Belle passed MoT but as expected she got an observation about the front discs. They are within margins but...
Had a look earlier already and although I would lóve cross drilled ones, those are a NoNO here so a no go.
Plenty of very affordable discs to choose from, so no question there BUT, yes, you saw it coming; is there any lightweight alternative?
No idea about lightweight but always found drilled and or grooved discs to be noisy wear the pads more and just no noticeable difference on roads at least.
Quote from: 1979scotte on October 16, 2019, 09:19No idea about lightweight but always found drilled and or grooved discs to be noisy wear the pads more and just no noticeable difference on roads at least.
Yes, they are noisy and not approved here anyway so flats it is.
Any suggestion? I do like a bit of quality for the brake discs ;-)
I assume ceramic would be light weight but heavy on the wallet. Probably don't make them to fit a 2.
Quote from: H1GRM on October 16, 2019, 10:38I assume ceramic would be light weight but heavy on the wallet. Probably don't make them to fit a 2.
Ceramics are alumium alloy matrix. Véry cool, even literally, tech but untill it get developed ánd used for mass production it´s too expensive indeed.
Meanwhile found that I cán use cross drilled íf TüV docs are provided by the manufacturer.
It´s a motorcycle days (read decennia) thing that I automatically desire fully floating, drilled ones but that is not going to happen so that leaves cross drilled only. Not sure I want them on the Spyder.
Want vs need.
You certainly don't need. Especially as you have less to stop than most.
I got the Borg & Beck ones, mainly for the 'bec-tec' coating. Hasn't stopped the usual rust on the side, you may have better results in sunnier climes.
Quote from: Ardent on October 16, 2019, 12:23Especially as you have less to stop than most.
Definitely.
Will try weigh next week.
Thinking of replacing all four and the pads.
The logis is that,
better to change pads too
even though the rears don´t wobble, they have done the same mileage
and a set is just a bit more discounted.
A complete set of Textar is 200€ incl. shipping but never heard of the brand.
Also a good reason to fiddle with the handbrake pistons.
On the other hand... they are ok now and a set of drilled front with pads is only 120 incl. shipping.
MTEC are decent, cheap, available with coatings... but not sure on weight.
My reading of brakes on here suggests that the best option for a road car is pagid discs and ebc yellow stuff pads.
Grooved or dimpled etc looks pretty cool but reportedly aren't as sturdy and yea the noise would also put me off. Might be worth it for a track car where the brakes are gonna be worked much harder. Equally might be worth it for a show car. They do look good especially with some nice painted calipers.
I'll probably refresh my brakes and paint calipers (red) next year. Discs are quite rusty but there's plenty left on them. Afaik you should always refresh pads with new discs but I imagine plenty don't. I'll stick with best practice and solid advice!
I've not changed the brakes on my 2 but did change the fronts on my daily for Pagid. The Ford OE discs were rusty and worn and I changed them for Pagid that are treated against rust and they have resisted corrosion for a couple of years.
Thanks for all the feedback.
Quote from: househead on October 16, 2019, 17:53My reading of brakes on here suggests that the best option for a road car is pagid discs and ebc yellow stuff pads.
Grooved or dimpled etc looks pretty cool but reportedly aren't as sturdy and yea the noise would also put me off. Might be worth it for a track car where the brakes are gonna be worked much harder. Equally might be worth it for a show car. They do look good especially with some nice painted calipers.
I'll probably refresh my brakes and paint calipers (red) next year. Discs are quite rusty but there's plenty left on them. Afaik you should always refresh pads with new discs but I imagine plenty don't. I'll stick with best practice and solid advice!
Over here rust is way less of an issue. Basically not a consideration.
Yellow pads... maybe. No complaints over the OEM ones. They are good in all circumstances and leave little dust.
Apart from specific requirements, imo the pad combo the disc manufacturer suggests is usually a safe bet.
Grooves, dimpled or drilled; it all leaves stress raisers. Yes, that all else the same, is less strong than a smooth, flat disc. Whether that would be an issue on our nimble Spyder under road conditions .... nah, not even here in the southern mountains.
I have no doubt that the flat disc offer way more freedom in pad choice.
The added lightness of drilling:
Cross drilled through discs have roughly the equivalent of a half meter long 4 mm diameter thin rod per disc drilled out, which equals to about one wheel nut.
Standard disks worn to near the limit are surely the lightest safe option? You've already got what you desire!
Quote from: jonbill on October 16, 2019, 21:47Standard disks worn to near the limit are surely the lightest safe option? You've already got what you desire!
Genius! He might have a point.
But there is a but ... a member wants to spend some money, and talk them out of it is not what we do here >:D
Quote from: jonbill on October 16, 2019, 21:47Standard disks worn to near the limit are surely the lightest safe option? You've already got what you desire!
Yep. That is as good as t gets indeed.And for free.
Point is the wobble.
No hurry though; it´s within margins. Got a year and they will only get lighter :-)
The slush money can be spent on a multitude of alternative fun. Even limited to the car there is the chrome wrap and ofcourse the headrest fairing.
Looking forward to the chrome wrap btw.; side mirrors, windscreen frame, gear shift surround. Would like to do the door handles but that interferes with the blade warrior.
Blueprint discs. I have used them on track for years with no issues. £120 for all 4 discs too.