I very recently purchased an MR-S. Even more recently the engine developed a rattle at anything over 4k revs and when backing off in lower gears at any revs.
It has transpired that the engine has almost been run dry of oil and this has no doubt caused damage to the engine. (Yes I feel very, very stupid for not checking the oil thanks s:oops: :oops: s:oops: )
My local garage suggest that damage would first occur to the bottom end but they don't inspire me with much confidence.
If my engine has got to come out and be stripped down on the bench then I want it to be done by a reputable mechanic familiar with the VVTi, with a tidy garage and can offer warranty on the work.
Does anyone have any suggestions or recomendations? I live in Preston Lancashire.
Thanx s:) :) s:)
[/b]
Does it still vibrate now even with the correct amount of oil. If it doesn't then I wouldn't worry about it for now. It'll cost you a lot of money for somebody to strip the engine and rebuild it.
Would it be cheaper to source a 2nd hand engine and swap it in rather than strip and rebuild?
Did your oil light come on at all? If not, you might be OK with an engine flush, oil/filter change & take it steady - worth a try and cheaper! (my MR-S top end bearings ran dry after 4 days standing - oil level was OK but it still sounded terminal at the time - no harm done though)
You've probably done this already, but make sure you've ruled out heatshield rattle....symptoms sound very similar. Get under the back and tap the shield - the fixing points are notoriously weak, and the MR-S doesn't have the protective nappy so they tend to give up quickly, especially after a boat ride from Japan!
Sorry, can't help with Preston garage - I knew a good 'un up in Lancaster but he's moved on to other things now. Let's hope you won't need one just yet.
Do yourself a favour and search for the term "precats". Chances are that your engine is a gonner, and you'd be better off getting another 1ZZ-FE from a scrapyard, rather than paying someone a lot of money to tell you what is probabley quite obvious.
What the dealers usually do, is keep the car, take the engine apart, and send their findings to TOYOTA England (or whatever its called there). Then they tell the dealer what he should do. Changing the shortblock or not, is up to the diameters of the cylinders. They have set standards as to when an engine could be fixed, or it needs replacement.
The mechanic is not important IMHO.
What is important for you and the future of the car, is to change the shortblock with a 2003+ shortblock. The old one if it's fixed, it will still burn oil.
I had one repair and one substitution with a 2003+ shortblock so I talk from experience.
Thanks for the advice folks.
Spit - My oil light flashed once briefly on a roundabout, it's not the heatshield but my concern is that "running it and see" could be damaging the engine further? Surely once the engine has been warmed up and run just once the oil would have circulated and the engine should then run quitley again?
I have found a garage that will take the engine out, strip it down, diagnose the problem and then either repair it if practical or just put a replacement one in it depending which is cheaper. £450 labour
I have also found a Jap 2002 engine with 12,000 miles for £1,250 delivered.
Worst case scenario assuming it's not valve seats or cam etc... would be £1,700 OUCH!!! s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
I think based on everyones advice this is the safest and most sensible approach whilst also the most expensive lesson I've ever learnt s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
xdesign - I see, so the reason it burnt so much oil in the first place is an issue with the short block? I was confused by this as the records show that the car had a service exactly 12 months ago where the oil would have surely been checked.
I can't find an 03+ replacement engine. What is a "short block" what do they cost if I was to fit one to either my engine or a replacement before it goes back in?
RUSTY - It's a little quiter since oil was sorted but still not right, not at all convinced it's going to go away s:? :? s:?
Let me put this into perspective as far as your possibles costs go.
My engine recently expired with what was probably a big end failure chucking a rod out the rear of the block. Luckily Mr T took up the costs under warranty and I had to sign this off after the work was completed. The total amount including parts and labour came to £6545.00
If Mr T doesn't want to pick up the bill after the engine has blown and they have stripped the engine to check it they will be expecting you to foot the bill for the labour and then you will still be left with the rest of the costs.
You may want to source a repair or replacement before it gets to that stage
QuoteThe total amount including parts and labour came to £6545.00
s:shock: :shock: s:shock: Dealerships are the devil s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
That price for the engine is expensive. I can Supply a low mileage 2ZZ with gearbox, ECU and wiring loom for £800.
As Grant said, check your precats as it may be their failure that has caused the low oil condition in the first place. The best course of action for the engine is source a good second hand one as this is by far cheaper than stripping a whole engine and replacing various parts.
Quote from: "Jap GT300"That price for the engine is expensive. I can Supply a low mileage 2ZZ with gearbox, ECU and wiring loom for £800.
Would you fit it for a cup of coffee and a kit kat s:) :) s:)
I'll see your kit kat and raise you a Coke! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Just chuck the engine bad and take GT300 up on his offer. A 1ZZ isn't worth rebuilding. One with no real problems goes for about $500 over here (US). You almost can't give them away. Labor is the killer and if you are going to be out of pocket for labor, just bite the bullet and do the 2ZZ conversion. s:) :) s:)
QuoteJap GT300
That price for the engine is expensive. I can Supply a low mileage 2ZZ with gearbox, ECU and wiring loom for £800.
Pardon my ignorance but what is the 2ZZ? Is this the later 2003 revision of mine with the 6 speed box or an earlier mk2 engine? What millage, guarantee and delivery are we talking?
How easy is the conversion?
I offered my local garage kit kats and coke for the work but he said he only takes cash and credit cards, "what kind of Mickey Mouse operation are you running here" I asked s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
2ZZ - As used in the Celica 190
m http://www.celicas.co.uk/VVTLi.htm (http://www.celicas.co.uk/VVTLi.htm) m
Quote2ZZ - As used in the Celica 190
Ah I see, would be nice but I don't want to effect my insurance and need to be able to sell the car easily in the future. I'd better stick with the Izzy.
I don't think I'll be keeping the MR-S long, despite being the best handling car I've ever driven there are too many posts about knackered engines for my liking. s:( :( s:(