and better progression. They ain't cheap mind!
All in, I would say that most decent quality pads should be ok, like tyres, they are personal taste. Definitely avoid budget pads though, they can be really grabby and difficult to modulate.
Just to throw a spanner in the works, I've got Yellow Stuff pads and Mtec grooved and dimpled discs.
I don't find them that noisy, stopping from cold seems fine as is the hand brake operation. Just done a Hill climb school, did 17 runs up the hill with 3 hard braking points on each run and the brakes behaved brilliantly.
Thanks for your help everyone, I think I'm going to go for the brembos and see how I come on, I can always change them next time if they aren't agreeing with me
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Quote from: HereComesTheWife on June 18, 2018, 18:49
Thanks for your help everyone, I think I'm going to go for the brembos and see how I come on, I can always change them next time if they aren't agreeing with me
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Are you sure? Yellow stuff = superior braking, no noise. work perfectly when cold, plus they're fit and forget. Modded cars have enough foibles which we have to deal with. I know after four years of daily driving -spiritedly on occassion- that my brakes are made of the right stuff.
Quote from: MR TWO on June 18, 2018, 20:08
Quote from: HereComesTheWife on June 18, 2018, 18:49
Thanks for your help everyone, I think I'm going to go for the brembos and see how I come on, I can always change them next time if they aren't agreeing with me
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Are you sure? Yellow stuff = superior braking, no noise. work perfectly when cold, plus they're fit and forget. Modded cars have enough foibles which we have to deal with. I know after four years of daily driving -spiritedly on occassion- that my brakes are made of the right stuff.
No I wasn't sure, and now I'm less sure :)
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What is the price difference? The YS were £120 for both ends.
If its not much then maybe worth trying YS now rather than later as pads could theoretically last years. Its the same argument as just going for AD08Rs rather than trying a set of toyos first. You have years of not quite the best....
As you are finally in a position to drive Jack quickly with confidence for the first time it is the perfect time to have the best brakes you have ever had and there will be no regrets as you went for the best rated pads for road use.
Someone is talking proper sense here....I have "years" of flipping Toyos to work through...
Quote from: Topdownman on June 18, 2018, 20:29
What is the price difference? The YS were £120 for both ends.
If its not much then maybe worth trying YS now rather than later as pads could theoretically last years. Its the same argument as just going for AD08Rs rather than trying a set of toyos first. You have years of not quite the best....
As you are finally in a position to drive Jack quickly with confidence for the first time it is the perfect time to have the best brakes you have ever had and there will be no regrets as you went for the best rated pads for road use.
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Brembos front and rear for £50 all in at ECP mid month 'sale'.
Probably closer to £40 when they do the end of month 'sale'.
:-\
I'm running Brembo pads all round at the moment and they're decent...I'd be interesting in what discs people recommend though - I'm on what looks like something similar to stock but wanted an upgrade. Looked at mtec but still undecided
I saw a comment by one individual on another forum I am on this week who said that brembo dont make their own pads, they are made for them by someone else so the implication was they were the same pad as a cheaper brand. No evidence was offered and I have no idea if this was true but just thought I would mention it.
I have got on alright with my cheap EBC pads and as they make the yellowstuff pads, they should be a good cheaper choice?
With regard to discs, "engineering explained" did a youtube video of stock vs slotted vs drilled rotors which is worth a watch if you are trying to decide if you want different rotors.
Has anybody used the black diamond predator pads? Look good value
Or
The stop tech super streets as an alternative to yellowstuff?
How about MTEC grooved and dimpled discs + YellowStuf pads. It's discs and pads, front and rear @ £330 or is that over-priced?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273137273142
I'm not sure as I was looking at Black Diamond previously and that was ~£500, ~£220 just for the G6 rear discs (still OEM sizes)!
Actually looks like they're cheaper straight from MTEC... £275, incl delivery, copper grease and a bottle of 5.1 fluid....
I found a screen grab of the Black Diamond prices: last year, they were £486 just for the discs and pads with delivery, no fluid/grease...
@Topdownman (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18717) where are you getting YS for £120? I've just noticed that mine are £140 in that basket...
The fronts are here;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-YELLOWSTUFF-BRAKE-PADS-FRONT-DP41295R-FAST-STREET-TRACK-RACE/312103572936?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I cant see any rears on ebay for that price at the moment but they were that a few weeks ago and maybe will be again?
You could always ring jaysperformance and say you want both ends for £59.22 each and buy over the phone rather than through ebay? Use a credit card and you still have protection.
These things are always worth a try, they can only say no!
Quote from: Topdownman on July 22, 2018, 18:18
The fronts are here;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-YELLOWSTUFF-BRAKE-PADS-FRONT-DP41295R-FAST-STREET-TRACK-RACE/312103572936?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I cant see any rears on ebay for that price at the moment but they were that a few weeks ago and maybe will be again?
You could always ring jaysperformance and say you want both ends for £59.22 each and buy over the phone rather than through ebay? Use a credit card and you still have protection.
These things are always worth a try, they can only say no!
I can't seem to get the eBay Catcha code to work today, so can't send any messages to eBay sellers today.
Are the rears "DP4602R" or "DP41107R"??? MTECBrakes seem to say "DP4602R", but I'm pretty sure that's the part number for the Mk1 MR2....
Pretty certain the fronts are "DP41295R".
I would consider upgraded pads for the future, & Yellowstuff would be the likeliest from what I've read previously. But I would probably only fit to the front. A much heavier car would probably be better all-round, but it's a light car, the rears aren't going to get hot in road use.
Opinions?
On the road any old pads are fine in the MR2 I think, you've got lots of corner grip relative to the power so you should be able to carry speed more than other cars.
From another thread, where we're discussing Caliper refurbs / replacements....
Quote from: m1tch on July 24, 2018, 07:30
I got mine from here (both rears) as I figure they would probably fail at the MOT - worth noting that you don't need to send back your old calipers like other places which means you will also have another set you can refurbish as a spare if needed:
https://brakeparts.co.uk/shop/Toyota/MR2/00-/MR2%20Sports%20Zzw30%201.8%20Roadster/Rear%20-%20Brake%20Calipers%20and%20Wheel%20Cylinders
Has anybody heard of Budweg/Akebono before? These seem to be the same price to buy outright, new compared to refurbished OEM ones "on exchange".
There is lots of chat about Budweg callipers going back many years on loads of forums.
Consensus seems to be they started off reconditioning original callipers, then started to get new ones made when they couldn't get enough originals. The new ones are probably made in China so (as usual) there are lots of comments about how crap they must be (mainly on BMW sites!), but they seem to sell thousands a week and I can't find anyone who's actually fitted them complaining about them, (albeit with pretty minimal research on my part). And they come with a 2 year warranty whereas Brembo etc only seem to give 1 year.
Make of all that what you will.
Quote from: lamcote on July 26, 2018, 11:18
There is lots of chat about Budweg callipers going back many years on loads of forums.
Consensus seems to be they started off reconditioning original callipers, then started to get new ones made when they couldn't get enough originals. The new ones are probably made in China so (as usual) there are lots of comments about how crap they must be (mainly on BMW sites!), but they seem to sell thousands a week and I can't find anyone who's actually fitted them complaining about them, (albeit with pretty minimal research on my part). And they come with a 2 year warranty whereas Brembo etc only seem to give 1 year.
Make of all that what you will.
I have a pair fitted and they passed the MOT fine - will see how they perform I guess, will look to recondition the original ones.
Quote from: BahnStormer on July 23, 2018, 12:02
Quote from: Topdownman on July 22, 2018, 18:18
The fronts are here;
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-YELLOWSTUFF-BRAKE-PADS-FRONT-DP41295R-FAST-STREET-TRACK-RACE/312103572936?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
I cant see any rears on ebay for that price at the moment but they were that a few weeks ago and maybe will be again?
You could always ring jaysperformance and say you want both ends for £59.22 each and buy over the phone rather than through ebay? Use a credit card and you still have protection.
These things are always worth a try, they can only say no!
I can't seem to get the eBay Catcha code to work today, so can't send any messages to eBay sellers today.
Are the rears "DP4602R" or "DP41107R"??? MTECBrakes seem to say "DP4602R", but I'm pretty sure that's the part number for the Mk1 MR2....
Pretty certain the fronts are "DP41295R".
These are what I have, not on the car yet so could be wrong!!
(https://i.imgur.com/kG0DMsW.jpg)
Just to add a little. Your rear pads are currently oem replacement pagids.
I found the yellow stuff to be very good pads lets say 10% better at braking and had less fade on track, that being said they got alot of heavy use a couple track day and didnt last long at all. Could try red stuffs also.
Rears are cheap again by the look of it?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-Yellowstuff-Uprated-Rear-Brakes-Pads-DP41295R-/301447745778?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
(Ooops, just realised those are the fronts!).
Quote from: Topdownman on July 31, 2018, 17:59
Rears are cheap again by the look of it?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-Yellowstuff-Uprated-Rear-Brakes-Pads-DP41295R-/301447745778?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
(Ooops, just realised those are the fronts!).
Mine are on the car now.... time to go and bed them in :)
Quote from: BahnStormer on July 31, 2018, 18:35
Quote from: Topdownman on July 31, 2018, 17:59
Rears are cheap again by the look of it?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-Yellowstuff-Uprated-Rear-Brakes-Pads-DP41295R-/301447745778?_trksid=p2385738.m4383.l4275.c10
(Ooops, just realised those are the fronts!).
Mine are on the car now.... time to go and bed them in :)
Looking forward to hearing your thoughts.
They're here..... (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180821/b0b860a2d1b56d2c4cd53f85af594405.jpg)
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Well done!
I look forward to seeing Patricks pic of you fitting them.
Quote from: Topdownman on August 21, 2018, 11:48
Well done!
I look forward to seeing Patricks pic of you fitting them.
Harsh... But fair![emoji23]
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Quote from: Topdownman on August 21, 2018, 11:48
Well done!
I look forward to seeing Patricks pic of you fitting them.
Ha ha, that's tomorrow's job. Can't wait to get them on now
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Front all sorted.
Had a few issues with the nearside brake line nut. Nothing a mole grip couldn't fix.
But that took ages. And then we experienced what everybody says about the kink in the line at the caliper end. We're not entirely happy but as long as the line slides through the clip it should be fine.
Didn't need much cleaning. Everything slid in perfectly.
Although the brake discs were absolutely welded to the hub.
This is how a 1hr job turns into 4.
Rears tomorrow, which should be easier as it's just been off. And then full fluid replacement. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/bffb37df38b0c1b0ad82ba82663557b8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/c430907285b79cb6a6c563749a08e296.jpg)
Quote from: shnazzle on August 22, 2018, 13:09
Front all sorted.
Had a few issues with the nearside brake line nut. Nothing a mole grip couldn't fix.
But that took ages. And then we experienced what everybody says about the kink in the line at the caliper end. We're not entirely happy but as long as the line slides through the clip it should be fine.
Didn't need much cleaning. Everything slid in perfectly.
Although the brake discs were absolutely welded to the hub.
This is how a 1hr job turns into 4.
Rears tomorrow, which should be easier as it's just been off. And then full fluid replacement. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/bffb37df38b0c1b0ad82ba82663557b8.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/c430907285b79cb6a6c563749a08e296.jpg)
Saucy...
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The rebuffer strikes again.
Looks like the pond lining came in handy.
Looking forward to hearing how they feel.
Doing MY wife's brakes only to discover I'm without my red grease... Or other brake related tools...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/5e0bf75389adf1e44df90f13d5edbb4b.jpg)
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Quote from: shnazzle on August 22, 2018, 13:09
This is how a 1hr job turns into 4.
Got noises now from nsf, may have to try doing this job for first time soonish - judging by this, 4hours for you guys might end up being 4 hours per corner for me... Any tips welcome :)
Do they supply bedding-in instructions with them? Interested to get your opinion of them.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on August 22, 2018, 21:05
Do they supply bedding-in instructions with them? Interested to get your opinion of them.
Not really, there was just a leaflet saying 'go steady for a couple of days' or words to that effect. I'll you know my thoughts, should get them finished tomorrow
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Quote from: jvanzyl on August 22, 2018, 14:41
Doing MY wife's brakes only to discover I'm without my red grease... Or other brake related tools...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/5e0bf75389adf1e44df90f13d5edbb4b.jpg)
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Don't I have all that in the MR2 support polo.
I could have some free time this weekend I am only working Saturday I think.
Quote from: 1979scotte on August 22, 2018, 22:03
Quote from: jvanzyl on August 22, 2018, 14:41
Doing MY wife's brakes only to discover I'm without my red grease... Or other brake related tools...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180822/5e0bf75389adf1e44df90f13d5edbb4b.jpg)
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Don't I have all that in the MR2 support polo.
I could have some free time this weekend I am only working Saturday I think.
Thanks man- turns out the car is only 3 years old so no need for the grease... I bought another generic set of brake piston tools a while ago so I used those... My wife is working the whole weekend so I'm only able to do car work in the evenings.. :-/
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Failed attempt day 2 on account of it absolutely pishing it down.
One corner sorted but brake line bolt wasn't playing ball. At all. So, no braided lines on the rear.
Got the disc on the other corner but then the heavens absolutely opened as if to say "oh, you want to continue in the rain do you? Have some of THIS!"
Stupid country.
Any tips on rounded brake line nuts? I've already resorted to big mole grips. No can do.
I would remove the offending hard line, make up a new one with new fittings and....
I have the flaring kit, of course, and brake line.
You could probably get one made up locally.
As you are using Mole grips to remove the brake line nuts I take it that they are already rounded off and they won't be going back on. I'm sure the offending nuts have been pre soaked with some penetrating fluid, I believe brake fluid is a good choice when working on that system to avoid contamination. A Stilson wrench, ( typically a Plumber's tool) is designed to tighten it's grip as pressure is applied and would likely help the situation. Also, have you tried to "tighten" the offender just a very little. That can help sometimes.
PS, Carolyn is very probably righter than I am!
Quote from: Joesson on August 23, 2018, 11:24
As you are using Mole grips to remove the brake line nuts I take it that they are already rounded off and they won't be going back on. I'm sure the offending nuts have been pre soaked with some penetrating fluid, I believe brake fluid is a good choice when working on that system to avoid contamination. A Stilson wrench, ( typically a Plumber's tool) is designed to tighten it's grip as pressure is applied and would likely help the situation. Also, have you tried to "tighten" the offender just a very little. That can help sometimes.
No there's still a fair bit of grip with a normal 10mm spanner but there's too much play for my likings, so to prevent rounding, I used the mole grips... As odd as that sounds... So I can still put it back if it loosens. Hey ho, job for next time.
I need to do a front brake line on my car. I'll do Helen up a rear at the same time.
I tried tightening. Also tried a bit of heat. Plenty of plus gas. No go
Quote from: shnazzle on August 23, 2018, 11:40
Quote from: Joesson on August 23, 2018, 11:24
As you are using Mole grips to remove the brake line nuts I take it that they are already rounded off and they won't be going back on. I'm sure the offending nuts have been pre soaked with some penetrating fluid, I believe brake fluid is a good choice when working on that system to avoid contamination. A Stilson wrench, ( typically a Plumber's tool) is designed to tighten it's grip as pressure is applied and would likely help the situation. Also, have you tried to "tighten" the offender just a very little. That can help sometimes.
No there's still a fair bit of grip with a normal 10mm spanner but there's too much play for my likings, so to prevent rounding, I used the mole grips... As odd as that sounds... So I can still put it back if it loosens. Hey ho, job for next time.
I need to do a front brake line on my car. I'll do Helen up a rear at the same time.
I tried tightening. Also tried a bit of heat. Plenty of plus gas. No go
Oh dear, oh deary, deary me... I suggest an edit...
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on August 23, 2018, 11:59
Quote from: shnazzle on August 23, 2018, 11:40
Quote from: Joesson on August 23, 2018, 11:24
As you are using Mole grips to remove the brake line nuts I take it that they are already rounded off and they won't be going back on. I'm sure the offending nuts have been pre soaked with some penetrating fluid, I believe brake fluid is a good choice when working on that system to avoid contamination. A Stilson wrench, ( typically a Plumber's tool) is designed to tighten it's grip as pressure is applied and would likely help the situation. Also, have you tried to "tighten" the offender just a very little. That can help sometimes.
No there's still a fair bit of grip with a normal 10mm spanner but there's too much play for my likings, so to prevent rounding, I used the mole grips... As odd as that sounds... So I can still put it back if it loosens. Hey ho, job for next time.
I need to do a front brake line on my car. I'll do Helen up a rear at the same time.
I tried tightening. Also tried a bit of heat. Plenty of plus gas. No go
Oh dear, oh deary, deary me... I suggest an edit...
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Nah just going to leave that one in your head
Quote from: Call the midlife! on August 23, 2018, 11:59
Quote from: shnazzle on August 23, 2018, 11:40
Quote from: Joesson on August 23, 2018, 11:24
As you are using Mole grips to remove the brake line nuts I take it that they are already rounded off and they won't be going back on. I'm sure the offending nuts have been pre soaked with some penetrating fluid, I believe brake fluid is a good choice when working on that system to avoid contamination. A Stilson wrench, ( typically a Plumber's tool) is designed to tighten it's grip as pressure is applied and would likely help the situation. Also, have you tried to "tighten" the offender just a very little. That can help sometimes.
No there's still a fair bit of grip with a normal 10mm spanner but there's too much play for my likings, so to prevent rounding, I used the mole grips... As odd as that sounds... So I can still put it back if it loosens. Hey ho, job for next time.
I need to do a front brake line on my car. I'll do Helen up a rear at the same time.
I tried tightening. Also tried a bit of heat. Plenty of plus gas. No go
Oh dear, oh deary, deary me... I suggest an edit...
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He'll do what?? [emoji33][emoji33]
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Another day, another few lessons learned and mysteries gained.
1) I always struggled with the handbrake cable being in the way when trying to tilt the caliper. Getting the damn clip out and the retaining pin often leads to much swearing. Much easier is to remove the bracket bolt. Which is stupid bevause I remember making that discovery back when I had my pre-fl....
2) spigot rings can suddenly not fit on the hub anymore. Yeah... No clue. Forced it back on. Mystery
3) when bleeding brakes, size of the tube matters. For some reason I binned my bleeding tube so I used the coolant bleeding tube which is bigger. All good but the problem is, the fluid doesn't build in the tube. So you can't inspect for bubbles easily. Who knew! Switched to a thinner tube and all was good
Yellow stuff: much nicer feel to the braking than the mtecs,pagids or anything else I've tried.
very progressive. Less "bitey". But definitely make the car stop quick!
bedding in at the minute so let's see what it's like after a few drives
Quote from: shnazzle on August 23, 2018, 19:20
Another day, another few lessons learned and mysteries gained.
1) I always struggled with the handbrake cable being in the way when trying to tilt the caliper. Getting the damn clip out and the retaining pin often leads to much swearing. Much easier is to remove the bracket bolt. Which is stupid bevause I remember making that discovery back when I had my pre-fl....
That's a very good idea. That bracket seems to have a second connection/pin securing it to the caliper, as well as the bolt. Does that need to be removed or does the bracket slide off that?
Interesting about the feel from the pads too, I'm tempted.
Cheers
Quote from: lamcote on August 23, 2018, 20:18
Quote from: shnazzle on August 23, 2018, 19:20
Another day, another few lessons learned and mysteries gained.
1) I always struggled with the handbrake cable being in the way when trying to tilt the caliper. Getting the damn clip out and the retaining pin often leads to much swearing. Much easier is to remove the bracket bolt. Which is stupid bevause I remember making that discovery back when I had my pre-fl....
That's a very good idea. That bracket seems to have a second connection/pin securing it to the caliper, as well as the bolt. Does that need to be removed or does the bracket slide off that?
Interesting about the feel from the pads too, I'm tempted.
Cheers
Nope just the 14mm bolt and plenty of room presents itself. It does take some effort to get it back mind. But still a lot less as effort.
First proper run on the yellowstuff today.
They're about 30-40% better than the mtec I would say.
You definitely pay more but you also get more, approximately 1:1 with what you pay over and above the mtec.
Brake dust... SO much brake dust.
So much.... If you like clean alloys, stay away.
A new one for me; squeal. Tried as I might with ceratec and shims, there is squeal. According to the EBC site this is normal and expected and says to leave it for 1000 miles before it being suspicious.
I didn't wait 1k so I stripped it all, re-lubed and re-fitted. Made no difference. But, it's definitely less than it was.
All in all, I'm jealous of Helen's brakes now. Took mine out yesterday and my fresh mtecs and braided lines felt rather mediocre. So, add that to my list of things to save up for.
I always liked my yellow stuff.
Agree about the dust and the squealing.
Do wonder if they don't help the MR2 handbrake issues.
Just checking Pat, you are using a flare spanner?
https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/teng-641011-flare-nut-wrench-10-x-11mm.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6eyExN6M3QIVxJTVCh3JkgEmEAQYBSABEgLb1PD_BwE
Quote from: tomaky on August 27, 2018, 08:45
Just checking Pat, you are using a flare spanner?
https://www.mytoolshed.co.uk/teng-641011-flare-nut-wrench-10-x-11mm.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6eyExN6M3QIVxJTVCh3JkgEmEAQYBSABEgLb1PD_BwE
No, I tried to find one but couldn't. I should have ordered one online.
having said that, I used one when we did mine and the mole grips came out there as well.
You will be surprised how effortless it is with one ha. id nearly rounded it with a open end. got the spanner and walah.
Quote from: shnazzle on August 26, 2018, 17:09A new one for me; squeal. Tried as I might with ceratec and shims, there is squeal. According to the EBC site this is normal and expected and says to leave it for 1000 miles before it being suspicious.
Have you bedded them in? I find with all track pads I've used, you need to give them a hard time regularly.
Quote from: james_ly on August 28, 2018, 09:16
Quote from: shnazzle on August 26, 2018, 17:09A new one for me; squeal. Tried as I might with ceratec and shims, there is squeal. According to the EBC site this is normal and expected and says to leave it for 1000 miles before it being suspicious.
Have you bedded them in? I find with all track pads I've used, you need to give them a hard time regularly.
Says not to for 200 miles. So, taking it decently easy.
Quote from: shnazzle on August 28, 2018, 09:20
Quote from: james_ly on August 28, 2018, 09:16
Quote from: shnazzle on August 26, 2018, 17:09A new one for me; squeal. Tried as I might with ceratec and shims, there is squeal. According to the EBC site this is normal and expected and says to leave it for 1000 miles before it being suspicious.
Have you bedded them in? I find with all track pads I've used, you need to give them a hard time regularly.
Says not to for 200 miles. So, taking it decently easy.
I set them slightly on fire the day I fitted them, they've been ace ever since.