how much coolant?

[Jared]

Just a quick question I have googled the amount of coolant in our cars and it states 10.4L is this correct?
Reason I ask is I changed my rad a few weeks ago, could not see any leaks when adding coolant fluid so was happy with result.
Thing is I couldn't get anywhere near 10L in the car so just thought there was some left in the system but did need to top up a few days later now after a few weeks the level has dropped again.
No signs of water in the oil at all but just thinking was the coolant taking its time to settle and more needs to go in.   

[jvanzyl]

Think it's almost like 12L.
You most likely have an air pocket. Do you get hot air from the fans? If you do then you're likely fine.

[Jared]

Think it's almost like 12L.
You most likely have an air pocket. Do you get hot air from the fans? If you do then you're likely fine.

I was but as the coolant dropped the hot air wasn't coming through, I think I got about 6 to 7L so it looks like I need a fair bit more but the engine temp hasn't gone over half way on the gauge since the refill   

[Ardent]

10.4 litres.

@Jared if you have an obd dongle, try using that and monitor the temp.
The actual temp can fluctuate quite a bit but the needle will sit solid at the 3
O'clock position.

[Jared]

10.4 litres.

@Jared if you have an obd dongle, try using that and monitor the temp.
The actual temp can fluctuate quite a bit but the needle will sit solid at the 3
O'clock position.

Don't have an odb but the temp does sit at 3 o clock on the car needle.
I know when the level drops as the engine gets to standing temp much quicker than when the fluid level is topped up.

[Carolyn]

The system needs bleeding properly.

[Jared]

Just put some more in and heater working now, dud not take much maybe 1L ish.
Would be handy if the temp gauge had degrees on it not just C and H

[Ardent]

If you are an android user the obd dongles are fairly cheap. Worth getting one and torque pro for the novelty factor alone.

[Whisperhead]

Been having a similar issue myself recently. I imagine I have an air lock too, so I'm gonna try to bleed the system again. PITA to get right so far.

[Carolyn]

I raise the rear of the car and leave the cap off the expansion tank.  Then I bleed at the bulkhead and the radiator using clear plastic tubes hung up so I can see them fill - and see the bubbles.

[Pete McCue]

It is a right PITA to get all the air out and even a tiny amount can bugger up the system. I had all the tubes up, arse up, front up everything. I reckon I'd bled out at least half a litre of waterless coolant before I'd got all the air out. Not looking forward to ever doing it again!

[Joesson]

My working life had much to do with (oil) hydraulic lifting systems using single stage and two stage hydraulic cylinders up to around 200mm diameter.
During the installation of such systems I would sometimes be asked why the system was not levelling consistently. Have you bled the system I would ask. Oh yes was the reply. How did you do that I would ask. With a piece of rag ( as with a domestic radiator)) was the reply. Take a bucket and do it again was my response.
Problem solved.
When filling such a system the oil should be poured slowly into the tank, not with all speed as was typically the case, to avoid/ reduce the amount of entrained air. The system could best be left for a while to allow air to release under normal atmospheric pressure on the surface of the tank of oil.
Similar conditions likely apply to our smaller, coolant filled systems. Air can be escape from/ be bled from the expansion tank, the cylinder block, the pipes under the body towards the front of the car, the radiator bleed valve and the cap.
A systematic approach is necessary.
I found that determining the system was empty and knowing exactly how much it held, by measuring what came out, and similarly measuring what went in I knew when the system was air locked.
A sloping driveway , nose down and rear end elevated also helped.