replacing broken wheel studs

Started by theredone, November 30, 2013, 22:13

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

theredone

having spent the afternoon attempting to fit a new near side rear wheel stud on a 54 reg fl - without success - some help is required.
I`ve read all the historic posts anent the subject and there appears to be 2 schools of thought on the ease of the operation :-
1/. it`s a piece of p*ss - knock the old one out and tap the new one in. just line up the offending stud with the cut out in the dust plate.
2/.while it is easy enough to tap out the broken stud, it`s impossible to get the head of the new stud through the gap in the carrier and the brake caliper has to come off.

is it possible that there is a minute difference between pfl and fl ?

tomorrow I will get the car over the pit and see if I can get at it from the other side

ps - the lower half of the dust plate has more or less rusted away   s:( :( s:(

trevsmr2

#1
Quote from: "theredone"having spent the afternoon attempting to fit a new near side rear wheel stud on a 54 reg fl - without success - some help is required.
I`ve read all the historic posts anent the subject and there appears to be 2 schools of thought on the ease of the operation :-
1/. it`s a piece of p*ss - knock the old one out and tap the new one in. just line up the offending stud with the cut out in the dust plate.
2/.while it is easy enough to tap out the broken stud, it`s impossible to get the head of the new stud through the gap in the carrier and the brake caliper has to come off.

is it possible that there is a minute difference between pfl and fl ?

tomorrow I will get the car over the pit and see if I can get at it from the other side

ps - the lower half of the dust plate has more or less rusted away   s:( :( s:(
Ive not done one on the MK3, but easy enough on the MK2
if they will come out without removing the caliper, then i would have thought they should go in ?

theredone

#2
the stud had sheared almost at the head and that was fished out via the rusted bottom of the dust plate.
1`ve now got the car over the pit and will have a go at it tomorrow from the inside. I am  hoping to get a burr on the drill and buff a little metal away

monsi

#3
Hi, I've replaced one on the rear.

 I managed to remove the old one without taking the caliper off, but to refit the new one required unbolting the caliper and a bit of patience to get it lined up  :-) :-) :-)
Simon

[size=85]Sable 2003 Roadster
1ZZ, GT25R, Dual path exhaust, Sports Cat, 440cc Injectors, Chargecooler, Yellowstuff pads, Braided hoses, Custom bracing, Sports springs, Polybushes, Megasquirt - Coming soon boost control and water injection!
[/size]

theredone

#4
well - managed to successfully fit the new wheel stud today. it`s much easier to get at from the inward side. I buffed the sides of the gap out a little using a small grinding stone and the black & decker. the studs will now pop in quite easily.
next task will be to replace the other 7 studs on the rear hubs.
I have taken the precaution of torquing the new wheel nut / stud  up to 73 ft lbs ( and the other 3 on the hub ) instead of the recommended  76 ft lbs ( 103 nms ) just to be on the safe side.

ad_car_08

#5
Just f'in snapped an f'in wheel stud too!!!
Anyone recommend somewhere in Telford or Derby to get a replacement sharpish?!.. Meant to be driving to my brother's in the morning to fit my coilovers!!

Euro car parts any good? GSF?
[size=85]2004 Sable MR2 Roadster - Track toy
Honda Civic EX 1.0T - Company Car
[/size]

StuC

#6
Have you tried steve@d1? Lil bit off the beaten track to Derby, but not a million miles away or try dean at Rutland mr2
URBAN CUSTARD COLLECTIVE FOUNDING MEMBER

ad_car_08

#7
Ahh, thanks Stu!!
[size=85]2004 Sable MR2 Roadster - Track toy
Honda Civic EX 1.0T - Company Car
[/size]