Help sourcing chain tensioner

doubletapthat · May 25, 2016, 19:20

Hi Guys,

I have noticed that the chain tensioner on my '04 MR2 is weeping oil - it looks like its been this way for a while. So I am looking to buy a new one. Should I go direct to Mr T for this one or are eBay options like this m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FEBI-BILSTEIN ... Swh-1W4A~V m acceptable? As a side note, what happened to cheap toyota parts / genuine service parts? I tried to visit the website but it just says closed for business and is password protected... I have sent an email regardless.

Before I identified the chain tensioner as being the source I popped it into the garage across the road from where I worked and asked them to have a look... they said the head gasket was leaking oil and would be £600 to fix but neither of their mechanics would bother if it was their car. Needless to say, I won't be going there again... s:scared: :scared: s:scared:

Carolyn · May 25, 2016, 19:22

All you need is a new 'O' ring on the tensioner. Do a quick search on here, you'll find what you need.

21.82 x 3.53 mm from Sealforce. You'll find them on EBAY.

doubletapthat · May 25, 2016, 19:38

Quote from: "Carolyn"All you need is a new 'O' ring on the tensioner. Do a quick search on here, you'll find what you need.

21.82 x 3.53 mm from Sealforce. You'll find them on EBAY.

Thanks for your quick response Carolyn. Are they generally bulletproof then? You don't think it's worth replacing the whole unit through wear and tear?

Carolyn · May 25, 2016, 19:50

They are far more notorious for leaking (very common) than breaking. If there are no chain rattles - it's working.

Look in the 'How to's' for the best way to do the job.

doubletapthat · May 25, 2016, 20:28

Quote from: "Carolyn"They are far more notorious for leaking (very common) than breaking. If there are no chain rattles - it's working.

Look in the 'How to's' for the best way to do the job.

Thanks Carolyn, O-Ring it is!

footslog · July 22, 2016, 15:05

I visited my local Mr T this morning to pick up an oil filter, sump washer and tensioner O-ring, for the usual oil change plus "see-if-I-can- stop-the-tensioner-leaking" exercise. I've had several goes now, trying just a new O-ring, then new O-ring and PTFE tape wrapping (twice), new O-ring and Loctite black silicon, etc, but it keeps on weeping.

Today I was informed Toyota no longer sell the O-ring separately, you have to buy the whole tensioner! They quoted £35+VAT. The tensioner has no sign of damage or distortion and clearly is still doing its job, though I wonder if there might be some slight distortion of its flange or mating surface that's pulling it out of true when bolted up to the engine. The mating surface on the engine block looks true enough as far as I can tell.

Before I stump up for a new tensioner, I'll try an O-ring from Sealforce as described in Carolyn's previous post. But the correct size is offered in three different materials: Viton 75, Nitrile 70 or Silicone 70 - any ideas which one I should go for?

Thanks!

Carolyn · July 22, 2016, 16:46

Viton. The Sealforce 'O' ring is slightly fatter and fits tighter. Make sure you put some oil on it before you put it in the engine. Also, you can lightly rough up the internal surface where the O ring will sit with some 600 grit wet & dry paper, then clean the surface. Helps it seal better.

footslog · July 22, 2016, 17:03

Thanks for the advice, Carolyn. Hopefully the Sealforce O-ring together with a little work with the wet & dry paper will finally cure it.

Bossworld · January 28, 2017, 11:24

Will changing the tensioner itself properly resolve any slight weeping? I've fitted the sealforce ring and my engine isn't burning oil, but I think it's still leaking from around the tensioner area. The area directly beneath it looks wet (admittedly I haven't steam cleaned the engine bay or anything to remove the residual oil).

Torqued to the spec mentioned on here (think it was 10nm but would have to double check - whatever it was, was correct). Is there any mileage in tightening further?

Carolyn · January 28, 2017, 11:59

Perhaps the inner surface of the casting where the tensioner goes could do with a clean with some 600 grit wet and dry (as suggested above). A bit of texture will help the O ring. The base of the tensioner (where the studs go through) is not really intended to be part of the seal, so the torque won't affect any leak.
Might as well give the area a clean so you can see what's going on.
Did you oil the O ring before you put the tensioner in?

Bossworld · January 28, 2017, 18:00

Smeared oil around the o ring as advised, did take the tensioner in and out a couple of times when I did it, as I thought the 'click' would be more pronounced, but that shouldn't have wiped it away hopefully. I'll have a go with the sand paper when it's warmer. Thanks for the clarification re the base plate