Hi Jez, hope you got the fault fixed.
Filters - this is interesting........ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnKcTslUwWw

Their conclusion is Hengst.  I got the brand at a good price on ebay for a V6, but if you want Hengst for the 1zz Autodoc are cheaper than on ebay.  https://www.autodoc.co.uk/hengst-filter/241232   double-check compatibility though.
Filters + plugs from them maybe.

Sump.....unless it's about to seep, paint it. I painted mine with Hammerite. It's a lot easier to paint than change it....

Plugs.... pure copper are the most efficient.  Iridium are aimed at high-mileage, less changes. There've been several debates on here.....    

@Double Zero
Unless you have air con there is only one belt.When I changed mine I used  a Gates belt. (As recommended by my daily Main Dealer in preference to OE) and elsewhere .
Filters oil, there has been much written on line and a Member on Spyderchat bought several manufactures and cut them open with interesting results. Worth looking for and at. In short the extremely expensive specialist items are not worth the £, OE ,  a specialist filter manufacturer are all fine.
Air filters I suggest OE or a specialist (paper) filter. Unless of course you want induction noise!
As to where to buy them, once you have chosen what you prefer , on line will give you various suppliers at various prices.
As for oil, much written about that but that does depend on your usage . Opie oils will give you advice and can supply oil and filters.
More Important is to drain and change the oil and filters on a regular basis.
Don't forget the oil sump plug gasket/ washer, it often sticks to the sump, there is no ridge on the edge of the drain hole, that is a stuck on washer. Be sure to remove it and replace, expensive from Mr T best bought in multiples on line.

Morning all,

I need to service the MR2 and change the belts and the Sump needs looking at before I change the oil a couple of other jobs.

Are any of the parts suppliers better than another.

I've used GT4 Play in the past, is it worth using main dealer parts and if so do we get a discount for being club members or are the motor facyors as good as any.

I'm fully aware I drive the MR2 using much more of the rev range than any car I've had in the past so I want to make sure I'm not messing anything up using cheaper filters.

Is it worth running iridium plugs It's a virtually standard build with precats removed.

Thanks

Mohammed Usman is in Rochdale. You should be able to find him in one of the UK MR2 Mk3 groups on Facebook

If it's the original cat, it could well be at its sell-by date.

Quote from: MR22003 on June 16, 2026, 13:36Ideally in Southeast or Northeast (Yorkshire) England areas. Thank you!

Not sure how far South East you want to go, but if Bexhill is in range, then Patrick Chambers has always been my go-to...

pretty sure mine is a stock spec cat

I replaced the lower sensor, let's see how it goes...

The other week I got round to treating the car to a new set of coilovers, replacing the unknown shock absorbers and unknown (and quite rusty) lowering springs.

I had originally set out to buy MeisterR ZetaSports, but having been out of stock with the manufacturer since I started looking in March and failing to find a retailer that had them in stock I figured that maybe I needed to look elsewhere. The nail in the coffin was the lack of communication from MeisterR. No one answers the phone, no one returns your messages and no one replies to emails. I figured this was not a company I could rely on should I need support in the future...

I looked around and settled on a set of Tein Mono Sport coilovers with a spring rate of 4kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear. They are a bit dearer than the coilovers I had originally set out to buy but there are a few retailers out there with some reasonable offers if you shop around. Plus they do look amazing 🤩

I had the rear drop links replaced at the same time (standard Mr T ones) as I plan to replace the rear ARB at some point in the future and didn't want my old cruddy drop links bolted to my nice new green coilovers 

I've only had them for a week or two and I've certainly not put them to the test properly yet so this is not a proper review, just my initial first impressions from running around town and one trip from Chester down to Stoke.

Firstly, the steering feels way sharper compared to my old suspension. Such a huge difference!

Secondly, out of the box they are set to the firmest setting. I drove it like this for a few days and it wasn't anywhere near as uncomfortable as I thought it might be. It was actually surprisingly manageable. It definitely felt really planted and gave great confidence in cornering. A huge improvement on what I had.

I then switched to full soft setting. This was definitely really comfortable and the dashboard rattle really reduced. You could 100% use this setting as a daily driver should you want that. Super comfortable that's for sure.

I've currently got it on the mid setting, 8 clicks from soft (there are 16 clicks on these by the way). Predictably the ride is a bit firmer and there is slightly more shake from the dash, but again very manageable as a daily with a slightly more 'aggressive' feel. Going forward I will either leave it here, or go a few clicks firmer.

Speaking of clicks, one thing I don't like is at the hardest setting you can feel there are no more turns clockwise. However going softer (anticlockwise) you can overshoot the 16 clicks to the softest setting and keep clicking which can damage them apparently. So counting the clicks is definitely key.

The real test will be when I get it back at Oulton Park, but that won't be until August and I'll write more about them then.  To sum up, the first impressions are really good and I'm surprised how useable they are as a daily driver.

I've also bought a front Whiteline ARB and I need to fit that at some point in the near future.

The way it is passed the CO (monoxides) and HC's is very very good! They are always the hard bits, so the cat is catalysing.

Check for leaks, I don't want to hear even the slightest of exhaust leakage with your hand over that tail pipe, and make sure it holds and recovers lambda well with you ecumaster gear.

Limit the ignition timing idle control, and dial the PWM idle control in to make it idle properly. Tidy up all the cells in the areas where the MOT tester revs it up and down, there is barely any load. Play with the throttle and watch which cells it dances around. Make sure every single cell is tuned to lambda perfectly. You want to see that lambda graph be pretty damn stable though all the transients.

You've failed with a marginally lean lambda on the first test.
And the last test its failed on monoxides - which are created from overly lean combustion.

They are held in place by small push-in 'clips' every few inches.

With the right small tool, they can be gently prized out.