External head gasket oil weep, fix solutions?

[JB21]

Noticed a very slight weep from the head gasket on my 2ZZ swapped Roadster when coming off track. Originally thought it could of been the rocker cover, or maybe the oil control valve housing, as this sits right above, but its not. Its defo from the gasket circled below.



Engine is now 22 years old, and has 155k miles on it, so no real surprise given how much it gets abused.

When I say weep, its literally just a drip after a 10 lap session. Even the 100 mile journey home there was only a slight drip.

I'm thinking of using something like JB weld, either the putty or epoxy to try and seal it given its in a very accessible location.

I don't think the oil channels within the head are highly pressurised like the coolant channels, so it may cure the weep.

Thoughts? Leave it be and see how it goes or try and seal it before it gets worse?

[Dev]

Sorry to hear and that is not very good news. I say it doesn't hurt to try and then monitor your coolant to see if its mixing and monitor to see if it gets worse.
If you ever had an overheat condition it can slightly warp the mating surfaces and start leaking but its usually coolant. the block would be trash even even if you replaced the gasket.

[rusty0273]

Interested to see if you get anywhere diagnosing or fixing this one as that's exactly the spot that I can see a bit of oil weeping on my 2ZZ. Can't be sure if its originating from there or from the front of the engine and making its way around. I'm just living with it for now as its the occasional drop only.

[JB21]

Interested to see if you get anywhere diagnosing or fixing this one as that's exactly the spot that I can see a bit of oil weeping on my 2ZZ. Can't be sure if its originating from there or from the front of the engine and making its way around. I'm just living with it for now as its the occasional drop only.

I'm going to talc the whole area up around that corner of the head gasket, then go for a drive and this should pin point exactly where the leak is coming from.

Once fully located, I will then JB weld the shit out of it!

[Alex Knight]

Call me crazy, but I'd replace the headgasket.

[JB21]

Call me crazy, but I'd replace the headgasket.

Got a sprint on Saturday and track day on the 21st, I ain't got the time.

[Joesson]

My understanding is that a head gasket seals the joint between the cylinder head and the engine block. Passing between these two are liquids, oil and coolant and gasses from ignition. All are pressurised, the gases particularly so. If the oil at, say 60 PSI/ 4 Bar is finding its way out I suggest that the combustion gases at many times that pressure will sooner or later find a way. I can't envisage a proprietary sealant resolving that issue.

[Dev]

My understanding is that a head gasket seals the joint between the cylinder head and the engine block. Passing between these two are liquids, oil and coolant and gasses from ignition. All are pressurised, the gases particularly so. If the oil at, say 60 PSI/ 4 Bar is finding its way out I suggest that the combustion gases at many times that pressure will sooner or later find a way. I can't envisage a proprietary sealant resolving that issue.

  This is usually the beginning stages of the gasket giving way. A majority of the time head gasket failure starts by mixing the oil with the coolant or either of these fluids leaking in the cylinder. Other times coolant comes out of the head  and it becomes a catastrophic failure. Having oil weep out is something I never seen but with all of these kind of head gasket failures it propagates and gets larger.
  Just changing the gasket is not like it use to be when we used iron blocks. These all aluminum engines can warp easily and unless the mating surfaces are checked it will require machining otherwise the likelihood of having another blown gasket is very high. When you factor in costs involved its better to buy another used engine. These aluminum open deck engines are nice for weight savings and cooling  but have a reputation for being disposable.

[JB21]

My understanding is that a head gasket seals the joint between the cylinder head and the engine block. Passing between these two are liquids, oil and coolant and gasses from ignition. All are pressurised, the gases particularly so. If the oil at, say 60 PSI/ 4 Bar is finding its way out I suggest that the combustion gases at many times that pressure will sooner or later find a way. I can't envisage a proprietary sealant resolving that issue.

  This is usually the beginning stages of the gasket giving way. A majority of the time head gasket failure starts by mixing the oil with the coolant or either of these fluids leaking in the cylinder. Other times coolant comes out of the head  and it becomes a catastrophic failure. Having oil weep out is something I never seen but with all of these kind of head gasket failures it propagates and gets larger.
  Just changing the gasket is not like it use to be when we used iron blocks. These all aluminum engines can warp easily and unless the mating surfaces are checked it will require machining otherwise the likelihood of having another blown gasket is very high. When you factor in costs involved its better to buy another used engine. These aluminum open deck engines are nice for weight savings and cooling  but have a reputation for being disposable.

I'll see how it goes over these next 2 events and take it from there. I'll more than likely pull the engine, take the head off and check for warp on the head and block. If in spec I'll just replace the head gasket and bolts. If warped, then I'll source a replacement engine.

[Dev]

My understanding is that a head gasket seals the joint between the cylinder head and the engine block. Passing between these two are liquids, oil and coolant and gasses from ignition. All are pressurised, the gases particularly so. If the oil at, say 60 PSI/ 4 Bar is finding its way out I suggest that the combustion gases at many times that pressure will sooner or later find a way. I can't envisage a proprietary sealant resolving that issue.

  This is usually the beginning stages of the gasket giving way. A majority of the time head gasket failure starts by mixing the oil with the coolant or either of these fluids leaking in the cylinder. Other times coolant comes out of the head  and it becomes a catastrophic failure. Having oil weep out is something I never seen but with all of these kind of head gasket failures it propagates and gets larger.
  Just changing the gasket is not like it use to be when we used iron blocks. These all aluminum engines can warp easily and unless the mating surfaces are checked it will require machining otherwise the likelihood of having another blown gasket is very high. When you factor in costs involved its better to buy another used engine. These aluminum open deck engines are nice for weight savings and cooling  but have a reputation for being disposable.

I'll see how it goes over these next 2 events and take it from there. I'll more than likely pull the engine, take the head off and check for warp on the head and block. If in spec I'll just replace the head gasket and bolts. If warped, then I'll source a replacement engine.

It doesn't hurt financially if you're doing your own work to find out.

[JB21]

Just an update on this. I think the issue was an overfill of oil. On the last oil service before Anglesey I filled up the engine with 5.7L of oil. This is the max that the Elise parts baffled sump can hold. I'd never filled up with this much oil before, but knowing I was running slicks on a high G track I wanted to be safe.

Since the fill up and numerous track days I noticed the weep got better with oil consumption. I've now used around 0.7L over 3 track days and around 300 road miles and the weep seems to be gone. Looks like the 5.7L was to much creating additional pressure within the engine causing the weep. Makes since as I didn't account for additional oil still inside the engine, bet there was at least a few hundred ml left in there.

Lesson learnt!

[Dev]

I think the best way to solve any kind of oiling issue with high G forces is to use a large Accusump mounted in the cubby.
Its the next best thing to a dry sump because it will take up any slack with a drop in oil pressure which is better than all other methods.


 

[JB21]

Well don't I feel a bit silly. The weep continued so I was sure it was the headgasket, that sure I've purchased a replacement engine 🙄

Turns out it was just the oil control valve housing above leaking down onto the gasket out of sight, and then the oil made its way around the front of the gasket.

Ahh well, I've got a lower mileage spare now. Might bang some cams in there and build the head up. Then purchase the RK9 intake plentium and standalone ecu. Would be good for 9k rpm and 220hp.

[Topdownman]

Glad it wasnt as bad as feared!

A spare engine is a nice thing to have too.

[rusty0273]

Well don't I feel a bit silly. The weep continued so I was sure it was the headgasket, that sure I've purchased a replacement engine 🙄

Turns out it was just the oil control valve housing above leaking down onto the gasket out of sight, and then the oil made its way around the front of the gasket.

Ahh well, I've got a lower mileage spare now. Might bang some cams in there and build the head up. Then purchase the RK9 intake plentium and standalone ecu. Would be good for 9k rpm and 220hp.

Glad that you've found the issue because that's probably the same issue with mine. Is that leaking valve housing accessible with the engine in the car?

[rusty0273]

Just done a bit of googling and see its on the side of the engine, quite accessible. It does look a bit oily on my engine so will take a closer look at that. Thanks for posting this.