I am finding gear selection slightly difficult . I changed the gearbox oil and clutch fluid 2yrs ago. The car has only done approx 2000 miles since having been Sorned in winter (I live in the west of Scotland) Should I adjust the clutch pedal ? The car is a 2003 FL and has done 59.000 mls.
Have you lubricated/cleaned and lubricated the bushes on the gearbox linkages?
Where the cables terminate at the box can get pretty filthy and make for a slow change.
When I adjusted the handbrake and the centere console was out I greased the linkages. I can check them . Thank you
Quote from: Call the midlife! on July 25, 2022, 19:14Have you lubricated/cleaned and lubricated the bushes on the gearbox linkages?
Where the cables terminate at the box can get pretty filthy and make for a slow change.
I have ball bearing type bushes on the gear box end of the linkage and when I fitted them some years ago, I did notice easier changes.
This year, when refurbishing the brakes I had the centre consul off and noticed there were several joints around the gear lever with dry looking lubricant, which I corrected. Similarly the linkage can be greased. Certainly didn't make anything worse.
PS
Noted bigtone has already done the undercover work!
Thanks Joesson, looks like a good underneath grease and check around will be a start.
Quote from: bigtone on July 25, 2022, 19:41Thanks Joesson, looks like a good underneath grease and check around will be a start.
They're on the top of the gearbox, accessed from the engine bay, probably best to take the airbox out of the way but someone else will confirm that, it's been that long since I ran with a standard airbox I can't remember what it covers...
I agree with CTM, My west coast of Scotland car had a terrible clutch/ gearchange and this was resolved with an extreme clean up and lube (the new clutch was not really needed but hey, its done now!!).
Taking the airbox out will give better access for sure.
Thats good news access from the engine bay. I will certainly give the linkages an overall tomorrow, hopefully that should do it. thhank you
Quote from: bigtone on July 25, 2022, 20:05Thats good news access from the engine bay. I will certainly give the linkages an overall tomorrow, hopefully that should do it. thhank you
A good clean up certainly won't hurt anything, followed by a good looking at that will determine if you have the OE rubber bushes at the gear box end, or if a previous owner has changed these for brass or more recently ball bearing bushes.
These solid bushings provide more positivity to the movement.
At one time the bushes were available from a Member ( Nathan) on here but I don't think he is around now, but www may provide another source.
Follow Carolyne's advise and lubed all the moving parts and now my shift is very smooth and precise. I swapped the rubber bushes with spherical plain radial bearings and solid aluminium bushes for the gear cage.
Agree with all of the above.
My 2p.
If you don't have nappies. You can also access the big linkage bits from below.
I use a couple of plastic ramps just give a but more elbow room.
Actual bushes etc from the top.
If you just spray the standard o/e bushes with wd40 or similar it can make a difference, & if it does you know it's them. The gear cables are surely teflon-like lined & probably shouldn't be lubed.
If you want to replace with bearings, they are 8x22mm & better with flanged, & in stainless. If not stainless, they rust pretty quickly.
Quote from: J88TEO on July 25, 2022, 20:30Follow Carolyne's advise and lubed all the moving parts and now my shift is very smooth and precise. I swapped the rubber bushes with spherical plain radial bearings and solid aluminium bushes for the gear cage.
I'm interested in this.... a few years ago I bought a cheap Dunlop spherical bearing. Correct size, but the external dimension was fractionally too big.... a bit of filing failed to get it in. December night-time by the time I gave up. Lots of swearing.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on July 25, 2022, 22:19If you just spray the standard o/e bushes with wd40 or similar it can make a difference, & if it does you know it's them. The gear cables are surely teflon-like lined & probably shouldn't be lubed.
If you want to replace with bearings, they are 8x22mm & better with flanged, & in stainless. If not stainless, they rust pretty quickly.
I believe that silicone grease is suitable, that is what I used on the similarly treated brake cables on my 2 and put some into the bellows outer and on the inner cable.
Quote from: Joesson on July 25, 2022, 22:36I believe that silicone grease is suitable, that is what I used on the similarly treated brake cables on my 2 and put some into the bellows outer and on the inner cable.
Based on what? I've lubed my handbrake cables too, because I had to. But if the rubber boot lasted the same as the car, they wouldn't get lubed because there's a liner.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on July 25, 2022, 22:29I'm interested in this.... a few years ago I bought a cheap Dunlop spherical bearing. Correct size, but the external dimension was fractionally too big.... a bit of filing failed to get it in. December night-time by the time I gave up. Lots of swearing.
I removed the airbox and the hose etc. That gave me a lot of room to work on sanding the shifter cables. A box socket underneath and another on top and a small hammer did the job. Lubed with silicon grease and that's it. Compare to my other 2 with unmodded bushings and standard shifter the difference is massively felt.
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on July 25, 2022, 22:47Based on what? I've lubed my handbrake cables too, because I had to. But if the rubber boot lasted the same as the car, they wouldn't get lubed because there's a liner.
My brake cables were moving quite freely, the rubber bellows were in good condition and the cable coating felt dry. My understanding is that silicone grease does no harm to most materials and can improve the flexibility of rubber material.
My reading about bike cables, that are sometimes Teflon coated, suggested that they did not "need" lubrication but also "a light lubrication is sufficient".
My cables being 20 years old and I believe untouched in that time I felt that a light lubrication would do no harm and could supplement the cable coating and perhaps prolong the bellows life.
I did not use mineral oil or grease because that can have an adverse effect on rubber.
Quote from: J88TEO on July 25, 2022, 23:37I removed the airbox and the hose etc. That gave me a lot of room to work on sanding the shifter cables. A box socket underneath and another on top and a small hammer did the job. Lubed with silicon grease and that's it. Compare to my other 2 with unmodded bushings and standard shifter the difference is massively felt.
Is it steel or stainless? Part number or link to?
Quote from: Gaz mr-s on July 26, 2022, 10:00Is it steel or stainless? Part number or link to?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334436276471?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20211130125621%26meid%3Ddac02d68bebe4dd2b4f65aff59506ca7%26pid%3D101465%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D334436276471%26itm%3D334436276471%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D3817808%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p3817808.c101465.m3507
Can't remember which one but will dig it out and let you know.
GEBK8S
Quote from: J88TEO on July 26, 2022, 10:28Quote from: Gaz mr-s on July 26, 2022, 10:00Is it steel or stainless? Part number or link to?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334436276471?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20211130125621%26meid%3Ddac02d68bebe4dd2b4f65aff59506ca7%26pid%3D101465%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D334436276471%26itm%3D334436276471%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D3817808%26brand%3DUnbranded&_trksid=p3817808.c101465.m3507
Can't remember which one but will dig it out and let you know.
That's a brilliant find. The spherical aspect along with the y-axis flexibility of the cables allows for play on all axes as opposed to the normal bearings we tend to use
"This spherical plain bearing requires grease lubrication. The outer ring has a groove and holes. The bearing must be protected from dirt and contamination."
It would need slathered in grease then. 🤔
I sprayed them with silicon grease....so far so good.
Check whenever I am in the engine compartment.
I silicone sprayed and greased moving parts then test drove the car today,
the gear change is without doubt a lot smoother. I am sure other members reading this will add this easy fix to their next maintainance things to do list. Thanks everyone .
Happy days!
Yep part of annual service regime.
Quote from: J88TEO on July 26, 2022, 10:34GEBK8S
Will be ordering 2 of those later.
Cheers
I helped a member a weekend ago install a pair of spherical bushings that are very high quality. It is being sold by the guy that sells the 2AR and 2GR swap parts if you remember.
In the past there were others that sold the cheaper versions that would corrode or the bearings would fall out of round and lock up but these seem to address that. I use the solid brass versions that I like but I might try a pair myself after seeing the quality.
https://frankensteinmotorworks.squarespace.com/mr2-spyder-shop/spherical-bearing-shift-cable-end
Other than lubrication, a bad cable can make shifting stiff. The problem is a cable may feel nice and smooth disconnected, but then get stiff under load as the inner wire flexes against the housing.
A better check takes two people. Disconnect the cable at the back, have one person apply pressure pushing the cable in or pulling it outward, and have another person in the car move the shifter so the cable tries to move against the applied force. A bad cable will be much stiffer under load.
Quote from: J88TEO on July 25, 2022, 23:37I removed the airbox and the hose etc. That gave me a lot of room to work on sanding the shifter cables. A box socket underneath and another on top and a small hammer did the job. Lubed with silicon grease and that's it. Compare to my other 2 with unmodded bushings and standard shifter the difference is massively felt.
Just re visiting this.
Trying to visualise your description. (I previously installed the ones referenced earlier.)
With the old bearings out. You are left with a ring on the the end of the cable.
Are you using a box spanner underneath to support the ring whilst using another on the bearing to tap it in?
Anything against Just using a socket of the appropriate size?
I can see some advantages in a box due to the length being able to rest it against something solid.
Quote from: Ardent on August 27, 2022, 09:42Are you using a box spanner underneath to support the ring whilst using another on the bearing to tap it in?
Anything against Just using a socket of the appropriate size?
You got it.
Bottom socket big enough to support the ring. Top socket big enough so it sit on the outer flange of the bearing.
Thank you.