HELP Bolt Extractor sheared inside Sheared Stud

amble-gamble · April 12, 2009, 12:06

Not having much look s:(

s:(

Removing the manifold yesterday, 1 stud sheared...so I left it until today...drill it out to 6mm then used a stud extractor to remove the remaining stud.

However when turning the stud extrator on the reverse thread it has also sheared s:flame: :flame: s:flame:
it is flush with the block so can't any any moley's on it

Anybody have more advanced knowledge than me

Anonymous · April 12, 2009, 12:12

I have never been a fan of reverse thread stud extractors for this reason s:(

s:(

There is no chance of drilling them out as they are so hard, the only suggestion I have is to get a really good pin punch and gently try tapping it clockwise to remove the broken piece then drill + tap from there....Good luck

aaronjb · April 12, 2009, 13:00

We had the same thing happen with a stud extractor in an exhaust manifold stud (at the manifold->CAT joint) years ago - ended up taking it all to a machine shop where they had to spark-erode the stud & stud extractor out (and cursed us for trying to use a stud extractor in the first place!)

Anonymous · April 12, 2009, 16:13

I guess the following is worth a try. Get a steel nut and an arc welder. place the nut over the sheared stud and dab in the centre of the nut with the welder to attempt to build up weld attached to the remaining piece of stud and weld it to the inside of the nut. i find that the heat generated and any sort of a weld usually will remove most studs. Usually i dont use stud extractors but use torx drive hammered into a suitably drilled hole in the broken stud

Cap · April 12, 2009, 18:09

This is tricky.. but I've done it.. Takes patience and Skill ( Two Qualities I never have Enough Of.. But Im Learning.. )

A Carbide tipped Concrete drill will drill through a hardened shaft. The Masonry Drill must be new and sharp.. and SMALL.. ( 3 MM or smaller ) ALSO you must be able to get the drill EXACTLY in the center of the broken hard piece, and be able to PUSH hard and Straight ( With the Drill ) and SLOW on the Rotations..

It will help if you can heat up the 'Stud Extractor' with a Welding Torch, ( Acet and Oxygen ) to remove some of the Temper. But I've done it both ways..

The top of the 'Broken Insert' must be ground flat with a small grinder, or the Carbide drill will walk around and make it impossible to keep in the center.. if possible, make a small indent in the 'Hard Insert' with the grinder to aide in starting the small carbide drill.

For the Spyder most of the back will have to come off, to be able to get room to work.. Insert the SMALL Masonry drill ( Carbide inserted ) and start drilling slow about < 200 rpm AND PUSH HARD AND STRAIGHT.. have someone else there to 'View' your angle, as you do not want to 'Wander Off' with the Drill..

When I do a Job like this, I use new drills, and I sharpen them with a 'Green Stone' before I use them.. Usually takes about 2 or 3 drills, as you will feel when they are no longer Biting.. Be careful as you 'Punch Through' the back side of the broken insert.. as the carbide will want to shatter.. you will feel the 'Drill Biting Harder'..Start easing off in the pressure..

Cutting oil helps to keep the temps down on the carbide, and makes it last longer.. It's a CHORE.. The best thing to do is learn not to break the stud off in the first place.. Yea I know.. But you have to break off a few to be able to get the 'Feel' of when the bolt is moving, and when it's breaking..
I've learned not to rush a 'Blot removal' of ANY SIZE.. and if it takes Two Days to get a bolt out INTACT.. I'll do it, cause removing a Broken Bolt Sucks..

Then use a punch to 'Fracture' the insert to pieces, and 'Crumble it' out..

Then you have the Chore of getting the org piece out.. Drill it as large as posable, with a drill, till it's just a 'Shell' of threads.. Then I take a Metal 'Hack Saw' ( I hope that what you call a Metal cutting hand Saw ) and grind Down the 'Back' of the saw so it will fit into the now 'Hollow' stud piece.. And carefully 'Slice' the stud and that will release the 'Tension' on the threads, and you should be able to 'Fold it in on itself' and screw it out..

If you think it took a long time to read this.. Just wait till you try to remove the broken Pieces.. It'l take longer!!

Good Luck

Cap

Anonymous · April 12, 2009, 18:25

Are there any Dremmel bits that might help?

Cap · April 12, 2009, 20:10

If the 'Extractor' was not in very deep, then you might be able to 'Grind it Out'.. Give it a try.. if it doesn't work, you at least have the start for the drill trick

Cap

amble-gamble · April 13, 2009, 20:32

Thanks everyone s:)

s:)

Decision made...going to swap the head...I've sourced one just waiting to collect it