Hi, I'm trying to diagnose p1349 and fix it, I'm trying to get to the small filter for the vvti at ths rear of the engine. Does anyone know of a way or guide on how to do this ?
Much appreciated
It's truly a piglet to get to.
First, remove the plastic engine cover. Also remove the evap cannister to make a bit more room for your hand. Disconnect the two hoses and slide it upwards in its mounting bracket. Remove the bolt that holds the top of the dipstick tube to the cam over and gently push the tube outwards a bit. (this will kelp you to get a spanner on the 14mm bolt head.)
Removing the oil control valve (one small M6, 10mm AF bolt and much wiggling) makes the job easier - then you can feel for the head of the bolt that holds it in (14mm spanner). While you've got it out (careful removing the connector!), check that it is working by putting 12 volts to it and seeing if it 'shuttles'. Give it a good clean too (it may be the problem!)
Here's a pic that might help you to feel your way around it!:
ocv filter bolt.jpg
and another
ocv in head 2.jpg
Thanks for reply, I will do this tomorrow and let you know how I get on and share my findings.
Quote from: Mr2highpeak on August 17, 2022, 19:23Thanks for reply, I will do this tomorrow and let you know how I get on and share my findings.
Just to clarify:
In the first pic you can see the bolt head at the top - that's the 10mm AF that holds the oil control valve in place. Below it, you can see the 14mm AF that holds the filter in place
In the second picture, you can see the 14mm AF bolt head that holds the filter in place is obscured by a piece of tubing - that's the dipstick tube.
Got the 14mm bolt out but the filter is still in situ. Can't get it out, any ideas 8)
I thought it should have come out attached to the bolt.
If still in place. Can you see if it still had a plastic nipple on the end, if yes. A bit of dillegence patience a mirror and some long needle nose pliers.
Triple jointed wrists if you have them.
Something like this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124058676634?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=WZYB5TPcTYe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=QErUOb2oRGu&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Quote from: Mr2highpeak on August 19, 2022, 17:45Got the 14mm bolt out but the filter is still in situ. Can't get it out, any ideas 8)
A pair of tweezers will suffice.
It's a funny old world.
I wanted to say tweezers. But coming from me, would sound like the rank amateur I am.
Coming from you. Sage words of wisdom. ;D
Well I tried for over 2 hours and gave up as my back was killing me. I could not get the filter out my hands are too big. However I did test the vvti solenoid and found it to be working fine.
From the deep dusty corners of my memory,
I believe that code can be presented if the system detects a foreign body in the vvt-i system.
The code can be saying it's done it's job rather than there is a problem.
Quote from: Ardent on August 19, 2022, 21:24From the deep dusty corners of my memory,
I believe that code can be presented if the system detects a foreign body in the vvt-i system.
The code can be saying it's done it's job rather than there is a problem.
To be fair its only come on I think 3 times in 6 months and it doesn't seem to effect the engine performance.
What I meant to have said was.
DTC P1349 is also output after the foreign object is caught
in some part of the system in the engine oil and the system re�turns to normal in a short time. As ECM controls so that foreign
objects are ejected, there is no problem about VVT. There is
also no problem since the oil filter should get the foreign object
in the engine oil.
Quote from: Ardent on August 19, 2022, 22:20What I meant to have said was.
DTC P1349 is also output after the foreign object is caught
in some part of the system in the engine oil and the system re�turns to normal in a short time. As ECM controls so that foreign
objects are ejected, there is no problem about VVT. There is
also no problem since the oil filter should get the foreign object
in the engine oil.
Yes but where did said foreign object come from?
That is another worry all by itself
This is a common code for old motors that have varnish build up in the VVT oil circuit system. What generally happens is the circuit needs a certain amount of oil pressure that is diverted from the oil control solenoids to make the stator in the VVT intake hub sprocket to move back and forth to change cam timing. It is noted by the cam sensor and reported to the ECU. If the ECU reports that its not where it is suppose to be when it tried to make the change either due to sluggishness or not moving at all it will trip a code.
The causes for this is poor quality oil that builds up varnish in the entire circuit and even in the stator housing where it can get gummed up and stuck. The strainers are there to catch foreign particulate that might enter into the small oil passages that can cause immediate damage. It does however catch varnish particles that break off which is also known to occlude oil flow and need to be cleared out.
There are many reasons for this code than just dirty oil and a dirty engine but this is the likely issue. The best way to solve this is to use an engine flush which can clean out these varnish deposits over time even dissolve the ones in the strainer given enough time. A switch to synthetic oil that is known to have the least amount of deposit formation and cleaning action can make further improvements. If it is really bad then the VVT hub sprocket might need to be replaced.
Quote from: Dev on August 20, 2022, 14:33This is a common code for old motors that have varnish build up in the VVT oil circuit system. What generally happens is the circuit needs a certain amount of oil pressure that is diverted from the oil control solenoids to make the stator in the VVT intake hub sprocket to move back and forth to change cam timing. It is noted by the cam sensor and reported to the ECU. If the ECU reports that its not where it is suppose to be when it tried to make the change either due to sluggishness or not moving at all it will trip a code.
The causes for this is poor quality oil that builds up varnish in the entire circuit and even in the stator housing where it can get gummed up and stuck. The strainers are there to catch foreign materials that might entire to oil system to prevent immediate damage. It does however catch varnish particles that break off which is also known to occlude oil flow and need to be cleared out.
There are many reasons for this code than just dirty oil and a dirty engine but this is the likely issue. The best way to solve this is to use an engine flush which can clean out these vanish deposits over time even dissolve the ones in the strainer given enough time. A switch to synthetic oil that is known to have the least amount of deposit formation and cleaning action can make further improvements. If it is really bad then the VVT hub sprocket might need to be replaced.
great write up I really appreciate you taking the time to reply, that goes for everyone who replied to my question. How much is involved in replacing the hub sprocket time and cost wise ?
Quote from: Mr2highpeak on August 20, 2022, 19:44great write up I really appreciate you taking the time to reply, that goes for everyone who replied to my question. How much is involved in replacing the hub sprocket time and cost wise ?
Before you do that I would try a high quality engine flush. The one you want disperses deposits not dislodge them making the situation worse. Motul and Liquimoly sell ones that are very good. I have advised two others with the same code to try the flush and it made the issue go away.
Replacing the hub is involving because it requires removing the intake cam and then when you install the new one you have to unlock the hub with compressed air before installation otherwise the lock pin can get jammed.
This also involves messing with the timing chain which is not an easy thing to do to make sure your marks match on both sprockets. If you are not experienced or daring enough to do the work I would avoid it.
I have replace my intake cam before which involved all of the same steps and it was a pain to get the chain back on but I got it done.
If you do get the hub off it can be opened and cleaned out if you are carful with it and the lid is properly torqued.
As above.
Is that really necessary. Wants to be last thing on the list.
I endorse Dev's recommendation to flush it out. Dev is in the States, so his product recommendations sometimes don't pan out here (In the UK).
Forte engine flush is excellent. Not the cheapest, but very good. Be very careful to follow the directions precisely. Best to have fresh 5w30 fully synth oil and a new filter to hand before you start the job.
You can also get the OCV filter out by pushing a suitable sized self tapping screw in and giving it a turn so that it engages in the end of the filter.
If you can possibly get it out, it's well worth the effort. They DO, sometimes, get clogged up.
Forte Advanced Formula Motor Flush (400ml is this the correct flush ?
Quote from: Mr2highpeak on August 22, 2022, 08:55Forte Advanced Formula Motor Flush (400ml is this the correct flush ?
That's the stuff.
Well I got round to doing the engine flush I ended up using liquid moly engine flush as that's what my local motor parts place had in. Anyway the oil came out much darker than before so hopefully did the trick, refilled with 5w 30 fully synthetic oil and new filter see how it goes now. Took for a test drive no engine light appeared and felt a little more responsive but I can't be sure. Thanks guys for your all your advice.
Quote from: Mr2highpeak on August 26, 2022, 21:17Well I got round to doing the engine flush I ended up using liquid moly engine flush as that's what my local motor parts place had in. Anyway the oil came out much darker than before so hopefully did the trick, refilled with 5w 30 fully synthetic oil and new filter see how it goes now. Took for a test drive no engine light appeared and felt a little more responsive but I can't be sure. Thanks guys for your all your advice.
Congrats happy it worked at least for now but time will tell. I would do another flush in the future just because it would be beneficial to the engine life since the timing chain, tensioner and guides are lubricated though that system. It is the primarily cause of noisy 1ZZ engines as they get old.