Hi all
I'm looking to buy my first mr2 mk3
Could you tell me what you think of this underside and how it compares? New rear subframe in 2014
Car is an 05 with 70k
Thanks
https://imgur.com/gallery/NdyKltN
Looks OK to me as far as you can tell from a pic.
Hello and welcome by the way.
Quote from: Ardent on June 13, 2020, 15:10Looks OK to me as far as you can tell from a pic.
Hello and welcome by the way.
Thanks
Matter that the side bar there has corrosion?
Had a note from garage that it could do with a wire brushing and waxoyl underneath
Ps what is that bar - a strut bar?
Thanks
Top Left is Drop Link and it attaches to the anti roll bar, both look fine.
The nearest rusty bar is the rear upper control arm, also looks fine. Grab them individually and try move them about. they shouldnt knock or move a lot at all. Its the rubber bushes in them that go first.
I'm no mechanic though. So if in doubt take it to one.
Hello, as
@Ardent said, can't tell much from a picture.
The rear sub frame is the only major item that typically suffers from rust damage.
Dependent on usage there will will be little or no sub frame damage or it will have rotted through.
My car is an 02, sub frame in good condition but since 2010 has only been used for 6 summer months.
"Yours" was likely used all year and so has been attacked by winter road salt hence replacement. If it has been similarly used since replacement it will logically need replacing again around 2023.
For perspective a new sub frame is around £350, this is often fitted by Members and so that and the cost of 4 wheel alignment and it's sorted.
The bar you refer to is the rear anti- roll bar, These corrode and similarly the front one.
That's an easy removable wire brush, De rust and repaint job that is typically done at home.
Personally I don't like Waxoyl, it can melt in the hot weather and drips onto the garage floor or driveway. Bilt Hamber do a range of rust removal and protection products that are well reviewed.
http://www.bilthamber.com/
Looks good to me. Some fresh arms. Looks like a new o2 sensor. Fresh looking subframe.
Thanks all
Sounding good
How long does an original clutch usually last for? This hasn't had a replacement yet - should I factor that in?
Best regards
Jack
Quote from: J4ck100 on June 13, 2020, 16:18Thanks all
Sounding good
How long does an original clutch usually last for? This hasn't had a replacement yet - should I factor that in?
Best regards
Jack
Depends how it drives really. I did mine at about 65k I think. But I'm not so hot on the mechanical sympathy.
Others will go 100k on a clutch.
Welcome,
Have you had a look at the buyers guide yet?
It would be good to take off the frunk plastics to look at the condition of the steering universal joint and the power steering pipes as they are prone to rust but are hidden under the plastics so often only discovered once you have got it home and we have badgered you to check them out!
We really need to "follow up" on
@Backys , a new member from Greece, he posted on here in late May telling us of his car with 320,000Km/ 200,000miles on it.
But we need to know the car's history!
Such a high mileage specimen could provide some indicators for others, such as what mileage for a clutch etc etc.
@J4ck100 Bit of surface corrosion is common, often looks worse than is, but nothing a little tlc won't cure.
The main bit, the sub frame has been done.
Will require geometry check if not done.
Clutch wise. These are light cars with economical engines, they are not heavy on clutches. More down to previous owners. But not something high on the list.
Most are renewed as part of other works. Not often just because they needed to be.
Quote from: Ardent on June 13, 2020, 19:45@J4ck100
Bit of surface corrosion is common, often looks worse than is, but nothing a little tlc won't cure.
The main bit, the sub frame has been done.
Will require geometry check if not done.
Clutch wise. These are light cars with economical engines, they are not heavy on clutches. More down to previous owners. But not something high on the list.
Most are renewed as part of other works. Not often just because they needed to be.
They have a pretty tall first gear though. So really depends how urban it's been throughout it's life.
Thanks all
Off to see it later today - very excited. Have read the buyers guide.
Have been reading up on the pre-cat issue a bit and plan to remove the o2 sensors to take a look at the honeycomb matrix
Am I right in thinking I should only proceed if the honeycomb is intact?
If there's no honeycomb observable, how does one tell if this means it's been removed professionally or if it's disintegrated entirely in situ?
Any other general points of note to look out for?
Thanks!
@J4ck100 As to proceeding with purchase if honeycomb is damaged:
It means that oil has passed the piston rings and damaged the honeycomb. That will continue until the engine dies. That can take short or long time dependent on state of play. Meanwhile it will use oil at ever increasing rate. If you are so inclined some have knowingly bought in this condition and rebuilt the engine. The state of the precats could assist in bargaining on price.
If no honeycomb observable :
They will likely have been removed purposefully as I believe the engine would be indicating it's lack of health in other ways if deteriorated to nothing.
Any other points:
The "Buyers Guide" covers most or all points of concern/ interest.
Check the oil level and cleanliness is I believe an indicator of general care/ condition.
GLWP
Good Luck With Purchase.
Let us know how you get on..
@J4ck100 Everything what Joesson said.
Have been reading up on the pre-cat issue a bit and plan to remove the o2 sensors to take a look at the honeycomb matrix
dont be surprised if met with resistance from owner. These are delicate things and don't take favourably to being disturbed. I would be a bit miffed being left with a code and a bill for a new one 10 miles into my next trip.
Am I right in thinking I should only proceed if the honeycomb is intact?
I'm tempted to say don't get too hung up on pre cats alone. Take the car in context as a whole.
If there's no honeycomb observable, how does one tell if this means it's been removed professionally or if it's disintegrated entirely in situ?
if its disintegrated in will have blocked the cat and will barely run if at all. Have you seen pictures of the engine bay? Does it have a stock manifold or been swapped for a toyo
Any other general points of note to look out for?
Thanks!
Quote from: Ardent on June 14, 2020, 11:57@J4ck100
Everything what Joesson said.
Have been reading up on the pre-cat issue a bit and plan to remove the o2 sensors to take a look at the honeycomb matrix
dont be surprised if met with resistance from owner. These are delicate things and don't take favourably to being disturbed. I would be a bit miffed being left with a code and a bill for a new one 10 miles into my next trip.
Am I right in thinking I should only proceed if the honeycomb is intact?
I'm tempted to say don't get too hung up on pre cats alone. Take the car in context as a whole.
If there's no honeycomb observable, how does one tell if this means it's been removed professionally or if it's disintegrated entirely in situ?
if its disintegrated in will have blocked the cat and will barely run if at all. Have you seen pictures of the engine bay? Does it have a stock manifold or been swapped for a toyo
Any other general points of note to look out for?
Thanks!
Standard manifold as far as I'm aware
Noted re: the o2 sensors - are they really that fragile? Any tips to minimise potential damage?
Hoping to be purchasing and owner has confirmed they are happy for me to inspect already so should be all good.
Wish me luck :)
Mr2 secured!
Honeycomb intact and drives like a dream
Super super happy
Thanks for all advice - most gratefully received
Glad to be in the club :)
https://imgur.com/gallery/aJHq0VT
Well played.
Tidy.
Let the spending commence.
Regardless of history. Carry out your own service. In the world or motoring these are cheap cars to maintain.
Give a close inspection to brand, age, condition and pressures of tyres. Cannot be stressed enough, tyres make a world of difference on these cars.
Much excitement ahead! but to get the most out of it. Get the basics covered early.
Air Filter (go stock, don't waste money on "performance" filters)
Maf Clean
Ecu reset
Oil n filter change. 3.7litres. Any good quality 5/30 Fully synth will see you right.
set of sparkies.
When you drop the top. Drop the windows an inch or so or open the doors. Same when putting up, when it rains. Otherwise its best down.
Just Saying.
You will have noticed, precats don't make the list.
Hello to a proper member now and glad to see you've got the most popular colour.
Hey all,
Really enjoying the MR2.
As is such, i'm looking to make a couple of tweaks.
Firstly, I note
@Ardent that removal of pre-cats don't make the cut - is this something you wouldn't consider doing at all or just something to consider down the line?
I have been playing with the idea of fitting a modified exhaust as my previous MX5 (am i allowed to say that word?!) had a lovely fruity note which I'm missing.
I understand one can fit a custom exhaust manifold which would remove the pre-cats by default.
Exhaust wise I have my eye on a Malian TTE-style exhaust on ebay which looks like it would do the job nicely.
Thanks
Jack
Do your homework on the fit of anything Malian. They're cheap, they were a crap fit, & still reading grumbles on f/book...the group you saw the car listed in.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on June 22, 2020, 10:41Do your homework on the fit of anything Malian. They're cheap, they were a crap fit, & still reading grumbles on f/book...the group you saw the car listed in.
"cheap and cheerful".
Once you've got it on after fiddling, people seem to be happy. But rust and corrosion seems to be a problem.
Given that a similar exhaust is many hundreds more, I think it's a case of "it'll do, but you get what you pay for"
Interesting, I have not yet come across one disappointed Malian customer except one chap who begrudged the lack of a second universal exhaust hanger.
Quote from: J4ck100 on June 22, 2020, 12:42Interesting, I have not yet come across one disappointed Malian customer except one chap who begrudged the lack of a second universal exhaust hanger.
That's kind of my point in an odd way :)
I've definitely seen some posts (mostly Facebook) talking about rust, corrosion, bad fit, work having to be done on the flange (that was resolved I believe). But all in all, most are happy with it for what they paid.
The main gripe here by
@Ardent was the lack of instructions making it clear that it was a straight hard fit between exhaust and cat. No donut gasket. A minor gripe. I believe he's otherwise content with it
Quote from: J4ck100 on June 22, 2020, 09:53Firstly, I note @Ardent that removal of pre-cats don't make the cut - is this something you wouldn't consider doing at all or just something to consider down the line?
While the car is new to you. Keep a close eye on any oil consumption.
Pre cat failure, is a manifestation of prior poor maintenance. If you are not consuming oil the further down the list the pre cats go.
Quote from: shnazzle on June 22, 2020, 12:45Quote from: J4ck100 on June 22, 2020, 12:42Interesting, I have not yet come across one disappointed Malian customer except one chap who begrudged the lack of a second universal exhaust hanger.
That's kind of my point in an odd way :)
I've definitely seen some posts (mostly Facebook) talking about rust, corrosion, bad fit, work having to be done on the flange (that was resolved I believe). But all in all, most are happy with it for what they paid.
The main gripe here by @Ardent was the lack of instructions making it clear that it was a straight hard fit between exhaust and cat. No donut gasket. A minor gripe. I believe he's otherwise content with it
What
@shnazzle said. The no doughnut should have been made clear prior to purchase. Failing that. Instructions in the box. Neither. The flange has no threads. So need to source own bolts washers nuts. Why no fitting kit?
Leaves a sour taste to the experience.
On the sports version I have the box is taller than stock. Interfers with under side of heat shield.
Search for Malian and me as user. Best to look at the thread as many pictures.
This car he enquired about was for sale on F/book. The Seller promised 1st dibs to someone (a new member on here also) but Jack travelled from London to the Midlands (popped by said the Seller.....) & the deal was done.
The car is now for sale on Autorader (£750 mark-up approx) by a Trader. He was 'super-happy" too....
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on July 1, 2020, 22:26This car he enquired about was for sale on F/book. The Seller promised 1st dibs to someone (a new member on here also) but Jack travelled from London to the Midlands (popped by said the Seller.....) & the deal was done.
The car is now for sale on Autorader (£750 mark-up approx) by a Trader. He was 'super-happy" too....
?
Jack' s car. Is back up on Autotrader?
Edit: found it. Shame... Another "enthusiast" gone.
Not gone anywhere! I found a TF300 in Sable which I couldn't resist (proffered colour) so the Silver 05 is now with it's new owner up in Dundee who's over the moon and I am too with my TF.
Quote from: J4ck100 on July 13, 2020, 18:14Not gone anywhere! I found a TF300 in Sable which I couldn't resist (proffered colour) so the Silver 05 is now with it's new owner up in Dundee who's over the moon and I am too with my TF.
Phew! Glad you didn't defect :)
We did much the same. Not quite as quick, but I bought my pre-fl and it wasn't long before I sold it and swapped it for my current facelift. Which now looks worse than my pre-fl hahaha
Nope, I plan on being around for the long haul with TF282
Just need to figure out tyre situation now (see thread in performance section if you're interested)
Thanks
Yoko ad08r (s)