heater fan control

Started by gavw71, November 25, 2009, 14:00

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Print
Go Down Pages1
User actions

gavw71

November 25, 2009, 14:00 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Hello,
the other day I noticed that the control for the heater fan is not working as it should - I've got off and 2 speeds, not the 4 I should have. I've done a search but can't find any previous info.
Does anyone have any experience, before I start taking stuff to bits at the weekend.
Gav.
17" Team Dynamics Pro-Race 1.2\'s, TTE lowering springs, front & rear strut top braces, Markiii inlet pipe, K&N panel filter, CHE header, Magnex dual exit exhaust, Dastek Unichip, re-map by Noble Motorsport.

Tem

#1
November 25, 2009, 15:49 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
It's more or less common that the speed control thingy falls apart with age. It has just resistor wires and over time they break.

You can also fix it yourself, just solder the cut wires together or replace the broken wires. Or just buy a new one.

It's this part:
 m http://www.toyodiy.com/parts/p_E_2000_T ... ?hl=87138B m
Sure you can live without 500hp, but it\'s languishing.

gavw71

#2
November 26, 2009, 13:05 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Tem, thanks for the reply, you sound like you've got good experience with this.

I've just removed the heater fan control assembly, just to have a look and see if I could find the resistor you mentioned and must admit I'm stumped!

Do I need to remove the stereo to access the resistor?

Many thanks,

Gav.
17" Team Dynamics Pro-Race 1.2\'s, TTE lowering springs, front & rear strut top braces, Markiii inlet pipe, K&N panel filter, CHE header, Magnex dual exit exhaust, Dastek Unichip, re-map by Noble Motorsport.

cclarke99

#3
November 26, 2009, 13:21 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
The resistor is in the heater assembly. I'm writing this from the comfort of my desk, using the manual, so forgive me if I ask you to do anything impossible, but it looks like you should be able to see it. Under the dashboard on the passengers side on the heater box it in the place shown in the link from Tem above. Which two speeds have you got?

gavw71

#4
November 26, 2009, 14:29 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "cclarke99"The resistor is in the heater assembly. I'm writing this from the comfort of my desk, using the manual, so forgive me if I ask you to do anything impossible, but it looks like you should be able to see it. Under the dashboard on the passengers side on the heater box it in the place shown in the link from Tem above. Which two speeds have you got?

When I select "low" the fan starts and continues to run through the next two increments, with no increase in speed. It's only when "High" is selected that the fan speed increases.

I'd already put the control back in when I posted earlier, so I'll have another look for the resistor tomorrow or Saturday.
17" Team Dynamics Pro-Race 1.2\'s, TTE lowering springs, front & rear strut top braces, Markiii inlet pipe, K&N panel filter, CHE header, Magnex dual exit exhaust, Dastek Unichip, re-map by Noble Motorsport.

cclarke99

#5
November 26, 2009, 16:42 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
If you can get the switch out again (sorry) you can try the following tests

On the switch you should get the following

Terminal 1 should be connected to the following for each position (for the fault you describe, terminal 5 &6 will not be connected)

Switch position           Off     Low    2    3    High
Terminal connected    None   None   6    5     4

On the wiring loom connector, with the ignition on you should get 12V on terminals 4, 5 and 6 (again your fault should give 0V on 5 & 6)

muffdan

#6
November 26, 2009, 16:51 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "cclarke99"If you can get the switch out again (sorry) you can try the following tests

On the switch you should get the following

Terminal 1 should be connected to the following for each position (for the fault you describe, terminal 5 &6 will not be connected)

Switch position           Off     Low    2    3    High
Terminal connected    None   None   6    5     4

On the wiring loom connector, with the ignition on you should get 12V on terminals 4, 5 and 6 (again your fault should give 0V on 5 & 6)

Sorry, this is of interest to a little project I'm working on at the moment, in the above, what's the difference between Off and Low! If they are both connected to no terminal, how Low work?
Jason
[size=80]\'00 Cape Green MR2 with Hard top, A/C & Leather - SP Turbo - 320bhp[/size]
[size=100]AEM - [/size][size=96]ARP - [/size][size=92]Crower - [/size][size=88]Cusco - [/si

cclarke99

#7
November 27, 2009, 13:59 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Off is a separate switch terminal that controls the fan relay only, I left it out as it isn't (I hope) the problem

gavw71

#8
November 27, 2009, 14:08 Last Edit: January 1, 1970, 01:00 by Guest
Quote from: "cclarke99"If you can get the switch out again (sorry) you can try the following tests

On the switch you should get the following

Terminal 1 should be connected to the following for each position (for the fault you describe, terminal 5 &6 will not be connected)

Switch position           Off     Low    2    3    High
Terminal connected    None   None   6    5     4

On the wiring loom connector, with the ignition on you should get 12V on terminals 4, 5 and 6 (again your fault should give 0V on 5 & 6)

Thanks for the info CC. With respect to the terminals, are they numbered, or is it a case of 1 = top left, 2 = next along etc?
I'll probably be having a play around in the morning, all being well.
17" Team Dynamics Pro-Race 1.2\'s, TTE lowering springs, front & rear strut top braces, Markiii inlet pipe, K&N panel filter, CHE header, Magnex dual exit exhaust, Dastek Unichip, re-map by Noble Motorsport.
Print
Go Up Pages1
User actions
Tags: