Argh Help!

Started by Anonymous, October 4, 2004, 19:48

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Anonymous

Alright,

I got my new sportupuff exhaust fitting, but the garage turns out to be a bit dodgy.

For a start the tips are awfully aligned, the right tip much lower, much more protruding and angled inwards, the left tip is straight BUT

It's touching the bumper, and it definitely gets very hot.

On the short trip home (about 3 miles) I could smell burning plastic from the tip.

So what do I do, can I drive with it at all? Is there anyway I can quickly make the tip lower.  What can I do?

I have the worse luck, I was really annoyed at the mechanic and argued with him for ages, but he said it was the best he could do.  For the money I could have bought the tools and done it myself.

Any help would be really appreciated, especially before tomorrow before I have to drive to work.

Anonymous

#1
Odub,

The exhaust is fully adjustable, the left hand tip can swivel up or down - for height against the bumper (slacken clamp (14mm nut) and raise / lower tip, re -tighten clamp ). The protrusion of both tips out from the bumper can be altered by use of different rubber mounts - you just have to use trial and error until you get the perfect fit.

Greg    s:D :D s:D    s:D :D s:D

Anonymous

#2
It is adjustable, that mechanic was full of the proverbial

Should have saved some of that money and bought myself a spanner

Anonymous

#3
I couldn't be a pain and ask exactly where the clamp i need to adjust for height is?

Do i need to raise the car to get at it? and can this just be done with a spanner,

i really am mechanicaly ignorant

Anonymous

#4
I know that it's a bit late   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:   but with regards to the alignment of the right pipe, I had similar issues with the Sportauspuff, see enclosed

 m http://www.mr2roc.org/forum/viewtopic.p ... ight=wheel m

Anonymous

#5
Its not too late at all.

I had seen you mail about that, is searched everywhere for info about this trust me.

So i took it to the local garage today, we had a reet go at it and put straight some things the dodgy mechanic had done like tighten the clamp on the silencer pipe and replaced the bolts he'd forgot to replace.

My left tip is not perfect.

The right tip though, even with longer bushings, is still protruding, but what's worse it that it's skewed maybe 10 degrees so the left side of the tip if higher than the right, and also nearer to the front of the car that the right tip.

Also, since taking it to the garage just then, there's a HUGE rattle at 2500 revs, I'll have to go take a look at that later.

Really, wish I hadn't have bothered, or done it all myself, to be fair the mechanic today didn't want paying even though he'd spent about 30 minutes on it).

Anonymous

#6
Alright,

Because the right tip is screwed, do you think the whole exhaust could have been bolted onto the car in the wrong way, i don't really know how it connects but i guess the 4 rubber mounts + the connection to the cat pipe.

I can't undserstand how it's scewed as that side seems to attach straight onto the muffler in a single wielded pipe, surely nothing i'm going to be able to do will rotate it to the right degree.

Maybe i need to drop the left side down more, and change the bracket as roadblade suggests.  Argh dammit, and WHERE THIS RATTLE COMING FROM.

Anonymous

#7
Wayhey, got rid of the rattle, a bit of the side heat sheild thingy was touching the pip, bent it back hey presto.

spit

#8
Odub. The extra bracket that comes with the Sportsauspuff can be oriented in a couple of different ways. I trialled-and-errored to get the alignment right.

However, the rubber that they send you is way too small - my local garage gave me one with more space between the holes and the alignment is much better for it.

I still need to take off the loose pipe (left as you look from the back) and have it heated and twisted inward slightly - its pointing slightly out of line - but only noticeable if you're looking for it!

One other prob I've got is the black paint flaking on the inside of the oval muffler tips - anyone else got a flaky 'puff?
1999 MR-S with added C2 POWΣR

Humbled recipient of the Perry Byrnes memorial trophy (2007 & 2011)

GSB

#9
Flakey paint is bound to happen if you apint the inside of the exhasut. I imagine that they paint it black to make it look nice on the shelves, expecting the insides to be covered in carbon eventually anyway...

MY H&S pipe was shiny stainless steel inside, and took a good few weeks to go black. Supermarket fuel seems to accelerate the process though.  s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
[size=50]Ex 2001 MR2 Roadster in Silver
Ex 2004 Facelift MR2 Roadster in Sable Grey
Ex 2007 Mazda 6 MPS in Mica Black
Current 2013 Mazda MX5 2.0 \'Venture Edition\' Roadster Coupe in Brilliant Black[/size]

Anonymous

#10
You see thats whats great about this board, somebody from here sold it me, everyone else chips in with hints and tips.

Took this afternoon off work to have a go at aligning them, got 2 longer bands from halfrords - not to mention socket set and spanner set, also recommended on here!.

Moved the bracked wigled the rubber off, took the whole bumper off, had a pok around and have got them much better, although still not perfect, i'd say 90%, from 60%.

I don't think the extra neatness is going to come from rubber bands though.  The pipe needs heating and moving.

One thing i did notice is my cat to muffler connection point, the "flange" is meant to have 2 screws with 2 springs right?  well i got 1 spring and 2 obviously new bolts, no idea how much to tighten them - this could be the root of my problems.  I'm also pretty sure i can hear a leak coming from there, would this be a "bad thing"?

Anyway, also instaled the inlet duct, great instuctions here, i should have read them before spending about 10 minutes trying to get the rubber "screw out", little tip for pulling it out, get a spanner underneath it.  

Anyway, as long as i'm not gassing myself with C MO everytime i drive anywhere, i'm happy for the moment.

GSB

#11
The sprung bolts on the cat to silencer flage are designed so that you just screw them in until they stop turning, and that sets the preload on the springs. Theres a sort of "sholuder" machined into the bolt.

If it leaks, then you need to get hold of a new graphite gasket for it.
[size=50]Ex 2001 MR2 Roadster in Silver
Ex 2004 Facelift MR2 Roadster in Sable Grey
Ex 2007 Mazda 6 MPS in Mica Black
Current 2013 Mazda MX5 2.0 \'Venture Edition\' Roadster Coupe in Brilliant Black[/size]

Anonymous

#12
Hmm,

Well since theres only one spring and the others just bolted in and both screws don't have a clear bit of thread, i'd say something was very wrong.

Is there a sure fire way to know if it was leaking, would it get into the cabin?

GSB

#13
Its the springs that hold the joint together, and allow it to flex without leaking.

No spring = Leak...

That said, the leak is only 6 inches at most from the exhasut tip, and you dont get fumes in the cabin from there, so I'd say it was good enough to drive back to the workshop and kick their arses for them...
[size=50]Ex 2001 MR2 Roadster in Silver
Ex 2004 Facelift MR2 Roadster in Sable Grey
Ex 2007 Mazda 6 MPS in Mica Black
Current 2013 Mazda MX5 2.0 \'Venture Edition\' Roadster Coupe in Brilliant Black[/size]

Anonymous

#14
Yeah he's getting an earful tomorrow I can tell you.

I'm new to all this, first time ever using a ratchet and all that, I'm just worried I'm going to kill myself I guess. The more I do, the more I see it's not rocket science though.  It's just apply logic with some pre-knowledge. I've got the logic, just need the knowledge now!

All this help is more than appreciated though.

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