Checklist for 2ZZ engine before fitting?

[JB21]

Starting my 2ZZ-GE engine replacement this weekend and have put together a check list to do before re-fitting the new (used) unit. I'm not opening up the new engine as its relatively low mileage, below is my current check list to do before fitting.

Can you think of anything else?

•   Change Lift bolts
•   Check Valve clearances
•   Check Timing
•   Check Timing chain tensioner has teeth left to tension the chain further
•   Check VVT Cam actuator is moving freely
•   Clean Lift & VVT filters
•   Check all pulleys and idlers for movement and make sure they are spinning freely
•   Check Pulleys are all the same as current engine (inc idler)
•   Check Sensors are all the same (inc knock sensor, should be single wire)
•   Copy blocked pipes from old engine
•   Check if air injected (different intake manifold and exhaust manifold gaskets if air injected)

Part I'm changing on the new engine below, can you think of anything else?

•   Lift bolts (new)
•   Intake manifold gasket (new)
•   Spark plugs (new)
•   Aux belt (new)
•   Water pump from old engine as it has <3000 miles on it
•   Valve cover from old engine as all gaskets and seals <1000 miles on them

[AJRFulton]

If you're going that far, I'd take VVT actuator Cam off, remove the very annoying 5 sided bolts (which will confuse the f**k out of you if you didn't know about them, until you feel like moron for trying to fit various hex socket to them for 15 minutes and wondering why the f*ck nothing fits), and give it a good clean out.

I've seen used engines with it gunky and others with it spotless. It's an easy job when engines out and rockers off. Obviously be very careful with timing chain.

Id also replace the 5 sided studs with 6 sided ones!

[Dev]

It looks like you are covered. The only thing I can think of is to make sure the knock sensor is at the right torque as it is very crucial according to Little Rocket.

I would also check to make sure the throttle plate does not have any leaks and that the IAC valve is clean.

I would remove the alternator bolts and then add some anti size for insurance incase it has to come out some day. Basically anything that is hard to get to should be addressed now.

This is a good time to inspect the wiring and all connectors. I would clean all of the connectors with electrical contact spray and then add dielectric grease on the sliding surfaces of the plastic connectors so it doesn't become frozen and very hard to remove. Do not let any of the dielectric grease touch any of the metal only plastic.

You can fix most everything else after the install but items from the front of the engine are much harder to work on.

[JB21]

If you're going that far, I'd take VVT actuator Cam off, remove the very annoying 5 sided bolts (which will confuse the f**k out of you if you didn't know about them, until you feel like moron for trying to fit various hex socket to them for 15 minutes and wondering why the f*ck nothing fits), and give it a good clean out.

I've seen used engines with it gunky and others with it spotless. It's an easy job when engines out and rockers off. Obviously be very careful with timing chain.

Id also replace the 5 sided studs with 6 sided ones!

Cheers mate, think i'll give that a miss, lol, sounds like a right faff. Engine is spotless so expecting the VVT cam to be the same. Just going to rotate it on the chain to make sure it doesnt stick. Had this issue before on the old 150k miles engine.

[JB21]

It looks like you are covered. The only thing I can think of is to make sure the knock sensor is at the right torque as it is very crucial according to Little Rocket.

I would also check to make sure the throttle plate does not have any leaks and that the IAC valve is clean.

I would remove the alternator bolts and then add some anti size for insurance incase it has to come out some day. Basically anything that is hard to get to should be addressed now.

This is a good time to inspect the wiring and all connectors. I would clean all of the connectors with electrical contact spray and then add dielectric grease on the sliding surfaces of the plastic connectors so it doesn't become frozen and very hard to remove. Do not let any of the dielectric grease touch any of the metal only plastic.

You can fix most everything else after the install but items from the front of the engine are much harder to work on.

Very good points Dev, thank you. I'll add these to my list.

[Dev]

If you're going that far, I'd take VVT actuator Cam off, remove the very annoying 5 sided bolts (which will confuse the f**k out of you if you didn't know about them, until you feel like moron for trying to fit various hex socket to them for 15 minutes and wondering why the f*ck nothing fits), and give it a good clean out.

I've seen used engines with it gunky and others with it spotless. It's an easy job when engines out and rockers off. Obviously be very careful with timing chain.

Id also replace the 5 sided studs with 6 sided ones!

Just an FYI that has come to my attention earlier this year regarding those bolts.  It appears that those bolts are a source of failure and should not be touched. Apparently some of the Celica owners have removed them and after reinstallation of the bolts they came undone in time and catastrophe ensued. It is believed that Toyota has added those bolts so they are not opened by regular sockets for this reason.

In later revisions of the VVT actuator they revised the bolts to some kind of special torx bolt. I believe there has been three or four revisions of this actuator.

I have made the mistake of removing the bolts on my actuator because I could not release the lock pin. I used a bolt out set that worked just fine. I then made sure to torque it down very hard so hopefully my car is not a ticking time bomb.

It is possible they want us to add some kind of thread locker, I don't know but I think there needs to be some caution.

[JB21]

Anyone know an easy way to dethatch the fuel line? I had to leave the feul rail and injectors connected and hanging in the engine bay with the last engine change as I couldn't get the stupid lock clip undone. Read there is a clip further down the line that's easier to remove?

[AJRFulton]

Should just unclip.

A circlip plier if you dont have a remover, but not a difficult thing to take off.

[AJRFulton]

If you're going that far, I'd take VVT actuator Cam off, remove the very annoying 5 sided bolts (which will confuse the f**k out of you if you didn't know about them, until you feel like moron for trying to fit various hex socket to them for 15 minutes and wondering why the f*ck nothing fits), and give it a good clean out.

I've seen used engines with it gunky and others with it spotless. It's an easy job when engines out and rockers off. Obviously be very careful with timing chain.

Id also replace the 5 sided studs with 6 sided ones!

Just an FYI that has come to my attention earlier this year regarding those bolts.  It appears that those bolts are a source of failure and should not be touched. Apparently some of the Celica owners have removed them and after reinstallation of the bolts they came undone in time and catastrophe ensued. It is believed that Toyota has added those bolts so they are not opened by regular sockets for this reason.

In later revisions of the VVT actuator they revised the bolts to some kind of special torx bolt. I believe there has been three or four revisions of this actuator.

I have made the mistake of removing the bolts on my actuator because I could not release the lock pin. I used a bolt out set that worked just fine. I then made sure to torque it down very hard so hopefully my car is not a ticking time bomb.

It is possible they want us to add some kind of thread locker, I don't know but I think there needs to be some caution.

MWR advised 272. They even sell a hex bolt kit, although I just put in my own 8.8 M6's.

I've broke apart half a dozen of these and half of them definitely needed cleaning.

[JB21]

Should just unclip.

A circlip plier if you dont have a remover, but not a difficult thing to take off.

I need to remove the line at the top of the engine by the throttle body. It requires this special tool which is only available in the US ☹

https://gb.jbtools.com/lisle-39210-main-fuel-line-disconnect-5-16-for-toyota-and-nissan/?utm_campaign=pr_r&utm_source=https://www.jbtools.com&utm_medium=wi_proxy&utm_content=en_US&utm_term=c

Heres a video of it in action. Skip to 2:45

[AJRFulton]

Totally different connection to mine

[Dev]

If you're going that far, I'd take VVT actuator Cam off, remove the very annoying 5 sided bolts (which will confuse the f**k out of you if you didn't know about them, until you feel like moron for trying to fit various hex socket to them for 15 minutes and wondering why the f*ck nothing fits), and give it a good clean out.

I've seen used engines with it gunky and others with it spotless. It's an easy job when engines out and rockers off. Obviously be very careful with timing chain.

Id also replace the 5 sided studs with 6 sided ones!

Just an FYI that has come to my attention earlier this year regarding those bolts.  It appears that those bolts are a source of failure and should not be touched. Apparently some of the Celica owners have removed them and after reinstallation of the bolts they came undone in time and catastrophe ensued. It is believed that Toyota has added those bolts so they are not opened by regular sockets for this reason.

In later revisions of the VVT actuator they revised the bolts to some kind of special torx bolt. I believe there has been three or four revisions of this actuator.

I have made the mistake of removing the bolts on my actuator because I could not release the lock pin. I used a bolt out set that worked just fine. I then made sure to torque it down very hard so hopefully my car is not a ticking time bomb.

It is possible they want us to add some kind of thread locker, I don't know but I think there needs to be some caution.

MWR advised 272. They even sell a hex bolt kit, although I just put in my own 8.8 M6's.

I've broke apart half a dozen of these and half of them definitely needed cleaning.

They can certainly be the source of issues with a slow to respond actuator because of varnish deposits inside.  When I opened mine it was spotless like a new piece because I always use high quality oil that has good cleaning properties.
 It's easy to tell the quality of oil that is used when you see take off the valve cover and see yellowing of the metal.

[thetyrant]

I made my own tool for releasing that fuel fitting, basically its cut and trimmed nozzle from a tube of silicone, there is some info/video of it online and it just slides in and lifts the locking mech,  can take a bit of fiddling but not terrible

Edit it add here is someone else making one - https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/fuel-rail-line-removal-tool.58825/

[Dev]

Anyone know an easy way to dethatch the fuel line? I had to leave the feul rail and injectors connected and hanging in the engine bay with the last engine change as I couldn't get the stupid lock clip undone. Read there is a clip further down the line that's easier to remove?

There is. It is the plastic clip that when you push up or down I don't remember will easily disengage.
If you look at your video I think that is it where it attaches to the fuel hose from below.
  I did this sometime in 2007 so I don't remember exactly but it was very easy to detach.