The Gulf...

[Ardent]

That does look rather neat.

[Oddshoes]

For years I always looked around to see if there was a models or toys of my car and this month I came across a few in Japan and managed to snag a couple from Japan, they are made by Tomica Jr and today 2 of they landed with me they are a little smaller than Hotwheels model. Thich is good as I am hoping to use one and get a custom made Japanese epoxy gear knob with it

[Oddshoes]

Yesterday was an interesting day as it started off with me cancelling work and then doing the school run only to have someone crash into the rear quarter my Nissan Cube Autech Rider (Z12) when it was parked up, I was next to it with my son thankfully but I'm pretty sure it will be a write off sadly as it a structural panel. The person who side swiped it has accepted responsibility which is great so now its just getting it all sorted, but while I was off sorting stuff I checked Equipment4garges website and they had their quick lifts in stock as well as their pinch blocks so I ordered a set for collection as they are only just under a hour away from me in an area I used to know well too.
As they offered Klarna and winters coming up I treated myself as it works out as £434 per month for 3 months they do offer a 6 month option too but it was to difficult to get that for me as I am a self employed gardener and winter is just around the corner. But as it's been a bit of equipment I have been looking at for years to finally took the plunge and bought it so am happy.

[Ardent]

Right now I would be happy to have somewhere flat. Level would be bonus.

[The Other Stu]

Right now I would be happy to have somewhere flat. Level would be bonus.

I feel your pain brother.

In fact, having a drive that isn't in 1000 pieces would be a great start.
It needs a complete re-tarmac.

[Oddshoes]

To be fair having the workshop (7mx5m) in the back garden was a strong reason for buying our house, it even has it own electric circuit and the alarm system is also connected to the house! I did however have to do some work to get a solid floor in it as the previous owner built it with a false wooden floor as that's all he needed for his track motorbikes.



The photo shows me standing on the soil underneath the floor in 2018... 11 dumpy bags of MOT Type 1, 2 bags of sharp sand, 40sqM of DPM and re- bar setup over a May bank holiday worth of work and I had got my sub base in. The following weekend I had a concrete knocked up and laid. Our workshop has been an on-going project as well as the cars and everything else in life lol. The floor is now solid and 14 inches higher than it used to be, we've also painted inside and out, the lighting has been swapped from tubes to LED's and the floor is also topped off with interlocking solid PVC tiles (recycled plastic). 

[Oddshoes]

I feel your pain brother.

In fact, having a drive that isn't in 1000 pieces would be a great start.
It needs a complete re-tarmac.

Ouch

[Oddshoes]

One of the reasons for getting the quick lifts was to make working on our cars and equipment easier, so with this in mind before I send "the Gulf" back up to Rouge Motorsport again for some more work so it can hopefully see the road for the first time in 6 years.

The plan is I want to refresh the suspension and handling components and eventually freshen up underneath with a dry ice blasting and some form of protection. The first step will be replacing my old Agrosta coilovers for a brand new set of BC coilovers BR Series RA with 3.5/5 spring rates.

I also have a brand new OEM subframe I am going to fit so while I am at it I also want to replace or refresh the old arm and Cusco components and while in the area I will also replace worn bushes. As the ball joint in the Toe arms isnt a serviceable item I am looking at get a pair of adjustable ones from Gravity Performance has any one done this and if so whats your experience?

Adjustable rear toe arms

[moca2cv]

I have the hardrace toe arms, waste of time as you can't get a spanner on the half nut at the subframe. I use the stock cam bolts to adjust toe.

TTT solved it by making that joint longer: https://technotoytuning.com/rear-toe-links-zzw30-mr2-spyder/

Not seen the Gravity ones in the flesh but they look similar to the Hardrace...

It's a shame new stock toe arms are Hardrace price, as those with a polybush would be perfect for a road/track car.

[Oddshoes]

I have the hardrace toe arms, waste of time as you can't get a spanner on the half nut at the subframe. I use the stock cam bolts to adjust toe.

TTT solved it by making that joint longer: https://technotoytuning.com/rear-toe-links-zzw30-mr2-spyder/

Not seen the Gravity ones in the flesh but they look similar to the Hardrace...

It's a shame new stock toe arms are Hardrace price, as those with a polybush would be perfect for a road/track car.

Thanks for the info   

I was debating buying new OEM toe arms and only considered hardrace because of being adjustable for the same money

[Oddshoes]

Here's another question I am pondering on!

I'm currently have a number of parts in my Fensport Performance basket but am pondering on this question?

Is it better to go for standard replacement front wishbones and add Hardrace Roll Centre Adjusters or go for front wishbones with uprated bushes including uprated caster alignment I just cant seem to make up my mind!

What would be your choice for a B road blaster (road going) car?

[moca2cv]

My 2p. If you've lowered the car 50mm+ or so, then the roll centre adjusters will be useful on the road. The car will still be miserable to drive though, because you're too low

Caster - probably more useful. If you have coilovers with adjustable top mounts you can rotate the top mounts and increase caster with camber, max it out up top and adjust to suit at the hub. If not on coilovers, and only for road, personal preference really. I'd probably leave it and just get regular polybushes.

Edit: just looked back through your thread and see you don't have adjustable top mounts. However it looks like you could possibly swap the top mounts side to side and gain some caster without losing much camber.

Edit 2: wait, you ordered BCs! They do have adjustable top mounts. Rotate them so they point at the heater intake.

[Oddshoes]

To be honest I don't know how much lower than stock it is as with the kit on it's hard to tell and it's always been that height as far as I know since i first got it in August 2016. As the inspection at Rogue Motorsport earlier this year showed deterioration and metal fatigue on the top mounts and as the coilovers are probably the same age i'll change the lot as its likely to be original equipment.

Looking at my current old Aragosta coilover setup as the top of the shock seems to be quite inboard at the front.

You have to start somewhere so I've now got a plan starting the rear end and it began today with ordering

- New OEM rear toe arms from Japan via Ebay
- New Camber Adjustment bolts 15mm from Fensport
- New Camber/Toe Adjust bolts from Fensport
- New Rear Sub-frame bolts from Fensport
- Tein adjustable Anti Roll bar link from Fensport
- SuperPro rear trailing arm bush kit and rear lower control arm inner bush kit from Fensport
- Brand new OEM sub frame I had on my shelving
- Brand new OEM rear brake disk shields I bought off Facebook

[Oddshoes]

I bought this from Japan a few weeks ago as it's a nice little touch I believe while also making sure who ever drives it knows where the gears are

[Oddshoes]

I also got my first delivery of which came from Fensport allowing me to start refreshing the back end so




I do a new pair of OEM rear toe arm coming from Japan which should be with me early to mid November to fit to a brand new unused OEM sub frame

[Oddshoes]

I've started working on refreshing and tidying up the rear suspension this week on the rear drivers side which meant starting with jack up the car.... I hope you got the reference   

Remove the wheel, Remove the arch liner, cut the old drop link and remove the old coilover
 

I took the time to also clean the arch and offer up the new BC coilover


I gave it a few days to dry out after the cleaning and then removed the coilover attached the Tein adjustable droplink and coated the treads and bodies in ACF-50 to help with combat future corrosion and seizing. While the arch was fairly bare and dry I also took the chance to give it a quick spray paint using Raptor Bed liner paint. Once it all dried I refitted all components and added a 15mm Eibach camber bolt
 

 

While working there I also removed my rear Cusco anti roll bar to see its condition and try to work out if its worth selling both Cusco ARB's and buy new Whiteline replacement ones as the are the thickness  or just strip, clean and repaint my Cusco ones as the bushes also seem fine.
 

 

As my rear brake disks and pads are Endless ones they are super expensive to replace I am happy they are still ok without any lips its something that can get replaced further down the line once its got back on the road a while.