Eliana, my mostly-stock 2001 PFL

[bobo83]

The handbrake's not working on one side - I'd been meaning to service the rear calipers over the summer. Looks like I might also need Carolyn's recent guide on replacing the handbrake cables. Is it best practice to do those at the same time?

As Carolyn says, I'd start as well by checking the calipers and handbrake cables independently of each other. On my car both were bad but your luck might be different.

I've done both these jobs in the past few months and I also live in a neighbouring borough, would be happy to help.

[Gaz mr-s]

Which is good, because I had an MOT today... which it failed.
"Parking brake inoperative on one side Nearside Rear
Parking brake efficiency below requirements."

The handbrake's not working on one side - I'd been meaning to service the rear calipers over the summer. Looks like I might also need @Carolyn's recent guide on replacing the handbrake cables.

If the cables moves it can probably be restored to use.  I did so in 2019 & they are still working on the car.
The likelihood is the rubber gaiters on the rear end are in a poor state.

It's fixable, very cheap & a lot less arduous than changing cables.

[inigopete]

Well, I just about scraped an MOT pass - the mechanic wasn't happy, but the numbers on the brake test machine meant it got through. That's fine by me, I'm not going to use the car much during the winter and I'll do some proper work on it when the weather's nicer...

IMG_8185 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

It turns out the calipers are relatively new, pretty clean and the handbrake actuation on the back of them is moving smoothly. The pins were easy to remove, which I wasn't expecting! However, the n/s rubber boot is in tatters, which will have allowed a lot of crap into the cable.

IMG_8187 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

It also turns out that the previous owner, for some reason, has had the o/s handbrake cable replaced, but not the n/s one. I have no idea why you'd do this, surely while you've got the fuel tank dropped it's an easy extra step to do both? The n/s one was gritty, stiff and horrible, but I was able to free it up using Carolyn's guide, disconnecting both ends, soaking Brunox then thicker oil down the inner, and a lot of rattling back and forth.

I got everything moving and decided to make a temporary boot for the cable end out of a bicycle inner tube - it's a bodge, it ain't pretty, but it will work well enough through the few miles I'll do over winter!

IMG_8186 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

Adjusted the handbrake (it's still not pulling well on that side, because the connector behind the handbrake lever tries to balance them out), but it's good enough for now. I've got used to always doing the brake pumping thing before I park, and turning the steering wheel and leaving the car in gear if I park on a hill, as most of us probably have!

[Carolyn]

Adjusted the handbrake (it's still not pulling well on that side, because the connector behind the handbrake lever tries to balance them out), but it's good enough for now. I've got used to always doing the brake pumping thing before I park, and turning the steering wheel and leaving the car in gear if I park on a hill, as most of us probably have!

I suspect the cable has been stretched as a result of being so tight - hence the imbalance.

[Joesson]

I also have no idea as to why one would replace just one brake cable, considering the work involved. I suggest that is indicative of "if it isn't broken don't fix it" mentality. That certainly applies to the flexible hose ends that are more corroded than I would be happy with.

[Gaz mr-s]

Inner tube does not work well, it restricts the movement.  I assume you've put a 2nd cable tie on it.

I don't know whether anyone's used these yet, but they look near identical to the MGF gear cable rubbers that do work.
https://www.venhill.co.uk/rubber-boot-domino-ven207.html

You need very narrow cable ties.

[inigopete]

I also have no idea as to why one would replace just one brake cable, considering the work involved. I suggest that is indicative of "if it isn't broken don't fix it" mentality. That certainly applies to the flexible hose ends that are more corroded than I would be happy with.

Do you mean the hydraulic hose connection, going into the back of the caliper, on the right of my first and third photos? I wonder if it's time to replace those too, when I'm doing the handbrake cables, pads and discs in Spring.

[inigopete]

Inner tube does not work well, it restricts the movement.  I assume you've put a 2nd cable tie on it.

I don't know whether anyone's used these yet, but they look near identical to the MGF gear cable rubbers that do work.
https://www.venhill.co.uk/rubber-boot-domino-ven207.html

You need very narrow cable ties.

It's a fairly big inner tube, I did check it didn't restrict the movement but I'm also not confident it will last long or offer a lot of protection either! I'll replace it when I do the handbrake cables - thanks for the tip with the MGF / Venhill boot.

[Joesson]

Do you mean the hydraulic hose connection, going into the back of the caliper, on the right of my first and third photos? I wonder if it's time to replace those too, when I'm doing the handbrake cables, pads and discs in Spring.

I do indeed, I would say they have seen their best before date and need replacing.
In 2023 I replaced the two rear calipers, refurbished the two front calipers, and replaced all four hoses and, of course new brake fluid on my 2002 at <60k.

[inigopete]

"Warning: this topic has not been posted in for at least 120 days." - yes, sorry, it's been a while!

Life Happened in the meantime, quite a lot of life, not all of it fun... but I finally had a long weekend and a box full of bits to get to work on some of the things that had been on my list for a long time. Notably, the handbrake cables and a bit of a brake refresh.

IMG_1263 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

Friday morning: hoik the car up in the air, which took significantly longer than expected; prop up on axle stands and long planks so I have enough space under it to drop out the fuel tank. Move the planks and axle stands so I could access the  bits I needed to, realise the car is actually a little rear-heavy, but I'm on a sloping drive.

This video was pretty useful: https://youtu.be/guFHV9Aphto - if a little long-winded (and I suspect it's a FL / LHD car, I didn't do anything with the "evap" (?) unit, which I'm not sure I could have easily accessed anyway). Remove luggage doors, bins, centre console, handbrake cables; all the screws on the fuel pump, fuel filler pipe, faff about with that weird push-fit clip on the fuel line... and then remember the pipe that goes into the middle top of the fuel tank. Handy to know I needed to loosen the braces down the middle of the car and remove the bolts holding the metal pipes that run either side of the fuel tank. (I think they're coolant?)

IMG_1264 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

Quite a lot of wiggling around, grunting, a bit of swearing, dropping rusty crap on my face and in my eyes... and eventually the fuel tank was lowered to the ground. I'd run the car until about 15 miles after the fuel light came on, but I was still surprised how much fuel was left in the tank sloshing around.

IMG_1265 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

...the wine bottle and jug might look like a coping strategy, but actually it was pretty handy having a few screw-top wine bottles in the recycling bin to drain the petrol from the tank into and store for a couple of days. Six of them, in the end. Covered over the big hole in the top of the tank, brushed as much dirt and dust off everything underneath the car, sprayed Brunox on all the things I thought I might need to move tomorrow, and stored everything away for the night.

[inigopete]

Saturday morning. Three out of four hose connectors had loosened, relatively easily. The fourth did not. The nut on the metal pipe (the one that, at least at the moment, I don't have a spare for) was rounding out, and the 17mm flat on the stock hose was twisting in the holder. Time, Brunox and two mole grips eventually got it moving.

IMG_1267 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

...and we're making progress! I'd ordered new Goodridge braided brake lines, new Pagid discs and pads (I drive this car on the road and I wash it relatively regularly, I don't need ultimate performance, just decent value) and cracked on with removing and wire-brushing the calipers, cleaning the seals and spraying them with silicone lubricant, resetting the pistons* and generally trying to make everything work smoothly again.

* I tried the fine-nosed pliers twisting trick but it really didn't work well. This tool, £14 from Screwfix, did exactly the job needed: https://www.screwfix.com/p/hilka-pro-craft-brake-caliper-rewind-tool/4119r - a reminder that the notches in the piston need to end up aligned "north-south", in line with the slot in the opposite fingers on the caliper, so they match the pin on the brake pad.

IMG_1268 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

...bit of a delay because I had to go and buy the right tool, but 3/4 corners of the car are looking good with new discs, pads and brake hoses to replace the stock ones. Remembering anti-seize on all the bolts and copper grease on the backs of the pads to keep things easier in the future. Just the awkward last front nearside corner that's not playing ball and threatening to round out... The weather got a LOT worse, I had a date that night, and I called it a day.

[inigopete]

Sunday. Yuck, this weather's pretty horrible, but I'll hide underneath the car, right?

Wrong. Connecting the 3/4 of the car that are playing ball is good, but that front n/s corner is not looking good, and I don't have high hopes for the bleed nipple either, despite copious applications of Brunox.

Oh well, crack on with the handbrake cables...

For those reading this and looking for a reference, I used Pagid handbrake cables from MR2-Ben (because that was all that was in stock when I looked). I spent at least 15 minutes per cable with some bicycle winter wet lube (because that's what I know, and it's good weather-resistant inert oil), drip-feeding it between the inner and outer and pulling and twisting the cable to ensure it had worked its way down and the cable felt smooth. This whole job (replacing the handbrake cables) was enough of a ball-ache that I didn't want to repeat it any time soon!

For future reference: mine is a 2001 PFL car. The handbrake cables are different lengths (I don't think the previous owner's mechanic realised this!) The right-hand handbrake cable is 1585mm, Pagid part no. 84455 or 108700338. The left-hand handbrake cable is 1575mm, Pagid part no. 84590 or 10882088. In this shot, the RH cable has the tape on it:

IMG_1281 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

By FAR the biggest frustration in fitting the new handbrake cables was getting those rubber grommets inserted into the body of the car properly. If they're not fitted, moisture may get into the car. And even when they are fitted, if you jiggle the cable around (like when you're moving the clamp points oon it to bolt to the car), they come un-stuck from the car!

IMG_1282 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

(those rubber things at the top of the photo)

Also, while the fuel tank was out, time to replace the fuel filter, because I'd ordered a spare one. Pretty much everything clips in place, so all you need is a flat-bladed screwdriver and a little bit of patience. The fuel gauge, pump and everything else, just slides and carefully un-clips from place...

IMG_1283 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

IMG_1284 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

IMG_1285 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

...then it's time to put the fuel tank back in place. And pretty much the biggest PITA is reconnecting this thing: the hose that goes into the top of the tank. A 10mm socket Jubilee Clip clamp, done pretty much blind with the tank resting on a jack, but very satisfying to feel it re-connect:

IMG_1286 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

More cold weather, it was starting to get dark, so I sprayed Brunox on all the bleed nipples, packed up and went inside.

[inigopete]

Monday, the day I'd allowed for contingency, just in case. A lovely sunny morning, bright and fresh. Three of the bleed nipples moved relatively easily... and the fourth sheared off, just as easily.

Balls.

IMG_1288 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

Made a cup of coffee, looked on here, had a bit of a think. I spent some time trying to drill out the bleed nipple, carefully using a 6mm drill bit with tape round it to ensure I was drilling only to the right depth, and tapping it with a 7x1mm tap (which I also spent some time modifying with an angle grinder so the taper was shorter). But the caliper metal felt almost crumbly and the threads didn't tap well - in short, despite my best efforts I made a mess of it and ruined the caliper.

The rear calipers had already been replaced or refurbished at some point in the car's relatively recent history, before I bought her, but the fronts were rusty and stiff, so replacing them both was looking like a sensible option. A bit more research on here (thanks @Petrus, @JB21, @Ardent et al for this thread: https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=74205.0 ) and I decided to bite the bullet and go for Prius calipers. I'm on a budget so called round some breakers yards, and then spent a couple of hours travelling and nervously watching a yard mechanic climb up a pile of teetering cars and sift through parts... but I got a pair, in decent condition.

IMG_1292 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

That's the Prius caliper on the left, the stock MR2 caliper on the right. The 2004-2009 Prius Mk2 calipers are a direct fit (mine came from a 2005/6) and they use the same pads. The caliper is slightly bigger (it's aluminium instead of the original steel) but it fits with plenty of space inside the stock PFL 15" front alloy wheel. It's actually a nice easy swap. It was a bit of a leap of faith but others have done the research and experimentation before me so I chose to entrust my money and my safety to a bunch of people on the Internet who I've never met...

IMG_1293 by Pete Owen, on Flickr

Then it was time to bleed the brakes, which I'd never actually done before in this car. Nice and straightforward job with a Goodridge speed bleed nipple and a fresh bottle of Comma DOT4. Brown cloudy fluid came out, clear green fluid went in, one corner at a time.

Might as well change the oil and filter while the car's so high off the ground and easy to get to. I'd added about 200ml of Seafoam High Mileage to the oil about 500 miles earlier, so I don't think it was just my imagination that the old oil seemed a bit darker and sludgier as it came out. Always satisfying to put new clean fluids in where grubby stuff has come out!

Double-check everything I should have tightened. Clean discs with IPA. Wheels on, nappies back on, lower car to ground, torque wheel nuts and cautiously test drive. And it feels great! All working well, brake pedal response feels sharp, the brakes improved as the pads and discs bedded in over the first few hard-brakes (on a quiet back road). The handbrake feels smooth and effective, for the first time in my ownership of this car, and engages fully at six clicks.

I then drove the car 130 miles to Southwold! And it felt great. It was mostly motorway / A-road driving so I can't say I noticed any difference in the front end feel, but the brakes are overall more responsive, less spongy and seem _slightly_ more effective at the start of the pedal movement. But I'll wait for drier, sunnier days and twistier quiet roads to have more of a play and report back.