Hey, I've been lurking for a month or so as I A: Waited for my old car to sell and B: Located a decent MK3 with all the kit I'm looking for!
I think I've narrowed my choice down to two, an '04 Dark Green with AC, Hard-top fitting kit (No HT), Black Leather Seats, 58k and looks in great nick, talking to the owner it seems its never wanted for anything thats been needed on it, also at roughly £3.5k it seems well priced!
I've also seen a nice looking 06 in Sable Grey, this one is around £1k dearer but its slightly lower mileage, 2 years newer and comes with a fitted hardtop along with Red Leather Seats, AC, etc and again aside from 1 Service its an entire Toyota History.
The bits I'm wondering about though - the Green one, the Leather Seats aren't original but were fitted which I'm fine with however upon browsing I see there are "Pre-Face Lift and Face-Lift LEather Seats" what's the difference?....
Also - the Green one comes "Hard-Top Ready" which to an extent suits me as I don't have anywhere to store a HT currently and I'm sure I'd like another couple of months of soft-top action before winter! (Would likely just put into a Storage Unit over the summer), what colour combo would work? Was thinking Black?....
On the Silver/Gray one it seems to have a good history, with a lot of bits replaced in the last 2 years due to age (Brakes, O2 sensors, Tyres), however there are a few age related cosmetic issues, Alloys (which I've no issue getting refurbed), a fairly significant scratching on the engine cover and marking to the rear bumper, what sort of costs would I potentially be looking at to rectify?
Heart says the Green one! Looks the business in British Racing Green and the guy selling seems very passionate about MR2's!
Head says the Sable Grey is newer, slightly lower mileage (8k or so), and comes already with a Hard-Top....
The green is probably the rarer, more desirable colour if you come to sell on, although Sable is a lovely colour too. You'll definitely struggle to get a green hard top so consider black as you say, which are also reasonably scarce, or just buy the best value at the time and get it sprayed/wrapped.
The Sable sounds strongly priced with your description of the blemishes etc but I've not looked for similar recently so it might be worth searching for a similar car to compare prices? (If you haven't already).
Re the seats there are different variations across the years and special editions but the main difference between pre and fl is the hole in the headrest which some say makes them draughty behind your head.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
For me Hardtops are a nuisance and I always end up selling them.
You should be able to get £500 for a hardtop and full fitting kit.
As said above the FL green is rare and much sort after.
Very late 06 cars do come with all the revisions to engine and chassis which is something to bare in mind.
I think I would go with the green and sell the fitting kit on to reduce the asking price even further.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on August 14, 2018, 13:18
The green is probably the rarer, more desirable colour if you come to sell on, although Sable is a lovely colour too. You'll definitely struggle to get a green hard top so consider black as you say, which are also reasonably scarce, or just buy the best value at the time and get it sprayed/wrapped.
The Sable sounds strongly priced with your description of the blemishes etc but I've not looked for similar recently so it might be worth searching for a similar car to compare prices? (If you haven't already).
Re the seats there are different variations across the years and special editions but the main difference between pre and fl is the hole in the headrest which some say makes them draughty behind your head.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I have to be honest and say I am more taken by the Green, it's always a colour I've liked in similar cars (MGF especially) without actually owning one! - Didn't realise that they were rarer though!
The Sable does seem well priced v similar cars I've seen although ironically it coming with the HT actually to me seems more hassle just now (given that I'd rather use the soft top for the next few "warmer" months....)
Looks like the seats fitted into the Green one are Post Face Lift then as they have the hole in the headrest (as have all of the ones I've driven actually).
Quote from: 1979scotte on August 14, 2018, 14:07
For me Hardtops are a nuisance and I always end up selling them.
You should be able to get £500 for a hardtop and full fitting kit.
As said above the FL green is rare and much sort after.
Very late 06 cars do come with all the revisions to engine and chassis which is something to bare in mind.
I think I would go with the green and sell the fitting kit on to reduce the asking price even further.
I'd like the option of a hard-top but agree I may well just find it a nuisance, I am aware that the fitting kits themselves go for a decent price so thats an option, even more so as I know that I can get a set of Dark Green Blanking plates for £20 (not sure if they'll come with the car).
Out of interest, I'm aware that there were some further engine tweaks in later cars (although have read that the most catastrophic things were fixed post 2002), what sort of Chassis Tweaks were there on the later cars? Anything that I couldn't fit later if I wanted to?
Both cars you are looking at should have exactly the same chassis unless it is a very early 04. Mine is 04 and it has the latest chassis bracing. You would need to look under the front of the 06 car and then make sure the 04 looks the same. You'd be looking for 2 large longitudinal chassis elements running in parallel between the front wheels.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=mr2+roadster+chassis+brace&client=tablet-android-pega&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjt44Hm1uzcAhURecAKHX76BMAQ_AUIEigC&biw=600&bih=960#imgrc=WULGKpsQlO-RlM:
The engine wasn't properly fixed until late 2005 but if the 04 car has had annual oil changes it should be OK. Does the exhaust show any sign of oil burning?
Top of my head and I'll be corrected but it was mainly chassis stiffening and I think door bars in the last update, there were no cosmetic updates after the first facelift.
The last run of models may have the final revised piston/control rings but even that's not guaranteed.
It's a bit of a fallacy about post 2002 engines being "fixed" too, the key to engine life is regular servicing, any period of use with dirty oil will start to gum up the rings and reduce the life of the other component parts.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I assume you know it's worth checking the rear subframes very carefully for rust. That's probably the most likely hidden big bill (they will all go at some point) and therefore the best negotiating point.
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63117.0
New ones from Toyota cost c.£300 plus fitting.
You may well find that the 06 crossmember is in worse condition than the 04 - Scotte will be able to confirm this. A good look at it is the answer. Good luck with either one - you won't regret buying a 2! :)
Thanks everyone, I guess there's a potential argument for taking the Grey and making £500 selling off the Hardtop/Fitting kit which would somewhat close the price gap!
Going to see the Green one first though.....
Green
Quote from: chrismscotland on August 14, 2018, 21:57
Thanks everyone, I guess there's a potential argument for taking the Grey and making £500 selling off the Hardtop/Fitting kit which would somewhat close the price gap!
Going to see the Green one first though.....
you're going to be annoyed, since everybody else is saying "green", but that was exactly my thought (Sable and sell the hardtop to close the price gap), but then I'm clearly very partial to late-model Sable's :)
The difference in the seats is that the Facelift have a little gap in the top, near the headrest and the PFL's have a solid seat.... on the plus-side, the PFL's are lighter, but not sure if there's noticably less support from them though...
Quote from: chrismscotland on August 14, 2018, 21:57
Thanks everyone, I guess there's a potential argument for taking the Grey and making £500 selling off the Hardtop/Fitting kit which would somewhat close the price gap!
Going to see the Green one first though.....
It would seem from the above that you have not seen either the Green or Sable yet.
Up close and personal can often help decide in many situations.
Quote from: Joesson on August 15, 2018, 09:22
Quote from: chrismscotland on August 14, 2018, 21:57
Thanks everyone, I guess there's a potential argument for taking the Grey and making £500 selling off the Hardtop/Fitting kit which would somewhat close the price gap!
Going to see the Green one first though.....
It would seem from the above that you have not seen either the Green or Sable yet.
Up close and personal can often help decide in many situations.
Tbh Tony is right seeing and DRIVING as many as possible before you make a decision will allow you to make a more informed choice.
As Green with the roof down is the way to go, then buying the Sable car would be the more awkward route :)
The green one gets my vote :D
Thanks folks, I'm going down to have a proper look at the Green one tomorrow - generally seems in better condition and just had refurbed alloys, etc which puts it above the Sable one cosmetically.
I've driven enough other ones to know which ones feel good and which don't so thats obviously a consideration!
One question though, generally - a few cars I've seen for sale either don't have an original service book (Lost over the years and been re-constituted based on receipts, MOT's etc), I appreciate that in cars of this age that a FSH isn't a given - as long as there's firm evidence of work being done at regular intervals should I be worried?
Quote from: chrismscotland on August 15, 2018, 12:40
Thanks folks, I'm going down to have a proper look at the Green one tomorrow - generally seems in better condition and just had refurbed alloys, etc which puts it above the Sable one cosmetically.
I've driven enough other ones to know which ones feel good and which don't so thats obviously a consideration!
One question though, generally - a few cars I've seen for sale either don't have an original service book (Lost over the years and been re-constituted based on receipts, MOT's etc), I appreciate that in cars of this age that a FSH isn't a given - as long as there's firm evidence of work being done at regular intervals should I be worried?
Go with your gut.
I bought an 06 55k miles with tons of bills and receipts from a dealer.
Still needed new subframe new radiator and hand brake sorting.
That's always the big question.
If there's any significant doubt about regular oil changes on the 04, then the 06 could be the safer bet because it should have the "fixed" 1zz. I think you can confirm it by engine number.
Quote from: lamcote on August 15, 2018, 13:05
I think you can confirm it by engine number.
Interesting.... do tell - for my own curiosity, not this sale.
I'd love to work out when mine was made: it is first reg'd 12 July '07, but then I'm pretty sure it is only '05 manufacture and then sat around.... but not sure how to tell.
I'm sure it's on here somewhere but I can't find it at the moment.
Not really helpful and not the best wsy to choose. But how does the owner come across. Enthusiastic about the car but needs something else.
These are 12 year old cars at best.
Overall condition is the test now.
I would prefer to see bills than a stamp in a book.
Not to mention, when you get one. You will be advised to service it regardless.
Anywhere, WDIK I bought the 1st I seen.
A simple factor I have noticed when buying an older car is tyres.
Cheap non matching tyres are a dead give away to how a person cares for their car. Especially on a little sports car.
Good luck with your purchase
Joined the club!!! :D
congratulations - the Green FLs are lovely (and rare)
Very well played.
Let the spending commence!
Lets open the account with a full service.
Nice that! Clear side repeaters already, looks like a previous owner knew their stuff, wonder what other mods it's got...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Looks great well done
Quote from: Call the midlife! on August 16, 2018, 22:43
Nice that! Clear side repeaters already, looks like a previous owner knew their stuff, wonder what other mods it's got...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
about 99% sure clear repeaters are standard issue on a FL
Quote from: K T M Rider on August 16, 2018, 23:03
Quote from: Call the midlife! on August 16, 2018, 22:43
Nice that! Clear side repeaters already, looks like a previous owner knew their stuff, wonder what other mods it's got...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
about 99% sure clear repeaters are standard issue on a FL
Aaaah, every day's a school day!
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Thanks folks - really chuffed with it.
Seller drove it up from near Oakham to York and I met him there, drove it back up the road from York to Edinburgh - its had a good run anyway!!!
Welcome to 2 ownership. Nice looking 2.
Who said it wasn't practical......
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1875/30294068508_6d94ce0083_h.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/N9Z291)MR2 Golf Bag (https://flic.kr/p/N9Z291) by Chris Mitchell (https://www.flickr.com/photos/chrismscotland/), on Flickr
Loving it!!!!!
You can get a surprising amount in if you pack right and use space behind seats :)
Went camping once, couple in caravan next to us thought I had a Tardis...
Arghh not had it a week and the Engine Management Light has come on!! Ordered an ODB2 reader to try and diagnose the fault!
Quote from: chrismscotland on August 22, 2018, 08:55
Arghh not had it a week and the Engine Management Light has come on!! Ordered an ODB2 reader to try and diagnose the fault!
Dinna fret min! Would've sent you mine in post to borrow. Stay cool, hopefully somatt simples...
Yeh, like Derek said, don't fret - very likely to be a sensor. My previous 2 had its very first engine management light come on at just past 70k and 13 yrs old so not uncommon at all. Let us know how you get on. :)
Ah well some relief, appears it's just an O2 Sensor.
P0155 O2 Sensor heater circuit break
2 Sensor 1
Quote from: chrismscotland on August 22, 2018, 08:55
Arghh not had it a week and the Engine Management Light has come on!! Ordered an ODB2 reader to try and diagnose the fault!
Quote from: delhusband on August 22, 2018, 13:01
Dinna fret min! Would've sent you mine in post to borrow. Stay cool, hopefully somatt simples...
Quote from: chrismscotland on August 22, 2018, 20:25
Ah well some relief, appears it's just an O2 Sensor.
P0155 O2 Sensor heater circuit break
2 Sensor 1
See ah telt ye! from £48.70 new (I think). Do you have an O2 socket? I can send one if you need it
Par for the course.
Irritating, but not a biggie.
Welcome to 2 ownership.
Investment in a code reader. Double star points. Well played.
Well that was a piece of piss to change over, took me about 15 mins, car immediately running much better almost like a new car!
Quote from: chrismscotland on August 24, 2018, 20:10
Well that was a piece of piddle to change over, took me about 15 mins, car immediately running much better almost like a new car!
What did I tell you? Something simple ..... Great satisfaction when you've fixed something yourself, well done.
:)
well played. Again.
If your reader is of the bluetooth plugin dongle type, maybe get someting like Torque pro on your phone/tablet and then you can view your newly installed sensor doing its thing.
Sad? maybe. Satisfying? Definately.
Thought I'd post in here, wondering what my engine should sound like ideally?
Short clip here, was a bit concerned about wha seems like a rattley sound....
https://youtu.be/9ZNOhwFwcy0
Hi Chris, I wouldn't say they are the quietest smooth sounding engines particularly when they are cold, once warmed up they are less clattery. It's difficult to know whether yours is more clattery than normal. I know the rear nappy underneath can become loose and rattle.
Perhaps someone else can come along with the mechanical expertise.
Sounds a bit rough that? Any idea how old the chain tensioner is? Easy job to replace.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Not sure about the tensioner, I had thought it had been changed at the service (prior to my purchase) but given he hadn't spotted a totally seized brake caliper im a bit dubious.
As Midlife says, you might as well change the chain tensioner. Our affiliate, TCB Performance parts carries them. They are at most, a 60,000 mile item.
It's not an item the average mechanic will do at a service. Many think they last the life of the chain- not so.
If it's still rattley, you've got a couple of bigger than normal valve clearances.
As Chilli says, they rend to quiet down a bit when fully warm.
A really well adjusted valve train makes a 1zz a quiet little engine - but it's a not a job for a beginner.
They'll run noisily and happily for years.
If you decide to change the tensioner - there's a 'how to' for that job. I have the special o rings if you want one. F.O.C.
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=56959.0
I wish mine was that quiet!
Thanks folks will have a look at changing the chain tensioner, also glad to hear that its not uncommon to have a louder engine, I don't mind as long as its not about to go bang!
My fav colour that. Very nice
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: chrismscotland on August 24, 2018, 20:10
Well that was a piece of piddle to change over, took me about 15 mins, car immediately running much better almost like a new car!
I had the same - see "Emissions" on the troubleshooting thread. After I fixed mine, I found the fuel economy went from ~26-28mpg average to ~33-35mpg average... and that's mostly fairly enthusiastic B-road driving!! (all part of the limp-home rich fuelling it had been doing)