Dyno results from todays mapping session

Started by Ilogik, April 15, 2009, 21:52

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SimonC_Here

#25
Just a note I managed a unichip to 163 bhp @ 6766 RPM  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  with a little help from TTE exhaust. standard manifold without precats, Trd pannel filer and MarkIII pipe. And a slight spike in the trace!  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  

Actual was around 158 BHP

Link to trace

Anonymous

#26
Quote from: "Ilogik"Any track days coming up?  s:D :D s:D
Ahem

 s;) ;) s;)

ChrisGB

#27
Quote from: "Ilogik"from what chris says, i take it the standard manifold is uber restrictive.

The stock manifold is just one of a never ending line of limiting factors. Quite a few people have gone down the route of unichip with mods and until today, the best graph I saw for stock manifold (with Unichip, gutted precats and SP downpipe) made 153bhp. I cannot remember whose car it was, but similar setups with different manifolds have made more. The PPE seems to be about top end power if no VVT control is implemented. Going PPE or Zero is a know route to higher outputs. In theory, Unichip Q should be able offer same gains as PFC now.

Also, not all Unichips are the same. The original was a timing and fuelling control, the latest Unichip Q does VVTi control too. This has the potential to get a bit more out of the engine at all speeds.

Chris
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

SteveJ

#28
Quote from: "Ilogik"
Quote from: "SteveJ"
Quote from: "Ilogik"that is some serious gains for just a unichip, surely an ecu works in harmony with modifications you put with it, to gain that much just from a chip sounds a bit hocus pocus.

I was there when it was being mapped - Hedley at Millway in Andover knows his stuff with the Unichip.

Im not denying it, but amazed if anything, especially as stock exhaust, precats ect. If so I feel cheated :p

Plot from Martin's Unichip install -


Ilogik

#29
that is cool, as you say thought unless all cars are done on the same dyno its hard to pin point it exactly.

Anyone fancy a dyno day in the summer? Western Performance in bham.
Current: Genuine GT300 Monocraft running a 2ZZ-GE
Ex: Trial kitted Cam\'d Power fc
Ex: TRD stage 1 TTE Turbo

markiii

#30
want to organise it?
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Ilogik

#31
Quote from: "markiii"want to organise it?


Can do, did one awhile back, was £45 I think pp. Will look into it, there was around 20 cars.

video from it

 m http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6tP2zAKZag m
Current: Genuine GT300 Monocraft running a 2ZZ-GE
Ex: Trial kitted Cam\'d Power fc
Ex: TRD stage 1 TTE Turbo

markiii

#32
if possible avoid June please  :-) :-) :-)
Gallardo Spyder<br />Ex Midnight Blue 911 T4S<br />EX VXR220<br />Ex Custom Turbo 2001 Sahara Sun MR2 Roadster 269bp, 240lbft<br /><br />MR2ROC Committee 2002 - 2009<br /><br />

Ilogik

#33
Quote from: "markiii"if possible avoid June please  :-) :-) :-)

some time we might possibly have some sunshine, nothing worse than waiting roundsoaking wet lol.
Current: Genuine GT300 Monocraft running a 2ZZ-GE
Ex: Trial kitted Cam\'d Power fc
Ex: TRD stage 1 TTE Turbo

ChrisGB

#34
Quote from: "SimonC_Here"Just a note I managed a unichip to 163 bhp @ 6766 RPM  s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  with a little help from TTE exhaust. standard manifold without precats, Trd pannel filer and MarkIII pipe. And a slight spike in the trace!  s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  

Actual was around 158 BHP

Link to trace


Was that with Unichip or UnichipQ?

Chris
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

cclarke99

#35
The dyno operator should compensate for the effects of air pressure and temperature before printing the graph as it can make a significant difference. A typical day to day variation in air pressure could change a standard car from 134bhp to 140, whilst a 5 degree change in temperature will change power by between 2 and 3bhp. Increased humidity decreases the air density, but may increase power due to the charge cooling effect. As far as the accuracy of the dyno is concerned, look at  m http://yarchive.net/car/dyno_accuracy.html m  and beware. Finally - I don't know what these various aftermarket inlet systems look like, but I understand that the standard unit draws nice cold air from behind the grille on the side of the car. The air in the eingine compartment could easily be 20 degrees warmer (especailly stationary on a rolling road) which could cost you 5-8% or 10bhp on a modified car.

philster_d

#36
How can they calibrate it? even if they use 1 horse, all horses are different

NickNJ

#37
Quote from: "Ilogik"
Quote from: "markiii"if possible avoid June please  :-) :-) :-)

some time we might possibly have some sunshine, nothing worse than waiting roundsoaking wet lol.

Summer was last week.
Black MR2 Roadster

Ilogik

#38
Quote from: "NickNJ"
Quote from: "Ilogik"
Quote from: "markiii"if possible avoid June please  :-) :-) :-)

some time we might possibly have some sunshine, nothing worse than waiting roundsoaking wet lol.

Summer was last week.

I have been saying that for the last 2 years, i reckon it will be real hot again in may, come summer time will be september.
Current: Genuine GT300 Monocraft running a 2ZZ-GE
Ex: Trial kitted Cam\'d Power fc
Ex: TRD stage 1 TTE Turbo

evileye_wrx

#39
If your organising a Dyno Day wait til I've found someone to fit my Charge cooler and tune my PFC. Then I'll be up for it. Tho £45 is a lot for an organised day. The last one I attended was £30 per car. Mind that was with a Chav Croozin' Club so maybe for nice cars its more expensive.

Phil
Phil

Black 05 Subaru Impreza WRX Prodrive 265bhp
Ex Silverstone 03 Honda S2000GT 240bhp
Ex Silver 03 VX220 Turbo 200bhp
Ex Sable and Carbon 05 MR2 Roadster Turbo 205bhp

ChrisGB

#40
Dyno accuracy is one of those things that we have to live with. For a start, the only way to measure accurate flywheel HP is to hook the engine up to the dyno via a coupler. If you want the next best thing, run on a dyno that bolts to the hubs.

Most commercial dynos run a strain sensor against a partially flexible coupling. The system is not particularly accurate at the best of times. Strain gauges are difficult to calibrate and less than stable in anything other than ideal conditions. The best way to do it is to run a flywheel against the engine or hubs and measure the time taken for flywheel speed change. This gives hard figures with easily calculable corrections for mechanical variances.

Best we can hope for is that the tuner uses the dyno to assess the effects of adjustments. The end result will hopefully reflect how well the tuning has worked. If you really want to compare a lot of cars, the dyno day will give a rough guide. For anything remotely close to absolute figures, for the average enthusiast, forget it.

Chris
Ex 2GR-FE roadster. Sold it. Idiot.  Now Jaguar XE-S 380. Officially over by the bins.

WillsSayers

#41
I'd be up for a dyno day once my V6 is in, as I'll need an official figure to brag about!

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Anonymous

#42
Quote from: "Ilogik"
Quote from: "FGRob"It does make the car feel totally different though - I push mine regularly over the 4000 mark just for the kick  s:D :D s:D    s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

You should be OK in 4th does not really make that much difference.

wicked, will give it awhile look for alternative things to do with the intake. What did they rev your car to when you got it mapped? I had them take mine up to 8k.

8000rpm??? Please tell me they didn't run it at that.

If you rev-limit the 1zz to 7800rpm you get the same mean piston speed as the 2zz running at its stock rev limit. Remember that 2zz rods are beastly compared to the 1zz....IMHO, with a stock 1zz bottom end and those spindly rods, I wouldn't run past 7200rpm.

Like the guys say, you will get valve bounce at >7200ish with stock springs (or lower, if your springs have aged badly). I am not sure there will be much point running over 7200rpm with those cams anyway.

If you insist on raising the rev-limit to the roof, then I have a nearly-new set of uprated valve springs in the attic....

Ilogik

#43
Quote from: "sjspitz"
Quote from: "Ilogik"
Quote from: "FGRob"It does make the car feel totally different though - I push mine regularly over the 4000 mark just for the kick  s:D :D s:D    s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

You should be OK in 4th does not really make that much difference.

wicked, will give it awhile look for alternative things to do with the intake. What did they rev your car to when you got it mapped? I had them take mine up to 8k.

8000rpm??? Please tell me they didn't run it at that.

If you rev-limit the 1zz to 7800rpm you get the same mean piston speed as the 2zz running at its stock rev limit. Remember that 2zz rods are beastly compared to the 1zz....IMHO, with a stock 1zz bottom end and those spindly rods, I wouldn't run past 7200rpm.

Like the guys say, you will get valve bounce at >7200ish with stock springs (or lower, if your springs have aged badly). I am not sure there will be much point running over 7200rpm with those cams anyway.

If you insist on raising the rev-limit to the roof, then I have a nearly-new set of uprated valve springs in the attic....

damn wish i knew you had the spring would of bought the stage2's and those off you.
Current: Genuine GT300 Monocraft running a 2ZZ-GE
Ex: Trial kitted Cam\'d Power fc
Ex: TRD stage 1 TTE Turbo

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