here's what happen's when you slam dunk the softop with a set of david's bars. The front edge of the softop seams to drop faster than the rear and rubs on the bars. Guess i'd better whip them off and go claim warranty from Mr.T s:wink: :wink: s:wink: s:? :? s:?
(http://www.tandridgecanoe.co.uk/roadster/split1.JPG)
(http://www.tandridgecanoe.co.uk/roadster/split2.JPG)
(http://www.tandridgecanoe.co.uk/roadster/split3.JPG)
Mine have never done that and I slam them a lot - did you fit the plastic latch extender?
Quote from: "Slacey"Mine have never done that and I slam them a lot - did you fit the plastic latch extender?
no because mine latched in fine, i've had a bit of a study on the geometry and on a hot day when everythings looser, the front edge drops faster than the rear, causeing it to almost lean forward and rub on the bar before it gets to the latch assy, bummer eh!
guess i've got to put the stock bits back on and go claim a new hood on warranty s:? :? s:? bugger!
havent noticed this on mine either, although, I havent fitted the shrouds yet.
I have the piece I just took off if you want to borrow it Stu.
Philster.
just as a point on this for anyone else, we checked 3 other 2's at the go karting that had the davids bars. 2 of them had split front edges on the softops, if you have them, check em s:!: :!: s:!:
Yes I have it and I deduced it rubs when the back wont go down so you push down on the front (half folded)
s:( :( s:(
Need a plan obviously because mine is only just fitted and looking quite worn already (I rarely or never slam the top by the way)
Phil
time to resurrect an old subject
heres the fix!
you need to cut the inboard welds of each hoop and the small section that goes down the back of the bar, next you need to cut 4-5mm out of the bit that goes down the back of the bar, where the round tube meets the flat section of the sqare cross member bar and then get the hoop section pushed forward and re-welded. Hope that makes sense. Doing it this way means only one small section of the covers need to be trimmed.
I cant even pull the soft top near the bars now and i cant see any way of further damage happening, hope this helps.
(http://www.tandridgecanoe.co.uk/roadster/bar6.jpg)
(http://www.tandridgecanoe.co.uk/roadster/bar7.jpg)
Cost in the end ?
noticed a couple of weeks ago that mine has also split and I don't slam dunk mine. Is it possible to get the teats repaired and reinforced? will have to try and get the adjustment done somewhere. did notice a while ago that there was a wind whistle at certain speeds that appeared to come from the top, mus be due to the splits
Quote from: "philster_d"Cost in the end ?
£80
as per our earlier discussions stu, if you find teh trim panel mods easy I may well be follwoing your route
Quote from: "Bowman"noticed a couple of weeks ago that mine has also split and I don't slam dunk mine. Is it possible to get the teats repaired and reinforced? will have to try and get the adjustment done somewhere. did notice a while ago that there was a wind whistle at certain speeds that appeared to come from the top, must be due to the splits
do you mean the front edge of the soft top by "teats", if so i would have thought that you could get the split glued, but you may need to go to a soft top specialist
Quote from: "markiii"as per our earlier discussions stu, if you find the trim panel mods easy I may well be follwoing your route
cant see why they wouldn't be easy, i'm also going to do away with that hideous gap in the middle and make one continuous panel
anyone do fibreglass 101 lessons s:? :? s:?
Mark i was gonna make some kind of custom covering.
From the people who fitted the supplied fg it wasnt very good anyway
Quote from: "philster_d"Mark i was gonna make some kind of custom covering.
From the people who fitted the supplied fg it wasnt very good anyway
they're alright, just a bit on the thin side and the join in the middle looks cack IMHO. my covers dont have the circles cut out for the defector and that makes a big difference
well as I may get into the fibre glass for my front frunk, still umming and erring. I may be ready to do a simple join like that.
But I was thinking more leather and foam s:) :) s:)
why didn't you put the rubber stopper to prevent the soft top to rub on the style bars ?
what rubber stopper? dion't remember one with my bars?
Quote from: "markiii"what rubber stopper? dion't remember one with my bars?
errrr yeah, what rubber stopper??? s:? :? s:? s:? :? s:?
i never got one
Quote from: "kanujunkie"errrr yeah, what rubber stopper??? s:? :? s:? s:? :? s:?
I think he means the 'L' shaped teflon 'skid plate' that was offered as a fix for this issue. Later versions of the kit came with it. It sits just to the left or right of the release handle facing towards the rear. As you are lowering the top, the metal handle on the top should hit the teflon bit first, forcing the top towards the rear before the lip hits the hoop as it's closing.
I would also like to find a better looking solution for the supplied fibreglass covers. I would like a single piece with no centre join (and no holes) and most important, a cover that extends down the back to hide the bar internals when looking through the rear window with the top up.
that's it
It has always been provided with the kits since I know David
And I thought that on early sets he sent it.
Arnaud, the 2 1 piece bars you sorted out for me last year didn't come with this, any chance you coudl sort it out for me.
cheers,
Mark.
Same here, and I have asked this question.
Im sure the answer was in the later kits an extra washer is supplied to slightly change the bars angle by raising its rear.(thus leaving more clearance)
Phil
Phil, I remember teh washer conversation but thie rubber thing is totally knew.
Well as the welders just bent Stus bars, im probably gonna do it myself.
(after i can finaly loose the hardtop s:( :( s:( i was in glorious sunny manchester yesterday gutted with the roof on) nearly just threw it in a layby s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Philster
no offence but the bars were designed wrong, a small movement in the centre bar welds cease this issue, but instead a small piece of teflon is being sent out as a fix. mine hit the bars long before it came near the latch. I pm'd you this morning Arnaud to see if you could pass the info back to David or Michelle, not to be told that i'm in the wrong because i didn't fit something i never recieved. I know i didn't buy the bars from you, i got them direct from Michelle but please a yes or no would have done as to wether you would pass the info back
Quote from: "philster_d"I'm sure the answer was in the later kits an extra washer is supplied to slightly change the bars angle by raising its rear.(thus leaving more clearance)
Where do these washers go? Between the bar and the frame on the back vertical bolts? I thought I just had extras...
Doh! s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
yeah, you dont need them - send them to me s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
but yes i thin so the rear is pivoted a little around the side links.
I keep meaning to go to a specialist bolt shop and grab a few myself.
Philster.
The teflon slide has always been part of the kit - all of original GB bars had them.
Quote from: "Slacey"The teflon slide has always been part of the kit - all of original GB bars had them.
that may be, but Mark and myself dont have them and even if we did, it wouldn't have stopped this, mine hit the bar, long before it got near the catch. IMHO only a cut and reweld is a propper fix on this, rather than a 2bit piece of teflon.
sorry i'll get off my soap box now.
looking at mine yesterday wjhen cold I can see what yu mean stu, I think we need to talk about your contact
Yeah me too need to do
I don't think anyone with the originals had this problem. Odd that the design changed s:? :? s:?
lets compare our bars at anglesey s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "Slacey"I don't think anyone with the originals had this problem. Odd that the design changed s:? :? s:?
as far as i'm aware Sean the only change to the bars physically was the addition of the joint in the middle to make it easier for transport
Stu, Arnaud has contacted me about this very old problem.
For us the problem has been resolved 2 years ago, and nobody have informed us since this period. The little teflon slide is provided with each kit, except for the first 15 ones: for them, I have sent a part individually to each person, and the bars had been also modified in the same time.
The new version in 2 parts has exactly the same shape.
I know it was possible to weld the bars forward, but I'll have to do a new shape for the plastic parts, with a new mold..... that I didn't need, because everybody said the problem was resolved.
So I think you haven't put the teflon slide, or perhaps you have lost it during the install, I don't know... but I could send one for free to anyone who need it ( for you, it's to late now); but I repeat, I don't know how it is possible: everyone should have one in his kit.
I hope my response will satisfy you.
David
i'm quite happy with what i've done to fix the problem David,i've had mine rewelded and i'm redesigning the covers properly. I was more wanting to inform you, I have checked a load of club members cars that have your bars and have found around 80% that have holes in the softop so i would sugest that at least a better warning and better instructions as a minimum.
Can you show me where this teflon slide thing goes. Had a look at the instructions when I put them in and it wasn't clear.
yeah, please, then I could do with one sending out David.
Me too, until I can get the rewelding done.
Phil