Just a thought - is it a stock or dual exit exhaust?

Check that the exhaust hasn't been moved and pushed against anything as I know the right hand side of mine (TTE) sits pretty close to the aircon pump and if that moves at all, I get weird vibrations at certain revs.   

I've been trawling the threads (e.g. https://www.mr2roc.org/index.php?topic=67682.75) to see if there is something the same as my scenario, but nothing is jumping out

My car had a brand new cat fitted about 4 months ago and has started to flash up the EML.

The error code it is returning is P0420 "Bank 1".

If I reset it using Torque Pro, it is fine for a week or two (multiple 3-5 mile trips almost every day).

The cat was fitted by Pat Chambers, so I am assuming that installation isn't a problem.

O2 sensors are old, so it's a fair guess that need replacing.

Questions:

1) is there anything I should be checking as per the thread above before replacing sensors?

(that thread seems to be all about a failing cat, but if mine is brand new, I'm not sure if I'll get any useful info from a failing sensor?)

2) With that error is it just the lower one or do I need to do both the manifold sensors too?

3) Denso part numbers?

Googling around I think they are these two: Denso 234-4624 and 234-4603

Hoping to get away with just the lower one at this stage **fingers crossed**

Note I've got the TTE exhaust and ToyoSport manifold, but I've had these two combined without issue for most of the last ~10 years!

We went from Tein to H&R, and added a thicker front spring insulator.  The car is now almost exactly 1" (25 mm) lower than stock. The Tein were just too low.

Sounds like I need to go and try it again. I rarely use the horn in any car and a few days ago I went to use it pressed on the toyota badge and nothing. Ill try it again later today and report back how it does or does not work

Quote from: Ardent on May 10, 2026, 15:54Best to follow the correct process to avoid inadvertent deployment of the air bag.

When I changed the steering wheel on my Smart, I disconnected the battery for several hours beforehand.

Quote from: Superluminal on May 10, 2026, 10:31@househead Off topic, but I'd be really interested to hear your back to back experiences of Tein Vs Eibach springs. I'm on Teins and an extra 5mm of clearance would make a massive difference to me.

Yea, that extra clearance but still being lowered from stock is what made me switch springs from the Teins that the car came with. Had a few issues grounding out and even had to replace one of the front support bars after it took a good bashing.

Will update here once I get a chance to test it out a bit.

It's possible it pivots at the centre and is probably by design due to the airbag being there. Mine does the same.

Final part of the puzzle is the charge cooler kit. This places the charge cooler in the engine bay where the battery was. First up was fitting the mounting bracket which bolts to the engine mount using the existing mounts for the battery tray. Once this was in place the cooler itself could be fitted along with the new map sensor housing and connecting hoses. I'm planning on running a gauge that measures the intake air temperature of both the inlet and outlet on the cooler so the sensors for these were fitted but drilling and tapping the cooler in the appropriate places.
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The cooler is a snug fit but uses all the space available. Although the water side of the cooler hadn't been fitted the car was in a position to be started. So the engine was filled with Millers competition running in oil. The fuel pump disconnected electrically and the same with the coil packs the key was turned......a click from the starter but no turning of the starter motor!
A quick look around the car revealed I hadn't tightened up the earth cable between the gear box and the body. With this tightened up the ignition was once again tried and the starer worked this time. I cranked the engine over until the oil pressure light went out. Coil packs and fuel pump reconnected the car was turned over and burst into life settling to a nice idle with everything sounding like it should. I let the car warm up and check the throttle works, which it did.   The main job left now is to plumb in the water side of the charge cooler.

It is a case of removing the rear quarter to access the filter but it only takes a few minutes to pop off.

Next job to tackle was the final wiring connections. I'd already trial fitted the loom to work out where everything needed to go but hadn't fitted a grommet where it goes through the bulkhead or soldered the wires that need to be joined to the Toyota loom. I reused the grommet from the Toyota loom and got all the multiplugs through it, which was quite a squeeze but I got there in the end. All the various plugs were reconnected, there are 3 wires that need to be soldered to the MR2 loom near the ecu, that was the wiring completed. The conversion loom made it a very easy job.
The cooling system was next. I had a set of Mishimoto red silicone hoses for the MR2 that I'd bought when I first got the car but hadn't got around to fitting so now was a perfect time to do so. I bought the cooling system conversion kit which came with a silicone hose to go from the thermostat housing on the front of the block to the one of the metal pipes under the car to the front.
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There's a metal pipe on the front of the engine block that comes from the back of the thermostat housing, this is connected to a t piece. The branch from the tee goes to the lower feed on the expansion tank and the other outlet goes to the metal pipe nearest the passenger side under the car.
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The Final metal pipe from under the car is connected to a cast aluminium 45° housing. The original mr2 coolant pipe is used but cut in 2 just after the first elbow from the engine. Also coming from this housing is an outlet to the temp sensor housing on the head and a couple of smaller pipes. One of these goes to the coolant feed to the turbo, the pipes are 2 different sizes so are adapted using a barbed brass adaptor. The final pipe goes to the top of the coolant expansion tank, again these are 2 different sizes so I used a brass adaptor.
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With the coolant system all reconnected I decided it would be a good idea to buy a tester kit to check my work rather than find out on the maiden voyage. I filled the system with water first in case there was leak and pressurised it to 1.5 bar for 30 minutes. The radiator cap is rated to let by at roughly 1 bar so the coolant system should never see this sort of pressure. Everything held up so the system was drained and then refilled with coolant.
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I downloaded and saved to my own folder when they were updated years ago. I print a few off as and when to keep in the glove box.