Hi all- saw an interesting video today by 3pot where he reviewed the "normal/TTE route of diverting the coolant house next to the engine block, and suggested that this would result in coolant only flowing past turbo when the heater was activated?
The method he opts for is to actually go via the two coolant ports on the throttle body.
I'm ok with current TTE method IF it doesn't in fact only work with the heater activated.. if threepot is right then I'll be changing! As much as it pains me to work with coolant again...
It still works without the heater activated as far as I'm aware.
Turning the heater off is just a case of the hot air being blocked as far as I'm aware nothing to do with stopping flow.
(https://i.ibb.co/3RhcQcx/s-l1600.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3RhcQcx)
@jvanzyl If you do need to alter the pipe work you may not have to loose too much fluid/ create air lock problems.
When my OE radiator started leaking, after Mr T had replaced the long life coolant at a cost of just shy of £100, I bought an after market rad. And
clamped the flow and return hoses, opened the rad. bleed valve and drained just the rad. After fitting the new rad. I needed little coolant to make up for the spillage loss and not a problem to purge the system.
On that basis, if you can clamp/ isolate the pipe work you need to adjust you may not have so much of a task as before.
Quote from: Gaz2405 on June 2, 2024, 15:08It still works without the heater activated as far as I'm aware.
Turning the heater off is just a case of the hot air being blocked as far as I'm aware nothing to do with stopping flow.
(https://i.ibb.co/3RhcQcx/s-l1600.jpg) (https://ibb.co/3RhcQcx)
Ah excellent thank you!
@Joesson thank you- it's literally an aversion I currently have to the smell and touch of the stuff and being burnt in the process of rectifying issues.. more of a mental block really..