MR2 Roadster Owners Club

The Workshop => Maintenance, Problems & Troubleshooting => Topic started by: Daytona on September 18, 2024, 14:29

Title: 4 wheel alignment.....rear etc
Post by: Daytona on September 18, 2024, 14:29
Know almost nothing about the suspension set-up on the MR2, went for a 4 wheel alignment, the front was almost ok, the rear was not. The operator did not fill me with reassurance; anyhow we got to the bolts and they were rusted solid. Penetrating fluid and heat and they did not seem to want to shift.....I seem to have read somewhere they have a habit of breaking under duress. So my question is do I order new rear parts (if so what and from where?)to correct this issue before possible breakage on adjustment or take it somewhere else for a more medieval go on it....?
Title: Re: 4 wheel alignment.....rear etc
Post by: Carolyn on September 18, 2024, 15:33
You can get the eccentric bolts from Toyota, or (possibly) J-Spec. They can be a bit of a piglet to get out if they've really rusted.

It will probably take the medieval approach, cutting off on nuts and heads and driving out with drift and big hammer.
Title: Re: 4 wheel alignment.....rear etc
Post by: Ardent on September 18, 2024, 20:19
Worth researching who your local (or not) well respected geo people are.

A well set up 2 is a thing of joy.
But often said in here, it's more about the technician knowing what they are doing, rather than a garage just boasting having the latest hunter kit.
Title: Re: 4 wheel alignment.....rear etc
Post by: Rushy67 on September 21, 2024, 13:34
I was in exactly the same position as you, bolts rusted solid.
Ended up having the whole front and rear suspension refreshed using genuine Toyota arms, was not cheap but when 4 Wheel alignment carried out the car drives almost like new.
Title: Re: 4 wheel alignment.....rear etc
Post by: Joesson on September 21, 2024, 16:52
@Daytona
Having had no experience with the rear arms I can only comment on the front arms.
Those were somewhat difficult to remove the bolts but did come loose with penetrating oil, a drift and a club (iirc) hammer that provided the necessary impact without the need for swinging a long shafted hammer as I  working close to the floor on axle stands.
On the front arms the vertical bolts enter nut inserts in the bodywork but the horizontal bolts have locking type nuts with serrations. This means that these must be undone by rotating the bolt head.
Two of the four bolts were reusable but I replaced all four, two coming with new nuts. These I got from TCB, his price being the best I could find, and similarly for the SuperPro bushes.
I used a ( 4.5inch ) grinder with a cup type wire brush to clean the arms back to bare metal and refinished with spray paint.
In the past I have read about others having these shot blasted and powder coated, an excellent method, but I am only time rich.
I have also read about others buying front control arms from sources other than Mr T and some then necessarily repeating the process very shortly afterwards.