Turbocharging - 1zz or 2zz

[MR2Jay13]

Afternoon guys,

My mk3 mission is looking set to land in about 3 weeks  s:) s:)  

Now, the shell I have bought is a bad oil burner so I need to replace the engine. Later on in the project I will want to turbocharge the engine to increase the midrange more than  anything.

Now, as I am replacing the engine anyway, which engine is the most effective with a turbo kit on?

I know in na form, the 2zz is the better option but with my future plans I bow to your knowledge

Thanks guys

[Anonymous]

2zz will be more top end power but the 1zz will prefere it. also if you go 1zz the engine costs are less as you dont need all the 2zz adapters and the best ever turbo kit for a 1zz is up for sale just look in the private section.

[StuC]

I thought you wanted to go 1MZ?

[MR2Jay13]

I have weighed up the options and the one thing I don't like about the 1mz option is the fact you are lugging a damned great cast gearbox on it.

This has to upset the balance of the car and will effect the way it handles.

So, for what I ultimately want the 1zz is looking promising?

[dcod]

2zz supercharged? Just to throw that in there ...

[MR2Jay13]

I understand that although the kit to supercharge the 2zz is available, spatially there are clearance issues.

Ideally I do not want to be hacking bits off the car to make them fit  s;) s;)

[Anonymous]

good output 1zz with turbo and bracing and you wont want anymore.

[MR2Jay13]

I think I know what way I'll be going then  s:) s:)  

Cheaper, easier transplant and turbo tuning options available....

[Star_69]

Nothing beats a v6 for low down torque and smooth delivery. They really aren't as heavy as you think and don't effect the balance. 1zz is better to boost than the 2zz as its lower compression so can take more and has a stronger gearbox. Having had a supercharged 2zz for a few years, I'd say it was anything but but torquey. The boost evened out the delivery.. felt like it was in 'lift' permanently, which was great but you still needed to rev it hard. Don't get me wrong, was very fun but lacked midrange pull and you spent most your time between 6-8k when driving with spirit. 4-5k on a cruise.

Your best bet is to rebuild the current 1zz with boost in mind and get it all done at once if you wanted seriously high midrange  s:) s:)

[Wabbitkilla]

IMHO your best option for a boosted engine is to rebuild your 1zz with forged internals and then turbo charge it.
The 1zz is a surprising engine and can handle a turbo quite well, performance is very solid too.

[MR2Jay13]

Hmmm....

Been looking about and there seems to be a lot of cars with this engine fitted.....

Is there any difference between the MR2 engine and say, the Avensis 1zz-fe engine?

What would be involved in rebuilding the lump I have already? I thought that once they suffered from the oil burner syndrome, it caused damage to the block? As I say, having been in the MK2 for so long now, the MK3 is all new territory so you must excuse the newbie questions   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:

[Wabbitkilla]

Avensis engine is the same engine code but has smaller valves, I've heard of a hybrid Avensis block and MR2 head but it didn't run properly ... Don't know if he fixed it. Celica uses the same 1zz as far as I know.

It really depends on why it's burning oil, yes it can be oval bore and it can be precat ingestion, but sometimes it's just the oil rings and a hone and new rings / new pistons and rings can sort it. Obviously the only way to find out is to open the engine up. Ste's engine was burning copious amounts of oil before he had to rebuild it and it doesn't burn a drop now after new pistons, rings, and honing.

[MR2Jay13]

Cool, Thanks Nic  s:) s:)

So, in summary, avoid the Avensis engine, Celica one is good. Does it matter if it is a later engine or not? I understand that the Face Lift cars don't suffer as much. If I got a later engine, would I need the management etc or would it be plug and play with the pre face lift ancillaries?

[Wabbitkilla]

Post 2003 is better with a change in piston design improving oil supply to the rings but still not without their problems.
2005 saw another improvement to pistons and some other items, if you buy new pistons then they're the 2005 design and therefore the best possible. I would double check the Celica engine on Toyodiy to make sure valves etc are the same part numbers as the MR2 before committing.

ECU should be plug and play as long as it's any year MR2 engine, but if you are adding a turbo you will be needing a piggy back or standalone replacement ECU. Good results are got with Greedy e-manage, and ApexI PFC gives complete tuning without the cost of the more exotic standalones. When you take into account the cost of the additional pnp harness for the e-manage then the Apexi actually makes more sense and is more capable. You will need an add-on immobiliser though to replace the one built into the OEM ECU.

[MR2Jay13]

Fantastic, great info there  s:) s:)  

So, I now know what to hunt for and have a basic principle in mind for adding a little forces induction.

As I say, the plan is to replace the engine to get it running, sort out the styling etc and get it on the road. Once I have reached that point, I'll then be looking at tuning mods. I just wanted to ensure that I went the right route for me from the beginning

Thanks guys  s:) s:)

[Wabbitkilla]

Tuning in any form isn't cheap   s:wink: :wink: s:wink:  
Don't forget to factor in around £500 for proper mapping or all your time and hard work is wasted.