Next job was to modify the fuel system. As standard the MR2 runs a 1 fuel pipe setup but the Audi engine requires an additional pipe adding for a fuel return to the fuel tank. Having the engine removed makes this job much easier. The fuel pump assembly requires removal for the fitment of the fuel return, access to this is under the plastic trim in the bottom of the drivers side cubby behind the seat.
 There's a metal cover that is stuck down with a putty like material, it can simply be levered up to uncover the top of the fuel tank and access to the fuel pump assembly.
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 Once the wiring plug is disconnected and the retaining screws removed the fuel pump assembly can be taken out of the tank. The top of the fuel pump assembly is unclipped and has a hole drilled and tapped in the top to take a 1/8" threaded elbow.
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Part of the conversion requires the removal of the toyota fuel pressure regulator and it being replaced with a blanking plug.
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 I also fitted a new upgraded Walbro  GSS342-KL, as the original one was 24 years old and not designed for the Audi engines thirst, it seemed to be the sensible thing to do. The pump is slightly taller than the original one so the end cap of the fuel pump assembly needed trimming to make it fit.
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 Once modified the assembly was refitted to the fuel tank and a rubber fuel hose passed through the hole in the engine bay, which houses all the pipes and cables, through to the access panel to the fuel pump. This was then connected to the new fuel tank inlet that was just installed.
In the engine bay the original fuel supply pipe has a quick release connection, the connection was disconnected and the fuel pipe cut off to reveal a barbed tail. This tail is then pushed into another rubber fuel hose and fastened with a fuel pipe clip. This fuel hose and the hose from the return are then cable tied to the steel pipe, the fuel tank vent, attached to the bulk head. That's the fuel system modded ready for the new engine.
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Oh dear, I am on my own this weekend so will have do it myself. How did you lower the tank? Did you disconnect cables and hoses?

Quote from: Nomad on Today at 21:51@SurreyMR2
Thanks, that sounds promising. How difficult was it to fit the cables?

It wasn't fun to be honest. I had car on ramps one end and axel stands at other end so access was quite tight. I had tank as empty as I dared to help removal. An extra pair of hands would have helped.

@SurreyMR2
Thanks, that sounds promising. How difficult was it to fit the cables?

I have finally fixed my handbrake.

I replaced both cables with genuine cables 2 years ago but what ever I did the near side handbrake was rubbish & if you the looked at the plate under centre console you could see it was pulling to one side.

Previously I had bought a Pagid calliper from Euros, but this was rubbish. Then bought a used OE calliper and this wasn't much better.

Today I fitted a matching pair of eBay callipers. Discs & pads were only 5000 miles old so kept these.

Fitted new callipers paying particular attention to make sure everything was free.

Setup as per instructions and now my handbrake is perfect. The plate under centre console now pulls perfectly level. 2 clicks and both wheels can't be moved by hand. 6 clicks & car won't pull away under engine power.

My actual brakes are now much better, firmer pedal and it now pulls up straight & level.

So I definitely think matching callipers along with genuine cables is the answer.

Today I've tried to disconnect one handbrake cable from both callipers at the time. They fully work on their own but stop as soon as connected to the balance bar as a pair. During the handbrake operation the LHS cable seems to pull out much further than the RHS. The RHS cable which was seized moves freely now btw.

I started to strip the interior parts down to access the top of the fuel tank and I think I found the problem.
The LHS cable was replaced 2 years ago (previous owner kept a record of it). When they replaced the cable, they didn't secure the bracket behind the fuel tank, just left it there, didn't even pull the grommet through. With this quality of work who knows if they've used the correct length cable...

I've read online that you can lower the tank instead of a full removal. Do I have to remove the lid which is glued over the access hole over the tank? Also what about the rubber tube from the fuel filler pot to the tank, does it need to be disconnected? I've got a transmission scissors type jack which I am planning to use to support the tank.

As a i recall the cables are different lengths. So the possibility of wrong cable or wrong side is a thing.
The OEM's have a color tab to denote the difference.

I'm good for tensioner O rings thanks, but thank you for the kind offer. When it first started leaking I thought it was the tensioner but alas it was not, its definitely leaking on the join of the cover to the head.

It didn't leak for a few weeks, then started very slowly and has got worse. I think my soft RTV type sealant doesn't have the sheer strength and thus the 5 bar whatever it is has blown it out.

I like the idea of a proper O ring between the head and the cover.

My taillights are without the circle lights also the underbody bracing are just two bars with no cross members connecting them together. I would say it's a pre-facelift. I definitely will replace both. Just wanted to make sure which ones to get.

@Nomad

Is your car a pre or post facelift?  Which rear bumper?  Which tail lights? Which tail lights.  5 Speed P(FL) or 6 speed (FL) ?The cars are visually different.  Go by that. 

Get a pair.  Yours may both be stretched, one more than the other.  Just replacing one is a bad idea.