Hi Everyone,
I have an issue, when im out driving my MR2 i struggle to keep up with everyday cars round corners etc etc. I have only had the car a short time and have read loads of posts about ending up in ditches and snap back over steer situations so i dont know if im being to scared to drive it normally or if the car has issues at the front which makes it handle badly.
Every corner i go round im worried i will loose the back, probably just me not knowing the cars characteristics and it will come with time but i'm not sure.
What are you r thoughts etc.
Thanks
Maybe a little background might help;- how old are you, how long since you passed your test, & what cars have you had before the 2?
I haven't really pushed my car into corners as of yet, but I would suggest making sure that all the tyres are good and the tyre pressures are also correctly set.
Snap oversteer was mainly an issue on the mk2, although due to our cars still being mid engined its still an issue but I believe Toyota dialled the handling out to be more likely to understeer.
I am planning on booking my car into a local track day (my local track is Bedford which has HUGE run off areas) - there are also wet handling days as well - might be worth looking at those at some point so you can find the limits of the car.
I am basically taking things the same as a previous, more powerful RWD car - brake in a straight line coming up to the corner, smooth steering, don't lift throttle mid corner and only accelerate when you know you won't need to lift anymore.
How does your car handle - does it not feel planted, does it feel light or 'wobbly' - might just need some alignment done or a refresh of suspension.
I think yours is a very sensible approach. The roads are not for racing, race tracks are. Those are also where you should seek the limits of your car and your bravery.
These cars under steer before anything else.
Tyre pressures?
Age of tyres?
Make model and size of tyres across all 4 wheels?
Date of last 4 wheel alignment?
That will do for starters.
Before we start to question the suspension or your driving ability.
They're very easy to drive tbh.
Quote from: almitch1 on March 9, 2021, 14:45Hi Everyone,
I have an issue, when im out driving my MR2 i struggle to keep up with everyday cars round corners etc etc. I have only had the car a short time and have read loads of posts about ending up in ditches and snap back over steer situations so i dont know if im being to scared to drive it normally or if the car has issues at the front which makes it handle badly.
Every corner i go round im worried i will loose the back, probably just me not knowing the cars characteristics and it will come with time but i'm not sure.
What are you r thoughts etc.
Thanks
The horror stories are basically all echos from the Mk2 by poor journalism. Even the Mk.2 was not bad btw. The only ´issue´ was that it was a mid engined car available at hot hatch price.
Any potential handling/roadholding limits of a well sorted Spyder are way, WAY beyond the level of everyday cars round corners.
After checking what Schott mentionend I suggest you find an experienced owner close to you to try if your example has an issue or whether it is simply a matter of getting accustomed to it.
The MR2's forte is going faster around corners than every day cars, so sounds like something maybe a miss. If the car is mechanically sound, has OE alignment specs with decent tyres it should inspire confidence to push on, even in the hands of a novice.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on March 9, 2021, 14:57Maybe a little background might help;- how old are you, how long since you passed your test, & what cars have you had before the 2?
I am 40, been drving for 21 years and had;
Golf gti
Audi TT
Merc cla
etc
Quote from: almitch1 on March 9, 2021, 15:25Quote from: Gaz mr-s on March 9, 2021, 14:57Maybe a little background might help;- how old are you, how long since you passed your test, & what cars have you had before the 2?
I am 40, been drving for 21 years and had;
Golf gti
Audi TT
Merc cla
etc
Where in East Sussex?
Mercedes and Audis are usually pretty heavy the mr2 is pretty different to most cars.
Unless you've been driving Lotus .
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 9, 2021, 15:33Where in East Sussex?
The best approach indeed.
The first thing I would do is get your car assessed by a local member so you can bring it to a baseline of what should be normal but in the mean time take some of the advise of air pressure adjustment and get an aligment. Diagnosing without knowing the current condition of the car is difficult to pin point the problem as its probably not you, its the car. I have assessed many owners cars in various conditions and found all kinds of significant issues the owner was not aware of and they also told me that they feared the car.
After a baseline is established and you still feel this way just know it takes time to adjust to the handling of any car regardless of the layout but a car with a rear weight bias can be a handful at the limits.
What kind of tires are on the car now? condition?
are they a matched set?
Check the date codes to see how old they are.
@almitch1 Sorry but I checked your posts and notice that you didn't come in via the Newcomers Route. That means you weren't bombarded with the list of the most important things to check on your car.
Right up there at number 1 is tyres and pressures.
Simplest check assuming you have the OE size tyres, with a reasonable same brand on each axle / all around ( currently a point of discussion) is to check the pressures are OE as can be checked iirc on a sticker in the glove box.
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 9, 2021, 15:33Quote from: almitch1 on March 9, 2021, 15:25Quote from: Gaz mr-s on March 9, 2021, 14:57Maybe a little background might help;- how old are you, how long since you passed your test, & what cars have you had before the 2?
I am 40, been drving for 21 years and had;
Golf gti
Audi TT
Merc cla
etc
Where in East Sussex?
Mercedes and Audis are usually pretty heavy the mr2 is pretty different to most cars.
Unless you've been driving Lotus .
Im in Crowborough.
Quote from: Dev on March 9, 2021, 15:39can be a handful at the limits.
With the in this case paramount fear reducing caveat that with a well sorted OEM Spyder these limits are WAY beyond ´every day cars´.
Dont rush it. It takes time to learn what the car can do and gain confidence in it. You are right to drive to the limit of your current confidence.
As you havent had it long then there could be issues with it that you havent found yet.
These are all old cars now and say 20 years ago, cars of this age would have mostly been scrapped, not kept on the road and expected to drive as new!
Have a look on the forum for posts about poor handling to get an idea of what has come up before.
Meeting other owners is a good idea when this is possible again.
If your car is all good then I would expect it to corner better than typical cars in the dry but be slower in the wet!
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 9, 2021, 15:13These cars under steer before anything else.
Tyre pressures?
Age of tyres?
Make model and size of tyres across all 4 wheels?
Date of last 4 wheel alignment?
That will do for starters.
Before we start to question the suspension or your driving ability.
They're very easy to drive tbh.
Hi my tyre pressure are 26psi front and 32 psi rears.
The tyres aren't the best i think they are cheapo's but i will get them changed soon i also have a set of the 2003 onwards alloys that i may fit to it.
I cant tell you when it las had an alignment done as the last owner didn't tell me and i have only had the car for 6 weeks.
I guess i am worries that i spend £400 on new rubber and 80 on an alignment to then find out i need to spend another large amount on suspension etc.
I've had similar situations. One thing to remember is that the Roadster's capability comes largely from its balance and the driver's ability to harness that. It's not exactly the most powerful car in the world so all of its prowess sits in its handling.
It's very "connected" to the driver.
To enable that, certain things have to be spot on. There are no electronics to help you, not at all. ABS is the only technology at your disposal. This is what a lot of people struggle with, coming from cars with ESP, TRC, etc etc. Platforms like the Golf and TT are very very electronically aided. They even have corner balancing using the brakes. A lot of people don't know this (it's called XDS). You now have your right foot and hands, and likely an limited slip differential to help keep you in line.
Tyres have to be spot on, right pressure, stick with stock sizes and a single make across all 4 tyres. Once you're comfortable you can play around a bit with that.
Suspension will be getting tired. Not sure how many miles your car has done but suspension will start to be past its best (but still absolutely driveable and safe) after 65k.
Once you get to 100k, it's definitely a case of handling being negatively impacted by the state of the shocks.
Then there's the obvious fact that it's rear wheel driven, mid-engine.
Your feeling of discomfort is likely the odd feeling of being pushed as opposed to being pulled. It feels very different on a corner.
You're doing the right thing. Get used to it slowly and slowly crank it up.
Respect the car and yourself. It won't save you, but it'll do exactly what you tell it to.
Also remember that if you're having fun with other cars on the road, they've got computers making thousands of calculations per second to keep them on the road. They are likely to be faster, as they're more powerful. The drivers can get away with murder, the car will correct it.
Once you get the hang of the 2 though... I've definitely given a Porsche Boxter a run for its money.
Quote from: almitch1 on March 9, 2021, 15:51The tyres aren't the best i think they are cheapo's but i will get them changed soon i also have a set of the 2003 onwards alloys that i may fit to it.
Best leave the OEM sizes on for the time being.
Good premium tyres are paramont. For the most predictable/conform OEM best 4 the same all round.
Quote from: shnazzle on March 9, 2021, 15:57Once you get the hang of the 2 though... I've definitely given a Porsche Boxter a run for its money.
Oh dear, proper driving does not include such Patrick :-)
This itsybitsy spyder is as you say very connected with the driver and the feed back together with the balance means it cán be driven like preciously few other cars.
Again as you write this can be a challenge in these days of a plethora of driver correcting electronics.
This car should imo be seen as a wonderful classic car.
Back to the OP though, as was pointed out it is a 20 y.o. car and may have ánything worn out leading to indeed weird behavior.
Ok, I really appreciate your help and advice on this.
I have just had a look at the wheels and tyres in more detail and it seems that mine are all over the shop. I have 195/55.15 on all 4 corners and the alloys are after market so from what i can see there rear alloys are that same width as the fronts.
From what i understand the fronts should be 6 and the rears 6.5? Would i be better off putting the 2004 mr2 mk3 alloys on it and getting new tyres for them?
Looks like i might ,e getting somewhere... Thanks again and more advice is greatly received.
Alan
Quote from: almitch1 on March 9, 2021, 16:22Ok, I really appreciate your help and advice on this.
I have just had a look at the wheels and tyres in more detail and it seems that mine are all over the shop. I have 195/55.15 on all 4 corners and the alloys are after market so from what i can see there rear alloys are that same width as the fronts.
From what i understand the fronts should be 6 and the rears 6.5? Would i be better off putting the 2004 mr2 mk3 alloys on it and getting new tyres for them?
Looks like i might ,e getting somewhere... Thanks again and more advice is greatly received.
Alan
A square setup of all 195 could make it twitchy.
Use the set of FL ( face lift 2003 on ) alloys you have and get something half decent on them.
Aftermarket wheels on these cars are imho for the most part rubbish especially if over 16".
Crowborough is 45 mins from me.
On a side note:
Being 40 means at max having a drivers license for 22.
That is neither young nor inexperienced yet this was when the Spyder´s design was already finalised.
The MR2 mk3 is an even for 20th C. specs. pretty basic sports cabrio.
If you´d prepare one for the unpaved you could enter an early one in the Dakar Classis class...
By Jóve how time flies :-O
Quote from: almitch1 on March 9, 2021, 16:22From what i understand the fronts should be 6 and the rears 6.5? Would i be better off putting the 2004 mr2 mk3 alloys on it and getting new tyres for them?
Yes, a whole LOT!
OEM spec rubber.
Quote from: Petrus on March 9, 2021, 16:33On a side note:
Being 40 means at max having a drivers license for 22.
That is neither young nor inexperienced yet this was when the Spyder´s design was already finalised.
The MR2 mk3 is an even for 20th C. specs. pretty basic sports cabrio.
If you´d prepare one for the unpaved you could enter an early one in the Dakar Classis class...
By Jóve how time flies :-O
Do they allow supercharged V6s?
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 9, 2021, 16:30Quote from: almitch1 on March 9, 2021, 16:22Ok, I really appreciate your help and advice on this.
I have just had a look at the wheels and tyres in more detail and it seems that mine are all over the shop. I have 195/55.15 on all 4 corners and the alloys are after market so from what i can see there rear alloys are that same width as the fronts.
From what i understand the fronts should be 6 and the rears 6.5? Would i be better off putting the 2004 mr2 mk3 alloys on it and getting new tyres for them?
Looks like i might ,e getting somewhere... Thanks again and more advice is greatly received.
Alan
A square setup of all 195 could make it twitchy.
Use the set of FL ( face lift 2003 on ) alloys you have and get something half decent on them.
Aftermarket wheels on these cars are imho for the most part rubbish especially if over 16".
Crowborough is 45 mins from me.
Ok will do... I'm happy to travel 45 mins if you can take a look over my car... i have messaged you.
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 9, 2021, 16:35Do they allow supercharged V6s?
Don´t know the in/outs of the classic class regs. but if the engine is period it is most likely they will.
What tyres would be recommended? I ant to make sure i get the best that my budget can afford which is around £250-£300 for all 4, of is this to little to get a decent set?
Thanks
Quote from: almitch1 on March 9, 2021, 17:04What tyres would be recommended? I ant to make sure i get the best that my budget can afford which is around £250-£300 for all 4, of is this to little to get a decent set?
Thanks
Very decent set. There's a tyre review page you cna visit on here, but I'm sure people will weigh in soon :)
Quote from: shnazzle on March 9, 2021, 17:08Quote from: almitch1 on March 9, 2021, 17:04What tyres would be recommended? I ant to make sure i get the best that my budget can afford which is around £250-£300 for all 4, of is this to little to get a decent set?
Thanks
Very decent set. There's a tyre review page you cna visit on here, but I'm sure people will weigh in soon :)
Avon ZV7s seem to be available in the correct size.
Mixed set of Uniroyal 5 and 3
Possibly Toyo TR1
NangKang NS20 maybe
Sizes are hard to get these days
195 sqaure, 55 profile sidewall with ditch finder tyres will make a 2 handle like shit!
Throw the FL wheels on and there should be a massive difference if they have OE spec or similar size tyres fitted.
Quote from: JB21 on March 9, 2021, 20:50195 sqaure, 55 profile sidewall with ditch finder tyres will make a 2 handle like poopoo!
Throw the FL wheels on and there should be a massive difference if they have OE spec or similar size tyres fitted.
But yours is a pre-fl. W-reg?
Should be 15s all around. But still different sizes front and back.
Quote from: shnazzle on March 9, 2021, 20:51Quote from: JB21 on March 9, 2021, 20:50195 sqaure, 55 profile sidewall with ditch finder tyres will make a 2 handle like poopoo!
Throw the FL wheels on and there should be a massive difference if they have OE spec or similar size tyres fitted.
But yours is a pre-fl. W-reg?
Should be 15s all around. But still different sizes front and back.
Hey? I'm quoting the OPs tyre sizes currently fitted to his car.
Quote from: shnazzle on March 9, 2021, 20:51Quote from: JB21 on March 9, 2021, 20:50195 sqaure, 55 profile sidewall with ditch finder tyres will make a 2 handle like poopoo!
Throw the FL wheels on and there should be a massive difference if they have OE spec or similar size tyres fitted.
But yours is a pre-fl. W-reg?
Should be 15s all around. But still different sizes front and back.
You are right but it has aftermarket alloys on it currently which are the same width front and back so you can't put the right size tyres on it.
But you have some OEM facelift wheels? I'm so confused haha.
Quote from: shnazzle on March 9, 2021, 21:31But you have some OEM facelift wheels? I'm so confused haha.
Loads of people put FL wheels on pfl cars.
Don't get it myself having tried both oem sizes I like the smaller ones better.
More drama 🙄
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 9, 2021, 21:33Quote from: shnazzle on March 9, 2021, 21:31But you have some OEM facelift wheels? I'm so confused haha.
Loads of people put FL wheels on pfl cars.
Don't get it myself having tried both oem sizes I like the smaller ones better.
More drama 🙄
Well I'll be damned. Been hanging around here since 2012 I think and never knew people did that...
Makes sense I guess. Why not. Weren't the springs slightly different to accommodate the 16s?
Quote from: shnazzle on March 9, 2021, 21:31But you have some OEM facelift wheels? I'm so confused haha.
I'm lost... lol I was just asking if fl wheels would be better that the after markets I have on it now. The fl alloys are in the garage so can go straight on.
Quote from: almitch1 on March 9, 2021, 21:41Quote from: shnazzle on March 9, 2021, 21:31But you have some OEM facelift wheels? I'm so confused haha.
I'm lost... lol I was just asking if fl wheels would be better that the after markets I have on it now. The fl alloys are in the garage so can go straight on.
Ah right! Then yes absolutely. If it's a choice between square setup aftermarkets and FLs... Put the FLs on for sure
I did a post & the damn thing disappeared....grr.
My tuppence-worth......
If you like the 15" aftermarket alloys you might be able to get a narrow fit front tyre & a wide rear to give the front-rear stagger. Will depend too on whether you can get get a tyre you want.
I look at tyre tests. The Avon is old & doesn't fare well. I thought the Rainsport 5 was available in FL sizes, but not that I can see tonight. Covid or Brexit has led to lack of supply & prices have gone up.
Two tyres that do fare well that can be had in FL sizes are Falken ZE310 & Hankook K125.
Hankook from Camskill are £282 for the set.
Falken, fronts from Demon Tweeks £55 each. Rears on ebay £74.
Demon Tweeks are quite often featured in deals on ebay....maybe they'll have the rears then.
Some folk buy with a fitting deal included in the price. Some folk use Groupon & the like to help too.
@almitch1 I feel you already knew the answer.
It all comes down to wine tokens. (more commonly known as £s)
There are very very few after market rims that are better than stock. That combined with the mis mash of rubber in the wrong sizes. Ditch them, before they ditch you.
Given you have set of FL stock rims ready to go. Get some fresh rubber on those and get them fitted.
I appreciate there is a whole heap of info and advice flying in your direction and all you want is to get a happy handling 2. But, and it's a big unnecessary but. Out of curiosity Whilst you are swapping rims and tyres about.
Try to weigh the after market combo vs the oem combo.
I know thats way down the list.
It's just nice to know and I would be extremely surprised if the aftermarket combo is lighter than stock.
Which will bring its own benefits to the equation.
A 2 in the twisties, should be something to be sought, not avoided.
Standard FL wheels back on with a decent set of tyres, in the correct OEM size (or as close as you can find) and im sure the car will feel much better.
Fronts should be 185/55/15.
Rears 215/45/16.
Tyre brands are difficult to advise on imo. One person will say this, another says ooo not them!
My advice is any decent brand you've heard of will be just fine.
Also, good laser alignment will no doubt be well worth doing.
Quote from: Iain on March 10, 2021, 06:49Tyre brands are difficult to advise on imo. One person will say this, another says ooo not them!
Most like the Yokohama AD08R(s) in all but very cccóld weather. Even then they are still linear in their grip thus predictable.
I find them worth the expense because of the wide traction ´hump´ and predictability.
Came back just now and though sunny it is 13 degrees C. and colder in the shade. The bandwidth in which the rubber starts to give and lineary slides more and more as you push is só reassuring. They simply do nót just let go.
I'm not too far either..
Happy to have a look at it as well..
I've had all three mr2s since 2000..
I also have here's well set up daily mk3 and a track spec mk3 which is road legal
Both of which I can take you out in.. (when allowed)
I'm down basically New Romney (tn29)
Quote from: almitch1 on March 9, 2021, 16:22Ok, I really appreciate your help and advice on this.
I have just had a look at the wheels and tyres in more detail and it seems that mine are all over the shop. I have 195/55.15 on all 4 corners and the alloys are after market so from what i can see there rear alloys are that same width as the fronts.
From what i understand the fronts should be 6 and the rears 6.5? Would i be better off putting the 2004 mr2 mk3 alloys on it and getting new tyres for them?
Looks like i might ,e getting somewhere... Thanks again and more advice is greatly received.
Alan
I have 195/55/15 winter tires and oem sizes advans for the summer. While the car grips very well even on damp roads with the winter tires it is not confident inspiring. That could be your problem, changing the tires is making it another car all together.
Get some new tyres fitted, check and find what rears are in stock first and then find a matching brand front pair.
I've used Demon Tweeks, Camskills, Openo and Tyreleaders to get the best prices. A budget of £250 should easily see you pick up some quality branded tyres if you shop around, it just takes a little time to find the best prices.
Once the tyres are fitted see if that makes a difference and check you suspension before having a 4 wheel alignment done. May be one of the people offering to check your car over can offer a verdict on the suspension condition? Once its confirmned to be ok then have the alignment done, no point paying twice for it.
What does the MOT history look like? Check https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/ to give you an idea of the previous issues and any concerns relating to suspension.
If the previous owner has put cheap tyres on it I suspect its not been loved much.
Quote from: pistol pete on March 13, 2021, 08:27I'm not too far either..
Happy to have a look at it as well..
I've had all three mr2s since 2000..
I also have here's well set up daily mk3 and a track spec mk3 which is road legal
Both of which I can take you out in.. (when allowed)
I'm down basically New Romney (tn29)
Nice,
Sounds ideal
Quote from: Mark A on March 14, 2021, 11:03Get some new tyres fitted, check and find what rears are in stock first and then find a matching brand front pair.
I've used Demon Tweeks, Camskills, Openo and Tyreleaders to get the best prices. A budget of £250 should easily see you pick up some quality branded tyres if you shop around, it just takes a little time to find the best prices.
Once the tyres are fitted see if that makes a difference and check you suspension before having a 4 wheel alignment done. May be one of the people offering to check your car over can offer a verdict on the suspension condition? Once its confirmned to be ok then have the alignment done, no point paying twice for it.
What does the MOT history look like? Check https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/ to give you an idea of the previous issues and any concerns relating to suspension.
If the previous owner has put cheap tyres on it I suspect its not been loved much.
Hi,
the MOT history is good, no mention of suspension issues so maybe that means its all a bit old and in need of replacing?
Thanks
Not necessarily,
I still think change the tyres, get someone with MR2 knowledge to have a look and check the condition of the suspension may be even drive the car. A suspension refresh is always beneficial, returning the car to handle similar to when it drove off the production line.
Its easier for many of on here because we can spanner and keep the costs down, parts are not expensive but labour can be. Use the advice here to help you select the best parts which are value for money and enjoy the car.
Seems to be differing advice, to recap
@almitch1 said he has aftermarket:
195/55.15 on all 4 corners and the alloys are after market so from what i can see there rear alloys are that same width as the fronts.He also has a set of FL wheels.
Advice as in #40 to remove the after market wheels, fit the FL wheels complete with some new OE size branded rubber and the car should be near where it was intended to be.
I agree, sorry I meant put some tyres on the FL alloy wheels.
Quote from: almitch1 on March 15, 2021, 10:26Nice,
Sounds ideal
Just drop me a message when you want
Hi Everyone,
A little update... My car is in the garage getting 4 new tyres fitted, i went with Toyo's in the end.
I asked them to do the 4 wheel tracking so that now all is shape, however the guy said that the front was fine no issues but with the back they only just managed to get it back between the tollerances due the arm being seized. Is it worth replacing these items or should they be ok as they are?
Thanks
Quote from: almitch1 on March 18, 2021, 16:05Hi Everyone,
A little update... My car is in the garage getting 4 new tyres fitted, i went with Toyo's in the end.
I asked them to do the 4 wheel tracking so that now all is shape, however the guy said that the front was fine no issues but with the back they only just managed to get it back between the tollerances due the arm being seized. Is it worth replacing these items or should they be ok as they are?
Thanks
That is a very odd way to put it. Its either in spec or out of spec. Its hard to imagine that the adjustment is frozen as its just an eccentric bolt unless its rusted shut.
I would replace it if that is the case because rear toe out of alignment will make the car tail happy.
If you have a copy of the alignment sheet you should post the numbers.
Eccentric bolts are very common to seize on any car. I've had plenty seize solid, and some seize partly, where I could only get half a mm or so adjustment. With the part seized items, sometimes they can be saved with lots of penetrating fluid over a few days, weeks even.
My advice is just spray them up with a decent penetrating fluid, and leave it as is. Whats the point now changing them, where you'll need to pay for alignment again. Might as well do it all in one next you need alignment if they're still seized.
Quote from: JB21 on March 18, 2021, 17:29My advice is just spray them up with a decent penetrating fluid, and leave it as is. Whats the point now changing them, where you'll need to pay for alignment again. Might as well do it all in one next you need alignment if they're still seized.
Ditto.
They are spec now so all ok.
The eccentric bolt is not a moving item in the suspension. It only moves the mount and the movement of the arm is rubber flex of the ´silent block´ inside that.
Happy driving!!
Back to your original worry; forget about the
´tail happy´ and
´snap oversteer´. Yout FL is set up on the safe side by the factory. I have an PFL which I have set up to oversteer a lot more and even then I find it neutral and needing an insenstive wollop of lod pedal to get the tail out.
Also better tyres will give you plénty of warning ánd plenty enough fun margin.
Dó rub those new tyre properly in during aquiet moment on the nearest industrial estate. Some hard, hárd brakings first to get some heat in them and ENJOY!!!!
Quote from: Dev on March 18, 2021, 17:03Quote from: almitch1 on March 18, 2021, 16:05Hi Everyone,
A little update... My car is in the garage getting 4 new tyres fitted, i went with Toyo's in the end.
I asked them to do the 4 wheel tracking so that now all is shape, however the guy said that the front was fine no issues but with the back they only just managed to get it back between the tollerances due the arm being seized. Is it worth replacing these items or should they be ok as they are?
Thanks
That is a very odd way to put it. Its either in spec or out of spec. Its hard to imagine that the adjustment is frozen as its just an eccentric bolt unless its rusted shut.
I would replace it if that is the case because rear toe out of alignment will make the car tail happy.
If you have a copy of the alignment sheet you should post the numbers.
It's that UK weather and salt again
@Dev very common over here I've had some very reputable alignment shops who haven't been able to sort out the rear.
In fact sometimes you need to bin the subframe to sort it although this is very rare.
More good news, hopefully it will feel safer and more planted on the tarmac rather than wanting to spit you into every ditch. Don't forget to let the tyres scrub in a little before it will be at its best. The parts described as giving you the alignment problems should be soaked in WD40 type stuff and eventually replaced with either new or good condition second hand items, Dick Sloane will have some I'm sure. Remember it's only the nuts that undo and tap the bolts out, may be change the rear arms while you've got the eccentric bolts off but may be hold off for a couple of months before tackling that job
OMG... So i have collected my car from he garage this morning and taken it for a spin.. I can't believe the difference new and "proper" rubber can make to the way the car feels.
I've fallen in love!!
Quote from: almitch1 on March 19, 2021, 12:12OMG... So i have collected my car from he garage this morning and taken it for a spin.. I can't believe the difference new and "proper" rubber can make to the way the car feels.
I've fallen in love!!
Some people really give us a hard time and fight this suggestion.
To be fair, the MR2 is particularly sensitive to tyres. It's just such a finely balanced little thing.
Can't be compared in any way to a big front wheel drive car.
Glad you love it :)
She wants to show off her new shoes.A01C7F3A-F6E9-4BFA-8A16-21771E33ED7A.jpegj K
Quote from: almitch1 on March 19, 2021, 12:12OMG... So i have collected my car from he garage this morning and taken it for a spin.. I can't believe the difference new and "proper" rubber can make to the way the car feels.
I've fallen in love!!
I remember my first one and how good it felt on old yoko 43.
It then felt better on toyo t1r.
And Jesus does if feel good on AD08R.
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 19, 2021, 12:27And Jesus does if feel good on AD08R.
Só predictable with a wíííde traction hump; even when you are on the other side it does not dróp off.
Quote from: almitch1 on March 19, 2021, 12:12OMG... So i have collected my car from he garage this morning and taken it for a spin.. I can't believe the difference new and "proper" rubber can make to the way the car feels.
I've fallen in love!!
Boom!
Another chalk mark on the board for matching tyres.
Reading that, made my day. Welcome to the club. :)
Edit
Now get out there, with the lid DOWN and enjoy.
Quote from: 1979scotte on March 18, 2021, 18:48Quote from: Dev on March 18, 2021, 17:03Quote from: almitch1 on March 18, 2021, 16:05Hi Everyone,
A little update... My car is in the garage getting 4 new tyres fitted, i went with Toyo's in the end.
I asked them to do the 4 wheel tracking so that now all is shape, however the guy said that the front was fine no issues but with the back they only just managed to get it back between the tollerances due the arm being seized. Is it worth replacing these items or should they be ok as they are?
Thanks
That is a very odd way to put it. Its either in spec or out of spec. Its hard to imagine that the adjustment is frozen as its just an eccentric bolt unless its rusted shut.
I would replace it if that is the case because rear toe out of alignment will make the car tail happy.
If you have a copy of the alignment sheet you should post the numbers.
It's that UK weather and salt again @Dev very common over here I've had some very reputable alignment shops who haven't been able to sort out the rear.
In fact sometimes you need to bin the subframe to sort it although this is very rare.
Had to write off my subframe a month ago because of this... I had major trouble getting the arm out of the subframe. Actually, the arm is on the bench with the bolt still in it. I used an angle grinder to rip apart both bolt and subframe to recover the arm. The bolt and bushing will probably come out of the arm in one piece as they're completely rusted solid.
The subframe was also rusted through near the exhaust pipe so it was time to replace anyway, but beware. It might be good to take things out to do some preventative maintenance.
Glad you sorted things out, now enjoy!