IAC Valve Removal

[viper_rage]

Hi Guys,

I have a 2001 mk3 MR2, I bought it a couple of months ago and am slowly going through my list of jobs I need doing on it.

I've already changed the sparks, complete oil change and replaced the brakes. I have however noticed that the car seems to reliably stall when the engine is hot and I drop the revs to idle. After doing some reading up I have decided it's probably the IAC valve.

Now I have done some serious googling, and cannot seem to find any videos/how to's on how to actually take the TB/IAC Valve off and service the valve. How many of you have done this before? Is it as complicated as I fear it looks?

Does anybody know of any documentation/how tos online?

Thanks a lot for taking the time to read  s:D s:D  

Charlie

[shnazzle]

Hi Charlie.
Does this help?:  l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=28021 l

[viper_rage]

Hello!

Thanks for the reply.

I had a quick shifty at that and there are a few things i'm uncertain on. Like how to remove the throttle cable etc.

Also, is this a job that needs to be done from under the car? Slightly scared to start taking it to bits without a detailed guide on doing it :S

Isn't really something I want to go into underprepared!

[shnazzle]

The throttle cable comes off quite easily. It's eerily similar to an old push bike brake cable. i.e. It's just held in place with a little metal ball at the end. so you push in the throttle lever and the slack on cable allows you to take it off.
Can't imagine this is very easy to do from the bottom of the car as the throttle is all the way on the top. Although I did adjust my throttle cable from the bottom once, it was very fiddly.
Access is the killer here as it's in the back of the engine and there's really no way you can look at it.
The easiest might be to take off the entire throttle body and go from there.

There's quite a few on here who have done this so...pending response  s:) s:)

[spit]

Yes, remove the throttle body to work on the IAC. By far the easiest way.

With throttle cable and air pipes removed, along with the IAC and TPS plugs disconnected, you just need to clamp the two water feed/return pipes at the base of the IAC valve and the whole assembly will lift away.

Soak the IAC screws well before trying to remove them. They can round off very easily without a good quality screwdriver. They're likely to be very tightly locked on. Apply pressure when unscrewing.

The IAC coil (black bit with the connector) is retained with the rare 5 point torx. You need to mark off the position of this before removing it - the holes are slotted to allow adjustment - otherwise you'll reassemble and end up with a madly hunting idle.

Clean out the valve with carb cleaner until it is spinning freely.

A new gasket is advisable - they tend to stretch and fit poorly if re-used. Alternatively, get some decent gasket compound in there to help the existing rubber seat OK.