2001 vs 2005 Spyder (comparison)

Started by RaymondFast, February 4, 2020, 17:23

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RaymondFast

Sadly, someone tried to make a left hand turn through my 2005 Spyder a few weeks ago. The car is totaled. I've accepted a reasonable offer from the other driver's insurance company and will be picking up a check today. I so enjoyed owning and driving the car that I'd like to replace it with another MR2 Spyder. I've found a 2001 model that I'm very interested in, so here is what I want to know:

What should I expect when transitioning from the 2005 to the 2001 Spyder? What are the functional differences between them? I maintain my own vehicles, so I'm very interested in what will be different when working on the car. I have a BGB for the '05; will I need to buy a 2001 edition right away?

Thanks!

Davred

2001 is pre facelift, so unless engine rebuilt with new pistons or rings, may be burning lots of oil. Keep a close eye on it.
It also had a lot less chassis bracing.
You will need full centre brace and facelift front brace, or similar from Carolyn, or other suppliers to get closer to the feel of the 2005.
Depending on mileage, may now need new suspension struts and springs.
Check the rear subframe is not holed or heavily corroded.
Check whether Pre-cats are out, if not remove, or change manifold.
It may have all been done of course.
W. Red. Black leather. Facelift wheels.Toyo T1R. Pre-cats removed. Matts TTE style chassis brace. 2003 facelift front brace, FK lowering springs, Dev keyhole covers, tte rear grille. Tanabe G-Power Medalion exhaust, JSpec nose badge, mongo's, front strut brace. Matt perf engine rebuild May 2014.

Joesson




@RaymondFast Have a look at the thread, link below, that is in "General" just a few threads before yours. Many details and opinions that may help you.


https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=68544.0

Davred

To clarify on the mid chassis brace, the oem was the same on both, but you really notice the improvement with a full brace.
The wheels on the pfl were all 15" whereas the post facelift had 15 front and 16" rear. I changed mine to facelift and felt it was more planted with the 16 rears, plus wider tyres.
The tail lights were also improved on the facelift.
The 2001 will have a 5 speed gearbox which became 6 on facelift, although the 6th is only an overdrive. Not needed unless you're on motorways a lot.
W. Red. Black leather. Facelift wheels.Toyo T1R. Pre-cats removed. Matts TTE style chassis brace. 2003 facelift front brace, FK lowering springs, Dev keyhole covers, tte rear grille. Tanabe G-Power Medalion exhaust, JSpec nose badge, mongo's, front strut brace. Matt perf engine rebuild May 2014.

Carolyn

Having had direct workshop experience of several examples of both models:

The number one thing you'll immediately notice is the PFL has five gears and the FL has a sixth, which is really an overdrive for higher speed cruising.  There is not that much difference in bracing, but the FL has a more robust underbrace at the front, making for a little less scuttle-shake.

Some people prefer the slightly more flexible PFL car, and others reckon the FL is the only way to go.

I would say that oil burning problems definitely happen to both.  Mostly down to poor maintenance.

Subframes can be just as bad, or good, on either.  I've seen low mileage cars of both types with all the problems, and high mileage ones that were cherry!

In other words, it's all down to the condition of the particular car.  I personally prefer the simpler styling of the PFL, but that's a very subjective call on my part.

In terms of spannering and maintenance, there's bu**er all difference between them.
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

Davred

W. Red. Black leather. Facelift wheels.Toyo T1R. Pre-cats removed. Matts TTE style chassis brace. 2003 facelift front brace, FK lowering springs, Dev keyhole covers, tte rear grille. Tanabe G-Power Medalion exhaust, JSpec nose badge, mongo's, front strut brace. Matt perf engine rebuild May 2014.

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