Changed control points for chassis?

[Anonymous]

Ladies and Gentlemen,

I had so-called "geometry check" after my accident and the guys at Toyota service told me for "control points" length changed in 0.3-0.7 cm and width changed up to 2 cm. And I need additional repair with complete car disassembly (priced around $5K here). Can anybody tell me how critical these parameters are and it it safe to drive such a car now?

Thank you!

[Tem]

I had so-called "geometry check" after my accident and the guys at Toyota service told me for "control points" length changed in 0.3-0.7 cm and width changed up to 2 cm. And I need additional repair with complete car disassembly (priced around $5K here). Can anybody tell me how critical these parameters are and it it safe to drive such a car now?

It means your chassis is bent. It might not affect safety, but it can ruin the handling. Only way to know for sure is to try it...

If you're going to keep the car, I think you should get it fixed. If you're selling it, let the buyer know about this issue (which will probably lower the price more than 5k).

[Anonymous]

Tem,

just great   s:( s:(  OK, what do you mean by "to know for sure is to try it...". Is there anything special I need to check or is it "just use this car for some time and see how much would it cost to you"?

Thank you!

I had so-called "geometry check" after my accident and the guys at Toyota service told me for "control points" length changed in 0.3-0.7 cm and width changed up to 2 cm. And I need additional repair with complete car disassembly (priced around $5K here). Can anybody tell me how critical these parameters are and it it safe to drive such a car now?

It means your chassis is bent. It might not affect safety, but it can ruin the handling. Only way to know for sure is to try it...

If you're going to keep the car, I think you should get it fixed. If you're selling it, let the buyer know about this issue (which will probably lower the price more than 5k).

[Jap GT300]

The cost is so high because Toyotas will remove the rear sub assembly, this supports the gearbox which supports the engine so they will both come out as well   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  

Does the car drive with a crabbing effect and what conditions are the tyres in?  I would have thought there would be flat spots etc..

It could just be one of the chassis legs needs a little pull.  If you get this done privately it should cost very little.  A good Mechanic should be able to do the work without touching the spot welds.

[Anonymous]

This is *exactly* what they promised to do  :-) :-) :-)  Plus removing all of the cabin interrior as well. Maybe to make the numbers round  :-) :-) :-)

Tyres are new, old ones (originally came from Toyota and beeing used long after that crash actually happened) have identical usage (no spots). No crabbing effect, no damage can be visually detected. Wheels have been "recalibrated" (I have no idea about how it would be in right English, sorry...) and all positions are in range. Even somewhere in the middle (according to the computer-generated log). Driving is no problem at all, at 140 mph I can get hands away from the driving wheel and car moves forward, no direction change for a while.

Good Mechanic... I'm looking for one with eyes wide open  :-) :-) :-)  All of the local guys I know either have never seen such a car before and either honestly refuse to service it or doing something even I consider as WRONG. At Toyota service they did not notice a "pillow" between gear box and engine is broken (bolts are crushed) for at least TWO times car has been serviced... Wise guys  :-) :-) :-)

Thank you!

The cost is so high because Toyotas will remove the rear sub assembly, this supports the gearbox which supports the engine so they will both come out as well   s:shock: :shock: s:shock:  

Does the car drive with a crabbing effect and what conditions are the tyres in?  I would have thought there would be flat spots etc..

It could just be one of the chassis legs needs a little pull.  If you get this done privately it should cost very little.  A good Mechanic should be able to do the work without touching the spot welds.

[Tem]

OK, what do you mean by "to know for sure is to try it...".

I mean that if it drives ok, then you don't really have to worry about it. And since you said it's ok at 140mph, I'm sure it's just fine  s;) s;)

You also said the wheel geometry is within spec and that's what really matters. I wouldn't pay 5k to fix a problem that doesn't affect anything  s8) s8)

[Anonymous]

That's what I wanted to hear  :-) :-) :-)

Actually this partucular problem came to me from previous owner. I was lucky to have small accident so major problems came visible clear. Now trying to fix what I can and skipping what I don't care  :-) :-) :-)

Thank you!

OK, what do you mean by "to know for sure is to try it...".

I mean that if it drives ok, then you don't really have to worry about it. And since you said it's ok at 140mph, I'm sure it's just fine  s;) s;)

You also said the wheel geometry is within spec and that's what really matters. I wouldn't pay 5k to fix a problem that doesn't affect anything  s8) s8)