Quick quiz, what oil did you use for "breaking in"? Or was it just a question of changing the oil for fresh on this one?
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on March 19, 2019, 11:08
Quick quiz, what oil did you use for "breaking in"? Or was it just a question of changing the oil for fresh on this one?
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Standard 5-30 Fuchs.... Just put fresh in and will change when the car has done 100 or so I reckon...
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Quote from: jvanzyl on March 19, 2019, 11:09
Quote from: Call the midlife! on March 19, 2019, 11:08
Quick quiz, what oil did you use for "breaking in"? Or was it just a question of changing the oil for fresh on this one?
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Standard 5-30 Fuchs.... Just put fresh in and will change when the car has done 100 or so I reckon...
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Yeah, not sure what to put in mine for the start up really, I've got my normal Fuchs for the first change but not sure if something less high spec would be better for all the new bits.
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Mobil Super 3000X1 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil 5W30 5L 0342808
Available from Wilko at £26.00
Recommended by Mobil (who lubricate Toyota endurance team cars) for daily use.
I have used this for several years in my 2 and also in my daily that is a Ford diesel.
Quote from: Joesson on March 19, 2019, 11:38
Mobil Super 3000X1 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil 5W30 5L 0342808
Available from Wilko at £26.00
Recommended by Mobil (who lubricate Toyota endurance team cars) for daily use.
I have used this for several years in my 2 and also in my daily that is a Ford diesel.
I'm good for normal, everyday use but it's a dry, rebuilt engine with new pistons, rings and cams.
And not wanting to spam John's thread I'll take this somewhere else, cheers [emoji1303]
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Hopefully not completely "dry".
Quote from: Joesson on March 19, 2019, 12:34
Hopefully not completely "dry".
[emoji23]
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"You want some proper running in oil I have just ordered 20 litres of Millers running in Oil from Opie Oils.
Fully synthetic wont let the rings bed in correctly."
Stolen from another forum.
As we do have a "resident" oil specialist in Opie, maybe a good idea ask " him".
Quote from: Joesson on March 19, 2019, 13:39
"You want some proper running in oil I have just ordered 20 litres of Millers running in Oil from Opie Oils.
Fully synthetic wont let the rings bed in correctly."
Stolen from another forum.
As we do have a "resident" oil specialist in Opie, maybe a good idea ask " him".
Yeah, fair one, cheers.[emoji1303]
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Quote from: Joesson on March 19, 2019, 13:39
"You want some proper running in oil I have just ordered 20 litres of Millers running in Oil from Opie Oils.
Fully synthetic wont let the rings bed in correctly."
Stolen from another forum.
As we do have a "resident" oil specialist in Opie, maybe a good idea ask " him".
I have a different marque with a rebuilt engine. The machine-work was done by a renowned place in Derbyshire, & they said to the guy building it to use a mineral oil for
500 miles.Edit:- 1000 miles from the company themselves.
I've heard mineral oil is the thing to use but I don't really have a clue.
Yes not synthetic oil for at least a few oil changes. You want the machining to wear in quickly during this crucial process.
Synthetic oil is too slippery and can cause cylinder wall glazing and then you will have oil consumption issues. You can also have issues if you are too easy on the motor during the break in.
Factory built engines are more forgiving and dont have these break in issues due to better machining and tolerances but rebuilt engines do.
Fired it up today with Millers CRO 10-40 mineral oil, I'll leave it in for around 500 miles of standard "me" driving and see what it's like when I drop it.
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I'd do 100 then 500.
Quote from: Carolyn on March 24, 2019, 18:24
I'd do 100 then 500.
That was going to be the plan initially but was led to believe the Millers was good for 500.
Unless I do 100 on it and then put more of it in for another 500 ?
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Quote from: Carolyn on March 24, 2019, 18:24
I'd do 100 then 500.
Agreed. You want as much of that initial machining out of there. On factory cars its not an issue and in some cases they forbid you to change the factory oil early because they add some additives that are used for the break in process. Some other manufactures break in their motors in a room but they don't tell you that and claim its factory filled with synthetic oil.
I would even recommend using non synthetic oil for a good while before changing to synthetic even after the break in process just so it gets seasoned.
A small magnet on the sump plug is a big help for getting the fine stuff out of there.
I have a few if you want one.
Quote from: Carolyn on March 24, 2019, 18:44
A small magnet on the sump plug is a big help for getting the fine stuff out of there.
I have a few if you want one.
I've fitted one of those fancy sump plugs with the magnet built in so I'm good there thanks. Surprising how hard they are to get in the hole if you're reaching round a corner, it kept attaching to the sump instead of going in the hole [emoji23]
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