more 2 related time off work

Anonymous · January 31, 2005, 16:00

this time its in for ,
water slushing about in back
full lock knocking
every wind deflector bolt being loose or missing
body flexing

ive got me a new computer,- and its taken me an hour to remember my password and how to spell slidey mc slideslide, with the right capitals and spacing, - that will teach me to have a stupid name

Anonymous · January 31, 2005, 16:02

Quote from: "Slidey McSlideSlide (dave"body flexing...

Understand everything but this, elaborate please

Anonymous · January 31, 2005, 16:22

particually bad creeking when not on flat surface,- as if the chasis is made of wood. makes the car sound old and cheap. going over speed bumps, and curbs ect.

Anonymous · January 31, 2005, 16:28

Quote from: "Slidey McSlideSlide (dave"ive got me a new computer,- and its taken me an hour to remember my password and how to spell slidey mc slideslide, with the right capitals and spacing, - that will teach me to have a stupid name

s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Tem · February 1, 2005, 08:14

Quote from: "Slidey McSlideSlide (dave"particually bad creeking when not on flat surface,- as if the chasis is made of wood. makes the car sound old and cheap. going over speed bumps, and curbs ect.

That's a feature and the cure is called AntiFlexPlate s;)

s;)

Anonymous · February 1, 2005, 13:01

You have a great name, Slidey. Every time I see it, I think, "That guy better get himself some decent tires!" Then I laugh and pour myself another drink. In this way, life passes merrily along.

Quotewater slushing about in back
full lock knocking
every wind deflector bolt being loose or missing
body flexing

The water bit means you've got clogged drains. See, when rainwater runs down the back of your top, it proceeds through the body of your car and empties out through a valve on the inside on your side vents. Cleaning those is basic operator maintenance.

Don't know what "full lock knocking" is. Can you explain?

Wind deflector bolts tighten with an allen wrench. Takes about a minute or so.

Tem's explained the body flex. That's why the a'pexi or Corky plates wind up on so many cars.

Anonymous · February 1, 2005, 16:28

when the car is started cold, and full lock is on, it sounds like the tyres are rubbing against the wheel arches and it bangs, and lurches, then it stops when ive driven a short distance, im hoping to get new tyres out of it on warranty, as it must be a tyre fault. - and new shocks. I could probobly fix the slushing, but id prefer them to do it whilst theyve got it in.

Anonymous · February 2, 2005, 09:51

Quote from: "Slidey McSlideSlide (dave"when the car is started cold, and full lock is on, it sounds like the tyres are rubbing against the wheel arches and it bangs, and lurches, then it stops when ive driven a short distance, im hoping to get new tyres out of it on warranty, as it must be a tyre fault. - and new shocks. I could probobly fix the slushing, but id prefer them to do it whilst theyve got it in.

Slidey,

There have been numerous posts on this and I have made a lot of them!!! I ad the sme thing and couldn't really get to the bottom of the full lock knocking. But this is a quick go over what happened and what was said. Quite interesting you might think.........

Took car to Toyota with same problem you are reporting. Said there was a problem with top suspension mounts at front. Changed under warranty and the problem went away........for a while..........

About 3-4 months later, knocking came back. So back to MrT. They said it was the power steering lines being "too long" or something like that. So changed under warranty. Cured problem, for a while..........

Knocking came back again. So back again to MrT. This time, technician came out with me and had a listen and said, yes, there is a knock. Leave it with us. Checked everything over, tightened everything they could, couldn't find a problem. But DID come up with a conclusion. They said it was the tyres gripping and "skipping" across the road under lock when they broke traction and moving back to their proper position. This tended to happen more in damp weather. They gave me the analogy of sliding your fingers tightly across as wet piece of glass. Your fingers will grip while you are pushing, but then they will lose that grip and move easily across the glass. Same thing with the tyres.

I was very sceptical, but they said there was nothing to be done about it. So I went away and lived with it for a while. And strangely, the noise DID go away as the weather started to get better in the spring and summer. So there might have been something in it.

What turned it for me was when I changed my tyres from stock Bridgies to Toyo Proxes. The wet weather has come back with a vengeance and I have to say, I have not had a single peep of noise from the front end in terms of knocking, banging or sliding. Which is good!

So, for a change, MrT may well have actually been telling the truth!!! The old stock Bridgies (and the Yokos for that matter cos people with those have heard it too) did "grip" and skip in the damp weather and it did go away in the dry. And new tyres seem to have cured the problem altogether. I wouldn't worry too much about this problem to be honest. Yes, the suspension mount thing is a known fault and they will change them and so is the power steering pipe issue too. But I reckon the tyres are the biggest cuprit, so don't panic too much!!!!

Hope this all helps

Anonymous · February 2, 2005, 10:01

Mine was fixed, same tyres with different struct mounts done on warrenty, been perfect ever since.

In fact, i had structs that didn't make a noise,
Then a swapped with Adam, when I lowered the car, noise started.
Had the front two replaced, noise stopped.
Had the rear to replaced, just to make them all the same age.