I want to check for rust etc in the frunck under the plastics so obviously be easier with the spare wheel holder removed.
Can I just disconnect the alarm and when finished reconnect and all good or can I cause myself problems ?
Thanks
It unbolts and unplugs. It can be a bit of a faff getting the connector through the whole in the frunk, but it does go through.
If you unplug the alarm & wrestle the big grommet from the frunk, cut a couple of cable ties, you can relocate it on the nearside area. I use the top corner against the bulkhead. It also alows the spare wheel to be inverted, giving more room in the frunk. But you do have to do something re the spare wheel's fixing bolt thread.
@TheTigerUK I believe your concern is with the electrical features of the alarm in disconnecting and reconnecting. Having done this several times I have had no such problem.
Quote from: Joesson on February 25, 2022, 22:28@TheTigerUK
I believe your concern is with the electrical features of the alarm in disconnecting and reconnecting. Having done this several times I have had no such problem.
Thanks Tony, the electrics were my concern I dident want to upset the alarm.
Does the alarm keep clean/dry etc after the move ?
I think there's a dirty great big capacitor in the system so be prepared for the alarm to go off a little bit even with the battery disconnected.
And boy do they go off when they do.
Ear splitting.
I have relocated my alarm to the underside of one of the metal arms above the headlight. This means I can drive without a frunk at all or take the frunk out without having to unplug the alarm (can be a bit awkward, especially the first time).
The alarm move is a great mod to do as the alarm is much louder and extra storage space! The alarm may beep for a few seconds when you unplug it.
Quote from: Topdownman on February 26, 2022, 07:08I have relocated my alarm to the underside of one of the metal arms above the headlight. This means I can drive without a frunk at all or take the frunk out without having to unplug the alarm (can be a bit awkward, especially the first time).
The alarm move is a great mod to do as the alarm is much louder and extra storage space! The alarm may beep for a few seconds when you unplug it.
Thank you.
All fairly straight forward.
One thing to watch for after you unplug the alarm unit. If it then carries on sounding while disconnected, you've activated the self- destruct sequence.
Quickly launch it into your neighbour's garden & act like your just changing your steering UJ.
Quote from: cptspaulding on February 26, 2022, 09:42Quickly launch it into your neighbour's garden & act like your just changing your steering UJ.
After I pulled the plug it did beep a couple of times so I took your advice and threw it quickly, nothing happened but now he won't give it me back !! :)
After stripping the plastics and removing the bin it wasent really a pretty sight that greeted me but I did expect it.
I cleaned and oiled quite a lot of it under there but a lot more needs doing, replacing bolts/nuts with stainless, cleaning, treating rust with Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 as per Carolyyne's recommendation and then repainting areas that need it, it was actually good fun to get under there.
I thought about moving the alarm but for me no great gain so I will leave it were it is.
Do some of the 2's have two fans ? why all the spare tubes ?
ps: Sorry about all the photo's but in the watch game you learn to take LOTS of photo's :)
(https://i.imgur.com/9MuJ0ZP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iOqDPPW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zui4W8x.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1IlJs5W.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jbgjgCL.jpg)
I've seen much worse. Not too bad at all. Two fans are for cars with aircon. The clear plastic tubes are for use when bleeding the cooling system (one is attached to the bleed point for the heater).
Get in there with wire brushes, as much as you can. Those power steering tubes especially need de-rusting and treating.
The two steel 'straps that the frunk bolts too are best removed so they can be cleaned and painted on both sides.
All very satisfying little jobs!
Quote from: Carolyn on February 26, 2022, 19:20I've seen much worse.
+1 - generally speaking not bad, but the p/s pipes are worse than I have personally come across. :o
Alarm move......don't know why you didn't do it....much simpler to get into the area.
U/j looks good too. Strange how they age differently.
You might want to undo the mounting brackets & take the abs cradle off. Well known for falling to bits. They were improved by Toyota later on. 2004 or later. ??
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on February 26, 2022, 20:45+1 - generally speaking not bad, but the p/s pipes are worse than I have personally come across. :o
Alarm move......don't know why you didn't do it....much simpler to get into the area.
U/j looks good too. Strange how they age differently.
You might want to undo the mounting brackets & take the abs cradle off. Well known for falling to bits. They were improved by Toyota later on. 2004 or later. ??
Thanks, I assume you remove the bracket from the alarm ? I might still move it because like you say if i'm in and out the frunk often it will save a little time.
Which is the abs cradle ? :)
Just remove the alarm from the bracket, drill through the 2 welds to leave a U shaped bracket which you put the alarm back on after you have fixed it in your chosen location. You can put it on the outside of the frunk but this means you still have to unplug it if taking the frunk out. I prefer fixing it to the car to make life easier. That way you never need touch it again.
Quote from: TheTigerUK on February 26, 2022, 21:01Thanks, I assume you remove the bracket from the alarm ? I might still move it because like you say if i'm in and out the frunk often it will save a little time.
Which is the abs cradle ? :)
I do, & cable-tie the alarm. If you keep the screw-fixings in place, you can use those to put the cable-ties around.
abs cradle, really? The square box that loads of brake pipes go into is the abs pump. The cradle is what I call the thing that supports it. Often, they literally fall to bits.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on February 26, 2022, 21:57abs cradle, really?
Not a car guy :)
Now if you ask me about the oscillating weight on a 6105 on a A or B movement or the magic finger, even the cannon pinion on the 6139 chrono etc I would know :)
It all depends how far you want to go with your preventative/rejuvenation works? The spring clamps on the water hoses look like they're ready to rust through some of the hoses but to replace them you're going to lose some coolant.
If you're losing SOME coolant and needing to purge the system you might as well refresh ALL the coolant.
And then the costs and technical difficulties increase.
Same as with taking the ABS pump bracket off to clean and paint, it's worth doing but near on impossible without dropping the steering rack out of the way or disconnecting the brake lines and removing the pump...
Can be worth the effort though.
Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 27, 2022, 07:16Same as with taking the ABS pump bracket off to clean and paint, it's worth doing but near on impossible without dropping the steering rack out of the way or disconnecting the brake lines and removing the pump...
Can be worth the effort though.
Umm, I don't remember it being difficult. I might have had the p/s pump off though, which is how I noticed the abs cradle was as bad as it was. So access would have been easier.
Iirc
@TheTigerUK 's radiator was replaced in recent times, maybe also the coolant so as said above costs come into play if changing those hose clips. They can be removed and manhandled or carefully cut, with some degree of difficulty without removing the hose and the Jubilee type clips opened out and fitted. Doable, but! Was the coolant replaced with Long Life product? If not perhaps time to empty, flush and replace and change the clips.
I managed to remove the ABS bracket and replaced the rusted through bottom section without disconnecting the fittings necessitating bleeding or dropping the steering rack. But again, when was the brake fluid changed?
While in that area the Power steering fluid has been in there for 20 years, time for a flush and change?
Degrees of difficulty?
Power steering fluid change is the easiest.But check and then derust the piping first.
Brake bleeding, with a split tube gadget, is a one man job, needs the car to be elevated.
Removing hose clips in situ, not so much difficult as awkward, much easier if done when changing the coolant .
Changing the coolant, I found persistence with flushing worthwhile and after determining what the system held and getting that much fluid back in was not so time consuming at my second time of doing that job.
Costs?
I used Ravenol products. April '21 prices: 5L OTC concentrated coolant. £19.95
Power steering fluid 2x1L @ £13.45, still have some left.
Shipping and VAT brought cost to £53.75. Also bought some deionised water from Tesco, same price as chips, to premix the coolant.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on February 27, 2022, 09:28Umm, I don't remember it being difficult. I might have had the p/s pump off though, which is how I noticed the abs cradle was as bad as it was. So access would have been easier.
I tried when I did mine, only way to do it without removing the pump is to lower it away and it doesn't clear the rack/uj, not without straightening the mounting points and losing a lot of paint 🤓
Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 27, 2022, 10:47I tried when I did mine, only way to do it without removing the pump is to lower it away and it doesn't clear the rack/uj, not without straightening the mounting points and losing a lot of paint 🤓
You're probably meaning 'arms' rather than points....I probably did. I think I have one less fixing-point than originally used. Enough to stop the assembly 'dancing'.