Car bought without fob - central locking not working

[Macker85]

Hi, I'm a newbie, I did a search and couldn't find anything so I hope I've posted this in the right place,

I bought the car last week (should have bought one years ago - I love it)

I've already googled the precat problems and you guys came up in every search so you've obviously know all there is to know about the car hence I joined the club.

I bought the car but it only came with one key and no fob! It's a 2000 w reg.

When opening either of the doors with the key the central locking doesn't activate or open the other door.

First one - does anyone if the central locking should work with a manual key

Can I get a fob and get it programmed

Were it the immobiliser located?

Can I buy a complete system, I noticed a bare plug under the spare wheel and found a thread on here that said it shula have a sounder on the end of it!! The previous owners have obviously had issues with it and I'm woundering what the best route to take is. The car starts an runs fine - would it do this if there was an issue with the immobiliser,

Also I've noticed when I open the boot or bonnet the hazards flash for about 20 seconds with the engine off and on? Is this something to do with the immobiliser?

Thanks fr your help guys, I hope I've posted his in te right place

Cheers

Chris

[Anonymous]

Hazard bit I have never seen.

There should be a sounder there

And there is a step by step guide to key programming so yes that can be done

[Anonymous]

Welcome Chris. Try the fusebox first, inside the passenger door jamb. Might be as simple as a 15 amp fuse. I take it your car is a UK model MR2? Has it got a Roaster badge on the rear bumper top right corner?

[Macker85]

Yes has roadster badge,

How would I know if the immobiliser/alarm was ok and it was just a case of prev owner lost the fob,

Thanks I'll check the central locking - how is the central locking linked to the fob? Is there a fob receiver unit or is this part if the Imobiliser, I'm trying to work out how the system is set up. Anyone have a wiring diagram?

Thanks guys this is great!

[Macker85]

Sorry, uk model

Cheers

[mrzwei]

Bit weak on this stuff but I'm pretty sure that the central locking should work via the key. Someone will be able to check that.
The imobiliser is activated by the key when you put it in the ignition so my guess would be that that is working.

[Anonymous]

Immobiliser built into the cars ecu and it has a receiver. You need a two button key.

[Macker85]

Cheers guys, I'll start with a key fob then,

I take the Toyota dealer will know the programme via the reg

There's a black box behind the handbrake ( i ripped the interior out to clean it) and one behind the stereo, anyone know whats what

[Anonymous]

Cheers guys, I'll start with a key fob then,

I take the Toyota dealer will know the programme via the reg

There's a black box behind the handbrake ( i ripped the interior out to clean it) and one behind the stereo, anyone know whats what

Without seeing a pic of it I'm guessing it's the internal alarm sensor.

[Anonymous]

There two at the back of the centre console I think. One is the proximity sensor and I think the other the central locking. The one by the radio the air bag system. Key programming can be done by you and they are not coded to the ecu, but the ecu is programmed to the key

[Wabbitkilla]

If you have a key with the buttons in it then you have the fob.
The uk car cannot be started without a key with the buttons in it.
The immobiliser is built into the ecu on the UK car, the ecu cannot be "trained" for a new key without at least one of the button keys.
The central locking is activated remotely by the two button key, it is a separate box to the engine ecu.

Can you show us a photo of your key please?

[mrzwei]

Bit weak on this stuff but I'm pretty sure that the central locking should work via the key. Someone will be able to check that.
The imobiliser is activated by the key when you put it in the ignition so my guess would be that that is working.

Just to quote myself, what I meant was that the key should manually work the central locking if the central locking is working (may be wrong).
And that if you can start the car with the key then the imobiliser must be working

[Macker85]

How do I post a pic of the key on here? It's defiantly not got buttons on it. The battery has now gone flat as the indicators kep flashing every so often! I think if he sounder was still on the car that would probably be the the alarm but can work out how I have re activated the alarm system without he fob, I've had the battery off while I took the seats out to clean them!

[mrzwei]

IIRC I think the cars were supplied with three keys, two of them black 'masters' with buttons and the third greyish one. Someone with the handbook should be able to confirm that.
The alarm system is independent of the car battery so that disconnecting it can't de-activate it. My guess would be that doing that re-activated it.
Clearly the person who sold the car had similar issues.

[Wabbitkilla]

You really need to find out what's going on with this car, if you're managing to start it and drive with what is the Valeting key then it's not a UK car ... or it is fitted with an MR-S ecu. If it doesn't have an alarm unit hidden in the frunk under the space saver wheel, then it's a higher probability to not be a UK car. If it was advertised and sold as a UK car, then you need to consider the legal position as it was mis-advertised and you have been taken advantage of.

There is a connector just under the edge of the dash above your right leg as you sit in the car. This is the OBDii diagnostics port.
If you plug and OBDii code reader in, if it's a UK car you will be able to get readings and possible error codes from the car ... if it just won't communicate with the car then again it's a Japanese import MR-S.

I'm very worried you're being conned here as you can probably tell.
Did you do any checks with someone like experian to find the cars' history before buying it?

[Macker85]

The car has got Certs to say its been checked in 2005 I think

It's a w reg - if it's an import wouldn't it be a v reg?

It's just the plain grey valentine key

It opens one door at a time ( central locking may be broke ( I'll check the fuse toomorro)) then I can start the car with the same plain key??

If I open te bonnet,hood or doors the indicators start blinking, under the spate wheel is a plug with several cables which I presume was connected to te sounder at some point. What I can't get my head around was ( before the bat went flat) I can start the car with the indicators blinking (presuming this would indicate the alarm is going off with out the audible as the sounded been removed) surely I'd the alarm was going off the Imobiliser would not let me start the car and drive off??

Going to find an auto electrician next week somewhere In the midlands and see what he makes of ( when I get te battery jumped that is!)

Thanks for your help guys, loads of really usefull info about per cats and oil (so much so I don't want to drive mine until the decat pipes turm up next week ( first job)

[Wabbitkilla]

Ok, the standard alarm is separate to the immobiliser.

The immobiliser is built into the ECU hidden under the carpet in the cybby behind the passenger seat.
The alarm sits in the frunk under the space saver wheel, but many of us have moved it out of the frunk and under the plastics around it so it can be heard better.

The car can be started even if the alarm is going off, and the indicators flash with the alarm, so long as it's a proper key that the ECU immobiliser identifies. Or ... if it has an MR-S ecu which doesn't have an immobiliser at all.

I would always recommend you do your own Experian report on a car as this gives you financial protection from buying a stolen, clocked, or otherwise dodgy car. Between a "couple of years back" and now it could have been stolen and re-sold.

[mrzwei]

Yeah, forget the immobilizer (this forum continues to improve my spelling   s:D s:D  ).

The good news is that the alarm is clearly working.

There will be more expertise along but you will need a two button key (ebay?) and someone who can get around the fact that you can't programme the key to the ecu but vice versa (if I understand what others have said). If this can't be done then maybe D!ck can supply an ecu with keys and locks but I don't know if it's that simple.

[Anonymous]

The locks can be retained, but you would need to carry two ignition keys. There is a coil around the ignition barrel which speaks to the fob and is paired with the ECU. The buttons work the door locks as a separate system as I understand it. I think the ignition barrel, key and ECU would have to go together.

If you want it perfect then youd need the full lock set, 2 doors, glove box, two bins and engine cover/fuel filler lock as well as the ignition barrel lock.

[Macker85]

I just read in the manual each car come with 2 master keys (with buttons but apparently don't open glove box or rear cubbys) and a sub key ( the plan grey one without buttons) all 3 keys inc the sub key (what I've got) have a chip in for thi Imobiliser ...

That explains why I can start the car with my sub key.

I take mrT will know by my car reg what a fb should be programmed to for the alarm if I get a fob (anywhere else I can get this done cheap?)

[Anonymous]

I take mrT will know by my car reg what a fb should be programmed to for the alarm if I get a fob (anywhere else I can get this done cheap?)

Looks like Rusky has just done this and got the part from cheaptoyotaparts in the affiliates section,you should pm him for info.
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