Ok made a start today getting this smokey engine out, first big job i want to tackle is to get the driveshafts ready to pop out by loosening all rear suspension arms before i squeeze the car into my little garage to start swap proper, this is the only part im bothered about as it doesnt look like they have ever been out and arms bolts are very crusty!
Rear most Toe control arm is no problem as its a hardrace that hasnt been on that long so will come off ok im sure, middle and front/diagonal arms are not going to come easy!....middle arm hasnt long been attached to new subframe by PO so hopefully it will come off that end but doesnt look like it would come off at hub end!
Front/diagonal arm is what i concentrated on today, stripped off rear brakes for better access but couldnt get outer/hub side bolt to move, tried my snap on battery impact gun which has a lot of power but no joy!, moved onto my big mains powered impact gun but nothing! also tried big long bar on socket but no movement its solid!....i gave up for the day and will tackle the inner fitting to car chassis and see if that will come off, if im reading it right on other guides the nut on this one doesn't turn but you need to do the bolt ?, is it just this front/diagonal arm thats like this out of interest ?
If i cant get it off tempted to just sell car cheap for someone else to battle with it!
this has an air of que
@Carolyn
Actually you only need to get the calipers out of the way, remove the bolt that attaches the trailing arm to the hub and take out the bottom two bolts on the strut. The hubs will now swing away far enough to pop the driveshafts out of the gear box.
Loosen the shaft bearing on the O/S driveshaft and it the driveshaft will slide out of the box. If you haven't already drained the gearbox, you will now have a smelly mess of gearbox oil on the floor!
You can either knock the N/S shaft out of the gearbox or cut the large band on the inner driveshaft boot and pop the drive shaft apart. If you do that, tie-wrap a plastic bag round the drive bearings.
I then use a couple of bungie cords to tie the drive shafts out of the way. As I have a lift, I don't have to drop the cross member. How much you choose to dismantle on the cross member is up to you.
Often, you'll need a cheater bar on the end of a breaker bar to crack the nuts on the hub. Use a six point impact socket.
I tend not to undo anything that doesn't need to be undone, but it's up to you how you go about it.
Patience! It's a big job! Take your time. There are no prizes for 'quick'.
Quote from: Carolyn on June 7, 2020, 21:42Actually you only need to get the calipers out of the way, remove the bolt that attaches the trailing arm to the hub and take out the bottom two bolts on the strut. The hubs will now swing away far enough to pop the driveshafts out of the gear box.
Loosen the shaft bearing on the O/S driveshaft and it the driveshaft will slide out of the box. If you haven't already drained the gearbox, you will now have a smelly mess of gearbox oil on the floor!
You can either knock the N/S shaft out of the gearbox or cut the large band on the inner driveshaft boot and pop the drive shaft apart. If you do that, tie-wrap a plastic bag round the drive bearings.
I then use a couple of bungie cords to tie the drive shafts out of the way. As I have a lift, I don't have to drop the cross member. How much you choose to dismantle on the cross member is up to you.
Often, you'll need a cheater bar on the end of a breaker bar to crack the nuts on the hub. Use a six point impact socket.
I tend not to undo anything that doesn't need to be undone, but it's up to you how you go about it.
Patience! It's a big job! Take your time. There are no prizes for 'quick'.
Thanks for the tips all useful info :)
When you say trailing arm i presume you mean number 4 on below picture ? as in the one that goes at a diagonal towards front of car from hub, this is the one i tried to get undone off the hub today with no joy :( going to see if i can get the inner fixing undone instead.
rear-arms.jpg
Quote from: thetyrant on June 7, 2020, 22:12Quote from: Carolyn on June 7, 2020, 21:42Actually you only need to get the calipers out of the way, remove the bolt that attaches the trailing arm to the hub and take out the bottom two bolts on the strut. The hubs will now swing away far enough to pop the driveshafts out of the gear box.
Loosen the shaft bearing on the O/S driveshaft and it the driveshaft will slide out of the box. If you haven't already drained the gearbox, you will now have a smelly mess of gearbox oil on the floor!
You can either knock the N/S shaft out of the gearbox or cut the large band on the inner driveshaft boot and pop the drive shaft apart. If you do that, tie-wrap a plastic bag round the drive bearings.
I then use a couple of bungie cords to tie the drive shafts out of the way. As I have a lift, I don't have to drop the cross member. How much you choose to dismantle on the cross member is up to you.
Often, you'll need a cheater bar on the end of a breaker bar to crack the nuts on the hub. Use a six point impact socket.
I tend not to undo anything that doesn't need to be undone, but it's up to you how you go about it.
Patience! It's a big job! Take your time. There are no prizes for 'quick'.
Thanks for the tips all useful info :)
When you say trailing arm i presume you mean number 4 on below picture ? as in the one that goes at a diagonal towards front of car from hub, this is the one i tried to get undone off the hub today with no joy :( going to see if i can get the inner fixing undone instead.
rear-arms.jpg
That's the one! Try a bit of scaffold pole over the breaker bar. You'll crack it.
OK cheers, if i cant get that trailing arm off but can get rest disconnected will there be enough room to get shaft out ? im guessing not due to angle of it!
Im going to split shafts at CV leaving ends in box as would like to inspect and re-grease anyhows so not sure if that makes it easier to get shafts out ?
Quote from: thetyrant on June 8, 2020, 08:25OK cheers, if i cant get that trailing arm off but can get rest disconnected will there be enough room to get shaft out ? im guessing not due to angle of it!
Im going to split shafts at CV leaving ends in box as would like to inspect and re-grease anyhows so not sure if that makes it easier to get shafts out ?
The trailing arm has to come off to get the hub out of the way.
By all means open up the CV joints, but realise that the O/S shaft will have to come off the bearing mount on the engine to get the gearbox off, so do drain the gearbox.
A bit of fresh graaphite grease in the joints is no bad thing. I bet the old stuff looks like dirty cream.
Quote from: Carolyn on June 8, 2020, 12:03The trailing arm has to come off to get the hub out of the way.
By all means open up the CV joints, but realise that the O/S shaft will have to come off the bearing mount on the engine to get the gearbox off, so do drain the gearbox.
A bit of fresh graaphite grease in the joints is no bad thing. I bet the old stuff looks like dirty cream.
Ok need to man up and get this trailing arm off then :)
I will be draining the gbox before i start and makes sense to regrease the CV's while its apart, like you say im sure it wont be pretty in them!
Quote from: thetyrant on June 8, 2020, 13:31Quote from: Carolyn on June 8, 2020, 12:03The trailing arm has to come off to get the hub out of the way.
By all means open up the CV joints, but realise that the O/S shaft will have to come off the bearing mount on the engine to get the gearbox off, so do drain the gearbox.
A bit of fresh graaphite grease in the joints is no bad thing. I bet the old stuff looks like dirty cream.
Ok need to man up and get this trailing arm off then :)
I will be draining the gbox before i start and makes sense to regrease the CV's while its apart, like you say im sure it wont be pretty in them!
Just the hub end is sufficient.
Quote from: Carolyn on June 8, 2020, 13:33Just the hub end is sufficient.
Im not confident the hub end is going to come off as i gave it a lot of pain yesterday, also sense it might be corroded inside the bush as well so even if i cut/grind nut off i may have some issues getting it apart, but will give it another go :) can you confirm the hub end of trailing arm is just a normal nut and bolt ? not one with locked/fixed nut like on the inner fixing of this arm to car body?
I did get the axle nut de-staked and cracked ok so at least that part is ready to complete :)
Quote from: thetyrant on June 8, 2020, 13:37Quote from: Carolyn on June 8, 2020, 13:33Just the hub end is sufficient.
Im not confident the hub end is going to come off as i gave it a lot of pain yesterday, also sense it might be corroded inside the bush as well so even if i cut/grind nut off i may have some issues getting it apart, but will give it another go :) can you confirm the hub end of trailing arm is just a normal nut and bolt ? not one with locked/fixed nut like on the inner fixing of this arm to car body?
I did get the axle nut de-staked and cracked ok so at least that part is ready to complete :)
You don't need to take the driveshaft out of the hub (unless you want to). Yes, it's a nut and bolt. If you can't get it out, then the hub has to come off. They do sometimes get seized. In which case,the hub needs to be on the bench. If you can crack the nut a little, get plenty of plus gas in the gap and knock the bolt back and forth. The more it moves...
OK had a quick look again last night, got the inner fixing of trailing arm loosened off so should be able to get arm off...or complete hub off worst case, what was strange ive read a few people say that outer nut on this arm is fixed/locked into bracket on car and you have to rotate the inner bolt end of it which i did, however once it started to come i could then turn the nut as well! is that not normal ?
Car is now squeezed into my little garage ready to get rear up on stands and get cracking on removal, its going to be a squeeze but think its do'able and like the fact i can shut the door on it when needed or ive had enough for the day lol... i was going to do it on my drive for my side access but its not ideal due to slope of it and while i did initially rig up some ramps and things at front to get car more level im paranoid about it getting away on me and also cant just shut the door on it when im done for day.
@thetyrantParanoia/ self preservation is no bad thing.
I've not done what your attempting, but I have drained and refilled the four drive shaft boots with lubricant in situ.
I did that work in my "little garage" but with car front end in and rear end near the door you get some wriggle room with the door open.
Quote from: Joesson on June 9, 2020, 11:57@thetyrant
Paranoia/ self preservation is no bad thing.
I've not done what your attempting, but I have drained and refilled the four drive shaft boots with lubricant in situ.
I did that work in my "little garage" but with car front end in and rear end near the door you get some wriggle room with the door open.
Yes that's the way i have it with nose in and rear at the door so plenty of room behind car with door open (non with door shut!) , its quite sheltered even with door open so unless very wet and windy i can still work no problem, side access to car is the issue but i can get in at both sides with just enough room to work but a bit cramped, now everything is loosened off hopefully i can do what i need to, once shafts are out everything else should be no problem as its done from back and underneath.
Quote from: thetyrant on June 9, 2020, 12:24Quote from: Joesson on June 9, 2020, 11:57@thetyrant
Paranoia/ self preservation is no bad thing.
I've not done what your attempting, but I have drained and refilled the four drive shaft boots with lubricant in situ.
I did that work in my "little garage" but with car front end in and rear end near the door you get some wriggle room with the door open.
Yes that's the way i have it with nose in and rear at the door so plenty of room behind car with door open (non with door shut!) , its quite sheltered even with door open so unless very wet and windy i can still work no problem, side access to car is the issue but i can get in at both sides with just enough room to work but a bit cramped, now everything is loosened off hopefully i can do what i need to, once shafts are out everything else should be no problem as its done from back and underneath.
GLWJ
(Good Luck With Job)
Quote from: thetyrant on June 9, 2020, 10:47OK had a quick look again last night, got the inner fixing of trailing arm loosened off so should be able to get arm off...or complete hub off worst case, what was strange ive read a few people say that outer nut on this arm is fixed/locked into bracket on car and you have to rotate the inner bolt end of it which i did, however once it started to come i could then turn the nut as well! is that not normal ?
Car is now squeezed into my little garage ready to get rear up on stands and get cracking on removal, its going to be a squeeze but think its do'able and like the fact i can shut the door on it when needed or ive had enough for the day lol... i was going to do it on my drive for my side access but its not ideal due to slope of it and while i did initially rig up some ramps and things at front to get car more level im paranoid about it getting away on me and also cant just shut the door on it when im done for day.
I've just replaced them (oh and the subframe) and mine were def bolts with nuts at each end of that arm.
And i'm in the same position, nose in with enough room to shut the garage door. Still need a dry calm day as I did try do some work with the door shut and there just isnt enough room to be comfortable!
Quote from: tricky1138 on June 9, 2020, 14:36I've just replaced them (oh and the subframe) and mine were def bolts with nuts at each end of that arm.
And i'm in the same position, nose in with enough room to shut the garage door. Still need a dry calm day as I did try do some work with the door shut and there just isnt enough room to be comfortable!
Thanks, so have you had all 3 arms from chassis/crossmember off on each side ? curious as where these fixed nuts are that ive read about, im sure it supposed to be the chassis end of the front trailing arm but mine arent so wonder if its a different arm ive not tackled yet ?
Quote from: thetyrant on June 9, 2020, 14:55Quote from: tricky1138 on June 9, 2020, 14:36I've just replaced them (oh and the subframe) and mine were def bolts with nuts at each end of that arm.
And i'm in the same position, nose in with enough room to shut the garage door. Still need a dry calm day as I did try do some work with the door shut and there just isnt enough room to be comfortable!
Thanks, so have you had all 3 arms from chassis/crossmember off on each side ? curious as where these fixed nuts are that ive read about, im sure it supposed to be the chassis end of the front trailing arm but mine arent so wonder if its a different arm ive not tackled yet ?
I've had the 2 arms that go from the crossmember to the hubs off and they are nuts/bolts on both ends of the front one, and nuts onto the ball joints and cam bolts / nuts on the rear one.
The third arm, which is the most forward one that goes under the engine, I didnt remove the chassis end, but the crossmember end is a bolt going into a captive nut. The chassis end does look the same.
Quote from: tricky1138 on June 9, 2020, 15:53I've had the 2 arms that go from the crossmember to the hubs off and they are nuts/bolts on both ends of the front one, and nuts onto the ball joints and cam bolts / nuts on the rear one.
The third arm, which is the most forward one that goes under the engine, I didnt remove the chassis end, but the crossmember end is a bolt going into a captive nut. The chassis end does look the same.
Thanks, the 2 arms that go from hub to rear crossmember have been off at crossmember end when PO changed the rear crossmember so i know they will come off ok at that end at least, it is the front trailing arm that goes diagonally back from car body to hub that ive been battling with and needs to detach to allow hub to swing enough for shaft removal.
According to several guides ive read for clutch change and engine removal etc (including the guide on here quoted below) they mention about these fixed/captive nuts and a having to turn the bolt not nut, in fact reading it again it says both front/trailing and middle/strut arm have these nuts and on the guide on here and others it imply's they are on car body/crossmember end of arms, but seems thats maybe not the case?, you found the front trailing was captive/fixed nut on
hub end of arm but Carolyn suggests otherwise so not sure which is correct or maybe all cars are not same!, it might explain why i couldnt shift the nut on hub end of front trailing arm though!
See below take from "clutch how to" on here on and how i come to conclusion about inner/crossmember end of arm fixings and captive/fixed nuts, would be nice to more clear on this detail for other tackling the jobs wondering like me if nut/bolt and seized with rust or im just trying to turn the wrong end of it which is fixed!, i would normally just try both ways but when fighting rusty bolts its nice to know which way to start on a job like this so can we clear this one up :)
Step 9 - Undo all nearside suspension arms at the crossmember end
On the front trailing arm and strut arm (the two arms closest to the FRONT of the car you need to turn the bolts. NOT the nuts. You can try to turn the nuts until you're blue in the face. They're designed not to budge.So which arms and ends of them have these fixed/captive nuts please ? :D
This may help, or maybe confuse things further...
'captive nut' to me means a nut that doesn't move, - undo the bolt & the nut stays there.
The nuts on my pfl have raised ridges that make indentations in the metal that they mate against. I assumed they were to stop them loosening. They come off when the bolt is loosened.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on June 10, 2020, 09:57This may help, or maybe confuse things further...
'captive nut' to me means a nut that doesn't move, - undo the bolt & the nut stays there.
The nuts on my pfl have raised ridges that make indentations in the metal that they mate against. I assumed they were to stop them loosening. They come off when the bolt is loosened.
Yes Captive may not be the best term to use but ive not see it apart yet to confirm if nut comes off when loose or not, it could be as you say some ident or key etc that just holds nut in place when everything it tight.
Which nut are you talking about with ridges on your car out of interest ?
I will be dropping/swapping my engine over hopefully in the next couple of months, can I not just disconnect the calipers from the hubs, hubs from the bottom of the suspension, disconnect everything up top in the engine bay and drop the rear subframe with everything attached?
p.s. already started soaking bolts!
Quote from: m1tch on June 10, 2020, 12:56I will be dropping/swapping my engine over hopefully in the next couple of months, can I not just disconnect the calipers from the hubs, hubs from the bottom of the suspension, disconnect everything up top in the engine bay and drop the rear subframe with everything attached?
p.s. already started soaking bolts!
Yes you can :) once you get the front trailing arm off from the hub at one end or the other! then rest can be lowered down complete if you wish.
Im not sure how far i will go yet in terms of removing parts, you can as Carolyn says just disconnect the front trailing arm and strut to get shafts out gbox then lower engine and box down without removing much else, i will probably take more parts off due to lack of working space in case i need shuffle things around, we will see.
Quote from: thetyrant on June 10, 2020, 13:27Quote from: m1tch on June 10, 2020, 12:56I will be dropping/swapping my engine over hopefully in the next couple of months, can I not just disconnect the calipers from the hubs, hubs from the bottom of the suspension, disconnect everything up top in the engine bay and drop the rear subframe with everything attached?
p.s. already started soaking bolts!
Yes you can :) once you get the front trailing arm off from the hub at one end or the other! then rest can be lowered down complete if you wish.
Im not sure how far i will go yet in terms of removing parts, you can as Carolyn says just disconnect the front trailing arm and strut to get shafts out gbox then lower engine and box down without removing much else, i will probably take more parts off due to lack of working space in case i need shuffle things around, we will see.
Will add it to the list of bolts I need to soak :D will be taking the wheels off in the next week or so to check over the handbrake etc.
Following.... I now have my replacement engine and will be doing the same in the near future.
Struggling to understand why the driveshaft needs to come out of the box? Can't you just drop the whole crossmember with hubs, engine, gearbox all together then just swap engine and lift it all back up?
I probably need to go and actually look at the car to realise why that doesn't work...
Glad to hear you have your new engine now. All the best for the transition, look forward to hearing how you get on. :)
Quote from: Captain Vimes on June 10, 2020, 18:37Following.... I now have my replacement engine and will be doing the same in the near future.
Struggling to understand why the driveshaft needs to come out of the box? Can't you just drop the whole crossmember with hubs, engine, gearbox all together then just swap engine and lift it all back up?
I probably need to go and actually look at the car to realise why that doesn't work...
You could do that but its a big unwieldy lump all connected together, i wouldnt like to do it that way without having a car lift, you could then disconnect pipes, wiring, brakes, trailing arm and struts etc then lift car up away from motor etc, however you then need to split the engine and gbox to fit the new engine which would be a mission without a few strong people on hand, especially getting gbox all lined up again onto new engine.
Im planning to remove quite a lot and more than i really need too just to make it easier to lower engine and box down then slide it out the back of car, once its out i can then swap box onto new engine and slide it back in and lift up etc, doing it in a single garage with limited space makes a bit more tricky but once i get arms off and shafts out the box rest shouldn't be too bad.
Here is where im upto so far after another hour on it after work today...
2nd day.jpg
Another hour on it tonight nearly ready to get shafts out then time to disconnect stuff up top and drop the lump out.
To answer my own question about nuts on arms etc, middle strut arm has the locking type nuts on both ends of it which have the raised bumps to dig/lock into metal once tight, which makes them hard to undo i guess and turning bolt to release initial tension at least. Front trailing arm still come off but looks same on that at least on outer end according to parts diagrams.
Here is where i am now..
3rd-day.jpg
Fingers crossed will have it dropped out tomorrow, popped into local motor factor today to see if they had a clutch kit for me, they had blueprint kit for £57 so thought that would do for me, even if i go turbo again i dont plan much over 200hp so should be ok for while at that if im kind to it, also at least i will know everything comes off next time if i want to uprate it.
Busy afternoon today, all fluids out, driveshaft outers and hubs removed as well as all rear suspension arms (going to tidy them up) then everything else disconnected from engine and its now ready to drop down out of car, was too hungry to do it today so thats tomorrows job :D
Suspension arms look like they have never been off as bolts inside bushes are pretty much like new, all nuts have the little bumps on them which lock into the brackets etc mean undoing bolts rather than nut initially to get tension off is the way to go on them all.
Spent some time cleaning up rear hubs once removed and cutting off the rusty stone sheild that sits behind disc, always worried about slicing myself on jagged edges so all gone now :D
Had a mission with fuel line to injector rail as needs a special tool to release inner barb, quick message to Dick Sloan and he told me a way to make a tool using cut down nozzle of silicone tube so after a bit of buggering about getting right size it released :D
Pic below of todays progress, doesnt look a lot different to last one but there is a whole heap more stuff removed and in my shed :D
20200613_175212.jpg
And its out!, picked up some sturdy ratchet straps from screwfix when it opened and these combined with jack underneath gradually lowered it all down onto floor, removed the loom and then gearbox, clutch but its soooo hot here today that might have to do :D
Few pics..
On its way down...
dropping.jpg
On the ground...
down.jpg
Split and stripped....
split1.jpg
@thetyrant I was not aware of the "Draper engine/ gearbox support", having looked it up on the www. I see that this is marketed for front engine/ front wheel drive but, of course, the support won't know the difference.
Looks like it does the job and perhaps with better working access than a floor crane device, but moving the lump is then another issue.
Also noticed that the Draper price is higher by the VAT than eBay or Amazon, I am still surprised that third parties can sell at less than the manufacturer/ main distributor, but to our benefit anyway.
Quote from: Joesson on June 14, 2020, 11:57@thetyrant
I was not aware of the "Draper engine/ gearbox support", having looked it up on the www. I see that this is marketed for front engine/ front wheel drive but, of course, the support won't know the difference.
Looks like it does the job and perhaps with better working access than a floor crane device, but moving the lump is then another issue.
Also noticed that the Draper price is higher by the VAT than eBay or Amazon, I am still surprised that third parties can sell at less than the manufacturer/ main distributor, but to our benefit anyway.
I borrowed mine from a local garage many years ago to change my old Evos clutch and its a very solid/heavy piece of kit, the garage then closed down before i got chance to return it so with me it stayed :), not used it much but its handy when you need it and as you say less intrusive than an engine crane, we have a crane at work that i can borrow but couldnt be bothered to go and get is so just lowered it down on the straps and beam.
Need to get crane to lift spare engine off the stand though and will probably use it to lift engine back in place as going up on straps isnt as easy as coming down witha jack to assist, its possible though and done it before.
Measured my old clutch which i think is original one and there is about 0.7mm of life left to rivets, new one has over a mm more at 1.8mm so ready for change, not bad for 105k miles if it is original one. The one i took off new engine which has done 76k measures in between the 2.
@thetyrant That was a good price!
Yes, lifting up on a screw thread not so easy as lowering but encouraging to hear that it can be done.
The clutch life seems good, using those wear figures mine at <70k has a way to go.
Hope all goes well as you progress.
I wouldnt want to lift up on the screw thread its not really designed for that, more for some minimal adjustment when doing clutches etc really, i used ratcheting tie down straps just looped over the beam and down underneath engine and box to drop it, have previously raised up gearbox that way as well but dont think i would want to do engine and box together, much better lifting with hydraulics on a crane :)
Popped to work this afternoon to grab our crane so i could get the new engine down off my stand and swap places with the old one under car, swapped over throttle body and few other bits then wheeled the stand with old engine away round back of house until space in garage again, cleaned up flywheel and gearbox ready for new clutch etc and called it a day for now.
Twin engine...hmmmm :)
oldandnew1.jpg
@thetyrant That would explain why the Draper beam is not in every post.
As for twin engines, I mentioned a 2CV with one engine in the back and one in the front, but thinking of 8 pots I wonder how the guy on here with the Audi V8 is getting on with getting it in and running?
Been doing a hour or so each night and got the new clutch fitted, gearbox/engine mated then fitted loom onto engine and then shuffled it all back under car ready to lift, last night i hooked it upto the crane and lifted it back in and bolted in place, all went smoothly :)
Also got the front engine mount with clutch slave etc all bolted up and clutch seems to work as it should, gear cables back on, coolant hoses and throttle cable all done as well, few more bits to do and hopefully get it fired up this weekend.
While apart i inspected/cleaned up all rear suspension arms/bolts etc and then treated/painted them so should last a little longer, all bushes in surprisingly good order for what i presume are original 2005/105k miles items!
Looking forward to driving it again :D
Well its all back together and filled with fluids, it starts and idles ok so time to bleed the cooling system and get it out for a run to see if the engine is actually healthy!... fingers crossed :)
60 miles this morning including a swing past Mr Sloans to pick up a few clips and things i needed, however news isnt good as while engine is ok at lower revs and no smell of burning oil (like my original which smelled all time) but once you give it some revs it really smokes probably worse :( Dick will keep me right either another good engine if he gets one in or refund which is probably way i will go.
Im going to start pulling my original engine apart this week and see what its like in there, im hoping maybe a set of revised pistons/rings and light cylinder hone might be all she needs to get back to full health, we will see and at least i know how to change the engine/box now so it wont take as long next time :D
I think that's a chance one always takes with a used engine.
It pays to open up any engine that's an 'unknown' and give it rings, a honing, valve seals and a head skim.
Hey -you gave it a shot!
I think going through the one you have out of the car is your best bet. You can clean up and modify the pistons that are already in there.
Yes it was always going to be a gamble with a used motor but at £300 it was worth a go, plan was to try it and if didnt work out then rebuild mine or find a good 2zz maybe so not a big problem, i was kind of hoping it would do rest of year and give me chance to work out a plan but heyho it cant be helped, all ive spent in process that cant be reused is oils really as clutch can be swapped over onto whatever goes in next, of course a lot of time as well but that isnt a issue for me as all part of learning :)
@thetyrant, Credit to Mr Sloan and to yourself for your understanding of the "learning" process. Good luck with the rebuild.
Sorry it hasn't worked out :( At least it's an obvious issue rather than a failure a few months down the road after warranty was out.
Hope you get something sorted soon
Yes its a shame but at least ive learned something and had a lot of parts removed and cleaned up underneath which will make it much easier next time :)
Will start a new thread with the rebuild soon, ive made a start pulling original engine apart and once i had cams out i realised i dont have the correct spline bit for headbolts DOH! ordered that and will get onto stripping once it arrives and sort a thread on my progress.
Quote from: thetyrant on June 22, 2020, 08:06Yes its a shame but at least ive learned something and had a lot of parts removed and cleaned up underneath which will make it much easier next time :)
Will start a new thread with the rebuild soon, ive made a start pulling original engine apart and once i had cams out i realised i dont have the correct spline bit for headbolts DOH! ordered that and will get onto stripping once it arrives and sort a thread on my progress.
Don't forget to remove the Oil Control Valve before undoing the head bolts. Engines are fun!
Quote from: Carolyn on June 22, 2020, 11:43Don't forget to remove the Oil Control Valve before undoing the head bolts. Engines are fun!
Thanks for tip and luckily i spotted it mentioned on another thread as well so ive got that out already :)
Here we go again :o , started stripping out the used engine i bought ready to pop in my rebuilt original, lot easier 2nd time around and only an hour to get to this point last night, so much easier now i know how its put together and all bolts come out easily :D
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