Not sure if this is alternator, battery or something else, but my 1zz has been struggling to start over the last two days and then today it didn't start at all and needed to be pushed - and then it did start. What is the most likely culprit before I drive over to where it is?
Thanks
Need to put a voltmeter on it. Healthy battery standing around 12.6V. Get someone to watch the meter & crank the engine, - how far does it drop down? Engine running & alternator charging, approx 14.4V.
Okay thanks, I'm told it is still trying to crank but just not taking.
'Trying to crank' or 'cranking over fine - no ignition'? If it's the first case, check battery. If the second you could have an immobiliser issue, or a lack of fuel???
Also, clearly a hose has come off here and is spraying out oil...
(https://i.ibb.co/q7B2bYs/20240919-200812.jpg) (https://ibb.co/q7B2bYs)
So... Something to do with pressure... Why did putting my brake bleeder hose on this make it work?
(https://i.ibb.co/4N2FDvb/20240919-201831.jpg) (https://ibb.co/4N2FDvb)
That spray should not be oil - it should be petrol vapour from the tank breather (if anything)
Battery is down on charge.
Having had a closer look, it appears the petrol fume system has been deleted. So the open end needs a small bit of hose with a bung in it. Or you can pull the hose off the blue solenoid valve and bung that.
Quote from: Carolyn on September 20, 2024, 08:49That spray should not be oil - it should be petrol vapour from the tank breather (if anything)
Battery is down on charge.
Having had a closer look, it appears the petrol fume system has been deleted. So the open end needs a small bit of hose with a bung in it. Or you can pull the hose off the blue solenoid valve and bung that.
Ah okay.. So I ordered a hose, some small clips and a small filter last night. Should I forego the filter and just bung it then? I assumed it was oil but fuel makes sense too. The top cover was slick
Disregard the fuel vapour thing - the fuel vapour system has been removed. But that leaves an open end that will affect things.
The hose that is attached goes into the inlet manifold - so no oil should be coming out of that.
Has it been running with the oil filler cap loose? Is the hose from the PCV valve (on the font left of the cam cover) properly attached and not leaking (oil vapour will come out of that)?
There's no point putting a filter on it. It just need to be bunged up so no air gets past.
Quote from: Carolyn on September 20, 2024, 09:43Disregard the fuel vapour thing - the fuel vapour system has been removed. But that leaves an open end that will affect things.
The hose that is attached goes into the inlet manifold - so no oil should be coming out of that.
Has it been running with the oil filler cap loose? Is the hose from the PCV valve (on the font left of the cam cover) properly attached and not leaking (oil vapour will come out of that)?
There's no point putting a filter on it. It just need to be bunged up so no air gets past.
Okay thanks, it's something
@shnazzle did. And I've gone back to my readers ride thread which I think mentions this. I'll see if I can bung it up then, thanks
I think I had a filter on both ends. I'm guessing the filter I had on the valve side slipped off?
Never had any running issues with that setup. Can't remember why I deleted the canister. There was a reason... Not just my whim.
I think when I was doing the alternator (for the 3rd fkin time) one of the bolts on the bracket for the canister sheered.
Quote from: shnazzle on September 20, 2024, 12:08I think I had a filter on both ends. I'm guessing the filter I had on the valve side slipped off?
Never had any running issues with that setup. Can't remember why I deleted the canister. There was a reason... Not just my whim.
I think when I was doing the alternator (for the 3rd fkin time) one of the bolts on the bracket for the canister sheered.
Yeah that's exactly it. I find a spare bit in the box of bits you sent with the car that is a direct replacement for what you used. There was also a hose. So I'm just going to replicate what was there. Just a weird one but was rushing (panicking) a bit, hence all the posts, as it is needed for Monday.
Hi any one reading this. I have a new video and my previous fix is not working... The car is not starting at all, the whirring sound os concerning and the belt is not moving, but now and then it's almost as if the engine tries to start (the belts do move in this scenario). But I just can't get it to start now. Is this my starter motor, I've heard there's a solenoid somewhere, anything else?
I keep trying what you see in the video and with my foot on the accelerator and sometimes it very very nearly starts.
@Carolyn I noted you said battery down on charge. I haven't got my multimeter with me but do you think this still could be the case? No lights flickering on the dash etc.
It is like a gear is not engaging, like it catches briefly then falls out
Either battery or duff starter motor. Not having a meter diagnosis doesn't help.
If you shoot a video showing the ignition lights, that might help a little. Do they go dim when you attempt to crank it?
Quote from: Carolyn on September 22, 2024, 14:25Either battery or duff starter motor. Not having a meter diagnosis doesn't help.
If you shoot a video showing the ignition lights, that might help a little. Do they go dim when you attempt to crank it?
No dimming at all. I'll try and get a multimeter on it but I'm not with it again now.
No dimming tells me it's the starter motor. A used one from J-Spec should suffice.
Not a big job to do the swap, two bolts and two connections.
Given my lovely history of alternators on that car, also worth checking.
Quote from: shnazzle on September 22, 2024, 16:23Given my lovely history of alternators on that car, also worth checking.
Turns out it was the starter motor, replaced it with a used one off a lower mileage car. Not too bad a job, just requires being upside down for a bit. One bolt was awkward to get to but not terrible.
Thanks for your help all!