Rears only, so far. The instructions that come with these kits are generic, non-specific to the 2 & shocking in my opinion for a company of their standing.
There is no detail about this bit. The Top nut down into the o/e KYB top mount is recessed. A socket has to be used. There is a flat on the top of the shock shaft (giving a 'd' effect), but since the nut is recessed, it can't be used. I never gave this a thought though when I assembled them before fitment.
The top nut has to be tightened to 80Nm. So when I tried to get close to that the shock shaft was turning. So I put the strut in a vice, clamping the top mount. The top mount id d'd to fit on the shaft, but it's asking a lot of the small mating surface to resist 80Nm. I got them pretty well done though, but then when I went to fit them the top mount studs didn't align with the chassis holes. Dummy, yes....
So I had to remove from car, back in the vice & back off the nut. So how to do it?
Elsewhere I read of using vice grips with rubber tube protecting the shock shaft. I've tried that & I can't even get as high as 60Nm. And the rubber tore.
Some people use an Impact Gun I've heard, but there is a diagram on Koni's leaflet saying not to. I don't have a decent one, just a basic 12v powered Clarke....I don't fancy trying it.
Any suggestions?
iirc
@thetyrant amongst others, has fitted Koni's and hopefully with this mention of his name he may notice this post and be able to help.
I remember having the same issue.
I went off two principles, right or wrong;
A) it's a nyloc nut usually, so it's not going to undo easily
B) just needs to be tight enough to make sure the perch is firmly clamped down against the spherical bearing/Bush depending on whether it was front/back, so there is no play.
Then I used an impact-driver-like motions to tighten. Quick hard snaps on the wrench until it was seated well and tight.
Never had issues.
Quote from: Joesson on June 16, 2020, 20:42iirc @thetyrant amongst others, has fitted Koni's and hopefully with this mention of his name he may notice this post and be able to help.
Perhaps, but the Tyrant is one of those Impact Gun Renegades.....
I'm pretty sure that when I did mine the flat on the damper strut matched a 'D-shaped' hole in the top mount. Once the top mount is bolted back on the car it was easy to torque up correctly with a socket.
Are you replacing top mounts with some that don't have the 'D-shaped' hole?
Edit: thinking about it, I suspect the D-shape hole was on the spring seat. Once it was all back together it torqued up on the car. Otherwise, just hold the spring seat in a vice (after checking alignment on the car):
A922BB15-469F-4F55-9FC1-D41E6A7D449F.jpeg
Quote from: Captain Vimes on June 16, 2020, 22:36I'm pretty sure that when I did mine the flat on the damper strut matched a 'D-shaped' hole in the top mount. Once the top mount is bolted back on the car it was easy to torque up correctly with a socket.
Are you replacing top mounts with some that don't have the 'D-shaped' hole?
Re-read my post...I mention the 'd'. I don't think it's strong enough to resist the shock shaft turning.
I
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on June 16, 2020, 22:54Quote from: Captain Vimes on June 16, 2020, 22:36I'm pretty sure that when I did mine the flat on the damper strut matched a 'D-shaped' hole in the top mount. Once the top mount is bolted back on the car it was easy to torque up correctly with a socket.
Are you replacing top mounts with some that don't have the 'D-shaped' hole?
Re-read my post...I mention the 'd'. I don't think it's strong enough to resist the shock shaft turning.
Well mine torqued up fine. If the spring platform can hold the spring and weight of the car, it should be OK for Torquing a bolt.
You dont need to remove the topmount to get it all in line, take some tension off spring with compressors then just rotate topmount into correct position, the damper rod will rotate with the top mount attached once you take some spring tension off sometimes even without using compressors.
Fixed it. I took the strut off & disassembled it. The hole in the top mount had suffered more, rather than being a loose d it was circular. Apart from that the rest of it was in solid condition, & I'd already painted it. So I put it in a vice & used a small chisel & a mallet & created a sort of flat. I used a socket to knock it down over the shock rod threads (easier than I expected) aligned it & it torqued to 80Nm.