Cam Chain

[uktotty]

Well at 140k on the clock my baby is still gong strong, very strong.
When is it a good time to start looking at cam chain replacement?

[StuC]

It should be checked at regular intervals past a certain point (80K, like other OEM's), how did it look last time you or some else checked? Any signs of wear or loseness?

I'd guess by the 150K mark you might be on borrowed time.

[uktotty]

Checked?
Looked?
:O

[StuC]

You saying...
If it ain't broke...?  s;-) ;-) s;-)

[Wabbitkilla]

I've been pondering the same, but I'm just up to 108k so far.
They're good for 140k as standard I believe, I would.d certainly have the can cover off and do a check according to the bgb to check for stretch ... Remember like bike chains they stretch Russ and you know the damage they do when they let go.

I'm going to probably replace mine around 120k to 130k as my engine does live in the higher end of the rev range.

[uktotty]

Cheers Guys, will certainly give it a priority.
Easy job?
Do the tensioners at the same time?

[Wabbitkilla]

While your in there Russ, I think it's sensible to at least do the tensioner and the slippers that run either side of the chain.
I plan to do those, plus the oil and water pumps along with replacing the vvti controller on the end of the intake camshaft.

[nathanMR2]

Well it was easy until you replace everything down the right hand side   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

I was actually wondering about this the other day but it sounds like i should be ok for a bit yet. Im sure the turbo would possibly speed the wear up a bit.

I assume this would be fair easier with the engine out

[uktotty]

I'm sure Custard will help, he always does  s:) s:)

[Wabbitkilla]

It is fiddly but possible with engine in apparently, turbos can actually caused accelerated stretch in the chain from what I've seen in Site's car. But then before sorting it he had been using a lot of oil and had resorted to cheap oil. Cheap oil isn't good for the chain, never mind the rest of the engine. I could hear my chain whirring at times until I put in the Fuchs expensive oil, it now sounds lovely all over again.

[nathanMR2]

Ive never been one to skrimp on oil or services so hopefully this will help.

I can just imagine it being a right pain to work down that side trying to get everything in and out.

[Wabbitkilla]

Oh yes Nathan, some of that work has to be done by touch   s:scared: :scared: s:scared:

[MattPerformance]

Personally I'd wait for you to be able to hear excessive chain noise.  I've only come across one chain that has stretched beyond the serviceable limit and I knew it had before I got a vernier anywhere near it - it was rattly as hell!!
The chain tensioner/ runners are wearing parts so if they have wear (the wear limit is 1mm IIRC but I tend to replace if there's anything more than a trace of wear) then replace them, if not it certainly "ain't broke".  The hydraulic/ ratchet tensioner itself is worth a preemptive change IMO especially at an incredibly reasonable £35 from Mr T and a few minutes to fit.

[normanh]

If the chain wears that bad you should always look at repalcing ther sprockets at the sam e time! Common practice on bikes!

norman

[MattPerformance]

There is a procedure for checking sprocket wear also (and you're right, on the one occasion I have had to replace the chain I also had to replace the crank sprocket)

Edited to say: by the way, I wouldn't be tempted to do it in situ.  I know I have tha advantage of having done quite a few of these engines but I'm positive I could get the engine out, cam chain etc replaced and engine back in faster than trying to do it in situ.  You can re-use the engine coolant and you don't need to drop the oil out of the engine or gearbox.  I really don't think it's worth taking the risk of a mistake that might occur doing it in situ.