heat shield bolts

Anonymous · March 25, 2006, 18:57

any ideas or info i need to know before i tackle removing the heat shield bolts ? they look a bit of a bugger ! ps-first post s:D

s:D

thanks ken

Anonymous · March 25, 2006, 19:02

Hi Ken, welcome to the club! s:D

s:D

If you're just planning on removing the heatshield bolts, then Plusgas the night before and some more about 10mins before you start and a decent socket (Halfords Professional are pretty good) and you won't go far wrong. Worst that can happen is you snap a bolt and then you can't put the shield back on without drilling them out: No biggie, just run without the shield on. I did so for a year pre-turbo.

If you use the search function you will find heaps of information on here about removing bolts and other related things. Good luck! s:D

s:D

Anonymous · March 25, 2006, 19:24

cheers thanks for that s:wink: :wink: s:wink: Will possibly leave heat shield of it does look a bit taty only after 12k miles & 3 years of ownership.Or i could call to MRT & get a new one before the waranty runs out ! sure whats a heat shield when they have changed every thing else under waranty !! s:D

s:D

Anonymous · March 25, 2006, 21:35

I took my heat shield off today for a look at the header nuts, to prepare myself for a de-cat session in a week or two, unfortunatly the two bolts that are facing the muffler sheared, difficult to get WD-40 in the right place with those devils.
Not such a problem though it can be rectified when the header comes off.

Anonymous · March 26, 2006, 02:41

Yet more confirmation that sooner is better than later. If you're going to tackle this job, do it now. Don't wait.

Even if the heatshield bolts look dodgy, don't worry. There is very little thread that holds them on. It should crack loose pretty easy. Bolt loosener of any good quality should sit there for some 48 hours and then have at it.

Replace the bolts with high-quality zinc or stainless and paint the heatshield once you get it off. The finished result looks great.

If you're careful and take your time, that manifold will come off. Get it off and knock out the precats before they do a number on you. Your Spyder is counting on you.

Anonymous · March 26, 2006, 10:12

Quote from: "southerneditor"Your Spyder is counting on you.

*ahem* Roadster *ahem*

s:wink: :wink: s:wink: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:

Anonymous · March 26, 2006, 16:35

Point taken, Ekona.

But since you bring it up, let me ask what this business is with how you guys number your cars. I keep seeing references to '51 and '53 and these apparently identify particular year numbers. Where do these numbers come from and why is this designation useful?

aaronjb · March 26, 2006, 17:02

Quote from: "southerneditor"But since you bring it up, let me ask what this business is with how you guys number your cars. I keep seeing references to '51 and '53 and these apparently identify particular year numbers. Where do these numbers come from and why is this designation useful?

We're drifting a little here, but as long as it's only a short drift..

The numbers refer to the registration plates ('tags' s;)

s;) ) on our cars - since 2001, the second two digits in a car registration denote the year (Second digit of the pair) while the first represents first-half of the year (a zero) or second half (a 5), so 01 = first half, 2001, 53 = second half, 2003.

Anonymous · March 28, 2006, 07:12

Aaron: Ah... I see. So mine was from the second half of '01, which makes mine a 51. Very clever. Thank you for the clarification.

You guys do, as we say over here, rock.

philster_d · March 28, 2006, 08:36

No we are THE RoC ! s:)

s:)

Anonymous · March 28, 2006, 08:37

s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:

Anonymous · March 29, 2006, 22:01

try loctite freeze & release spray