Rear subframe is getting rusty and coming close to MOT failure.
Whats the most cost effective way to source these nowadays?
Quick search says mr2ben is about £400 and some used ones for around £200-250 on eBay.
Quote from: B_Tank88 on March 22, 2022, 12:29Rear subframe is getting rusty and coming close to MOT failure.
Whats the most cost effective way to source these nowadays?
Quick search says mr2ben is about £400 and some used ones for around £200-250 on eBay.
Don't ever use mr2ben to gauge prices. They're pricey at best.
Check with your local Toyots dealer. People have been getting them brand new for about 250
TCB performance parts are often competitive on subframes too.
Quote from: B_Tank88 on March 22, 2022, 12:29Rear subframe is getting rusty and coming close to MOT failure.
Whats the most cost effective way to source these nowadays?
Quick search says mr2ben is about £400 and some used ones for around £200-250 on eBay.
I'd be interested to hear how you get on, I'll be looking for one too soon. Genuine Toyota one for £250 sounds like the best option.
Just as an alternative option, many people have had them patched/welded up depending on how bad they are and how you feel about repair rather than replace...
Quote from: Call the midlife! on March 22, 2022, 14:08Just as an alternative option, many people have had them patched/welded up depending on how bad they are and how you feel about repair rather than replace...
Any ideas on the cost of this vs. getting a new subframe?
Not really other than it would probably be cheaper, depending on who or what you know 🤓
I've got one in the greenhouse I took off mine that's a prime candidate for a plate welded on as a spare.
BUT I've got access to a welder and someone who can weld and plenty of steel lying around at work.
If it's on one of the angles like yours then it might not even be a suitable candidate or be in the double figures for welding anyway.
The majority of people who have them welded are similar to me or can weld themselves.
I've got one in the greenhouse
Hoping they will grow?
So far:
Genuine from Toyota = £360 + vat
TCB is £211.00 + VAT with delivery at £10.00 + VAT
From what I've read TCB is the 'ONLY' place to get one unless you have a liking for paying more. Some treatment of it before fitting, & it will last the life of the car. Or try J spec for a used. Probably a waiting list though.
{Edit] - as B-tank as just stated.
Quote from: J88TEO on March 22, 2022, 15:24I've got one in the greenhouse
Hoping they will grow?
I'm running out of room for storing parts 😂
What do people do about lower control arms, trailing arms etc. - just re-use?
I bought a new subframe last year because it was going cheap (£200 all in) and now plan to get it fitted sometime soon. However from casually observing the components around it, they look so far gone that I can already envisage something not coming off.
I made an enquiry with Mr T and, although parts still available, prices are prohibitive. Aftermarket stuff is equally as pricey obviously, plus I don't need them to be adjustable. I am keeping an eye out for secondhand but that again is going to be pot luck.
not done it myself, (mental work in progress)
there is the super pro option for the bushes.
Quote from: ManInDandism on March 22, 2022, 17:53What do people do about lower control arms, trailing arms etc. - just re-use?
Removed, sandblasted, powdercoated, polybushed then refitted.
Not cheap, but will last forever.
Is there a reasonably decent guide anywhere for removing the subframe? Some of the bolts look.. Interesting... To get to.
Never mind, found it: https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=42248;sslRedirect#p496967 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=42248;sslRedirect#p496967)
I finally removed mine today. I must say that the surface protection of screws, bracket etc. is a joke. All the bolts and nuts are corroded like hell and I had to use raw force on almost all of them. Engine and gearbox mounts are corroded heavily as well as all the metal parts on the clutch line. Rear calipers have been replaced 4 years ago from the previous owner. The car was not driven in winter since then but they have a very crunchy surface. The funny thing is that the bodywork itself is just fine for an almost 20yo car. Now I am going to sandblast all the suspension parts and repaint them, polybushes are already here. But first I have to get the old rubbers out. Will be fun I guess.
Quote from: ralf321 on March 24, 2022, 18:32I finally removed mine today. I must say that the surface protection of screws, bracket etc. is a joke. All the bolts and nuts are corroded like hell and I had to use raw force on almost all of them. Engine and gearbox mounts are corroded heavily as well as all the metal parts on the clutch line. Rear calipers have been replaced 4 years ago from the previous owner. The car was not driven in winter since then but they have a very crunchy surface. The funny thing is that the bodywork itself is just fine for an almost 20yo car. Now I am going to sandblast all the suspension parts and repaint them, polybushes are already here. But first I have to get the old rubbers out. Will be fun I guess.
I found my impact wrench did a great job and I just needed brute force in places it couldn't reach. A lot of my components are corroded fairly badly but they also seem solid. I'm not polybushing just yet as the bushes seem just about fine at the moment.
Overall though, not too bad a job once you know what you're doing.
Today I removed the old rubbers in order to get the arms ready for sandblasting. Worked well with a piece of pipe, some washers and nuts + a gas torch. I am still struggling to remove the ABS-sensors from the hubs. Screws are out, but the sensors do not move at all. I am afraid of damaging them since it is all plastic. Any tips other than spraying ?
Replace new? LOL
Only way is to soak them and try.
Quote from: ralf321 on March 28, 2022, 20:51Today I removed the old rubbers in order to get the arms ready for sandblasting. Worked well with a piece of pipe, some washers and nuts + a gas torch. I am still struggling to remove the ABS-sensors from the hubs. Screws are out, but the sensors do not move at all. I am afraid of damaging them since it is all plastic. Any tips other than spraying ?
Leave them in if they're not already broken, pretty much guarantee if you get them out you won't be putting them back in...
update:
ABS sensors: no way to get them out, I did not know that plastic can be welded to metal. Another €60.-. At least the hubs are off now. From six screws for the brake shields 4 snapped.
Wheel bearings: On one side, the clip for the bearing was completely stuck and broke when I tried to get it out. Lots of soaking and trying to free it by using a hammer drill. 2h later it came off. My friends 10ton press was struggling, but finally the bearings were out.
Rubbers went out quite well.
Sandblasting and painting is next...
I think I'll end up ordering one from TCB soon, will have to make do with the wait.
You see, there is a risk: I just wanted to change my subframe and replace the old rubbers with polybushes. But once I started, it grew. Did not want to put new rubbers into rotten arms, derust here and paint/ powdercoat there and in the end it went further than expected and this is only the rear. Front is next...
Quote from: ralf321 on April 2, 2022, 10:05You see, there is a risk: I just wanted to change my subframe and replace the old rubbers with polybushes. But once I started, it grew. Did not want to put new rubbers into rotten arms, derust here and paint/ powdercoat there and in the end it went further than expected and this is only the rear. Front is next...
And so it goes on.
Quote from: ralf321 on April 2, 2022, 10:05You see, there is a risk: I just wanted to change my subframe and replace the old rubbers with polybushes. But once I started, it grew. Did not want to put new rubbers into rotten arms, derust here and paint/ powdercoat there and in the end it went further than expected and this is only the rear. Front is next...
Gulp :(
I had my subframe patch welded at the weekend. Is a reasonable job that will keep me going. I'm at the other end of the spectrum to
@ralf321 ... I had every intention of doing everything "properly" but all my money is going in to other things at the moment so this needs to remain cheap (for now). Putting everything back together over the next few days now.
I've just gone the whole hog, ordered and taken delivery of new arms plus a load of the nuts and bolts from Japan. I did get some prices from Mr T but as they were exorbitant, I figured importing was more cost-effective.
As
@ralf321 attests, it's a load of work refurbing and then replacing bushings - plus polybushes themselves aren't cheap and imho is a royal PITA getting the old bushings out. I concluded this from watching some YouTube videos and for me this is compounded by not having a dedicated workspace (waiting for a garage to be built having recently moved), or even the patience. Plus I'd need a few new tools just for the job.
As an indication of prices, Mr T was quoting £169.50 for Part No. 48780-17050 'Rod Assy, Strut Rear' whereas it's £44.00 on the Nengun (https://www.nengun.com/) website. Mr T also said I would need to wait for some parts to arrive from Japan! So even factoring postage and duty, it still worth the saving especially if one bundles stuff up.