What ECU for stage 2 cams

Started by KRAMSNEHPETS, April 14, 2019, 20:55

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

KRAMSNEHPETS

What Piggy back or ECU are people running on a 2ZZ with stage 2 cams?. track use only.
2004 Red edition. 2ZZ engine with Rotrex 30 94 supercharger,90mm pulley. Link Storm ECU. Charge cooler. Custom Meggalian exhaust.Uprated fuel pump, regulator and rail.840 injectors.323 BHP at the hubs. Meistier coil overs. Matt under body brace. Front and rear, upper and lower braces,list goes on...

mikek

Ecumaster black from Greg at RRR engineering. Great deal, great piece of kit.
New little car to follow soon

Ex 2zz by Rogue. Se7en cams. BMC CDA. Competion clutches lightened flywheel, Megillian Racing Exhaust. TRD sportivo suspension and ARB\'s. TRD braces. TRD quick shift. TRD dash kit, Matts brace. Getting there but not sure when it will stop!

1979scotte

@mikek could have a point @KRAMSNEHPETS by the time you buy something secondhand like an Apexi and have it mapped you could end up spending that sort of money anyway.
I really don't like piggybacks either but for na maybe they work ok.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Nvy

Have dastek unichip in the for sale section if it works for you.

shnazzle

For cams I'd argue for the Apexi PFC to be honest. It's a relatively small change to the system and everything would work. The PFC is still the only standalone that has a specific 1zz and 2zz version for the MR2.

A good piggyback (Dastek, as much as I hate it, is the most feature-rich) has a lot of good points. You retain all of the good work Toyota has done for smooth transitions, starting, closed loop fueling, knock adjustment, changes in temperature etc etc mapped over hundreds and hundreds of hours of real-life driving.

Standalone means you start from scratch. To get the same level of perfect drive every time, expect 2-3 remap sessions over a long period of time. Lots of logging and possibly tweaking things yourself.
...neutiquam erro.

1979scotte

@shnazzle
Apexi still needs mapping it only has a base map from new you can't go driving around track with it especially with cams.
Secondhand will also still need mapping and have no warranty.
The Apexi is like any other stand-alone only as good as the person who maps it.

For cheap go piggyback.
If you want it done properly go for the Black.
For me the Apexi isnt cheap enough certainly not as BNIB.
Maybe if you can get cheap enough secondhand with a usable map it could be.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

Call the midlife!

Someone just remind me please, the RRR Ecumaster, does that retain the EML light functionality on the dash? As opposed to the PFC that doesn't?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
60% of the time it works everytime...

shnazzle



Quote from: 1979scotte on April 15, 2019, 11:21
@shnazzle
Apexi still needs mapping it only has a base map from new you can't go driving around track with it especially with cams.
Secondhand will also still need mapping and have no warranty.
The Apexi is like any other stand-alone only as good as the person who maps it.

For cheap go piggyback.
If you want it done properly go for the Black.
For me the Apexi isnt cheap enough certainly not as BNIB.
Maybe if you can get cheap enough secondhand with a usable map it could be.

A kna dat! What I mean is that with the PFC you don't also need the stock ECU wired in as well. And, the base maps are more developed than for other standalones. Still require a good day on the dyno.
2nd hand indeed would be the way to go.
Chances are you're going to get a good day to day map quicker on the PFC. But, sacrificing lots of good things of newer standalones. It's an ancient bit of kit.

Obviously my vote goes to the Black. But, I also know that the Black definitely needed a fair bit of tweaking for all the real-world scenarios Greg didn't hit on the dyno. I had to do a lot of cold start adjustments, tip-in/overrun fueling adjustments, etc. Still needed a good day on the dyno at least, fueled by a good few days of logs to load into the auto-tune.
Just highlighting that while standalone will extract the most power and add lots of nice new features, it's the most work and don't expect a fully smooth experience from day 1.

Having said that, post-standalone the turbo car was at least 10x better than it was on the piggyback, despite its issues, so a piggyback can also thoroughly destroy the driveability of the car if tuned incorrectly.
To the point of being dangerous and harmful.

I have no idea what I want to say anymore. Do owt you like, as long as you get it tuned properly. It literally lives and dies by its tune.
Emanage Ultimate piggy (possibly with v-Manage for vvti. Very good bit of kit 2nd hand)
Dastek Unichip Q+ piggy (most features, if you have a specific Dastek mapper nearby, Dastek owner is a bit of a funny fckr)
ECUMaster DET3 piggy (new entrant, not many super positive stories yet)
Apexi PFC (built specifically for 1zz/2zz mr2, loads of case studies, plug and play judt mapping but old as the road to roam and key features missing)
ECUMaster Black (cost/benefit is king on this guy and great support, easy to map, free software)
Link G4 (top-level stuff but harder to fit and expensive)
Syvecs - silly money
...neutiquam erro.

Tags: