Crossover Tweeter Setting Enquiry

[roger]

The crossover with my new speakers has a switch that increases the tweeter input/output(?) by 3db. The manual just offers you the choice, for your listening pleasure!

 My instinct is to switch it on, because presumably it gives better "voice" reproduction with the top down. Has anybody any experience? Can you confirm, or otherwise?

I want to try and get it right first time, rather than having to disrobe the car doors to adjust it.

Thanks

[Anonymous]

If running a sub and amp, then switch it on. Otherwise, leave it off.


That's how the crossover worked on my Focals, anyway.

[Anonymous]

It totally depends on how bright you like the treble. You can always adjust it on the head unit if you don't like it.

Are we talking silk or aluminium dome tweeters? I'd go for +3 with silk and 0 for aluminium. Personal preference really.

[markiii]

not quite that simple

every 3db increase is a doubling of volume

so setting it will double the tweeter volume

this will either make your bass and midrange sound really lacking at a a given volume or your treble really shrill

best it really depends on teh speakerpositioning and environment

if you mount teh tweeter isn teh foam under teh armrests you can easily get to it later.

[roger]

Thanks guys. It seems its a suck & see. Not sure what type Matt, might use that as a first go. Good idea Mark, see if I can position it with the switch reasonably accessible

[Leeber]

If it's any help, the crossover that came with my Rainbows had three different settings, I started with it on the mid setting but very quickly had to change it to the low setting, they were so shrill I thought my ears were going to bleed! The mid and high settings are good for cars with with a lot of upholstery and where the tweeters are mounted "off axis" (i.e. in the footwell or on the rear shelf for example) so to speak. In the '2 they're not very far away from your ears and the interior is almost entirely plastic so you basically get the full output of the tweeter blowing directly into your lughole with very little soft stuff around to absorb it.

In my setup, the rainbows are driven directly from the head unit and there's one of those Kenwood pushmepullyou subs in one of the rear bins.

As you say, it's probably a case of suck & see. Based on my (very limited) experience though, I would guess the lower setting would sound better in this particular car. HTH

[roger]

Well all fitted this weekend...only took 1 1/2 days   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  

Not fully tested (i.e. hood up in the rain), but certainly sounds better with the tweeter set as "standard" rather than + 3db.

What I did find out though is that I can increase my Fisher Price bass setting from 0 (where I had it before) to 5 without distortion at high volume   s:D s:D  but somehow i don't reckon the volume knob will be staying there   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

And, yes thanks Mark, I have monted the crossover on the polystyrene block under the armrest so I could mess around with the switch fairly easily (with a screwdriver rather than fingers - mine are too short & stubby)

TBH this set up has got the radio where I want it, so I won't be buying a sub or new HU....put into the Turbo fund   s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:

[philster_d]

Great Rog,

Did you need to make MDF rings ? or did you use the amazing new spyder mounting system ?

I measured up yesterday and ordered all the cables dynamat etc. Was planning on using Halfrauds but I had a minor heart attack when I saw their prices on sunday morning.

Philster.

[roger]

I used MDF, but I cheated a bit. Bought some ready made off UKroadster (ex owner / member). However the inner circle was 1/2" too small, so spent £12.99 on a jigsaw at Wickes! The OEM mount and speaker come as one piece so correctly sizing and scribing a new mount can be a bit difficult. So I thought I would make a template from my purchased mount (just in case this might help anybody) on to a piece of card. I can send it to you if you are going down that road, just PM your address.

One thing the kit doesn't give you (or mine didn't at least) was the female spade connectors for the large speakers. A bit annoying, meant a trip to H. As I said I had no amp or sub, so my wiring was very easy, just cut off one of the blocks from the standard wiring, and extended that to the crossover.

The tweeters come with varying mounting options. After much deliberation I used the one that holds the speaker (in a swivel cradle) that goes in from the front of the door card, and held on by a big "nut" at the back. Had to enlarge the existing hole in the door card, but IMO it looks great.

I know I am not doing a full an install as you, but any probs, give a shout and if I encountered them I'll let you know how I overcame them. Your answers might be better though!

One other thing, I chickened out putting "Dynamat" on the door itself or in place of the vapour sheet as the Spydermagazine article. I just plastered the inside of the door card. Seems OK.   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  

Best of luck.

[philster_d]

Thanks for the encouragement. Im planning to do it all soon, maybe even next weekend.

Phil