Anyone any experience with these lithium batteries?
https://www.powerlite-units.com/power/ps-09.html
Unique built in voltage check panel.
Voltage - 12.8v Capacity - 9Ah
Cold Cranking Amps - 300
and only 1.4kg (3lbs)
seems like a good weight reduction for not that much money and also has a charger included..
Quote from: MR2Bart1991 on May 25, 2020, 12:00Anyone any experience with these lithium batteries?
https://www.powerlite-units.com/power/ps-09.html
Unique built in voltage check panel.
Voltage - 12.8v Capacity - 9Ah
Cold Cranking Amps - 300
and only 1.4kg (3lbs)
seems like a good weight reduction for not that much money...
@Petrus this is your territory
I have one in for over a year now. Smaller still and only 800 gram.
Works a treat.
Did install a voltage meter.
This type of battery is also much more compact so is less of an obstruction for airflow from the side vent.
The battery will drain after two weeks of no use as these cars have off key current. Best also fit a quick (dis)connect.
Quote from: Petrus on May 25, 2020, 12:24I have one in for over a year now. Smaller still and only 800 gram.
Works a treat.
Did install a voltage meter.
This type of battery is also much more compact so is less of an obstruction for airflow from the side vent.
The battery will drain after two weeks of no use as these cars have off key current. Best also fit a quick (dis)connect.
Yeah this one has a built in voltage meter + i was going to mount a kill switch just to be sure :p have you ever had problems starting with yours?
Quote from: MR2Bart1991 on May 25, 2020, 12:28Yeah this one has a built in voltage meter + i was going to mount a kill switch just to be sure :p have you ever had problems starting with yours?
I put one in the dash to make sure the charge is not excessive.
Kill switch is not same as quick disconnect but ok, has the same effect.
No problems ever apart from the common one lead/acid users complain about too.
More on it from page 2 Belle´s thread
Maybe something with higher capacity and bigger CCA:
Specifications.
YLP14
Voltage 13.2
PbEq Capacity 14Ah
Current CA (23c) 490A
Current CCA (-18c) 245A
Max Charge Current 10A
Weight 760g
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aliant-Lithium-Motorcycle-Battery-YLP14-/253804158364
This one looks good. I'm also looking for new car battery, and I will probably buy this one. But I do not know if there is version with plus on right side.
@Edit I Just notice 14Ah is equivalent capacity :/
Quote from: tom256 on May 25, 2020, 17:17But I do not know if there is version with plus on right side.
The terminal is different; with ´motorcycle´ cable terminals and you can fit it easier so with the poles on the correct side.
Because the battery is so much smaller, also lower you have more play on/with the cables.
Finally I bought this one:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000829013904.html?spm=a2g0s.imconversation.0.0.27b83e5fETOEmZ
40Ah, but books like true capacity is 20Ah. Still it comparable to acid battery 40Ah.
By jove!! That should be enough :o The poor little 1ZZ will not know what kicks it into action ;)
I don't think lithium batteries will last very long if they are charged directly via the alternator.
A Lead acid battery accepts charging at a constant voltage but I think a lithium prefers being charged at a constant current, meaning that the charge voltage needs to be adjusted depending on the battery state of charge.
Temperature is also a problem, lithium batteries have a much lower maximum temperature so be careful if you are still using the battery on the engine bay (should be fine in the frunk)
There is a world of diffeence between Lithi-ion and LiFe. The latter is ok in automotive application. Just make sure the chargoing voltage stays under 14.5V.
Quote from: gon on May 28, 2020, 11:38I don't think lithium batteries will last very long if they are charged directly via the alternator.
A Lead acid battery accepts charging at a constant voltage but I think a lithium prefers being charged at a constant current, meaning that the charge voltage needs to be adjusted depending on the battery state of charge.
Temperature is also a problem, lithium batteries have a much lower maximum temperature so be careful if you are still using the battery on the engine bay (should be fine in the frunk)
This is all true but it depends on the current state of technology. I have been using a Lithium Iron battery for over four years now and its held up great but not for others that bought the same one. The reason for this is you need to be on top of it otherwise you will shorten the life. Most of these batteries like mine have a balance circuit built in however because our alternators are rated at 80 amps it can kill these batteries if they have to charge them in a low state of charge.
If you have one where the charge falls too low the battery will be irreversibly damaged. It may appear to be ok but it will begin to go bad in time.
The latest technology is having the circuit disconnect the battery at a point where it will damage the battery. The owner can then press a reset button on the battery and start the car. Also some of the newer circuits will have overcharge protection which is what you want but not all of these batteries have them.
I keep my battery on a CTEK battery charger all the time to monitor the charge so its always at its peak where it preserves the longevity of the battery and that is how I have made it last compared to others that had them fail in time.
When this battery does I'm considering replacing with a lightweight battery with a solar trickle charger to keep it topped up.
Use my car as a daily though so unsure on the reliability, don't want to get stuck at work every other week in the winter...
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AA-12V-Solar-Powered-Panel-Car-Caravan-Battery-EOBD-Trickle-Charger-Maintainer-/372599294307
Quote from: mr9 on May 28, 2020, 18:10When this battery does I'm considering replacing with a lightweight battery with a solar trickle charger to keep it topped up.
Use my car as a daily though so unsure on the reliability, don't want to get stuck at work every other week in the winter...
You can simply use jump starter:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JN8A2nIMUWA
I looks more reliable.
Some more expensive LiFePo4 car battery, when are low are disconnecting to save same power for starting engine.
I am about to change mine and I am going to stick with led acid ... going for an odyssey PC680 aka odyssey racing 25.
The terminals seems to be on the correct side , it should just needs a spacer at the top.
Quote from: Petrus on May 28, 2020, 12:09There is a world of diffeence between Lithi-ion and LiFe. The latter is ok in automotive application. Just make sure the chargoing voltage stays under 14.5V.
What Lithium alternative would you recommend as a good VfM for an Odyssey PC680?
The Shido YB16AL-A2 LiFePO4 should do nicely.
You decide whether it is vfm.
So it arrived and really looks nice
(https://scontent-bru2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/103084748_3049444605098955_5017846866299807603_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_sid=0be424&_nc_ohc=CJJIQz-jUqkAX-oDUVO&_nc_ht=scontent-bru2-1.xx&oh=49d083a392eb1c0c49c29119fe00c8fa&oe=5F035CB9)(https://scontent-bru2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/103490608_3049444665098949_6569652687321921762_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_sid=0be424&_nc_ohc=VVGfxgrxYa0AX_JzQqo&_nc_ht=scontent-bru2-1.xx&oh=7c6e9f933880241811d310c9b4a18502&oe=5F02DCD7)
comes with lithium charger and brace to put it in your car.
Quote from: MR2Bart1991 on June 9, 2020, 07:21So it arrived and really looks nice
(https://scontent-bru2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/103084748_3049444605098955_5017846866299807603_n.jpg?_nc_cat=110&_nc_sid=0be424&_nc_ohc=CJJIQz-jUqkAX-oDUVO&_nc_ht=scontent-bru2-1.xx&oh=49d083a392eb1c0c49c29119fe00c8fa&oe=5F035CB9)(https://scontent-bru2-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/103490608_3049444665098949_6569652687321921762_n.jpg?_nc_cat=105&_nc_sid=0be424&_nc_ohc=VVGfxgrxYa0AX_JzQqo&_nc_ht=scontent-bru2-1.xx&oh=7c6e9f933880241811d310c9b4a18502&oe=5F02DCD7)
comes with lithium charger and brace to put it in your car.
Please do provide pics of the installation and let us know how you get on after a week of running it?
So here it is:
Quote from: tom256 on June 19, 2020, 21:18So here it is:
how has it been performing ? so far so good ?
Quote from: gon on October 23, 2020, 15:34how has it been performing ? so far so good ?
So far no problems. Working better than standard.
I'm currently using a golf kart battery in my track car, its 6.4kg but for £36 I have no complaints, been great so far. Had a Varley red top 20 in before but this was very unreliable and eventually popped a cell and fried my ECU in the process. Cant justify a £200 battery again to save a further 3kg, i'd rather just go on a diet for a month.
https://www.thebatteryshop.co.uk/yuasa-rec22-12i-12v-22ah-cyclic-battery-10456-p.asp
Quote from: JB21 on November 12, 2020, 08:28Cant justify a £200 battery again to save a further 3kg, i'd rather just go on a diet for a month.
LiFePo4 are superior to acid battery in every case. These are safer, voltage is more stable(no voltage drop when you are starting engine), have better CCA, charging much, much faster and are lighter. When you discharge it it will not degrade. Only disadvantage is price, and you cannot exceed 14v when charging it. That is why you should use special charger.
Quote from: tom256 on November 12, 2020, 09:25Quote from: JB21 on November 12, 2020, 08:28Cant justify a £200 battery again to save a further 3kg, i'd rather just go on a diet for a month.
LiFePo4 are superior to acid battery in every case.
Yeah apart from costing 4 times as much, not being able to exceed 14v and needing a special charger, plus they don't like heat and my engine bay gets very, very hot so would need relocating to the frunk.
Superior in every case yeah!
Quote from: JB21 on November 12, 2020, 09:47Quote from: tom256 on November 12, 2020, 09:25Quote from: JB21 on November 12, 2020, 08:28Cant justify a £200 battery again to save a further 3kg, i'd rather just go on a diet for a month.
LiFePo4 are superior to acid battery in every case.
Yeah apart from costing 4 times as much, not being able to exceed 14v and needing a special charger, plus they don't like heat and my engine bay gets very, very hot so would need relocating to the frunk.
Superior in every case yeah!
Lifespan is much longer that acid battery. I'm not sure if also in MR2 hot engine bay. You can use standard if you will not exceed 14V.
Diet is not for me. My weight is 73kg and it is fine 😁
Quote from: JB21 on November 12, 2020, 09:47not being able to exceed 14v
14.5V and the alternator stays below 14.2, lowering to 13.9 on a longer trip.
Also, they are a LOT smaller meaning they do not restrict airflow through the engine room as much, meaning they will be in a cooler place.
Most of us replace the pre-cats which lowers the temp. as does a sbetter flowing exhaust. The temp. is a non-issue on n.a. cars. On forced induction you most times want to move the battery anyway. It does not have to go up front though, the rear cubby will do nicely.
Meanwhile my 800 gramm LiFe is still going great.
Quote from: Petrus on November 12, 2020, 10:13Quote from: JB21 on November 12, 2020, 09:47not being able to exceed 14v
The temp. is a non-issue on n.a. cars.
It is in mine doing 20 minute stints on track most of it at 8200rpm!
Quote from: tom256 on November 12, 2020, 10:08I'm not sure if also in MR2 hot engine bay.
The MR2 does not have a hot engine bay. It only appears to be because of the hot exhaust/cat sitting at the rear where you stand when opening the lid so you get hit by a hot wave.
Those sitting at the rear means that when on the move the hot air is straight out the back and gone while the engine bay is very well protected from radiating heat by heat shields.
At lower speeds less air flows out but then you are not stepping on it either so less heat is produced.
It only becomes different when a turbo it added. That is a whole different issue and should not be confused with the n.a.
Quote from: JB21 on November 12, 2020, 10:19It is in mine doing 20 minute stints on track most of it at 8200rpm!
Like a different engine is representative, never mind that use.
Quote from: Petrus on November 12, 2020, 10:20Quote from: tom256 on November 12, 2020, 10:08I'm not sure if also in MR2 hot engine bay.
The MR2 does not have a hot engine bay. It only appears to be because of the hot exhaust/cat sitting at the rear where you stand when opening the lid so you get hit by a hot wave.
Those sitting at the rear means that when on the move the hot air is straight out the back and gone while the engine bay is very well protected from radiating heat by heat shields.
At lower speeds less air flows out but then you are not stepping on it either so less heat is produced.
It only becomes different when a turbo it added. That is a whole different issue and should not be confused with the n.a.
Do you take pleasure in being an insufferable know it all? I know my own bloody car. Jesus Crist man cant you just accept someone else's experience. My car has no heat shields, a 3" cold air feed to the side scoop so does not get as much air into the engine bay that side. WTF am I even having to justifying it, please just give it a rest for once!
Quote from: JB21 on November 12, 2020, 10:32Do you take pleasure in being an insufferable know it all? I know my own bloody car. Jesus Crist man cant you just accept someone else's experience. My car has no heat shields, a 3" cold air feed to the side scoop so does not get as much air into the engine bay that side. WTF am I even having to justifying it, please just give it a rest for once!
I am happy for you that you have chosen the for your specific application correct battery.
Have a nice day, life´s too short.
I always think a good debate is half the fun.
I personally find mr2 engine bays quite hot.
I understand not having the radiator in the engine bay should reduce temps but airflow must be better through a front engine car even if the air is warmer.
Admittedly I've had as many modified 2s as I've had standard so maybe thats clouding my judgement.
Maybe I should buy a few cheap magnetic thermometers and see what they read compared to a front engined car.
Quote from: 1979scotte on November 12, 2020, 12:00I understand not having the radiator in the engine bay should reduce temps but airflow must be better through a front engine car even if the air is warmer.
Airflow is not very good on front engined cars because noise containment is a big thing since early eighties.
Have look at the openings the engine bays of about the past 20 years.
As the 1ZZ and 2ZZ is widely used in the Toyota range the intake temps from the MAF could be compared between models no? That is no definitive answer but neat comparative nonetheless.