Hi all- saw an interesting video today by 3pot where he reviewed the "normal/TTE route of diverting the coolant house next to the engine block, and suggested that this would result in coolant only flowing past turbo when the heater was activated?

The method he opts for is to actually go via the two coolant ports on the throttle body.

I'm ok with current TTE method IF it doesn't in fact only work with the heater activated.. if threepot is right then I'll be changing! As much as it pains me to work with coolant again...

Only one tip but the bracket that joints both pipes together on the pattern pipes, may prevent you securing them at the unions.

I tried multiple methods and in the end had to completely slacken the bracket off, the positioning was just different enough to Toyota's stock ones, to make it impossible. The pipes are held securely/supported with a similar bracket a few inches away anyway.

*Cadwell Update*

So after a little bit of last minute dashing about was all set for the shakedown, throughout the day the weather had been nice but with on and off showers so was keeping my fingers crossed for a dry one.

I love a wet track day but with it been the first outing in a while I suspected there may be a few bits we need to sort/fettle with and its nicer lying in the sun that in a puddle!

Lucky for me it was nice and dry all night.

So how was the car? Was great fun! Short ratio's is perfect for Cadwell popping into 6th on both straights. Was the first time using Dunlop Direzza's and they felt really grippy albeit were catching on one side slightly with the lack of camber so had to raise it up after the sighting laps.

The alignment was obviously not ideal but the tyres helped hide this. Brakes felt good for most of the evening but just started to tail off towards the end of the sessions so I'm thinking it probably wants some fresh fluid before Blyton.

One area for improvement is the shifter, 3/4/5/6 are good but 1/2 are horrific to get into, naturally was only using 2nd on the hairpin however quite often missing 2nd and ending in 4th and bogging. Just feels so far to the left away from the other gears so need to find a solution to this.

The other area is me! Can tell its been a while and need to get some seat time and confidence back. The wing has definitely helped with the faster sections feeling more assured around Charlies 1/2 and Chris Curve which is good, am sure there is some time to un-lock there now.

Wasn't too busy on the evening but was a few nice things about, had some good little battles with some BMW M3's 440i's etc, interesting to see the different area's of the track that suit the different cars. MR2 coming into its own on the tighter stuff and the BMW's stretching away on the faster stuff. Was impressed with the little MR2's straight line speed in comparison too which is promising.

Few bits to sort before Blyton but on the whole a really successful shakedown and super excited for the rest of the year in the car.

Anyway enough waffle time for some pictures, curtesy of Rob Baxter so there's some good'uns!

Did have the go pro in for one session so will upload that when I get some time too.

Dan

I would take every wheel off and check the sensors are connected ok. I had the warning come on and it turned out to be a sensor was unplugged.

I seem to remember that there is a way to identify the problem by counting flashes of something but cant remember the details!

Quote from: LozB on Yesterday at 19:13Tried this, and you get a little puff of black smoke when you really boot it. Not much, and black rather than grey. Any thoughts?

Courtesy of @Carolyn who offered this snippet some time ago:

Black smoke, fuel.
Blue smoke, oil.
White smoke, coolant
Pink smoke, too many mushrooms.

You need to check alternator voltage at the battery.  On the basic info, it's not charging it.  However, if the battery voltage pre-jump start was really low, the alternator may not charge it.  I'd never experienced this, but did just recently.  If that's the case you need to parallel the battery with another so that a smart charger will be triggered.

I don't think the car has a brake pad warning.  The tang on the pads is a 'scraper' to give an audible warning.  I fear you have a sensor issue.  Someone will confirm, - I believe you'll need Toyota's Techstream to get diagnostic of it.

Quote from: LozB on Yesterday at 19:13Tried this, and you get a little puff of black smoke when you really boot it. Not much, and black rather than grey. Any thoughts?

Black is usually fuel, maybe running a little rich?  See what others say.  Sounds ok oil/bore wise.

@LozB

Iirc there is a "contact" on the brake pads that connects with whatever to signal pad wear at end of life.
Just maybe, for some reason, that is in permanent contact and not helping your situation.

Quote from: LozB on Yesterday at 19:31We are replacing all the power steering pipes tomorrow as old ones are leaking and power steering no longer works. Anything to watch out for?

We bought some Comma PSF from Halfords (as recommended by sales staff) but have now ordered some Ravenol E-PSF following a bit more detail research. Close shave that was.

I used Ravenol a few years ago and no problems to date.
When I did this I first flushed the OE pipes and cleaned the power steering pump internals.
PS
You will likely find that the PS pump support bracket is very corroded on the underside, I had repaired the OE bracket sometime before cleaning the pump and changing the oil.

PPS
These may help: Fluid change/ pump clean

https://youtu.be/ElmEb6PKZ50

https://www.spyderchat.com/threads/ps-light-power-steering-problems-try-this.50843/page-2

We are replacing all the power steering pipes tomorrow as old ones are leaking and power steering no longer works. Anything to watch out for?

We bought some Comma PSF from Halfords (as recommended by sales staff) but have now ordered some Ravenol E-PSF following a bit more detail research. Close shave that was.