Hi,
My MR2 just failed it's MOT, and I'm potentially looking at a £6-700 repair bill. The handbrake is below required efficiency, which I was expecting after an advisory last year, but they've also picked up on corrosion on the subframe which they need to remove the exhaust to get to (rear cross member, I assume).
I love the car, but to be honest I was thinking of selling anyway as I want something with a boot. It's a PFL with 100k on the clock, so I'd probably be lucky to get a grand for it with a fresh MOT, so I'm really not sure it's worth the cost of repair, but it runs great and there's not much else wrong with it.
I don't have the ability or inclination to do the repairs myself, do I have any options other than suck up the cost or sell it for peanuts as a non runner?
Quote from: lron on July 13, 2018, 13:27
Hi,
My MR2 just failed it's MOT, and I'm potentially looking at a £6-700 repair bill. The handbrake is below required efficiency, which I was expecting after an advisory last year, but they've also picked up on corrosion on the subframe which they need to remove the exhaust to get to (rear cross member, I assume).
I love the car, but to be honest I was thinking of selling anyway as I want something with a boot. It's a PFL with 100k on the clock, so I'd probably be lucky to get a grand for it with a fresh MOT, so I'm really not sure it's worth the cost of repair, but it runs great and there's not much else wrong with it.
I don't have the ability or inclination to do the repairs myself, do I have any options other than suck up the cost or sell it for peanuts as a non runner?
I can see how you quickly get to 6-700 when done by a garage using brand new kit.
Handbrake cables being the bigger job of the two, believe it or not. Changing the subframe for a 2nd hand which often go for as little as 100 for a good one, is no problem at all for anyone with a jack, axle stands and a few simple tools.
So, you can put it up for sale as a non-runner to a member who doesn't mind doing the work. It may be a great platform for the many many people doing 2zz swaps with some cheap repairs DIY.
It's only that expensive because of the labour.
Or, perhaps a member is willing to donate some time?
At the risk of over-complicating things... (sorry Shnazzle!).
Handbrake. May just need servicing and adjustment. (There are good guides in the 'how to' section).
It may be that one or both of the cables are past their best. That's a much bigger job (the fuel tank has to be partially powered)
I've seen garages charge £200 - £250 for the cable replacement. That is plus the cost of a pair of cables (£105 inc vat from our affiliate, TCB Performance Parts.)
Sub-frame: You'll be very fortunate to find one in decent nick for much less than £200 these days. Again check with our affiliate breakers. Sometimes they come off easily, sometimes the suspension arms cannot be separated from the sub-frame. In that case, you would need a sub-frame and a set of suspension arms.
The catalytic converter has to be dropped, but the rest of the exhaust can stay put. Re-installation will require £20 worth of new gaskets.
If it's not too bad, there's a possibility a local welder could repair it in situ.
So, it's all a bit of a move-able feast.
So to answer the vital question; There is one other option, and that is to get some assistance (as Shnazzle suggests) from a local member who has some skills and knowledge and get the situation objectively evaluated. This is where putting your location in your profile comes in handy!
And yes -fixed it's worth a little over a grand - but any replacement car will need a bit of spending on it (if it's an inexpensive one) And you have to ask - what is it worth to you? Most of own cars that owe us more than they are worth - hey- ho!!
Fairly sure the handbrake is the cables - I had to have the rear calipers replaced last year and adjustment was done at the time.
The mechanic estimated 3-400 plus VAT for that job, which does seem a fair bit higher than your suggestion? It's a trustworthy garage but maybe on the expensive side.
For the sub frame he's estimated welding at £150-175 but warned it could end up higher if the exhaust can't be removed cleanly.
I'm reluctant to have someone spend time helping me out of goodwill if I end up selling the car anyway.
So where are you based?
Im guessing south.
Prices are very on the heavy side.
Sadly it is not uncommon for handbrakes to have been adjusted. But, incorrectly.
Subframe can be replaced without dropping the cat. But needless to say, easier if it is.
Is the garage overcharging because they dont wont the job.
Find the how to on here then armed with that ask them precisely how they propose to adjust. Just a thought.
You need a knowledgeable second opinion.
Members are always happy to help.
Problem is you don't KNOW it's the cables. Not too hard to find out.
I'm in the south east - Maidstone. If there's any members nearby who are willing to help out, or recommend a garage, I'd really appreciate it.
Quote from: lron on July 13, 2018, 17:25
I'm in the south east - Maidstone. If there's any members nearby who are willing to help out, or recommend a garage, I'd really appreciate it.
Couls be wrong but isn't that near where Patrick (headcase) resides?
Scotte isn't far away.
PB winner too.
Ask them to retry the brake, but to fully depress the pedal before pulling up the lever.
It's supposed to make a difference that can get it past the mot.
Quote from: lron on July 13, 2018, 17:25
I'm in the south east - Maidstone. If there's any members nearby who are willing to help out, or recommend a garage, I'd really appreciate it.
Headcase is near Hastings.
About an hour from Maidstone.
Worth the trip IMHO.
You had new callipers fitted last year, did the garage comment about the condition of the cables at that point?
It does seem quite possible that it's just an adjustment issue - they are temperamental if not done properly.
That being the case, you might only be looking at around £150 to weld the subframe.
Quote from: Eddie on July 13, 2018, 21:03
Ask them to retry the brake, but to fully depress the pedal before pulling up the lever.
It's supposed to make a difference that can get it past the mot.
Oddly enough, this very thing came up the other day in another thread.
From the handbook
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=57007.msg772230#msg772230
Cables are about 25 quid each from euro. You only have to drop the tank enough to get your hand in enough to get to 2 bolts. It's an annoying job but not hard.
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I was in a very similar boat a few months back mate and ended up feeling like it was scrap time for the car given the mileage on it. Thankfully a few on here knocked some sense into me.
If you're planning on keeping the car it's probably worth putting the money in. As others have said, I've sunk far more than my purchase price getting it back to where it should be, but I figured so long as I keep the car four years or so, it'll have been worth the effort.
Please please please do some research on third party cables. I spent hours under my car constantly readjusting the calipers, greasing everything, even replacing calipers and pads. In the end, the cables I had fitted less than 12 months previously were obviously not sized properly for the car. Swapped for a different brand, and low and behold a fully working handbrake without any further caliper adjustment. Felt vindicated I'd been doing everything properly at least :)
Good luck whatever you decide to do
Had another chat with the mechanic today, asked him to try the foot brake thing which unfortunately didn't make much difference - passenger side cable is apparently moving freely but the driver's side isn't retracting properly when released, so it doesn't pull on the caliper enough when it's then re-engaged.
Doesnt pull on the caliper enough suggests that it is moving.
If you can get under or the car up. When you look closely at the operation of the lever on the back of the caliper.
There is very little range of motion. If the pads are not set to have an interference fit or there abouts, all the range of motion can be taken up in just moving the pad to tthe disc leaving nothing for actual application.
I appreciate you had calipers replaced last year. But a year later and a years worth of braking. IF (big IF) the self adjusting mech on the inside has seized the adjusting nut will not move along a threaded shaft and not take up the slack of the pad wear.
This is quite common.
Comparing one side to the other. Are the pads rubbing on the disc on the side thats works (interfernce fit) vs the side that doesnt.
As above definitely worth a trip to Hastings or at least speak to Headcase (Patrick).
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