Engine cover Screws

Started by ZeroQI, October 15, 2012, 17:40

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ZeroQI

Hi All, I found the screw size for my engine bay:

   . Engine cache uses M6 20 Grub Screw + Washers + dome Nuts for the top two and plastic for the bottom two [http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=32233&p=411501&hilit=grub+screw#p411501]
        - Replace with 2 M6 x 20 Grub Screw + M6 Washers + M6 dome Nuts Stainless Steel
        - Replace with two M6-10 screws alternativelly

   . Exhaust Manifold Heat-shield [http://www.midshiprunabout.org/mk3/painted-heatshield/]
        - Replace with 2 x M8 20mm 1.5mm with 2 x M8 washers.

Only issue is, for the two bottom plastic ones on the engine cache, i have a broken plastic bit in the hole...
How to i take them out ? Any help appreciated...
Toyota MR-S 2003 SMT 6-Speed Sable (matching hardtop, alloys) Red fabric Seats

Andys-N20

#1
If you are talking about the M6 on the cylinder head cover. What I do is tap a terminal screwdriver into the plastic and then screw it out.
Or get a drill smaller than the hole size, if it is M6 maybe use 4.0mm drill. Just chase the plastic out making sure that you drill straight (being plastic it wont put up much of a fight).
204.2 BHP Silver 2000 MR2, 2006 2ZZ engine, Apexi PFC, Zorstec full stainless system exhaust (including 400 cell cat & race header), titanium heat wrap, MRW underdrive pulleys, handmade short ram intake, Hondata intake gasket, Celica gearbox ratio's, LSD.
Edge 306 speakers, Alpine CDE 235BT, sound deadened doors.
Full facelift conversion including bracing, sub frame, the works...

ZeroQI

#2
Well, i tried unscrewing it and ended up pushing the f****r all the way... Ant it worked out that way...
I cut the small notch both sides then used a tiny pliers from my victorinox cyber edition swiss knife, grated some more and preparation were complete...
Put the washer, the grub screw and the dome nut...
Then removed the original two top dome nut screw (10mm socket) and replaced with washer and dome nut...

Looked brilliant and the washer fit exactly the place, flush and everything, like it was made for it.
Initially wanted dark ones, but chrome ones will match the zunsport grilles to come and match the silver lettering of the cache perfectly  s:D :D s:D

I used: [GBP 7.77 - seller atters153 was the cheapest with all the parts]
   . 2 x M6-20 grub screw http://www.ebay.ie/itm/180780885454?var=480051796870&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
   . 4 x M6 x 20mm washers [http://cgi.ebay.ie/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180604431962]
   . 4 x M6 dome nut... [http://cgi.ebay.ie/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180780885454&var=480051796870]
Toyota MR-S 2003 SMT 6-Speed Sable (matching hardtop, alloys) Red fabric Seats

Anonymous

#3
I used this type for the engine cover.       m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M6-A2-STAINLE ... 3f08a61a85 m

Andys-N20

#4
It may push the plastic screw in a little but it will only go in so far then the screwdriver will stab into the screw. The drill option works every time if that fails but its safer not to drill it.
Anyway im glad you managed
204.2 BHP Silver 2000 MR2, 2006 2ZZ engine, Apexi PFC, Zorstec full stainless system exhaust (including 400 cell cat & race header), titanium heat wrap, MRW underdrive pulleys, handmade short ram intake, Hondata intake gasket, Celica gearbox ratio's, LSD.
Edge 306 speakers, Alpine CDE 235BT, sound deadened doors.
Full facelift conversion including bracing, sub frame, the works...

ZeroQI

#5
mine had reverse cross pattern, and pattern wasn't protruding enough to unscrew it...
you can unscrew unless you can't  s:D :D s:D

So A2 stainless steel to avoid rust, M6-10 (simple) or M6-20 grub + dome nut+M6-20mm washer.
Am glad i did the dome nut one. they are much highter than the pics but look good and washer it a tight fit
Toyota MR-S 2003 SMT 6-Speed Sable (matching hardtop, alloys) Red fabric Seats

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