MR2 Roadster Owners Club

I thought i'd better start a new readers ride as the old one is a really out of date now!
In 2015 we bought the car for the Mrs as a daily which ended up in someones garden via the fence
(https://i.imgur.com/GLEkGikm.jpg)

Quick trip here
(https://i.imgur.com/sfY3SPRm.jpg)

and it was back to normal
(https://i.imgur.com/D5RLx8Qm.jpg)

Then this happened along with a front side swipe on a roundabout
(https://i.imgur.com/T19VlcIm.jpg)

and the Mrs decided she didn't want to drive it anymore so she nicked my Subaru Outback and I was using the MR2

Having raced and rallied over the years I thought about a return so sent it to JP Cages for a half cage
(https://i.imgur.com/ncvkrKqm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YIm32o0m.jpg)

While it was there the worst happened and I had a heart attack - who'd have thought it at 47 but hey ho!
Apologies for the following if anyones squeamish but this is my heart pre and post op!
(https://i.imgur.com/mxvdz2Nm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yzkWfk3m.jpg)

Things on hold for a bit whilst trying to convince the MSA that I had to take a substance for my health that is on the banned list for sports.
Eventually they agreed and issued my license!

I also needed a tow vehicle and new trailer so bought a camper (which has now been half way round Europe as well)
(https://i.imgur.com/k0LQTWqm.jpg)

and trailer
(https://i.imgur.com/pqjrXjKm.jpg)

I was on the lookout for some TTE lowering springs as in the standard class you are allowed factory / dealer options as well as the safety upgrades. A pair of buckets and harnesses were bought, racesuit, gloves, boots and after asking for vouchers for Demon Tweeks for Christmas a new helmet.

I had planned to have a year in standard then move up a class to roadgoing which allows most mods but the engine / box etc has to be original but again any of the dealer options are allowed.

Earlier this year while sat on a campsite in France browsing marketplace (which is really dangerous), a set of TTE springs came up but they were attached to this
(https://i.imgur.com/myaB0nhm.jpg)

The advantage was it also has this
(https://i.imgur.com/pTbRvAHm.jpg)

Some of you may remember it as it was a build on here a long time ago but doesn't look like it's turned a wheel since.

Both wouldn't fit on the drive so I rented a small unit and started swapping the suspension over and also bought new bushes (standard)
I had thought about building the new car into the roadgoing class car but having had it up in the air i'm not sure the shell is salvageable. It's in much worse nick than my other one which is bordering on immaculate underneath.

I'll get some more updates up in due course

Wow. Hell of a story! 
Hope your ticker is doing a bit better now. Certainly looks like the stent did its job

It's all just set me back time wise but we will get there!

Tickers great thanks - I didn't even know i'd had the heart attack until the next day but yes it definitely did!!

Good find

This is the turbo kit the new one has on it

https://www.mr2oc.com/66-spyder-turbos-engine-swaps/329306-mvp-install-power-enterprise-turbo-kit.html

and the difference in the 2 front bays
(https://i.imgur.com/amXcaurl.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/weIpCnUl.jpg)

There's so much more rust on the turbo car - same underneath!

It may just be figures quoted etc and the difference between whp and bhp not being treated the same, but I see a lot of US spyder making 200 whp on just 6-7psi.

There's a red one on YouTube at the moment making 217whp at 7psi, hakosan I think his username is. Standard mwr kit with intercooler as far as I can see.

I'm at 198bhp at the wheels, and to be honest wouldn't want much more for b road blasting.

Great to see another turbo build, perhaps sort a club rolling road day in the future?

Quote from: Gaz2405 on September 29, 2019, 16:43It may just be figures quoted etc and the difference between whp and bhp not being treated the same, but I see a lot of US spyder making 200 whp on just 6-7psi.

There's a red one on YouTube at the moment making 217whp at 7psi, hakosan I think his username is. Standard mwr kit with intercooler as far as I can see.

I'm at 198bhp at the wheels, and to be honest wouldn't want much more for b road blasting.

Great to see another turbo build, perhaps sort a club rolling road day in the future?

I do take some of these figures with a pinch of salt at times - 192whp from this kit with standard  ecu and rising fuel pressure regulator with no extra cooling seems way too high - possibly 160 at the wheels at best!

I still need to race the car in standard class n/a so the turbo will take a while - possibly the end of next season when I swap it all over.

I bought this car so cheap i'm planning on keeping it that way (for the time being).

I also picked up a JDM box with LSD a while ago so that will go on when I make the swap.

That gives me a year to pick up braces, roll bars, coilovers (XYZ's are the top of my list at the minute), test 17" rims then decide on 1b tyres + possibly add a front to the cage and get lighter seats - you get the picture

(https://i.imgur.com/MGaIR0Ml.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AltyOwPl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RQpUQ0Ol.jpg)

Had a couple of hours this aft swapping things over - should be back running next time I get to the unit!

So i finally got the car out of the unit last night and took it to work today - what a difference!

Apart from the TTE springs and low mileage shocks all the replacement parts are standard but new - drop links front and rear, anti roll bar bushes, control arms, track rod ends and also a facelift front lower brace!

It almost feels like a new car and i've not had the geo done yet, I did a best educated guess - there's a roundabout on the way home with a hole you can't avoid half way round. It used to skip and jump when I hit it but not now - it just didn't bother it at all!! Also, no creaks, bangs, knocks etc etc

I know this is a hillclimb car but it does have to be completely standard mechanically (until I swap the turbo in and then i will polybush, coilover, every brace known to man etc and move up a class)

So the morale to the story is if you want your car to feel very very refreshed without polybushing and coilovers just replace everything as new! It's night and day

 

Nice one mate!

I thought the bushes couldn't be bought individually... did you installed new arms?

I did Gaetan, new Yaris arms and then all the other bits - I'll do the door bushings next! Still not sure how much difference they'll make as I have the rear cage but we'll see!!

Nice. thumbs up emoji if we had one.

Quote from: Ardent on February 25, 2020, 22:10Nice. thumbs up emoji if we had one.

As "someone"  sometimes says " Here to help"

👍 or for the continental membership 👌

Quote from: tets on October 20, 2019, 15:59(https://i.imgur.com/MGaIR0Ml.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AltyOwPl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RQpUQ0Ol.jpg)

Had a couple of hours this aft swapping things over - should be back running next time I get to the unit!

Ah, garage envy.

Glad to see you've been mended yourself.

& er, yeah, garage envy...

Ah, garage envy.

Glad to see you've been mended yourself.

& er, yeah, garage envy...
[/quote]

Cheers but the problem is it's not big enough - I have the cars in but can't fit my camper or trailer in!! Looking at a bigger unit at the minute but it's a bit costly!!

Quote from: tets on February 26, 2020, 16:16Ah, garage envy.

Glad to see you've been mended yourself.

& er, yeah, garage envy...

Cheers but the problem is it's not big enough - I have the cars in but can't fit my camper or trailer in!! Looking at a bigger unit at the minute but it's a bit costly!!
[/quote]

Costly also would be a car lift (or two) but would be a resalable asset rather than additional rental,  here is a review of pros and cons of two and four post lifts.
 

https://procarreviews.com/best-car-lift/

Costly also would be a car lift (or two) but would be a resalable asset rather than additional rental,  here is a review of pros and cons of two and four post lifts.
 

https://procarreviews.com/best-car-lift/

[/quote]

I'd love one but unfortunately there is a dog leg in the entrance that ensures neither will fit in. If I can get a bigger unit i'll get one anyway as i'm sick of crawling round on the floor!!

How much was the JP half cage?

Quote from: Mark A on February 26, 2020, 19:25How much was the JP half cage?

I think it was £450 fitted from the top of my head - I did get a bit of a deal as he used it to make the jig!

So with the season all but cancelled I'm now toying with the idea of doing the turbo swap early! I just need a couple of bits if I can get them.

I printed the PE turbo installation guide from the reference section to check the previous owner did it correctly when I refit it.

Even though i've just serviced it i reckon i'll need a new oil filter so I can fit the oil cooler and some new plugs.
In theory everything else should be ok to just swap over.

I just need to suss the fueling out as it has a modified fuel rail with a return which is leaking. Carolyn sent me a new o ring so if it is just that i'll keep it otherwise and stick with the stock one which the original kit used.

I also need a wideband and boost gauge and might aswell fit an oil pressure gauge while i'm fannying about in there!

Car looks great - do you happen to have the part numbers for the Yaris wishbones?

cheers, I don't have the part numbers but the link is here

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/For-Toyota-Yaris-1999-2006-Lower-Front-Wishbones-Suspension-Arms-Pair/332659560803?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I've started doing the inventory based on the install guide and what I see in the pics I have.

i need a few more bits than I expected, some of which I seem to be able to get but it gives me enough to get going with.

I do have a question for the turbo guys - what (if anything) have you done with fueling, specifically the pump / regulator?
The kit I have removes the existing pressure regulator, from in the fuel pump, replaces it with with a replacement unknown part (as it doesn't seem to have a spec) other than it's a rising rate one - and the install looks like this from above
(http://i.imgur.com/sitZv64m.jpg) (https://imgur.com/sitZv64)

Now my kit has this
(http://i.imgur.com/GdlHS1km.jpg) (https://imgur.com/GdlHS1k)

I read back through @Essex2Visuvesi original build and can't find reference to the fueling.

Also I need to fabricate a brace as they had problems with the manifolds cracking but any old pics of them have long since gone - long shot but don't suppose @loadswine still has any pics of Perry's brace - the ones you posted are no longer showing?

I need to get to the unit and strip the interior to have a look in the tank but I don't think it will be classed as essential travel at the minute.

More to follow -

Looks like good progress.

Fuel reg/pump wise what are your plan for engine management and injectors etc ?  these will determine what you need to do, ideally you want a proper ecu or at least a good piggyback, stock injectors will not make a lot of power unless you up the fuel pressure and make a return fuel rail system to do so, stock fuel rail is a returnless system so as you add boost fuel pressure doesnt rise like you get with a return setup and regulator, reading again sounds like maybe you have a return fuel rail ?

Ive messed about with unknown fuel regulators before on other cars and never again, nearly cost me an engine!  best to use a proper setup as fueling is one of the most critical things!

Quote from: thetyrant on April 13, 2020, 10:57Looks like good progress.

Fuel reg/pump wise what are your plan for engine management and injectors etc ?  these will determine what you need to do, ideally you want a proper ecu or at least a good piggyback, stock injectors will not make a lot of power unless you up the fuel pressure and make a return fuel rail system to do so, stock fuel rail is a returnless system so as you add boost fuel pressure doesnt rise like you get with a return setup and regulator, reading again sounds like maybe you have a return fuel rail ?

Ive messed about with unknown fuel regulators before on other cars and never again, nearly cost me an engine!  best to use a proper setup as fueling is one of the most critical things!

The original PE Kit came with a rising rate pressure regulator from new which replaced the one in the tank. Obviously mine has the external one and yes, I have a return on the rail.

The original kit came with very little to be honest and used stock ECU, fuel rail, injectors etc - MWR reckoned about 50 WHP over stock which is the 1st pic

Over the original kit this one has an aftermarket wastegate with a 0.3 spring in (again I think from reading back), obviously the fuel regulator, oil cooler and straight through exhaust.
I do have a unichip with boost controller ready to fit and there's a Dastek tuner who is very reputable down the road which albeit not the best available would do until I decide to upgrade bits.

I won't run it until i've got a wideband and i've found a boost gauge with a digital display that you can set an alarm at a certain level which I like the sound of.

The thing I do like about this set up (albeit old tech) is that it boosts virtually straight away and and is producing full boost at just over 3ooo rpm.

I'm not aiming for bhp figures here but low down laggless grunt. I really need an intercooler and I need really short pipes again to avoid lag but there's loads of room where the exhaust would normally be so no problem fitting that and the oil cooler there. Simple heat shield between the turbo and intercooler should be easy.

Ok sounds like it might be ok then and its just wether to run that unknown regulator i guess, as long as you have a wideband and can watch the fueling accurately it should be ok to at least try it.

Ive no experience of Unichip but if the mapper is confident he can work with it on a boosted setup that could be a cheap option, in my experience of other piggybacks you need to be cautious and always a bit of a compromise.

Boost wise the saab t25 on my sp240 kit is very responsive even with the small intercooler setup, easily at full boost by 3k as well, not having an intercooler you will struggle with intake temps massively especially on warm days, ive found mine works ok for road and short bursts on track 1-2 laps @ 5psi and think it would of been ok for sprints if i had chance to try it!  Im now removing my kit due to engine health issues  :(

Yeah, thats the only do i / don't i bit of it! With the wideband as you say, I can check it easily. The mapper is a race engineer called Ric Wood that comes highly recommended so i'd like to think he'll be fine.

I re read the figures and it comes on boost at 1300 rpm and hit's full at 2700 rpm so just under 3k which is perfect for getting it out of the hairpins.

I think an intercooler will be fine with a heat shield and the rear lid guard thingy removed for 1 or 2 lap sprints and a mile up a hill!

Just waiting for my compression tester to turn up and i'll check the current car. I do still have the option to drop the whole lot and swap everything if I need to. I'm not doing the clutch just yet as I have a Jap box to open up and check over so will do this at the same time.

Bits are ordered so as soon as I can get out and they arrive we'll crack on!

A quick question for the turbo guys - I currently use Shell Helix Ultra Pro 5W-30 and although I only did an change a few hundred miles ago i'll be changing it again along with the filter - Is there a better oil for turbo's and also with a turbo and oil cooler what is the rough extra needed?

cheers
Steve

well after a crap summer (apart from 3 weeks in Provence), redundancy from the day job and taking the part time business full time I finally managed half a day at the unit yesterday.
(https://i.imgur.com/KetdNvGl.jpg)

Started stripping and test fitting some of the turbo bits.
(https://i.imgur.com/K8jmbRXl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OLxK1gil.jpg)

The subframe is coming off so I can strengthen it in the middle (centre exhaust runs inbetween the bottom arm mounts). I have whiteline anti roll bars on the way, polybushes are here as are camber bolts. I met up with Steve Norris on the way back from France and picked up a centre brace aswell. Got a new oil filter from Toyota and 5 litres of the Shell Helix (already have a litre) so should be plenty.
(https://i.imgur.com/jdZkoO2l.jpg)

Got a slight dilema as i'm not sure whether to swap the JDM gearbox and kevlar clutch in now or hang on as there's a guy in Birmingham that will do a clutch change for 100 and odd quid labour.
I'm on my own, on the floor and I sort of don't fancy it if i'm honest!!
(https://i.imgur.com/4ZPnL0yl.jpg)

I'm going to make a new rear crash bar that doubles as a mount for the oil cooler and anything else i might need to mount in future.
I'm also thinking about moving the battery to give better airflow into the engine bay but i'll have a better look at that next time.

Sounds like you've had a tough few months... glad to see you've been able to get some time on the car, always good medicine!

Quote from: AdamR28 on October  6, 2020, 09:44Sounds like you've had a tough few months... glad to see you've been able to get some time on the car, always good medicine!

Yeah, it's always good to get some me time in! Hopefully get a day on it over the weekend which should see more progress.
Next plan is to get the subframe strengthened and painted and set about polybushing and painting the arms.

Never done my own polybushing before but ive got a big vice and an plethora of swear words saved up!

Haha, sounds like you have the main 'tool'...

If you have a blowtorch, you can burn the old rubber bushes and centre sleeve out quite successfully like that, then give the outer sleeve a lick with the die grinder to release it from the arm / knuckle.

i'd actually thought about making a "press" for the vice - easy enough for getting the new ones in.

Do you know if the old outer sleeve is steel or alloy? If it's steel I was thinking of pressing the old rubber out and just welding a bit of bar inside and press that out.
If not, die grinder / hacksaw it is!

Normally steel, I've never done an alloy one that's for sure.

Some welding / heating / giving yourself something meatier / easier to press on would work well I reckon!

Getting polybushes in is dead easy yeah, a light squeeze with vice is plenty.

They were my thoughts - getting the press set before the welds cool down should be a billy bonus!

I also thought about using my gear puller but i'll suss it out at weekend!

I watched a vid on getting them in and that looks dead easy

had what I thought was a free day yesterday so to the unit - i'd soaked all of the nuts and bolts last weekend.
Buzz gun out and lower and toe arm bolts buzzed off, subframe bolts also moved fine.

Front trailing arm wouldn't budge on either side, either bolt!! started on the drivers side and removed disc, caliper and dust shield - couldn't get enough leverage on the bolt end so ended up having to try and shift the nut - Teng strongbar with a meter long scaffold bar and it went - same on the front nut so eventually off!

Back to the toe arm and I couldn't split the ball joint - 1st one that's ever beaten me. I have always used a bar to put pressure on the nut and a big hammer but this isn't moving. The father in law has a splitter so onto the next job.

Front trailing arm in the pillar drill, small drill and perforate the rubber in the bush - In the vice with a massive socket on one side and 13mm on the other and wind the vice in - split 1st go. Outer sleeve I thought i'd weld it but i've got a electric saw with metal blade so cut through top and bottom and it knocked out easily! cleaned arm up ready for paint. Didn't know what to expect but it was a really easy job.

Was about to start the other side and got a text. I'd forgotten, I was supposed to pick something up for my sister in the van so had to call it a day!!

Today was more about stripping the turbo car to get to the fuel pump assembly and find out where the return feeds in. Plus a couple of people are wanting parts so got the seats out and ashtray bit!

I'd borrowed the splitter so hammered that on (it was a really tight fit), ratchet on and off we go - god it took some splitting but eventually went!
I'd nipped into the unit a couple of times to pick things up so each time i'd done a coat of primer, then paint so i thought i'd get the first polybush in ( I had some rattle cans left over from touching up the campers bumper so white it went)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZenoSNd.jpg?1)

Top tip - if you're cleaning up old suspension parts you'll notice the weapon of choice at the top of the pic - yep, a BBQ cleaner - scraper, wire brush and other thing on t'other side that does not a lot all in one!!

Back home now as i've a meeting tomorrow which could shape the next few months / years so need to prepare!!

Shiny! Good work.

Hope the meeting today goes as you hope.

meeting was great so it's the big wait now!
Looking forward to getting the rest of them done - quite like the white, might even do the subframe white as well seeing as my cage is white! Bit of a theme and all that!

Quote from: tets on October 25, 2020, 14:57Today was more about stripping the turbo car to get to the fuel pump assembly and find out where the return feeds in. Plus a couple of people are wanting parts so got the seats out and ashtray bit!

I'd borrowed the splitter so hammered that on (it was a really tight fit), ratchet on and off we go - god it took some splitting but eventually went!
I'd nipped into the unit a couple of times to pick things up so each time i'd done a coat of primer, then paint so i thought i'd get the first polybush in ( I had some rattle cans left over from touching up the campers bumper so white it went)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZenoSNd.jpg?1)

Top tip - if you're cleaning up old suspension parts you'll notice the weapon of choice at the top of the pic - yep, a BBQ cleaner - scraper, wire brush and other thing on t'other side that does not a lot all in one!!

Back home now as i've a meeting tomorrow which could shape the next few months / years so need to prepare!!

super pro there is nothing better epic work

Well the meeting in October went well and i'm doing a consultancy until the end of Feb - could go longer and could even end up permanent so all good on that point. Big problem is 12 hours a day out of the house and not much weekend time.
Anyway got a few hours in today

Below is a sort of pictured how to of removing bushes from the old arms ready for paint and polybush if you don't have a press. 10 minutes start to finish for removal - the superpro's also take about 5 minutes to fit. Worst job is getting the arms off - 4 went well - 2 really didn't!

(https://i.imgur.com/JBduOiLl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3MaHJABl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bonFfYGl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YDPSHRvl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1c3GFYol.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eEp8F7Cl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pefupKkl.jpg)
The vice is actually quite easy and not once did it look like jumping out - I'm not recommending this method for obvious reasons but it worked really well for me

Got the subframe off knowing it had a small hole - apart from that is really solid and was going to plate it anyway as the exhaust runs right next to the gearbox mount about 2cm from the subframe - It's getting repaired!

(https://i.imgur.com/J9DKu22l.jpg)

Wasn't going to put the JDM box and new clutch in yet but it's virtually stripped so I might as well have a go - Might try and enlist some help that particular weekend.

Got new discs and Yellow stuff ordered and the Whiteline's turned up so getting there - Not sure when i'll have more free time but today was really encouraging!

(https://i.imgur.com/UTQOfRpl.jpg)

@tets
I'm pleased for you that your meeting and subsequently went well.
iirc I remember seeing  a picture of your BBQ cleaning brush in post #37 but it's disappeared now, so have any pictures you may have posted, with your most recent#41!

Quote from: Joesson on January 17, 2021, 17:17@tets
I'm pleased for you that your meeting and subsequently went well.
iirc I remember seeing  a picture of your BBQ cleaning brush in post #37 but it's disappeared now, so have any pictures you may have posted, with your most recent#41!

thankyou and thats weird as they are still showing for me - unless IMGUR has gone the same way as the others recently!

Quote from: tets on January 17, 2021, 17:44

Quote from: Joesson on January 17, 2021, 17:17@tets
I'm pleased for you that your meeting and subsequently went well.
iirc I remember seeing  a picture of your BBQ cleaning brush in post #37 but it's disappeared now, so have any pictures you may have posted, with your most recent#41!

thankyou and thats weird as they are still showing for me - unless IMGUR has gone the same way as the others recently!

Very strange. I now " can see" that your earlier posts are also missing the photos.
But I can see photos posted today by @Ardent of his thoroughly washed 2!
Some technological problem that I am less than qualified to overcome.

I used the attachments option here. So images are "here" rather than linked to externally.

quick update even though bugger all has happened at the unit due to working all the hours god sends!

Consultancy has been extended so thought i'd invest in some bits.

Paddle clutch kit to go with the JDM box and the offer of labour from Lewis (Roadster Sport) in exchange for the box and diff thats on the car - I have another spare so a no brainer.

New standard discs and yellow stuff pads will be here this week with the clutch.

New subframe courtesy of Dave on here. I was going to repair mine but one toe arm has welded itself to the bush sleeve and needs cutting out. Still pondering whether to paint it white!

Pair of 16" rear wheels so I can try the Extreme VR2 tyres that seem to be winning everything on the hills in the dry, got standard PFL 15's with rainsports for the wet. I do need to pick up another FL rear for the spare. Not sure if i'll need to go 205 front / 225 rear but we'll see later in the year.
Also got a set of 17's which I want to test at some point - many say they ruin the handling but on track bigger wheels must be workable otherwise they wouldn't be used. I'll have have plenty of adjustment to try!

If this work is extended i really think i'm going to try the BC ER's as i'm on standard struts with TTE springs at the minute. I'm still intent on trying the current set up and using the anti roll bars adjustment but don't think it will be stiff enough!

Sure i've missed something but next update will hopefully be more practical

So the clutch and JDM box went on today! Was a bit of a tw@
IMG_1898.jpg

was on the BC website earlier and the ER'S have gone from the listings - It's just BR, RM or DS now.
Pondering on the RM or K-Sports if anybody has any user ratings?

Started getting the back end together today plus stripped most of the turbo bits from the other car. Ordered new gaskets so should have a lot of it on in the next couple of weeks.

Got another couple of hours in today - rechecked all rear suspension and subframe nuts / bolts.

Gaskets arrived so the turbo was checked (a couple of loose bolts) tightened and fitted along with jacket - still unsure about the jacket

Oil drained ready for the new sump and everything sprayed with penetrating fluid!

Until next week....

a bit more progress this weekend. Got more bits on and it's beginning to look like an engine bay again

got a couple of hours in this morning as yesterdays plans were written off. A "quick trip" to the garden centre turned out to be half the day after the M60 was closed for 6 hours!

New brakes had arrived but today was only to get the sump bolts loose and measure up the pipes for the turbo, oil pressure and AFR gauges.

New brakes and super light exhaust below!!

no update for a bit but the sumps on, oil feed and drain sorted, sandwich plate on and measured up for the oil cooler. Oil temp and pressure senders in.
Colder plugs sorted and gear selectors back on and starter motor back on. Just the fuel system to do before start up!

Just ordered a set of Tein Superstreets with electronic damping control on a whim!! we'll see how that goes but it was a price I couldn't pass up. Not sure 4 / 6 springs are stiff enough but i'd say they'll be better than the standard struts with TTE springs!

Back at the unit Sunday.....

Quote from: tets on April 25, 2021, 14:03New brakes and super light exhaust below!!

Erm, that's a caravan.

Quote from: tets on June 10, 2021, 20:08Just ordered a set of Tein Superstreets with electronic damping control on a whim!! we'll see how that goes but it was a price I couldn't pass up. Not sure 4 / 6 springs are stiff enough but i'd say they'll be better than the standard struts with TTE springs!

Back at the unit Sunday.....

I have this setup, and I really rate it.

Are they new or used?
I thought SuperStreet were out of production?

Quote from: Alex Knight on June 10, 2021, 23:38

Quote from: tets on April 25, 2021, 14:03New brakes and super light exhaust below!!

Erm, that's a caravan.

thats really weird - something odd went on when I was uploading them but no idea where they came from - I don't even have a caravan!! haha

Quote from: Alex Knight on June 10, 2021, 23:39

Quote from: tets on June 10, 2021, 20:08Just ordered a set of Tein Superstreets with electronic damping control on a whim!! we'll see how that goes but it was a price I couldn't pass up. Not sure 4 / 6 springs are stiff enough but i'd say they'll be better than the standard struts with TTE springs!

Back at the unit Sunday.....

I have this setup, and I really rate it.

Are they new or used?
I thought SuperStreet were out of production?

They are second hand but look new!! See if this pic works

Quote from: tets on June 11, 2021, 05:43

Quote from: Alex Knight on June 10, 2021, 23:39

Quote from: tets on June 10, 2021, 20:08Just ordered a set of Tein Superstreets with electronic damping control on a whim!! we'll see how that goes but it was a price I couldn't pass up. Not sure 4 / 6 springs are stiff enough but i'd say they'll be better than the standard struts with TTE springs!

Back at the unit Sunday.....

I have this setup, and I really rate it.

Are they new or used?
I thought SuperStreet were out of production?

They are second hand but look new!! See if this pic works

That's a good find!

not really updated as I don't have a lot to update! The jobs gone mad and Autumn being peak season plus black Friday and Christmas i've not had a lot of time!!
However done a few bits!
Bit of cooling / heat shield, rear bar and a couple of new bits!
IMG_2640.jpg
IMG_2613.jpg
IMG_2614.jpg

I like that rear crash bar... will you mount an inter cooler in the other gap? Don't know if it makes more sense to have the air on the left and the oil on the right...

Any plans for a deflector  plate to divert air up to the coolers? Could totally mount some fans on them to pull air through- would look funky from the rear.

the PE kit isn't designed for any cooling but if I do it would be charge cooled so the oil cooler can stay there. Plus i've fitted it so I can cut the vented bits in the bumper so the air's got a clean exit - Depending on whether I can get away with it (MSUK regs wise) i fancy welding some more vents in the lid with a scoop to the air filter and oil cooler from the top.

Once i've got some miles on it no doubt i'll look at it again. I keep thinking of new things as i'm going along!
Big change (albeit so simple) is bending the spare wheel screw, welding it to the crash bar so I can use a nut on it and use it as the exhaust hanger. Been pissed off and spent so much time trying to get exhaust rubbers off but not anymore!!

Well I never realised it's been 2 years!

I ended up working away for a year and then opening a new 250k sq/ft shed and launching Lacoste's first UKDC so literally had the odd Sunday doing a few bits.

So I'm back home and back in the unit on a weekend! My MSUK licence has arrived and I'm entered in the LMDC Speed Championship and ANWCC hillclimb and sprint Championship.

To the car....

I've nearly got the gauges and interior stuff done - just need to cut into the ignition live for the cut off switch - Can anyone confirm this is the black and yellow wire as info is a bit scarce?

Also, I think my oil pressure gauge might be knackered - it's only showing 2v and not lighting up but not sure if it's cause I've not fired the engine!

Next up carpets back in (make it as road car as poss for the regs) and seats etc.

Got some new handbrake cables (same length so assuming aftermarket) but after disconnecting the ones on the car they seem free even though it was dog sh*t when I last drove it. Now I've redone the brakes I might give them another go with the handbrake dance before I change them. I do have the luxury of being able to re position them if needed.

Got the frame made for the tank and battery in the frunk - I only had green paint (no idea why) so green it went! It fits like a glove so next job is mount the fuel pump and filter underneath and fit the tank straps and find or build a battery tray (that battery is only for test as a light one is incoming)
Ended up buying an intercooler which is going where the newly acquired massive hole is under the car - I need to fab a frame to fit it in and do some ducting / gap filling (start of a flat floor)

Got a new set of Rota Slip's with an offset of 28 which should fill the arches and got on (don't laugh) Accelera's driver programme and with the discount a set of 100 tread-ware semi slicks for not much over 200 quid - they may be absolute garbage but on a 1km hill I'm hoping they at least warm up (ish) If not I'll go back to plan A with a proven tyre.

Also got a set of PFL rims with Rainsports for the inevitable wet days!

Got the Tein EDFC wired but it's showing an error on the fronts and doesn't seem to be adjusting - no idea why and it was Sunday afternoon when I found it and was nearly beer o-clock so packed up and went home!

I've probably done more (forgot braided fuel lines) but I'll try and be a bit more up to date this year!

IMG_4777.jpeg
IMG_4779.jpeg
IMG_4782.jpeg
IMG_4780.jpeg
IMG_4783.jpeg

That is an epic update..
do you have edfc 1 or 2 . I can look up the errors if it's 2.

Quote from: jvanzyl on February 29, 2024, 21:07That is an epic update..
do you have edfc 1 or 2 . I can look up the errors if it's 2.

I think it's edfc 1 - the controller is in pic 1. It says 12 on the rears which seems correct and EE on the front which doesn't. I'll check the connectors tomorrow.

One thing to note is when the tank is out the lack of anything joining the floor and rear crossmember is startling - my intercooler brace will join them together (I'll make a brace like thing) but has anybody explored this?

Had another few hours today,

Got the return fuel line in, fuel filter and pump fitted, battery tray base fitted and started the new intercooler pipework

Need to tidy a few bits and space the fuel filter as the line is too tight on the crossmember but another step forward!

IMG_4810.jpeg

IMG_4809.jpeg

had another few hours this weekend which was fiddly and time consuming.

Bled the clutch - don't even attempt it without a compressor and one of those bleed kits! Anyway, I have a pedal
Fastened the ducktail on using the bolts and some big spacers underneath which worked a treat.
Got the bonnet pins drilled and in - horrible job drilling the bonnet wondering if you've measured right but fortunately I had!
Today was the big one - fabbing the frame for the intercooler - my welding isn't what it was so need more practice before I weld it up but it's tacked and fits like a glove - need to duct the air diffuser style but if my thoughts are correct it should work a treat!
Plenty of room for the hot air to escape under the engine.
Any observations / comments welcome and if anyones done it before I'd be really interested to hear the results.

Also got my entry confirmed for Barbon Hillclimb in June so there's a deadline - plus I'm in Monaco for 2 weeks in May for the GP so need the MOT, Dyno and alignment done well before then


IMG_4813.jpeg
IMG_4814.jpeg

@tets said:

Bled the clutch - don't even attempt it without a compressor and one of those bleed kits!

Why this should be the case I do not know but I used the same, low cost item, to single handedly bleed the clutch as I used to bleed the brakes on my 2.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/391971960746

Nice idea to use the space... curious to think about the aerodynamic effect of a void under the car.
I suppose ideally you want the air to rush in and out somehow. Just a thought, but if you moved the intercooler to the middle of the void (looking at it from the side) and then made one of those things that you see on front of the car radiators that would direct/duct air flow through the radiator and then provided a channel for it to exit it might help?

I'm planning on flat flooring the void with the exception of the intercooler where I'll create a "diffuser" style duct with sides (if you get my thinking) that will duct air in and then out round the sump area. I figured if it was further forward the diffuser would have too much of an angle to direct air efficiently.

I'm a bit of an outside the box thinker and if it's a bunch of cr4p I'll charge cool it.
For the sake of 25 quid and a few pipes (and being a tight Yorkshireman) I've got to give it a go.

I've also reached out to my old printing colleagues for used litho printing plates as they are light, aluminium and perfect for a flat floor! We used to use them as trim tabs (filled with expanding foam) on single seaters

Had a few hours again this weekend

Finished the interior with the exception of seats - changed a couple of gauges I wasn't happy with and got the carpet and all the plastics back on - happy with the centre console eventually

Fuel pump and filter fixed properly, wired up and working - at least I can test the fuel fittings for leaks before firing it.

Got a new battery, wasn't bothered what type as I want a lightweight one but this was brand new for 20 odd quid delivered.

Welded up the intercooler frame but not ground the welds or painted it yet - weekend job

Found out why the EDFC was showing an error - d!ckhead here had forgotten to put a fuse in the new fuse box

got a right angle drill chuck thing so I don't have to drop the rad to drill the holes for the tank straps

Feel like I'm on the home straight - brakes, fluids, intercooler and then fire it - then learn how to map an manage blue IMG_4925.jpegIMG_4923.jpeg

Got a few more hours today

Managed to get the battery tray fixed and the tank straps made and bolted down.

Intercooler frame is now painted and intercooler is in place - just need to sort the piping.

Also connected the O2 sensors together - In their infinite wisdom, Power Enterprises put 1 sensor right behind the other which gave some iffy readings on the 2nd. Both sensors are now reading from the 1st.

Car up on 4 stands ready to do the handbrake and bleed the brakes on the next visit plus all the fluids in!

Question now - mapping the e-manage blue - am I best just inputting the injector size and going from there or uploading the Thor map say for example which shouldn't be a million miles away? I have Wideband so I can monitor.

Getting excited now as MOT could be reasonably imminent
IMG_4928.jpeg

Managed a few more jobs today.

Brakes bled (twice to make sure all the old fluid was ejected) and have a lovely pedal.

Did the clutch a while ago with the bleed kit but whilst I had a helper, I tried the old method as a back up. This time the pedal occasionally stays on the floor so somethings not right. I;m going to put the bleed kit on it again tomorrow but any advice welcome. It's a new paddle clutch that an experienced MR2 guy fitted so I hope he's done it right!

Also decided to pipe the turbo without going through the intercooler (for ease) to get the car MOT'd and back on the road. This is the way the PE kit was designed so can't see it being an issue.
Anyway got the pipework fitted and clamped up.

It was also designed to run standard injections and rising rate regulator although I've gone 2ZZ injectors, return rail and the emanage blue to control fuel. Still not sure the best way to map it - do I just add the injector size to a blank map to start with or upload the nearest spec map I can find?
I'm on waste gate spring pressure at around 6 or 7 psi so I'm told by the previous owner.

Also got the fuel lines clipped up, gear oil in and new oil pressure sender unit in (then broke the wire connector on the actual unit so need a new one)

Tomorrows tasks, engine oil, new positive battery connector, fuel in and test the system for leaks, bleed clutch again, front bumper on, crank engine and check for oil leaks (hopefully). If that all works I'll fire it and hopefully everything will work.
After it's seats and harnesses back in, wheels on, spanner check everything and book MOT

Any emanage advice gratefully received.

well today didn't go to plan....

Called for 5 litres of BP Ultimate on the way to the garage and 1st job was test fuel system.

Put a litre in and waited, checked for leaks and ok. Put another litre in and check for leaks and ok.
This wasn't with the pump on, just the gravity that would test the fuel filter and up to the pump.
All ok so drop the rest in and I could smell fuel vapour.

Thought it must be the filter so researched and made a loop system with the filter at neck level.
At this point I noticed a rather large wet patch under the frunk = bugger, leak.
Got under the car and one of the AN fitting on the outlet of the fuel filter was leaking! couldn't get it off still leaking, got a kitchen bowl under it and managed to get the pipe from the tank to the filter off and drained the tank back into the container.

Too much vapour in the air to do anything (or leave the garage for that matter) so doors wide open, clean up operation and do a few trim and cleaning jobs that would be safe until it cleared!

So nothing of any substance achieved apart from finding a leak!

We'll go again next week with new pipework! 

Nice update. Don't forget fuel system will prime upon key insertion (not turning).

Quote from: jvanzyl on April 14, 2024, 20:07Nice update. Don't forget fuel system will prime upon key insertion (not turning).

I have an external inline filter and 255lph external pump that's on a switch but same effect! At least we can check the system which I guess was what yesterday was all about

Decided to re do part of the system - New filter ordered and some more fuel line.

Gone with a proper Sytec filter with 10mm push fit ends - I find the AN fittings great in part but I have steel braided hose from 2 different places and unfortunately the long pipes are not brilliant.
I'll try and get some pics up but the composition of the steel braid on 1 type of hose is great, really stable and clean when you cut it. The fittings go on really well and it they clamp up great.
The other is the opposite plus the braid moves up and down the rubber hose when you work it and it frays a lot easier. I'm going back to jubilee style clamps as I know they seal properly.

I'll revisit at some point and probably replace the long pipes but this will do the job.

We'll retest this weekend and hopefully get a better result!

Quite a good day today - Got the new fuel filter and pipes in - gravity leek test was good so connected the battery and switched the pump on - no leaks on the fuel rail or injectors so I'll take the win!

Got the funnel in to fill the oil, wired it to the brace, started pouring, wire shifted and poured oil everywhere! did it again properly, got approx 4.3 ltrs of oil in (to cater for turbo and oil cooler) and cleaned up best I could.
No leaks so disconnected the coils and gave it a cold crank to move oil round - no leaks so far.

I'm picking up a new to me Sparco seat up in the morning so hopefully in the afternoon I'll get it fired.
Just need to add something to the emanage blue (blank map with injector size or pre existing map) but not sure which!

The new fuel filter is a larger diameter to the old one so had to improvise on the mounting - it works but not ideal! you'll see the pic!

The return fuel rail maybe recognisable as I believe Carolyn made it moons ago!

Also a pic of the loop breather - did a bit of research on this and it makes sense. Pipe above the tank on the exit, loop then the bottom bit below the tank then back to the filter. if I go over (which I have previously) the bottom loop will be above the top of the inverted tank so no spillage! took some thinking about!




IMG_4945.jpegIMG_4938.jpegIMG_4937.jpegIMG_4943.jpegIMG_4944.jpeg

not quite to plan today.

Found a Sparco Rev seat local so went to get that.

Called home to get my old laptop (thought it was win 98) but is windows 7 and won't connect to the emanage!

Got the rear arch liner in, did another crank with the coils disconnected, more leak checks (all good)

Feel like crap, shivering and coughing so went home and cracked a beer!

Hopefully I can beg, steel or borrow a laptop (and hopefully emanage knowledge) and go again next week

emulator or compatibility mode? for win 98

Quote from: tets on April 21, 2024, 18:52not quite to plan today.

Found a Sparco Rev seat local so went to get that.

Called home to get my old laptop (thought it was win 98) but is windows 7 and won't connect to the emanage!

Got the rear arch liner in, did another crank with the coils disconnected, more leak checks (all good)

Feel like crap, shivering and coughing so went home and cracked a beer!

Hopefully I can beg, steel or borrow a laptop (and hopefully emanage knowledge) and go again next week

Sorry to hear you're not well!

Here's a link on how to connect to the Emanage: https://youtu.be/GT4Vc_Wcapc?si=HA6cahIh-4Af_WgE

This is how I connect to mine and I know it works as I have windows 10.

Been a good weekend!!

Got more fuel in, primed the fuel system again and no leaks - can hear the fuel coming back into the tank from the return so all good there.

Got the seats and harnesses in which took ages as I've bolted through the floor with spreader plates which worked really well.

Rear bumper back on, couple of clips to fasten in the arches and an extra strip of heatproof tape to add on the left as it's doing my OCD no good!!

IT at work are sorting me a WIN98 laptop - I tried installing virtual box and WIN98 on an old windows 7 pc and it won't work - I watched the video above but not sure if I'm being technologically retarded so IT to the rescue!

Oh and I ordered a new oil pressure switch and positive battery terminal.

Need to get the semi slicks on the Rota's so I'm on the rain sports on standard rims (wet tyres) for the MOT.

Hopefully next weekend I'll get the MAP on and we'll give it a blast!
 IMG_4948.jpegIMG_4949.jpeg

great day yesterday - all back together

Still struggling getting the EMB to connect to my Win 98 VM so not fired it yet. Currently sat doing software stuff to try make it work and I might even give the Jag a wash in the sun

Hopefully I can make it work tomorrow and also fill the engine mounts with Sikaflex

IMG_4961.jpeg
IMG_4960.jpeg
IMG_4959.jpeg
IMG_4958.jpeg
IMG_4957.jpeg

still can't get the EMB to connect, the IT guy from work Teamviewer'd in today and couldn't sort it - he's gone away to do more research on the VM software
Decided to start a process of elimination as to the non starting. Unplugged the EMB, still won't start.
I still have the 2ZZ injectors in so tomorrow will throw the 1ZZ ones in.
I can hear fuel coming back to the tank from the return so assume I've got fuel.
Threw an old plug in a lead and we have a spark.
Not even attempting so thinking electrical - I've wired the 2 O2 sensors together as per Spyderchat but unplugged them and tried again - should fuel off the MAF if I remember correctly. No change....
I've fitted an FIA master switch which cuts the ignition but thinking I wouldn't have a spark if that was dodgy. checked anyway and it seems fine!

Next step, fit the rising rate fuel regulator as it has a pressure gauge so I can see the fuel pressure (hoping this works when it's not under boost but having never used one before I could be wrong)

To give my brain a rest I set the coilover ride height as best I can prior to the Hunter and went home for a beer

Frustrating day to say the least

I've also transferred my entry for the June Barbon hillclimb to the July one. There is no way I can be ready for June as work commitments are seriously interfering with my home life!

It lives!!

Unplugged the emanage (that's for another day)

I dropped the green injectors in and a rising rate fuel regulator into the return line - still no joy

Then looked at the fuel system - wired the fuel pump up the wrong way round (don't ask)

All back together and fired 1st time! running pig rich and not ticking over right but it lives

today, up early with the plan to remove and clean the PCV and TPS. Removed the turbo piping and re did it on the bench as there was a vacuum leak - couldn't find it but when doing the TPS I noticed the pipe to the PCV was loose - all sorted and it run's wonderfully!

Ran it up to temp, heaters ok, no leaks, running sweet and everything looks good for the MOT


IMG_5139.jpeg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBj8-zuxQB4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfFA9wqY7D4

MOT passed this morning - I might have to rethink the exhaust as it's ASBO loud and pretty sure it won't pass a noise test at scrutineering!
Other than that everything is all good and nice to be out in it after 5 years!

Alignment to sort and I think we're ready for Barbon Hillclimb

One thing to note, oil pressure seems very low at idle when up to temp - what should I be expecting based on peoples experience?

20 psi

Quote from: Carolyn on June 21, 2024, 09:5220 psi

ah ok thank you, that's ok then

With Barbon Hillclimb next weekend and it being too noisy I had to bodge an exhaust up to keep within the 105db limit - 40 quid later (and an old backbox) and it's quiet enough although probably a bit restrictive.
Got the tyres on the rims and on the car so just alignment to have done this week

Spoke to the event Scrutineer and he seemed to think everything will be fine based on the conversation so watch this space.

IMG_5224.jpeg
IMG_5223.jpeg
IMG_5213.jpeg
IMG_5212.jpeg
IMG_5222.jpeg

The weekend was a massive success.
I'd only done about 5 miles in the car in rush hour traffic to the MOT centre and alignment place so had to take a complete guess at settings.
Camber bolts would only give me -0.5 negative on the front with a degree of toe out and then decided on -2.0 degrees at the back with a degree of toe in. Didn't have time to mess further. (I know I have adjustment on the top mounts but I hadn't touched the bolts and didn't want to snap anything)
Ideally I want -2.0 front and -2.5 back but I was treating it as a test - be interested to hear other peoples settings for track
The exhaust was almost standard quite so definitely restrictive but wasn't sure how much as I'd not even had it on boost.
Suspension set on 8 front and 6 back with 28psi front and 32 back on the Accelera 100 TW semi slick.

I'd also not done any competition driving since the 90's and never been up Barbon Hillclimb apart from as a spectator so wasn't expecting much.
Through scrutineering without issue and onto the practice runs.

First run managed a 38 seconds - The Porsche that won the class was at 31
2nd practice I got a 35 but had fuel starvation after the 2 left handers - fuel pick up is front left but I thought I had plenty of fuel in (turns out I need well over half a tank even though it's baffled)
The timed runs I had a high 34 and a low 34 and with the weather holding off they squeezed in a 3rd run.
Managed a 33.3 with the Porsche winning on a 29.something

I reckon I had a couple of seconds in me as I know where I was losing time and with a bit more time with the set up I'd like to think I could be within a second or 2 of the Porsche.

I dropped the tyre pressure for the timed runs as I'm certain I was too high (and still think I can go lower)
Tyres were really very good by the way.

Hoping I can get a late entry for Scammonden a week on Sunday.

Wideband packed up SEN5 on the screen so no idea of mixture and no idea what boost I was at as I never had time to look at the gauges - need to give it a run on the road this weekend and have a look!

Me finish line Barbon.jpeg
IMG_5230.jpeg
IMG_5231.jpeg

Congrats man- sounds like you had a good time!

 :) as above does sound you have come out to play with a good outing and great big smile all day :)  :)
defiantly worth your all your effort 8)  8)

I / it was a lot better out of the box than I expected - big smile on my face all day

Going to sort the camber this weekend and aim for -2 front and -2.5 rear, drop the tyre pressures more (probably 24 front and 26 rear) and try the suspension a bit stiiffer maybe 12 front, 10 rear and the EDFC. Can't remember where I set the whitelines but it felt fine so i'll leave that for the time being.
 
Picking an exhaust up on Saturday to bastardise and I have a sports CAT to weld onto some pipe to try and make it breathe better but doubt it will be this weekend.

Hoping for a late entry to the Scammonden Hillclimb next weekend but i need to speak to them to see if they have any space.

All in all, really really pleased with things ;D

Got the entry to Scammonden last weekend and decided on more negative camber up front with a bit less toe out.
Now at -2 with 0.2 degree toe out. Didn't touch the back
One thing I did was preloade the wastegate properly as I'm not sure it was closing properly, so set correctly and off we went!

Need advise though - when I took the wastegate arm off the flap opened a lot further than the arm will allow when fitted - my brain is telling me this is what controls the boost but all the web seems to throw up when searching wastegate not opening is other issues!

0-64ft is the first split and there were only a couple of cars beating me so really encouraging and I was still on the money through the first couple of bends and then time was lost on the longer hill and last bend.
I am comparing to seasoned competitors in S2000's who I've got to know after the last 2 events.

Had a brilliant day though and borrowed a mates go pro for a few runs

Next up, less rear toe in, got a laptop built to hopefully connect to the emanage, 2ZZ injectors, build a better breathing exhaust and get the Wideband working - also boost gauge is showing weird figures so need to check that
Looking for an entry to the Southport Sprint which is on the Marine Drive prom

IMG_5411.JPG

https://youtu.be/XJv618fuWW0?si=vk8M3HJWJlOJuXu0
https://youtu.be/wrF8n5U2fG4?si=qt6uCPKT0_xWYpWb
https://youtu.be/3TxxRLKvzsY?si=uNdB2Rvjyml0LltR

What is the wastegate rated to and have you tested it? I'm assuming all is dandy and you can see it's opening at the right psi ? In which case no worries?

Quote from: jvanzyl on August  4, 2024, 23:25What is the wastegate rated to and have you tested it? I'm assuming all is dandy and you can see it's opening at the right psi ? In which case no worries?

Looking at the readers ride from when it was first put together (but not run) it was 0.3 bar so 4.odd psi
I'm on the look out for a 0.5 or 0.6 bar spring but want to make sure everything is good before turning it up.
It was the flap opening miles more than the actuator arm lets it when it's connected that got me wondering!

The turbo gauge is doing odd things but the bum feel is about 4psi and it does get hot!
I did melt the rear bumper where the exhaust exits but it is at an odd angle due to bodging a quiet exhaust together to pass noise test

Flaps always capable of opening more than the actuator will push it, its not to worry about unless you have boost creeping at higher revs ?, the simple design and angles involved means the arm will never get it fully opened but if correctly sized it should be enough to bypass gases from the turbine wheel to drop the boost to required level.

I had a battle years ago with my first Mitsi Evo2 which has a TD05 turbo and in totally stock form the wastegate is only just big enough to keep boost to stock level, fit a free flow exhaust and loose the cat and the extra flow meant the boost would creep at higher revs, tried making the arm push flap open further but even wired fully open the boost would still creep right at top of revs, only solution was to enlarge the wastgate passage way and entry into it from the turbo entry, quite a learning curve to make it work but i did in the end.  Teh the engine got forged so i was able to run the higher boost but thats another story :)

Anyhows if your able to control the boost i wouldnt worry, main thing is making sures its held shut to build the boost fast then open enough to  keep boost in the required limits, having the best spring in there to do this without aftermarket boost control is best way, you can only run as low boost as the wastegate will flow, and/or actuator spring etc.

Quote from: thetyrant on August  6, 2024, 10:38Flaps always capable of opening more than the actuator will push it, its not to worry about unless you have boost creeping at higher revs ?, the simple design and angles involved means the arm will never get it fully opened but if correctly sized it should be enough to bypass gases from the turbine wheel to drop the boost to required level.

I had a battle years ago with my first Mitsi Evo2 which has a TD05 turbo and in totally stock form the wastegate is only just big enough to keep boost to stock level, fit a free flow exhaust and loose the cat and the extra flow meant the boost would creep at higher revs, tried making the arm push flap open further but even wired fully open the boost would still creep right at top of revs, only solution was to enlarge the wastgate passage way and entry into it from the turbo entry, quite a learning curve to make it work but i did in the end.  Teh the engine got forged so i was able to run the higher boost but thats another story :)

Anyhows if your able to control the boost i wouldnt worry, main thing is making sures its held shut to build the boost fast then open enough to  keep boost in the required limits, having the best spring in there to do this without aftermarket boost control is best way, you can only run as low boost as the wastegate will flow, and/or actuator spring etc.

That's great news thanks and I was sort of thinking that was the case but having never messed with turbo's apart from my old Integrale (and I tried to avoid messing with that) I'm lacking a bit of knowledge with them.
I'll get a 0.5 or 0.6 bar sprint although I can only find the Kinugawa springs in Taiwan at the minute!!

As I said, the boost gauge doesn't appear to be giving correct readings but it feels really smooth and I found myself changing up between 6 & 6500 rpm as it was running out of steam.
It's a really small PE turbo from years ago but spools up from the off which is what I wanted.

All in all I'm well chuffed out of the box and when I've got a more free flowing exhaust and either the emanage or apex (which I just bought) running with bigger injectors I think we'll be on the money!

Next up, Southport Revival Sprint with a bit of luck!

Exhaust backpressure is absolutely crucial when it comes to boost control.

I learned this in my ST205, when I had the centre silencer taken out.
I had a 0.7 bar wastegate spring, but couldn't keep the boost below 1.5 bar due to boost creep.

I ended up putting the silencer back in.

Quote from: Alex Knight on August  6, 2024, 20:53Exhaust backpressure is absolutely crucial when it comes to boost control.

I learned this in my ST205, when I had the centre silencer taken out.
I had a 0.7 bar wastegate spring, but couldn't keep the boost below 1.5 bar due to boost creep.

I ended up putting the silencer back in.

Yes the Celica's have the same issue as the old Evos in this regards must of been a thing of the era maybe, ive had 2 x ST185 GT4's and they are terrible for boost creep as well if stock cat is removed or any other flow mods, heard the 205 was same as well.

got me thinking now, I was planning on ditching the standard CAT and home brew exhaust which is standard diameter but with a smaller lighter silencer (very quiet). I have a 200 CEL cat that I was going use with a bigger bore pipe and silencer.
May just free up the exhaust side and leave the cat alone!

Got the entry for Southport sprint which will be no real driver test but ramming it along a public road (Marine Drive) at 100+ mph really appeals.
Also ordered a 7psi waste gate spring from Taiwan as I'm at 4psi currently.
Got the laptop and lead for the Emanage sorted but an Apexi PFC came along at a price acceptable to a Yorkshireman so bought it!
Need to find someone to map either
Then to decide on the exhaust option

Started to look at the Wideband this morning - heard reports the the gauges can be a dodgy as the sensors.
The AEM has SEN5 error whether its plugged in or not - it seemed fine before I first fired the engine.
Hooked up a Barbarian one I have and it seems fine although I couldn't start it as I'm in the middle of piping the intercooler and a silicone bend short!

Now to oil - been using 5w30 Shell Helix and after 2 hillclimbs it's getting changed.
Oil pressure was 3/4 of naf all at idle so definitely going up a notch. Was looking for Valvoline racing oil as I used to use it in the rally cars and looking at 5w40. It;s only available in 5w50 or 60 by the looks of it - seems a bit thick for short hillclimbs so looking for recommendations for a 5w40.

Ordered various 2.5" exhaust bends and a silencer as the standard bore one I made up in a rush is too restrictive especially as the 7.odd psi waste gate spring arrived.

Next up ECU = IT geek at work found an old XP laptop and made up a new lead for the emanage but the comms port and lead were different fittings so that's gone on hold! I know a guy that can tune it but no  connection means no go!

I bought a couple of Apexi PFC's, one with hand controller but no datalogit or Hako so may need to speed this route up - if I can find a tuner to get me a map on I'm going this route - Southport sprint is Sept 14th so need to be quick!

If I run out of time it's going out as it is with 4psi on standard injectors, ECU and FPR

Where are you based in Yorkshire? Huddersfield here.

from Yorkshire but live in Manchester - not far at all really!!
If you have time, I know you said you thinking of doing stuff like this so no problem at all covering your time!

Silicone joint and exhaust parts have arrived - I'm after a decat to weld a 200cel cat in, but I think I'm going to cut my complete asbo exhaust up (as opposed to sell it to a lunatic) and weld the new bits to the end of the 200cel on that!
Shame but I'm running out of time again and next Saturday we're off to an indy tribute festival hosted by Bez and Clint Boon at a cricket club so I won't be doing much next weekend!
Not fitting the new spring until I can get a tune on one of the ECU's but hopefully I can diagnose the Wideband this weekend so at least ill know how it's running.
Worst case, we run it, blow it and fit the spare engine over winter!

IMG_5414.jpegIMG_1979.JPG

Looks like it should work!
IMG_5415.jpeg

Really productive day so far!
Finished the intercooler piping and tested the wideband - it was the sensor! Was about buy one and remembered I'd had one supplied with wrong connector - chopped wires, connected plug off the knackered one and hey presto, it works
Onto the exhaust parts and some chopping and tacking and fab on the parts car - pretty pleased with it although it will exit a bit higher through the crash bar
IMG_5416.jpeg
IMG_5417.jpeg
IMG_5418.jpeg

Managed to get an FC HAKO so I'll be good to go with the Apexi when it arrives.

Also took a punt on some 440cc VXR injectors on eBay at £11.88 for a set of 4 brand spank. God knows if they'll be any good as they will be Chinese copies! I have some 2ZZ ones if they're crap!

Quote from: tets on September  4, 2024, 17:58Managed to get an FC HAKO so I'll be good to go with the Apexi when it arrives.

Also took a punt on some 440cc VXR injectors on eBay at £11.88 for a set of 4 brand spank. God knows if they'll be any good as they will be Chinese copies! I have some 2ZZ ones if they're crap!

Please don't do it.
You may as well set fire to a tenner (and potentially your engine).

Purchasing cheap shit like this just perpetuates this insidious practice of selling cheap, sub-standard or just plain dangerous parts.

You're better than that. Do the right thing.

As above dont waste your time with the 11 quid injectors!  if they fail at full chat could destroy the engine going lean,  or fill it with fuel!.

I bought new genuine VXR injectors for around £100 if i remember right, not worth the risk or gambling with used ones especially on a turbo car.

you've got my attention chaps - I'll stick with the 2ZZ ones

Was a whim but I'm taking notice!

not sure I've got time to install the apexi - really want to as there's a Porsche in my class for the Sprint next weekend.
4psi isn't going to cut it but airing on the safe side, I don't want to move to 7.5psi with not enough time to check and double check the map!
I've upped the starting fuel pressure on the regulator to 50psi and finished the exhaust - proper pleased with how it's gone!
IMG_5465.jpeg
IMG_5464.jpeg

What a day at Southport - new exhaust worked a treat ending with a class win (against a Boxster) and 9th overall but more notably I bet 2 Lotus Elise and a GR Yaris

Can't emphasise how good a day this was, bit slow starting due to the road closures being set up etc but fantastic spectacle for the spectators.
I forgot to press start on my final and quickest run but I was pushing. 2nd fastest run below along with a start line vid.
Can't wait for next year with more ponies!

https://youtu.be/syEIDoyn4oo
https://youtu.be/q5L-XCJcxCM

just incase anybody wants to have a look at the variation of cars and results
  Aintree CC_Southport_Sprint_14-09-24.pdf

Quote from: tets on September 17, 2024, 05:24just incase anybody wants to have a look at the variation of cars and results
  Aintree CC_Southport_Sprint_14-09-24.pdf

Nicely done  ;D

Had a look at some of the entrants. I had to look up the Dax Rush Quadra. Interesting car & wondering what 5ltr monstrosity he had in that.  ???  Similarly a couple of special sounding MGs that were quicker too.

Quote from: cptspaulding on September 17, 2024, 06:41Nicely done  ;D

Had a look at some of the entrants. I had to look up the Dax Rush Quadra. Interesting car & wondering what 5ltr monstrosity he had in that.  ???  Similarly a couple of special sounding MGs that were quicker too.

I was next to the Dax in the paddock, really nice bloke!
It's a 5ltr full race spec Rover V8 running a cosworth 4WD transmission.
Fastest thing I've ever seen off the line
Some of the MG's were super truck but in the other paddock so didn't get chance to snoop round

bit of a report here - I appear at 8 mins 40 ish but good footage of the cars - I appear to be smoking a tad!
https://youtu.be/IUG7mbomk5I?si=Nok2oqWY7vWDukPJ

Hey that's brilliant!
Somebody needs to get the camera guy a tripod, but that looked great!

Quote from: jvanzyl on September 23, 2024, 20:38Hey that's brilliant!
Somebody needs to get the camera guy a tripod, but that looked great!

it was great and I'll sign up next year - they are planning a 2 day event

On another note, the blue smoke and llow oil pressure on idle when warm leads me to think I need the spare engine in! I was hoping this one would last longer so I could build the spare engine!
Looking again, on the way out it looks ok but coming back I'm braking from full chat at 90mph and it's blowing smoke and then on acceleration - could it be unburnt fuel? looks a bit blue though!

I may need to swap and rebuild this one with new pistons, rods and bearings (assuming the crank and bores are still ok)

Jobs for winter are swirl pot, flat floor, lose more weight (me and the car), up the boost, injectors and map the Apexi - probably swap the engine and move the oil cooler!
More will come up I'm sure
Also, I've been told I need to tile the new kitchen, install the up and down lights and build an undercover outdoor kitchen / dining area
And I need to refurb my trailer and tutty the camper up

Works getting in the way of fun nowadays!

Currently on holiday in the South of France which is usually dangerous I start buying stuff
Already got a new low entry trolley jack on it's way

New PCV valve has arrived so need to work out whether to run it into the inlet, into a catch can or into a catch can then into the inlet!
Also weighing up 2mm Alloy or 1mm galvanised steel for the flat floor and ducting to the intercooler

Think i'm going to run the Apexi for a bit as RRR is miles away and after working in Corby for a year, I never want to have to do that drive again, especially with the trailer on!

Also, going to have a massive clear out when I get back as i've accumulated loads of stuff I don't need anymore, exhaists, rims etc and strip the parts car to free up space in the garage - if there's a car sized hole something might come up to fill it!
Also need the engine and box out to start on those
Plus any extra cash will self fund rods and pistons without the Mrs finding out

got a couple of hours in today

New PCV valve fitted along with the 2ZZ injectors.
Also fitted the 0.5 bar waste gate spring and new diaphragm
 
Power FC installed and connected to the laptop so at least that works! Got the Win XP laptop I bought for the emanage which fired up FC Edit straight away.
Didn't mess any further as I'd forgotten my reading glasses!

Got the brakes off the parts car as a start for dropping the engine and box - what an absolute tw@ they were!
Came home for a beer....

must have forgotten to put these up from Southport!

Image 2.jpg
Image 3.jpg
Image 4.jpg

well back in the unit getting ready for the season - been really busy / holidaying over winter so not touched it!
I think the 1st event is going to be Barbon in Mid June although there is a Scammonden towards the end of May which I may enter as a test as there will be loads of runs

Dropped the oil and filter ready for a season with Fuchs Titan Race oil - was using 5w30 Shell Helix but gone 5w40 with the Fuchs
Getting the oil filter off was a bit more difficult with the intercooler piping being right under it
IMG_5977.jpeg

Got a compression tester so I can see how it's holding up as I'm still not convinced the blue smoke was just the PCV valve
Still pondering a catch can and setting the breathing up like the SP set up to see if it helps

Had another few hours in the unit
When I fitted the oil cooler the exhaust wasn't where it is now and although I'd fitted a heat shield I wasn't happy with it - Had an epiphany whilst looking at some boiler pipe and thought "that'll do"
Now I have a direct cold feed straight onto it

88AB07C2-E79A-4105-8235-7BBFA46AC533.jpg
IMG_5994.jpeg
IMG_5990.jpeg

Got the driveshaft out of the spare car and what I was told was a JDM box with LSD turns out not to have the diff so I'll keep this with a view of getting hold of a proper quaife one and possibly uprated 3rd and 4th gears

IMG_6016.jpeg

Got the machine polisher out and started giving the paint some attention - only managed the wings, bonnet and bumper but pleased with the result

IMG_6011.jpeg

Couple of hours this morning so managed to get the breathing sorted

PCV to catch can, to one way valve and to the inlet
Plugged the throttle body pipe and vented the back of the rocker cover (old terms) to the intake

I think that's how the turbo's were done.
IMG_6032.jpeg

Also looking back over old posts regarding baffled sumps and found Carolyns version which I like plus the pick up pipe spacer.
Question - would it be better having the middle of the baffle on a hinge?

oil pick up spacer.jpg
baffled sump.jpg

And it's back out of the workshop for logging and mapping after a machine polish and hand coat of soft 99
Bit rich in places (and lean in a couple of cells at the bottom end) but dialling it in it and knock looks ok
Driving lovely and smoothly with 8psi, 2ZZ injectors and the PFC as opposed to 4psi last season on the standard ECU
And some wonderful wastegate flutter 😁

Also got the flat floor done at the back to cover the big gap where the fuel tank was (either side of the intercooler) but didn't take a pic as I was done laying on my back!

IMG_6049.jpeg
IMG_6048.jpeg
IMG_6047.jpg

Had a bit more time logging / messing yesterday afternoon

Looking at injector duty, knock and air temp

What is impressing me most is the air temp using the intercooler in the gap where the tank used to be

Ambient temps were 19 / 20 degrees and tootling in the village it was reading upto 28 but when I got the speed up it dropped to 24 degrees 
Max average knock is 17 with max peak at 20 so happy with that for the time being
Injector duty maxed at 76% at WOT so I can also cope with that.

Need to keep logging and checking but first impressions are really encouraging

Oh and **ck me it's quick!

IMG_6056.jpeg
IMG_6055.jpeg
IMG_6051 Large.jpeg
IMG_6054 Large.jpeg

Just put my entry in for the June 14th Barbon Hillclimb.
It's near Kirkby Lonsdale in North Yorkshire if anybody fancies a day out!

Been mapping / logging again today and it's getting there - a bit on the safe side but better that than the other way!
Also started an online training course with Garrett Turbo's - the exams are a bit easy but got levels 1 & 2 done today - pretty informative so far!

Quote from: tets on May 19, 2025, 18:46Just put my entry in for the June 14th Barbon Hillclimb.
It's near Kirkby Lonsdale in North Yorkshire if anybody fancies a day out!

Been mapping / logging again today and it's getting there - a bit on the safe side but better that than the other way!
Also started an online training course with Garrett Turbo's - the exams are a bit easy but got levels 1 & 2 done today - pretty informative so far!

Might pop along if weather is good, used to go every year but havent been for awhile, will come say hello if i do :D

Quote from: thetyrant on May 20, 2025, 12:23Might pop along if weather is good, used to go every year but havent been for awhile, will come say hello if i do :D

It was great last year in July! I didn't do the June but apparently the weather was awful and a complete wash out!
Be good to meet you if you're about ;D

Got a bit more time today - front camber adjusted to around -3.75 (with my dodgy Chinese camber gauge) and the back at -3. Need an alignment before Barbon as I'd had the rear toe over exaggerated in for the really tight and twisty Scammonden last year. Aim was to get it turning in quickly which worked great - Barbon is fast so dropping it to a "tad" of toe in rear with the front a "tad" of toe out.

Bought a couple of new handbrake cables a couple of years ago, but when I refurbed the callipers the cables were moving freely (handbrake was crap) so been oiling and moving them back and forth. These cables were on the car when we bought it 10 years ago. Did the adjustments today and I have a fantastic handbrake at 3 notches on full.

Also bought some of Dev's door bushings a few years ago and forgotten I had them - came across them earlier so they got fitted and waxed!

Was hoping to get the aux belt changed but I'd left my 1/2" 19mm socket in the camper so that's for another day!

More mapping tomorrow and Saturday as I'd done several 2nd, 3rd and the odd 4th gear pulls with encouraging results and then did a full 2nd, 3rd, 4th and a 5th gear pull and knock went bonkers on the 5th gear pull. Not sure why so need to figure that out (I'd had a single spike but thought that must have been false knock) but then everything went tits at the end. The log is below.
I've got a helper tomorrow so we'll log each gear seperately and see where we go - max boost I'm seeing is 7psi on waste gate pressure with no creep

M602_run.png

Had a great day yesterday and the weather was a lot better than the forecast - only light rain here and there

Was expecting to get well beaten by the 2 guys sharing the 500bhp Cayman GTS Turbo and 1 of them did but I was leading the other guy up until the last couple of runs - I had chance to get him on the last run but too sideways out of the hairpin cost me. I did beat the 3.2 Boxster though
Also beat the S2 Elise, the GR Yaris and several Lotus 7 derivatives
Brilliant day and looking forward to the July event

https://youtu.be/qNVr8IcK06M
https://youtu.be/unVtLK6uq8g

amd a few pics of the day!
Image 39.jpg
Image 40.jpg
Image 38.jpg
Image 37.jpg
Image 36.jpg

and more
Image 35.jpg
Image 34.jpg
Image 33.jpg
Image 32.jpg
Image 31.jpg

and more
Image 18.jpg
Image 19.jpg
Image 20.jpg
Image 21.jpg
Image 29.jpg

Sounds like a good day well done  :) , weather was awful with me and forecast looked bad down there so never made the trip down, wish i had not but glad you had fun :D

Quote from: thetyrant on June 16, 2025, 09:01Sounds like a good day well done  :) , weather was awful with me and forecast looked bad down there so never made the trip down, wish i had not but glad you had fun :D

The weather was a surprise, just a light shower in the morning and 15 minutes over lunch. The sun even came out to dry the track after lunch!
Cracking day and the car ran great - I had retarded the timing around 6k due to knock spikes when logging and the map is a bit conservative - I've got time to alter it to hopefully give me a few more horses before the July Barbon.

Was really pleased to beat the S2 Elise as it looked a proper spec thing
Ended up 20th overall which was ok although as I was running in the top 15 for most of the day and getting quicker on each run (except putting a wheel on the grass on the last run)

Wow looking at the car park in background lots stayed away! i remember going many years ago and that field in bottom was full and overspilled into another  :o

Quote from: thetyrant on June 16, 2025, 14:40Wow looking at the car park in background lots stayed away! i remember going many years ago and that field in bottom was full and overspilled into another  :o

Yeah there were less than usual - they reckon about 200 all told

Just looked at the entry for the July 19th event again at Barbon - looks I'll be up against a Cayman 987S 3.4, an Audi TTRS, and 911 3.8 (think it might be a 996 GT3), MX5 Turbo and a Boxster S although the last 2 have a weird class against them so think they might be entered into 2 championships!

I need to do more mapping to try and squeeze a bit more out of it - going to see if there is anymore weight I can lose (from the car) and try it with just 1mm toe out F and 1mm toe in R
May also try the front anti roll bar on full stiff and soften the rear as it was a bit tail happy out of the hairpin! Might dig in a bit better.
I can also mess with the rebound on the EDFC but I've felt quite confident and don't want to mess up the balance, just want to go quicker (which might be a me thing)  ;D

Any advise from previous messers is greatly appreciated

EDIT: I think there is also an M3 in the weird class aswell! There are also a couple of other normally aspirated MR2 Roadsters in the entry

When I was sprinting mine I took rear arb off like many of championship cars, hugely improves rear traction allowing weight to transfer, I ran front whiteline full stiff with koni sports and tein springs, was a very predictable setup.

Many people go too stiff as they wrongly think it's what a track car should be, with sticky hot tyres maybe but short sprint events you need compliance.

Quote from: thetyrant on June 20, 2025, 18:27When I was sprinting mine I took rear arb off like many of championship cars, hugely improves rear traction allowing weight to transfer, I ran front whiteline full stiff with koni sports and tein springs, was a very predictable setup.

Many people go too stiff as they wrongly think it's what a track car should be, with sticky hot tyres maybe but short sprint events you need compliance.

With you there - I was running 10F and 8R on the EDFC which is just over half but it gives me confidence - I can handle the arse end moving around but feel it's got more in it
I'll stiffen the front ARB, soften the back ARB as above but keep it on for the time being, but drop the rebound even more, maybe try 16F 4R for 1st practice and see how it feels.
Obviously I'll take it for a run out but Trafford Park / Eccles isn't really going to cut it for testing ;D

Then there's tyre pressures - I was running 24F and 27R so I've got the option to drop them a couple of Psi as they are stiff sidewalls (Accelera 351 Sport Xtra)

Quick test I did between runs before removing was just take 1 rear drop link end off which renders bar inactive quickly and easily, found it much easier to stop over rotating after that, I ran stock bar at end as a compromise because i was doing trackdays as well.

Quote from: thetyrant on June 20, 2025, 21:42Quick test I did between runs before removing was just take 1 rear drop link end off which renders bar inactive quickly and easily, found it much easier to stop over rotating after that, I ran stock bar at end as a compromise because i was doing trackdays as well.

Good plan - I'll bear that in mind, cheers

got it in the air today to soften the rear anti roll bar - front was already on full stiff

Had a big problem I didn't't know about at Barbon. When I'd done the handbrake I checked and it seemed fine but today I noticed the insides of the rear wheels were black with brake dust and tried spinning the wheels. The rear brakes had been binding badly!
Now backed off and spinning nicely and that could be the second I was chasing!

Got the MOT on Friday and apart from wiring a new horn up I'm pretty confident it will go through without issue

Got the car on 4 bits of worktop that line up perfectly with a spirit level so alignment next - 1mm toe out front, 1mm toe in rear and as much camber as I can get all round!!

More mapping Friday and next week to get some more ponies out of it and speakers coming out of the doors to compensate for my diet!

Put my July 19th entry in to Barbon today so again, if anyone fancies a day out I'll be there! 

Here's a link to the entry so far although there will be more late entries
A supercharged 5ltr Jag F-Type has entered in my class now aswell - Some cracking cars entered and I'm really looking forward to it - praying for a dry day!

Barbon Entry (https://www.rallies.info/webentry/2025/barbonjuly/entries.php?type=u)

This is something I'd like to get into.

Are there any links to regs etc?

MSUK NCR's (https://motorsportuk.s3.eu-west-2.amazonaws.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/11/Motorsport-UK_NCR-2025_v9_240325.pdf)
Getting started (https://www.hillclimbandsprint.co.uk/allabout.asp)

These are the MSUK regs mate and a getting started page

Biggest problem you'd have is the original engine and gearbox have to be used in the road going classes so you'd jump to sports libre which is a whole new ball game, especially with the licence. In road going I use the RS Interclub but in libre the max capacity is something like 1500cc with a turbo so you would need a race licence!

Give me a shout if you want a chat (or I'm only probably 25 mins from you)!

MOT pass today - had to bodge the horn as mine went tits on the steering wheel!
MOT map uploaded and the handbrake working properly and we have no advisories and another 12 months

I'm looking to buy parts for a few mods over winter - smaller tank and a swirl pot (already have the swirl pot) and a lift pump
Full flat floor is still on agenda and some lighter seats and 5 / 6pt harnesses as I'm on 4pt's at the minute and want to shed more weight

I started a spreadsheet of what I've got in the car which is around 6k ( I will have missed things so add a grand 7k) - if I take off bits I've sold I'm around 5.5k which I think is pretty damn good for how much fun it is and how competitive it can be against a lot of way more expensive machinery

and the interior needs a good clean!!
IMG_6139.jpeg
IMG_6140.jpeg

 8) keep up the good work and as for the fun this 2 brings you  its all worth it 8)  8)
enjoy the mot pass feeling now :)  :)

Quote from: puma2 on June 28, 2025, 13:058) keep up the good work and as for the fun this 2 brings you  its all worth it 8)  8)
enjoy the mot pass feeling now :)  :)

Cheers, this is a lot more fun than I'd ever imagined!
Both modifying and driving it and then realising it's cost me less than the wheels on the Cayman that beat me last time out  ;D

A good day at Barbon Hillclimb but not the fastest due changeable weather and being up against some really quick motors
Ended 4th in class (from 6) and 22nd overall (from 73) Beaten by 2 guys sharing the silver Cayman GTS Turbo and the 4WD TTRS but I did get the better of the other Cayman and the F-Type
Only 1 dry ish run and I cocked the hairpin up (with photographic and video evidence)
Pics and vids of the weekend and my fellow class competitors (+ another MR2 driven by Noor Ali)

IMG_7075.jpeg
me4.jpg
me5.jpg
IMG_7073.jpeg
Cayman 2.5T.jpg

Aufi TTRS.jpg
Cayman 3.4.jpg
Noor Ali.jpg
me3.jpg
IMG_6209.jpeg

and here are a couple of in cars and me cocking the hairpin up

https://youtu.be/LcdeMFYpu-I
https://youtube.com/shorts/7_LQlysIkDQ?feature=share

just seen the run times and I was quickest on the wet runs, unfortunately cocked the only dry run up  ;D

Well played.

So this thread is making me wonder if I could ever try this out.. it's very inspiring.

Having read the links that you have previously posted I would be in the road going class - it didn't seem to specify things like a roll cage, just the ignition turn off thing and your stickers/numbers really?

Very cool to watch and observe! Are there any events that you're taking part in further down south? Would be cool to get a bunch of us together to come cheer you on.

Quote from: jvanzyl on July 20, 2025, 22:59So this thread is making me wonder if I could ever try this out.. it's very inspiring.

Having read the links that you have previously posted I would be in the road going class - it didn't seem to specify things like a roll cage, just the ignition turn off thing and your stickers/numbers really?

Very cool to watch and observe! Are there any events that you're taking part in further down south? Would be cool to get a bunch of us together to come cheer you on.

I'm going to do a "how to get into hillclimbing" YouTube as I'm getting asked by more and more people and although the regs are quite simple, the MSUK book is so complicated and a lot of the other info is years old!
Main things are original engine and box, silhouette of the car must be as it left the factory/ dealer and the interior must be as close to standard as poss (you can remove things to fit safety products like cage, seats, harnesses etc but you can run with a completely standard interior with normal seat belts - yellow tape round the earth lead, ignition sticker, correct overalls, gloves and helmet, RS Interclub licence and you're good to go!

I wasn't planning on venturing South this season but next year I will - I need to make my baffled sump first as a lot of the sprint venue's have long right hand bends - I'll have a gated sump made in the next few weeks and tested at Aintree which has the fastest longest right hand bend on the circuit up here. If it works I may do a run on them as I reckon I can get them made and posted for less than £150 which is considerably cheaper than the alternatives

There were 2 other standard MR2's running at Barbon and there is a class for completely standard cars with only factory / dealer options allowed - real low budget class which is competitive!! 

I'm really enjoying it John, so well worth doing

Quote from: tets on July 21, 2025, 06:56I'm going to do a "how to get into hillclimbing" YouTube as I'm getting asked by more and more people and although the regs are quite simple, the MSUK book is so complicated and a lot of the other info is years old!
Main things are original engine and box, silhouette of the car must be as it left the factory/ dealer and the interior must be as close to standard as poss (you can remove things to fit safety products like cage, seats, harnesses etc but you can run with a completely standard interior with normal seat belts - yellow tape round the earth lead, ignition sticker, correct overalls, gloves and helmet, RS Interclub licence and you're good to go!

I wasn't planning on venturing South this season but next year I will - I need to make my baffled sump first as a lot of the sprint venue's have long right hand bends - I'll have a gated sump made in the next few weeks and tested at Aintree which has the fastest longest right hand bend on the circuit up here. If it works I may do a run on them as I reckon I can get them made and posted for less than £150 which is considerably cheaper than the alternatives

There were 2 other standard MR2's running at Barbon and there is a class for completely standard cars with only factory / dealer options allowed - real low budget class which is competitive!! 

I'm really enjoying it John, so well worth doing

Deffo will watch a YouTube on how to get into it. 

I'm assuming/hoping the modified sump will have an oil return? :-)

I do have one request for the old YouTube videos. Can you mount the camera slightly lower or slightly too the left? The rear view mirror is kind of in the way  ;)

Quote from: jvanzyl on July 21, 2025, 08:04Deffo will watch a YouTube on how to get into it. 

I'm assuming/hoping the modified sump will have an oil return? :-)

I do have one request for the old YouTube videos. Can you mount the camera slightly lower or slightly too the left? The rear view mirror is kind of in the way  ;)

Can come with or without - no drama adding one!

Yeah, I get you. I borrowed a mount from a mate which was for his bike but I do prefer the in car mount as opposed to the windscreen mount - I can look back at the gauges as well which was the main reason for having it there at the time!

Great pic that's just appeared - Lifting a wheel with the car cornering almost flat - pleased with the set up with the back softer and the front on full stiff

Image.jpg

Starting the affordable baffled sump!!
Having decided 600 - 800 quid for a baffled sump was bonkers I'm making my own!

https://youtu.be/OxmpNpTlHWk

mere of a day today!!
Got the car out to do some mapping and couldn't connect the laptop to the Apexi PFC and still can't, need to have a closer look at the cable as the usb end seems a bit iffy so a job for tomorrow!
My father in law wanted to have a look so fired it up for him and thought the exhaust sounded like it was blowing - sure enough I seem to have either blown a flexi (although they look really good) or blown the gasket between manifold and Cat so exhaust off next week!!
Southport is 13th Sept and I wanted to try get the baffled sump done and do an Aintree but we'll have to see how things go!
Got the parts car stripped and the alloy mount on the steering rack had snapped - pretty common fault apparently and you can't easily check which is worrying!!
Was hoping to keep the shell and do something daft with it but the more I've taken off, the worse it is so unfortunately it's scrap!! Had a Hyabusa turbo in my brain but that's for another day!!

Got the baffled sump made and ready for bench testing with a vid of course!
https://youtu.be/bqlqUlE9EiM

Hopefully I'll get time to look at the ECU cable and exhaust before weekend!

9AA161EE-5163-4AFF-830D-336D5C3F4C9D.jpg

Southport here we come! Praying for dry weather tomorrow!!

Quote from: tets on September 12, 2025, 14:049AA161EE-5163-4AFF-830D-336D5C3F4C9D.jpg

Southport here we come! Praying for dry weather tomorrow!!

Good luck :-)   keep an eye out for my boss in his battered old blue Aston martin DB2, doesnt look much but if engine is running right its pretty rapid for what it is.

Quote from: thetyrant on September 12, 2025, 14:08Good luck :-)   keep an eye out for my boss in his battered old blue Aston martin DB2, doesnt look much but if engine is running right its pretty rapid for what it is.

cheers mate, I'm guessing that is Peter Watts - I'm running directly behind him and probably next to him in the paddock  ;D 

Quote from: tets on September 12, 2025, 14:10cheers mate, I'm guessing that is Peter Watts - I'm running directly behind him and probably next to him in the paddock  ;D 

No its Tim Stamper not sure if he has been at same event as you before i cant remember.

Quote from: thetyrant on September 12, 2025, 15:21No its Tim Stamper not sure if he has been at same event as you before i cant remember.

Ah yes, he's further down the order - who'd have thought 2 Aston Martin DB2/4's running
Not sure tbh, but my memory is that of an 80 year old these days  ;D  ;D 

Quote from: tets on September 12, 2025, 17:13Ah yes, he's further down the order - who'd have thought 2 Aston Martin DB2/4's running
Not sure tbh, but my memory is that of an 80 year old these days  ;D  ;D 

!!!

A really not very well made video about getting ready for Southport Sprint and then Raceday - It's only 11 minutes so please click subscribe and like as I'm trying to get the channel going - even if you aren't interested, please leave it on while you're doing something else to get my watch hours up 😁😁
https://youtu.be/eJD9FiBkpOc

Got round to making and bench testing the baffled sump!
I think I might have knackered the engine as my oil pressure is now hovering between 0 and 10psi on tickover after a run!
It wasn't great last year but really bad now!
I'll consider my options (including rods and pistons) over autumn / winter as I really want 300bhp
Anyway, looks like the sump is going to work great!
https://youtu.be/Cp-vj1TBQsY