TD04 Turbo

[Mark A]

Therefore do the colors look right? Found two pictures both with different coloured wiring positions

[Swan_Connery]

That's how mine is wired.

left signal, middle +5v right ground.

[Mark A]

Welded up the remaining exhaust section and connected the 2nd lambda, battery dead and won't hold any charge but it started using the Odyssey from the race car. Ran really rich on standard ecu and tracked down a massive air leak by the MAF. Still running rich and very lumpy, won't rev without coughing and popping, not sure what the problem is. Connected the E-manage and won't run for more than 5secs. Any ideas why?
Still final few issues to resolve before its all sorted. Nice to hear it running today, been 3 months since it last was moving. Need to sort out the front mount radiator and pipe work for the IC before its nailed.

[Mark A]

Another half day on the car, new injectors fitted after being modified to fit.



Another lambda sensor welded on, and a couple of other minor bits. Played around with emanage and load a couple of other maps which seem to at least get the thing started and running but still rough and rich. So looks like I need to read up on the manage until I can find the time to get it properly mapped.

[Mark A]

Front mounted charge cooler radiator mounted and pipe work to rear all in place, final couple of jobs to do.


Still struggling to get it started easily, once started sounds like its really running rich, suspect the fueling map I'm using is all over the place and 640s injectors are running it very rich, so might attempt to adjust it so I can run around in it.

[stupink]

I found the injector scaling does work, but you're better off using trial and error with a wideband rather than maths to calculate the figures.
Just play around with it at idle watching the fuel trims till they zero out. (have all 0000 on the manage fuel map for that area when you're doing this)

[Mark A]

What does the airflow adjustment map do? On one of the maps it seems to jump from -3 at idle to +5 at 2k then back down to -3

[stupink]

its worth reading as you said. and making a decision yourself based on what you read, but I don't personally use the airflow adjustment map, mines Zeroed out everywhere.. it does exactly that, lies to the ecu about how much air is flowing, and so it ajusts fuel AND ignition.  I forget the reason for the map as it was years ago I did mine, but I think most use it to correct idle issues, personally I found it made mine worse.. so I just use fuel and ignition tables.
I believe its a bit of a left-over map really, and not needed, it was in existence originally because the emanage blue was unable to remove fuel... so you had to lie about air flow... but the ultimate can add and remove fuel, so its not needed.

[Mark A]

Cheers Stu, had a quick play with it tonight before too antisocial for the neighbours, zero'd out the AF adjustment and starts, stops and idles a lot better, still running a little rich but assume that's the leap from standard injectors to 640's. I need to understand how to take a little more fuel out around the idle etc on the E-manage blue. Thanks for the advice at least I'm making some progress.

[stupink]

I found injector scaling, and then using a fuel pressure reg that was connected to the inlet (so it adds fuel on boost, and removes on vacuum) created a fueling setup that worked really well.. I still have a fuel table obviously, but doing it that way all my fuel table cels have positive figures and no negative.
If its only a little out simply don't worry about it.. until it warms up its running open loop, soon as I goes closed loop the lambda sensor will make fuel trim ajustments on the OEM ecu and fix the idle.  but there are limits to the fuel trims, ?20%? I think.. and if you rely on trims too heavily everytime you disconnect the battery it will run crap again until the trims re-ajust.

[keljon]

Cheers Stu, had a quick play with it tonight before too antisocial for the neighbours, zero'd out the AF adjustment and starts, stops and idles a lot better, still running a little rich but assume that's the leap from standard injectors to 640's. I need to understand how to take a little more fuel out around the idle etc on the E-manage blue. Thanks for the advice at least I'm making some progress.

out of interest, what values do you have for injector sizes and lag?

[Mark A]

I'd need to check the map but entered injector values of 260cc to 640cc which from memory was around the .38-0.4 mark in the little box next to the injectors values. Does that sound right?

[Mark A]

Bought a boost pressure switch, so the pump is not running 100% of the time. Plan to set the pump start value at 2-3psi and see how I get on.

[keljon]

let me check mine, reason i ask is mine ran rich with the wrong latency values

I'd need to check the map but entered injector values of 260cc to 640cc which from memory was around the .38-0.4 mark in the little box next to the injectors values. Does that sound right?

[Mark A]

Not the best picture, if I use the MAP sensor do I just select Greddy PR?

[stupink]

Blue v's ultimate have different injector scale settings hence keljon is asking about latency settings..
I used a GM sensor and just selected Greddy yeah, the scaling was wrong, but thast only an issue if you don't accept its wrong.. (ie your car may make 7psi, but the emanage may read 12psi..)   just consider that while mapping.

[Mark A]

Fitted a Dawes MBC just to keep the boost in check. Once I've fitted a boost gauge I'll adjust it a little, set it low to start with and took it around the block, still running rich but boost builds early.

Still struggling to start it and make it idle when it's cold, as soon as its warm it's OK, any suggestions?

[stupink]

sorry if you already posted figues, but I want to get it clear in my head, What do you think is "too rich"

So what AFR does it fast idle at when you first start it cold?  (it will be richer than when warm, that's normal).
Also what are the long and short term fuel trims at this point..  (if you don't know these i'd check, get an obd2 dongle and torque for android and look them up in "torque scan" or by setting two gauges one for each"..

Did you fit an uprated fuel pump? these rarely have valves, so your fuel pressure drops making it hard to crank..  you can buy a one way valve put put into the pipe after the pump if that's the case..

[Mark A]

Torque scan plugged in but not really had a chance to really study it.

I say it's running rich because I can smell the unburnt fuel and the exhaust gases look black, plus it's proper back firing on over run, don't have a AFR meter yet.

Standard pump at the moment but I have a spare Walbro

If the standard injectors are 280 and the maximum I can run is 150% which is 700?

[stupink]

Just a quick comment this time, until you get the AFR and fuel trim information you're just guessing so kinda wasting your time a little, get the gauges on asap  s:) s:)

anyhow my quick comment.... I seem to recall greddy are weird..   150% if I recall (I only use that figure as you quote it) is 150% of the standard..  so 280 standard, 100% would be..... 280...  200% would be 560.   I don't know what happens when you enter an invalid figure or if that's even true. its been years since I had a blue.

[Mark A]

Still trying to address the cold start issues while I wait for the AFR meter, removed the Greddy and the car started 1st time so the settings on the Greddy must be wrong!

Also looks like the maximum injector size I can run on the blue is 420cc and I have 630cc's

[stupink]

you can put anything you want in.. however the injector scaling won't work beyond that point.. and you'll have to map for it.

until you have your wideband (if you must drive the car) use the short term/long term trims to fix..  start the car.. look at them both and try to even them out (afr is not needed to tune part throttle, you can do that on trims).

So if you have a longterm trim of -20 (I expect you do.. ) and a short term of -20 (again I expect you do) this means both are trying to remove maximum fuel, so remove some from the emanage, this Is where you need airflow adjustment on the blue.. but annoyingly it now ajusts the ignition too.. which you don't really want. but its all you can do.   as a shortcut you temporarily want it so the trims cancel out.. so longterm trim says something like -15 but short term says +15 that means soon as the longterm trim has time to ajust they will both be around zero.

[Mark A]

OK bear with me for not waiting until the AFR meter arrives but I'm keen for it to at least start with out having to use the battery booster. If I disconnect the Greddy PR in parameter settings it starts first time and runs OK at idle. The Real time dash also shows a reading of -147kPa is that right, even while idling or with just the ignition on?

[stupink]

I don't deal with kpa myself really, but for an idle figure that isn't far wrong... it is a bit low, but the sensors not calibrated so merr... but it should be different between idle and off..

however what are your maps?  if you disconnect the sensor is it throttle position v's rpm? or airflow v's rpm? does that change if you connect the sensor by default to pressure v's rpm? if not it sholdnt make a difference.

[Mark A]

Right back in the room!

Bought some cheap 2nd hand Astra VXR injectors and modified them to fit the Toyota fuel rail.Fitted them at the weekend and now have injectors which will operate within the limits of Greddy Emanage Blue. Innovate AFR gauge bought off Ebay for a steal and that arrived yesterday, so hopefully I'll fit that this weekend with a boost gauge and then have a play at mapping it.