Hello chaps. First post. I recently bought an MR2 off of a member in here and I bloody love it. I had to take nearly a decade off of my car addiction while I used that money to build my businesses, but I could resist no longer. My little black 03 MR2 is so close to ticking every box, but there are 3 primary issues of mine; 1) the car's soundtrack 2) the wheels 3) the headunit. But this thread is about 1)
With the huge rev range, I was expecting more from the sound of the MR2. It sounds a little bit like a diesel at times and although when you thrash it isn't unpleasant, it's the area of the car I'm the least satisfied with. What's the best route (read: cheapest) to achieve a great sound? With my EP3 Type R I just swapped the exhaust for Spoon and it paid dividends. Ideally I would like a louder exhaust and generally more interesting tone. (NB: I'm not technical and would have to get a garage to do anything other than the basics).
Thanks!
I think there is a list of exhaust recordings here somewhere... otherwise YouTube is a good one..
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Many people like the sound of the tte/remus exhaust.
Ive got stock exhaust so can't really comment other than to say I've been in a 1zz with tte exhaust, and driven behind a 2zz at speed with the remus exhaust and they do sound nice. Heard people say cobra exhaust is on the louder scale, but no personal experience.
I like the induction noise i get from from the K&N cone filter and hacked up intake box that i got from auction at our annual "ding day" gathering
Hello and welcome.
The 2 was supplied initially with a single exit exhaust and that is what I have on my 2002 pre face lift (pfl) model.
Later models, face lift (fl) were typically supplied with a twin exhaust.
I'm guessing that is what you have.
If the standard twin exhaust is not sporty enough for you then as John says above You Tube may be of help.
I do know that a Cobra exhaust is generally considered to be loud.
I do like the sound of the Lotus style central exit exhaust available for the 2.
If you do have a twin exhaust and are going to be changing it please be aware that you will very likely be able to sell your old one on here.
There's a Cobra twin for sale on the Facebook group at the moment, they're quite "sporty", I actually thought it belonged to a member on here.
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IIRC @loadswine (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=524) had a Cobra exhaust but found it not to his taste as too loud and sold it to another.
Unfortunately, sound, like colour is very difficult to describe and needs some reference point /s to help.
Quote from: Joesson on September 27, 2018, 18:42
IIRC @loadswine (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=524) had a Cobra exhaust but found it not to his taste as too loud and sold it to another.
I actually thought it was E2Vs, I've only heard them on the show fields, never in full flight but they're definitely the loudest off the shelf aftermarket I'd say.
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Wow, prompt and very helpful replies to a completely newbie. What a community. Although my MR2 is post face-lift I believe, it is single exit exhaust.
I'll hit YouTube for some soundbytes. If anyone knows where the sound comparison thread is, throw it my way please!
Where are you in the world?
You have to bear in mind (as I'm sure you know from your previous statement) the same exhaust will sound different on different cars depending on what other goodies are on it. But you'll get the general idea.
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Quote from: Joesson on September 27, 2018, 17:39
Later models, face lift (fl) were typically supplied with a twin exhaust.
Wasn't aware - is that tf300's @Joesson (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18231)
Quote from: Baggsy on September 27, 2018, 18:59
Although my MR2 is post face-lift I believe, it is single exit exhaust.
Mine's fl, single exit
My cobra isn't loud ... There is a big difference in them I think.... I've heard some that are really loud though...
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on September 27, 2018, 19:02
Where are you in the world?
You have to bear in mind (as I'm sure you know from your previous statement) the same exhaust will sound different on different cars depending on what other goodies are on it. But you'll get the general idea.
I'm in Hertfordshire. A quick YouTube session yielding that I very much like the TTE. Where on earth do you actually get them from?
You either have to be patient for a second hand one, although 2 have recently changed hands on here, or spend a small fortune on a new Remus one.
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Quote from: Baggsy on September 27, 2018, 19:39
Quote from: Call the midlife! on September 27, 2018, 19:02
Where are you in the world?
You have to bear in mind (as I'm sure you know from your previous statement) the same exhaust will sound different on different cars depending on what other goodies are on it. But you'll get the general idea.
I'm in Hertfordshire. A quick YouTube session yielding that I very much like the TTE. Where on earth do you actually get them from?
Mine MAY be up for sale in the near-ish future.
They do sound rather lovely. But light they are not.
One of my clips is one of the first to come up on YouTube I think.
Quote from: delhusband on September 27, 2018, 19:08
Quote from: Joesson on September 27, 2018, 17:39
Later models, face lift (fl) were typically supplied with a twin exhaust.
Wasn't aware - is that tf300's @Joesson (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=18231)
Quote from: Baggsy on September 27, 2018, 18:59
Although my MR2 is post face-lift I believe, it is single exit exhaust.
Mine's fl, single exit
Correction, only the Very late models, the TF's had the twin exhaust as standard.
Quote from: Baggsy on September 27, 2018, 19:39
Quote from: Call the midlife! on September 27, 2018, 19:02
Where are you in the world?
You have to bear in mind (as I'm sure you know from your previous statement) the same exhaust will sound different on different cars depending on what other goodies are on it. But you'll get the general idea.
I'm in Hertfordshire. A quick YouTube session yielding that I very much like the TTE. Where on earth do you actually get them from?
http://www.remus.eu/sport-exhaust-with-left-right-each-1-tail-pipe-o-90-mm.html (http://www.remus.eu/sport-exhaust-with-left-right-each-1-tail-pipe-o-90-mm.html)
You getting one to go with the new manifold Del? Assuming you ever get it wrapped...
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on September 27, 2018, 21:07
You getting one to go with the new manifold Del?
I wish, funds don't permit that kind of luxury :(
Quote from: delhusband on September 27, 2018, 21:42
Quote from: Call the midlife! on September 27, 2018, 21:07
You getting one to go with the new manifold Del?
I wish, funds don't permit that kind of luxury :(
Even I wouldn't pay that just for a shiny exhaust!
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on September 27, 2018, 18:46
Quote from: Joesson on September 27, 2018, 18:42
IIRC @loadswine (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=524) had a Cobra exhaust but found it not to his taste as too loud and sold it to another.
I actually thought it was E2Vs, I've only heard them on the show fields, never in full flight but they're definitely the loudest off the shelf aftermarket I'd say.
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I did have a cobra, never fitted it tho as I went for a custom straight through system
Quote from: Essex2Visuvesi on September 27, 2018, 21:57
Quote from: Call the midlife! on September 27, 2018, 18:46
Quote from: Joesson on September 27, 2018, 18:42
IIRC @loadswine (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=524) had a Cobra exhaust but found it not to his taste as too loud and sold it to another.
I actually thought it was E2Vs, I've only heard them on the show fields, never in full flight but they're definitely the loudest off the shelf aftermarket I'd say.
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I did have a cobra, never fitted it tho as I went for a custom straight through system
It was a Garry that was selling this particular one, I put 2 and 2 together and got 28..[emoji23]
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TTE suits most people the best.
Cobra is loud as are Janspeed and the CHE copies.
Proflow or powerflow will knock you something up to suit your needs for less than a new Remus.
Hayward and Scott are great but rare and mine fell to pieces through spending too much time in Scotland.
Tbh the cheapest way of improving the sound of your 2 is swapping in a V6. ;)
Or you could always get a Fox and be in the exclusive minority...
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You may just have to wait until next summer, when you can go to Ding Day and listen to a complete orchestra of 2's blowing their own tune though various pipework systems.
I'd highly recommend the TTE on a NA 1ZZ - I could see how it would be a bit restrictive on a 2ZZ, but it suits a 1ZZ perfectly: a nice meaty burble at idle and a bit more "parp" from 4k rpm upwards... I think if you held that ~4k rpm for longer it could become a bit of a drone, so maybe a word of caution for PFL's (5 speed) for a motorway cruise or if you had more cylinders (presumably the equivalent of 4k rpm airflow would come in at much lower rpm), but my MR2 is a mostly for B-road hacks, so it's perfect and the drone hasn't started by ~80mph (in 6th), so I doubt it will ever bother me.
Quote from: Joesson on September 27, 2018, 17:39
Later models, face lift (fl) were typically supplied with a twin exhaust.
I'm pretty sure the later models were all still the same standard pipe with the oval trim, although more of the PFL's have had theirs replaced without the chrome trim, but pretty sure they should be identical.
TF300 was only the last run of a few hundred MR2's and that is where you have the meatier twin exit, either side of the bumper (TTE).
Quote from: Baggsy on September 27, 2018, 19:39
I'm in Hertfordshire. A quick YouTube session yielding that I very much like the TTE. Where on earth do you actually get them from?
We have the odd pub get-together nr Rickmansworth / Kings Langley - keep an eye on here: HERTS/BUCKS (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=65568.0) or the new one HERE (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=66278.msg780531;topicseen#msg780531)
...or if you fancy driving around to my neck of the woods, the Surrey/Sussex meets tend to be more road-based: HERE (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=64266.0)
Regarding prices: I've seen a few TTE's in the £120-£150 ballpark (but they either looked a little tired or had needed extensive repairs). I just paid £250 for one that is also a few years old (they're all ~10yrs old now), but must have been off a low mileage car as it seemed in very good condition and had been nicely cleaned up and refurbed. The one I got was a little more than most advertised, but it looked really decent and it was being kept somewhere that was semi-local and able to do the install, so it seemed like the sensible choice :)
A suggestion is to look at keeping the exhaust the same but look to fit a different air filter/cone filter behind the battery - you will get the sporty induction noise but not the drone on the motorway etc if you pick an exhaust that is too loud.
Quote from: m1tch on October 15, 2018, 12:58
A suggestion is to look at keeping the exhaust the same but look to fit a different air filter/cone filter behind the battery - you will get the sporty induction noise but not the drone on the motorway etc if you pick an exhaust that is too loud.
I second that. I don't hear my exhaust (TTE) over the roar of my intake when accelerating. I have no idea what my car sounds like from the outside.
The intake definitely brought the smile-inducing noise. I did very much enjoy the rumble of the TTE before that,mind. But if it's a throaty roar you're after, there's nothing like hearing the noise that comes straight from your intake manifold.
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Third on the above, similarly to what Shnazzle says, I've no idea what my car sounds like from outside etc. I know others have commented approvingly on group drives but all I hear is growl.
Another thing to think about if not already mentioned is the age/condition of your manifold, cat and backbox. Years worth of carbon and oily deposits can really mute the tone, maybe try some cataclean or similar to see if that makes a difference?
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Quote from: shnazzle on October 15, 2018, 13:14
I have no idea what my car sounds like from the outside.
It sounds good :) .
How do you know?? :) you've only ever heard Helen's
Quote from: delhusband on October 15, 2018, 13:48
Quote from: shnazzle on October 15, 2018, 13:14
I have no idea what my car sounds like from the outside.
It sounds good :) .
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on October 15, 2018, 13:43
I've no idea what my car sounds like from outside
It, also, sounds nice :)
(but then you do the whole car park rev thing, and i think "hooligan") ::)
Quote from: shnazzle on October 15, 2018, 13:50
How do you know?? :) you've only ever heard Helen's
Not true. Dales run. Your car smelled rich. I was getting high. But my ears were pleased. Oh, and Holy Isle run.
Quote from: delhusband on October 15, 2018, 13:52
Quote from: shnazzle on October 15, 2018, 13:50
How do you know?? :) you've only ever heard Helen's
Not true. Dales run. Your car smelled rich. I was getting high. But my ears were pleased. Oh, and Holy Isle run.
Ah! Forgot. I thought mine hadn't come out for a run in yonks.
It will smell rich with half my exhaust not making it to the cat hahaha.
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Quote from: delhusband on October 15, 2018, 13:50
Quote from: Call the midlife! on October 15, 2018, 13:43
I've no idea what my car sounds like from outside
It, also, sounds nice :)
(but then you do the whole car park rev thing, and i think "hooligan") ::)
I resemble that remark!!
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How about cracking the back box open and removing a bit of the fluff inside?
Quote from: 1979scotte on September 27, 2018, 22:32
Tbh the cheapest way of improving the sound of your 2 is swapping in a V6. ;)
Ahem:
https://youtu.be/XIPSSiU4T4k
Quote from: Alex Knight on October 22, 2018, 06:37
Quote from: 1979scotte on September 27, 2018, 22:32
Tbh the cheapest way of improving the sound of your 2 is swapping in a V6. ;)
Ahem:
https://youtu.be/XIPSSiU4T4k
That only works at high rpm.
V6 sounds good even at idle ;) :P
Sorry very busy with work and I put my plans on the back burner. It's now on the front burner.
Quote from: m1tch on October 15, 2018, 12:58
A suggestion is to look at keeping the exhaust the same but look to fit a different air filter/cone filter behind the battery - you will get the sporty induction noise but not the drone on the motorway etc if you pick an exhaust that is too loud.
Interesting. Any suggestions on which? I've generally found it tricky to get things I want near me!
Quote from: Baggsy on April 24, 2019, 23:27
Sorry very busy with work and I put my plans on the back burner. It's now on the front burner.
Quote from: m1tch on October 15, 2018, 12:58
A suggestion is to look at keeping the exhaust the same but look to fit a different air filter/cone filter behind the battery - you will get the sporty induction noise but not the drone on the motorway etc if you pick an exhaust that is too loud.
Interesting. Any suggestions on which? I've generally found it tricky to get things I want near me!
I've removed the stock air box and filter, and fitted a K&N RC2600 universal to a cutout of the airbox section that houses the vanes for the MAF and mates with the intake hose (apologies, worst description ever probably, someone else made the cutout if the air box, I bought it at Ding Day auction.) it sounds nice :) . There's a few offerings from K&N, Blitz and AEM, more probably. Bit pricey for my liking though. Many have said though that stock setup better for temperature of intake air, and my particular filter is one which is cleaned and then oil applied periodically and I've read that the oil can eventually coat components like the MAF and lead to some degradation of the part. No expert here, just what I've read.
Quote from: delhusband on April 25, 2019, 06:47
Quote from: Baggsy on April 24, 2019, 23:27
Sorry very busy with work and I put my plans on the back burner. It's now on the front burner.
Quote from: m1tch on October 15, 2018, 12:58
A suggestion is to look at keeping the exhaust the same but look to fit a different air filter/cone filter behind the battery - you will get the sporty induction noise but not the drone on the motorway etc if you pick an exhaust that is too loud.
Interesting. Any suggestions on which? I've generally found it tricky to get things I want near me!
I've removed the stock air box and filter, and fitted a K&N RC2600 universal to a cutout of the airbox section that houses the vanes for the MAF and mates with the intake hose (apologies, worst description ever probably, someone else made the cutout if the air box, I bought it at Ding Day auction.) it sounds nice :) . There's a few offerings from K&N, Blitz and AEM, more probably. Bit pricey for my liking though. Many have said though that stock setup better for temperature of intake air, and my particular filter is one which is cleaned and then oil applied periodically and I've read that the oil can eventually coat components like the MAF and lead to some degradation of the part. No expert here, just what I've read.
The K&N ´oil´ is nor really oil and is should be applied ever so sparingly. If it gets byond the filter there is too much.
The K&N fliter cloth is not the main active part. As strange as it may seem, the meta gauze is. The filter works on electrostatics. Particles are attracted to the metal. The liquid is field enhancing medium. The cñloth collects the parts to large/heavy to be deviated.
The foam/oil filters also do nót work like ´filters´. They are centrifugal filters. The foam is of open structure and the air is forced to go through tight corners, which slings particels to the outside. The oil is meant to leave only a tacky surface retaining them.
So again; apply lightly and let it dry till you draw ´hairs´ upon toutching.
This observed; the OEM set up is the best. A twin layer tacky foam insert would be an improvement but best not mess with the rest unless for a véry specific goal. Even a longer inlet stub will cost more elsewehere than it gains in the higher end of the power curve.
I found tchanging to an open cat back the only way to really change the tune the car sings.
And the drone... ah well, drones are all the fashion :-)
No seriously, my motorcycle not-muffler drones seriously but changing up/down will sort that and I found the aerial more of a nuisance.
Out of interest I see the Remus links from last year are now dead on their site. I wonder what they did with any remaining stock? Or if they just kept blueprints/jigs just in case of orders?
Even the newest TTE/Remus will be 10+ years old now you'd have thought. Mine's already had a new flange welded on.
I wouldn't want another one. All said and done, yes they sound and look great, but they're quite bad. They're heavy as all hell and flow isn't particularly fantastic. Albeit more than capable for a stock 1zz.
Quote from: shnazzle on April 25, 2019, 12:14
I wouldn't want another one. All said and done, yes they sound and look great, but they're quite bad. They're heavy as all hell and flow isn't particularly fantastic. Albeit more than capable for a stock 1zz.
Electricaly ´glue´ a motorbike one to fit and swap fro OEM for MoT ;D
Quote from: Petrus on April 25, 2019, 09:59
Quote from: delhusband on April 25, 2019, 06:47
Quote from: Baggsy on April 24, 2019, 23:27
Sorry very busy with work and I put my plans on the back burner. It's now on the front burner.
Quote from: m1tch on October 15, 2018, 12:58
A suggestion is to look at keeping the exhaust the same but look to fit a different air filter/cone filter behind the battery - you will get the sporty induction noise but not the drone on the motorway etc if you pick an exhaust that is too loud.
Interesting. Any suggestions on which? I've generally found it tricky to get things I want near me!
I've removed the stock air box and filter, and fitted a K&N RC2600 universal to a cutout of the airbox section that houses the vanes for the MAF and mates with the intake hose (apologies, worst description ever probably, someone else made the cutout if the air box, I bought it at Ding Day auction.) it sounds nice :) . There's a few offerings from K&N, Blitz and AEM, more probably. Bit pricey for my liking though. Many have said though that stock setup better for temperature of intake air, and my particular filter is one which is cleaned and then oil applied periodically and I've read that the oil can eventually coat components like the MAF and lead to some degradation of the part. No expert here, just what I've read.
The K&N ´oil´ is nor really oil and is should be applied ever so sparingly. If it gets byond the filter there is too much.
The K&N fliter cloth is not the main active part. As strange as it may seem, the meta gauze is. The filter works on electrostatics. Particles are attracted to the metal. The liquid is field enhancing medium. The cñloth collects the parts to large/heavy to be deviated.
The foam/oil filters also do nót work like ´filters´. They are centrifugal filters. The foam is of open structure and the air is forced to go through tight corners, which slings particels to the outside. The oil is meant to leave only a tacky surface retaining them.
So again; apply lightly and let it dry till you draw ´hairs´ upon toutching.
Just be cautious.
I have used the K&N and others gauze/oil or foam like filters in the past. It seems that on independent tests they have shown to increase the amount of dirt that enters an engine. I have confirmed this on used oil analysis and therefore stoped using them.
Another issue with the oil gauze filters is MAF wire contamination with the oil vapor. This contamination will throw off the MAF reading and in time will permanently ruin the MAF.
This has been widely reported which prompted K&N to respond to the allegations where they mentioned it was the owners fault for over oiling the filter however it turns out that K&N was supplying the filters over oiled which made their point mute.
Because these filters became a widely known problem other manufactures like AEM and INJEN offered oil less filters that use cellulose material instead of gauze. The trade off was a little more restriction and shorter life before it has to be thrown out however its filtration efficiency is far better and almost as good as the paper.
There is no free lunch when it comes to filtration and it's a trade off.
Quote from: Dev on April 25, 2019, 23:19
Quote from: Petrus on April 25, 2019, 09:59
Quote from: delhusband on April 25, 2019, 06:47
Quote from: Baggsy on April 24, 2019, 23:27
Sorry very busy with work and I put my plans on the back burner. It's now on the front burner.
Quote from: m1tch on October 15, 2018, 12:58
A suggestion is to look at keeping the exhaust the same but look to fit a different air filter/cone filter behind the battery - you will get the sporty induction noise but not the drone on the motorway etc if you pick an exhaust that is too loud.
Interesting. Any suggestions on which? I've generally found it tricky to get things I want near me!
I've removed the stock air box and filter, and fitted a K&N RC2600 universal to a cutout of the airbox section that houses the vanes for the MAF and mates with the intake hose (apologies, worst description ever probably, someone else made the cutout if the air box, I bought it at Ding Day auction.) it sounds nice :) . There's a few offerings from K&N, Blitz and AEM, more probably. Bit pricey for my liking though. Many have said though that stock setup better for temperature of intake air, and my particular filter is one which is cleaned and then oil applied periodically and I've read that the oil can eventually coat components like the MAF and lead to some degradation of the part. No expert here, just what I've read.
The K&N ´oil´ is nor really oil and is should be applied ever so sparingly. If it gets byond the filter there is too much.
The K&N fliter cloth is not the main active part. As strange as it may seem, the meta gauze is. The filter works on electrostatics. Particles are attracted to the metal. The liquid is field enhancing medium. The cñloth collects the parts to large/heavy to be deviated.
The foam/oil filters also do nót work like ´filters´. They are centrifugal filters. The foam is of open structure and the air is forced to go through tight corners, which slings particels to the outside. The oil is meant to leave only a tacky surface retaining them.
So again; apply lightly and let it dry till you draw ´hairs´ upon toutching.
Just be cautious.
I have used the K&N and others gauze/oil or foam like filters in the past. It seems that on independent tests they have shown to increase the amount of dirt that enters an engine. I have confirmed this on used oil analysis and therefore stoped using them.
Another issue with the oil gauze filters is MAF wire contamination with the oil vapor. This contamination will throw off the MAF reading and in time will permanently ruin the MAF.
This has been widely reported which prompted K&N to respond to the allegations where they mentioned it was the owners fault for over oiling the filter however it turns out that K&N was supplying the filters over oiled which made their point mute.
Because these filters became a widely known problem other manufactures like AEM and INJEN offered oil less filters that use cellulose material instead of gauze. The trade off was a little more restriction and shorter life before it has to be thrown out however its filtration efficiency is far better and almost as good as the paper.
There is no free lunch when it comes to filtration and it's a trade off.
So what's your view on the TRD air filter? Same as a k&n?
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Quote from: Dev on April 25, 2019, 23:19
There is no free lunch when it comes to filtration and it's a trade off.
There is basically no free lunch, period ;)
Also the OEM compromises in modern cars are só good, só well researched and developed that it is more than a rule of thumb that any inprovement in a specific area comes with more downsizes in others.
That said, I have a double layer foam filter in the OEM intake system. More as a Pavlov thing remaining from dirt bikes; TwinAir, PolyAir....
Since this is a running thread I'll ask this.....the oem intake section in the rear wing is wrapped in 'polythene'.
Why?
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on April 26, 2019, 10:27
Since this is a running thread I'll ask this.....the oem intake section in the rear wing is wrapped in 'polythene'.
Why?
Insulation?
Quote from: Petrus on April 26, 2019, 11:36
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on April 26, 2019, 10:27
Since this is a running thread I'll ask this.....the oem intake section in the rear wing is wrapped in 'polythene'.
Why?
Insulation?
Isn't the first section inside the inner wing made of some sort of fibrous/fabric material?
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I can only imagine the fabric is noise insulation and the plastic is to stop the insulation from rotting
It's a black plastic (abs?) pipe wrapped in a stout polythene-like material. A bit reminiscent of the hoods used on toddlers prams as a rain-shield.
Has nobody ever asked this before?
Are you talking about the pipe that connects to the airbox or the pipe in the inner wing? I'm lost now..
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Quote from: jvanzyl on April 26, 2019, 07:37
So what's your view on the TRD air filter? Same as a k&n?
If it uses the same oil gauze type of filter I would avoid it. TRD might be a division of Toyota but they also peddle in aftermarket nonsense. I suppose if they are not taking that market share someone else will and thats why they do it. This is not to say that all TRD parts are suspect but over the last 20 years or so they have either rebadged or asked other aftermarket companies to make popular bolt on parts for them.
With aftermarket air filters there is a benefit but not enough to matter and in some cases you can lose power. The K&N type filters will be less restrictive but to a certain point where it will be equal to a paper filter as it gets dirty.
When cars were tested between stock and aftermarket the gains were a lot less than the lofty claims.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on April 26, 2019, 17:18
Are you talking about the pipe that connects to the airbox or the pipe in the inner wing? I'm lost now..
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Inside rear wing. Only pipe with any covering.
The only hing I can come up with is insulation to reduce condensation on the inside of the rear wing but as it is a plastic pipe that is ?????
Not as it seemed. It is not a black plastic pipe all the way. The ends are, but inbetween is a 'fabric' tube. It's coloured a pale brown on the inside, & black on the outer. It gives the pipe flexibility. Perhaps the plastic covering is to stop the material getting condensation if it comes into contact with the inside of the wing.
Why they didn't just use a flexy plastic...... :-\
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on April 27, 2019, 10:30
Not as it seemed. It is not a black plastic pipe all the way. The ends are, but inbetween is a 'fabric' tube. It's coloured a pale brown on the inside, & black on the outer. It gives the pipe flexibility. Perhaps the plastic covering is to stop the material getting condensation if it comes into contact with the inside of the wing.
Why they didn't just use a flexy plastic...... :-\
That's why I was asking which pipe as I knew it wasn't plastic, I've always assumed it's to absorb moisture from the incoming air to dry it before getting to the filter. Or prevent heat soak from the sun on the wing, either way they've done it for a Toyota reason.[emoji23]
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Quote from: Baggsy
Interesting. Any suggestions on which? I've generally found it tricky to get things I want near me!
IF you're looking for the cheapest route possible, why not drill the bottom of the factory airbox? It's FREEE, more induction noise, don't need to declare it as a mod and hardly any heatsoak compared to a cone filter. Just drill loads of tiny 5-6mm holes in the bottom panel of the airbox.
This was one of the first mods I did as a cone filter seemed to make the car sluggish at bottom end. The induction sound of a drilled box is slightly less than a cone filter but still sounds pretty neat. As a bonus, it actually improve throttle response and acceleration for me and no engine management light.
Also if you're still wanting more noise, why not go for an electronic exhaust valve instead of going for a pricey aftermarket exhaust? I have one and it's the best thing ever lol. It lets you choose between stock and loud whenever you want :D
Cheaper yet (as you're not damaging a stock component) is removing the elbow pipe between the airbox and the opening behind the rear light.
100% reversible and added induction noise. With little to no change in temperature. Probably less so than drilling as you're not sucking rising hot air from below the airbox.
Or... Just leave it and go for exhaust noise. The only induction noise that is attractive is either forced or through independent throttle bodies.
A nicely tuned exhaust scream on the other hand.... Very nice.