Just bought MR2 - now with pictures attached.

[vatovey]

Evening all,

Bought an MR2 Roadster this evening, W reg with hard top, in pristine condition, got one or two niggly little problems which I was hoping you guys/girls could advise me on.

1) Engine management light comes and stays on - the car drives/sounds perfect, no spluttering/hesitation, car was recently sold through a car auction and current owner seems to think they auction place 'boosted' the car with their portable battery machines... would this have caused it ?

2) Changing gears is stiff, once its in gear its fine, sounds perfect - no crunching etc.., gear linkages possibly ??

3) Am getting a rattle by the drivers side front when the hard top in on - am assuming something is simply loose and needs tightening ?

Any and all advice appreciated.

Picking the car up on Saturday/Sunday.

Many Thanks, Vaughn.

[Anonymous]

You need to get the code read, add your location and check the thread for members who have code readers, there will be someone near you.
Oh and welcome.

[spit]

Hi Vaughn welcome to the ROC  s8) s8)  

Jump-starting will not bring on your CEL. You really need to identify what's causing it before you're happy to drive it away - even if it seems to be running sweetly.

If its a UK car, easy to read. If its a J-Spec, you'll struggle, but if you're handy with a multimeter there are some tests you can do. Let us know if you need help in that department.

Have a look at the sticky threads in this and other forums for some handy info - it'll prompt you into some easy checks like fluids and tyres and the dreaded precats etc.

Stiff gearchange could be internal. Change of fluid to Redline MT90 may help but obviously won't 'fix' mechanical wear. Externally, clutch bleed and piston clean-up could also help. You can also check the rear gearchange linkage for floppy bushings.

Hardtop/softop clips are adjustable (flip up plastic locking cover and twiddle the inch-long adjuster nut) so you can have a play with them. I've seen mounts work loose but only if they've been previously removed - and that in itself takes some doing  s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

[vatovey]

Morning all,

Profile and avatar uploaded   s:D s:D  

Fortunately, I do dabble with electronics/electrical stuff, and I do currently have a OBDII code reader - hopefully someone can tell me if its compatible with the MR2, I have a Uiftech U581, the car is uk model.

If anyone can let me know what multimeter tests can be performed, that would be fantastic, and if anyone is around in the area who is able to help diagnose then that would be great also.

Is it difficult to change the gearbox oil on MR2's ?, I hope the gearbox problem is nothing serious, the car has barely done 50k miles.

I'll start reading the sticky's now, am sure there'll be tons of useful info in them.

From what you've said, you have confirmed my thoughts about the hard top, I think this will be the least of my worries.

Again, many thanks.

[spit]

If you're UK, the 581 should work just fine..... so unless you're looking for adventure you won't need the multimeter tricks.

Changing box oil is a breeze. There's a photo lurking here somewhere pointing to the drain and fill holes. If you're able to find that then you're easily able to do the job  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:   And while you're underneath filling you'll see the clutch pushrod and bleed nipple attached to the engine mount.

PS - just thought that you'll need to remove plastic nappies if you're UK-spec. Get some good easing oil onto the bolts - they're like butter. For the ones in the wheel arches, get some moles on the bracket that they attach to and hold them firm before trying to loosen - otherwise you'll just twist the bracket and shear the head off the bolt.

[SimonC_Here]

Morning all,

Profile and avatar uploaded   s:D s:D  

Fortunately, I do dabble with electronics/electrical stuff, and I do currently have a OBDII code reader - hopefully someone can tell me if its compatible with the MR2, I have a Uiftech U581, the car is uk model.

Should just be plug in and go.

If anyone can let me know what multimeter tests can be performed, that would be fantastic, and if anyone is around in the area who is able to help diagnose then that would be great also.

Only needed if you ODBII doesn't read. A problem with the MRS (imports)

Is it difficult to change the gearbox oil on MR2's ?, I hope the gearbox problem is nothing serious, the car has barely done 50k miles.

Fiddly but not too difficult. Someone a bit more mechanical will be along I'm sure.

I'll start reading the sticky's now, am sure there'll be tons of useful info in them.

Lot's and lots and lots! There is also the reference and HowTo sections as well.

Welcome!

[vatovey]

as I'm not really an expert in the field of fault codes, if I do a code scan prior to purchasing the car, are there any codes which are known to be extremely bad ?, ie: to the extent that the car is not worth buying ?

[SimonC_Here]

Codes are here:  l viewtopic.php?f=46&t=12480 l

It's probably going to be something like P0135, P0141, P0155.
All relating to O2 sensor problems. £200 for Toyota, ~£80 if you DIY.

[vatovey]

excellent, i just printed out a copy of the codes now.

as you say, hopefully it will be something trivial and easily fixed.

[roger]

Welcome to the Club.

It seems I'm a bit late to help with your questions, but a couple of points to add....

Unless you are totally au fait with the code descriptions PLEASE come back for further advice before buying. There are some that are deadly!

Secondly, if you've been hanging around you may have seen the recent threads about wheel / tyre sizes. I assume yours will have 15" wheels all round, just make sure tyres are correct size (ie bigger at rear) & same make / model.  If not, factor in the price of changing them.

See you around  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[vatovey]

Hi Roger,

I will check, but am 99% sure the wheels are standard, and I happy to report are in virtually pristine condition, but I will check nonetheless.

Fortunately, the car comes with a 13 month warranty package from a third party company, so any really serious problems I will be able to claim and get it all fixed for hardly anything (excess is £50), but I'd rather not claim if unless I have to.

Cheers, Vaughn.

[roger]

Hi Roger,

I will check, but am 99% sure the wheels are standard, and I happy to report are in virtually pristine condition, but I will check nonetheless.

Fortunately, the car comes with a 13 month warranty package from a third party company, so any really serious problems I will be able to claim and get it all fixed for hardly anything (excess is £50), but I'd rather not claim if unless I have to.

Cheers, Vaughn.

Just make sure tyres are right though - many reports are received that garages / tyre places do not understand the reason for different sizes front - rear, and get the customer to accept the same all round because they can't supply the correct ones.

Not saying the previous owners have done that, but always worth a check - before you end up in a hedge.

Warranties are a nice back-stop - but better to find out if a new engine is needed before you buy, rather than afterwards.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:

[vatovey]

cool, will def check the tyres, thanks for the good info there, out of interest, what size wheels/tyres should be on the front/back on a mr2 mk3 ?

yes, the warranty is very nice, its a top of the range jobby which even covers the cats, but as you say - I'm trying to find out possible causes of the niggly problems prior to buying it to see whether i will even need to make a big claim.

[roger]

http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=46&p=303564#p303564

[vatovey]

fantastic, thanks Roger.

[vatovey]

ok - got the MR2 earlier this evening.

The rattling has all but been fixed, the chromed metal brackets on the car itself were loose...

Gearbox - I think I'll get used to it.

CEL diagnostic revealed 4 codes, P0141, P0171 and 2x P0174 - is this telling me the o2 sensor is kerput, or does it simply need cleaning ?

If it is the o2 sensor(s) which need replacing, would THESE do the job ??

Once replacement parts have been fitted, whats the cheapest/easiest course of action to clear the fault codes ?

Cheers, Vaughn.

[spit]

P0141: Its your 3rd O2 sensor that has gone. Specifically the heater circuit. Not detrimental to the running of the car.

I'm willing to bet that the EBay sensor you link to will fit (physically!) but it won't solve the 0141. However, if you're on a budget, a resistor across the black wires will. I have some kicking about somewhere if you're handy with a soldering iron and want to PM me an address (in exchange for a few quid into Club funds).

The 171 and 174s will need more investigation. Several possibilities to "running lean" codes. The easy-investigate-and-fix-or-rule-out ones are:

- Dirty/faulty MAF (likely to be under-reading and therefore under-fuelling).
- Physical leak in vacuum hoses or post-MAF pipework (letting in unmetered air and therefore under-fuelling).

If the car is otherwise running fine and holding onto all of its essentials, these are a good place to start. MAF can be cleaned with carb cleaner to se if it starts reading sensibly again, or A-B tested by swapping out with a friendly local ROC member if a clean doesn't do the trick. Test by holding a steady speed on the motorway and see if the light returns after a code reset.

[vatovey]

if/when I clean the MAF and hoses - how do I clear the existing fault codes from the engine management controller ?

[muffdan]

disconnect the battery for 10 minutes

Jason

[vatovey]

cheers Jason...

i've just run another diagnostic to make sure the codes were correct.

Error code #1 = P0171 (Generic system to lean - Bank 1)
Error code #2 = P0174 (Generic system to lean - Bank 2)
Error code #3 = P0141 (o2 heater circuit malfunction - Bank 1, Sensor 2)

After running the diagnostic just now, I noticed on my code reader there is an option to 'Clear codes' - so I selected it, and now all the fault codes have gone, and the CEL is now off... but am sure it'll come back on soon enough until I replace/fix the problem.

[vatovey]

yesterday I cleared the fault codes from the ECU, at the same time I removed the MAF and gave it a quick clean.

A few hours later the CEL came back on, this evening I did another diagnostic, and it was only relating to the o2 heater circuit malfuction code (P0141), no faults have so far been logged about the system running lean - am touching wood that cleaning the MAF has cured that fault.

Prior to cleaning the MAF, my code scanning box gave me a reading of 4.14 to 4.23 gm/sec for the MAF, after cleaning its now reading 2.3 gm/sec --> does this sounds about right, or are these figures variable ?

During today, I washed and polished the car and softop/hardtop, below are some pics, am very happy with the results.

Pic 1 - prior to cleaning the softop


Pic 2 - after cleaning the softop with autoglym vinyl and rubber cleaner


Pic 3 - Front nearside view


Pic 4 - Front offside view


Pic 5 - Rear offside view


Pic 6 - Front nearside view

[dipper84]

Vaughn,

what did you use on your roof? cant have your hood looking nicer than mine when living in the next village  s:D s:D  lol
any news on your P0141? im having the same issue and hope to sort ot out tonight with a new sensor. i think i may have damaged mine when removing my precats.....

Aylward

[onion86]

Vaughn,

what did you use on your roof? cant have your hood looking nicer than mine when living in the next village  s:D s:D  lol

Pic 2 - after cleaning the softop with autoglym vinyl and rubber cleaner

I wonder  s:P s:P

[philster_d]

the only MR2 in village!  lol

[dipper84]

ok ok i didnt see that between the pictures!!