Insulation and Flashing Strip

[The Other Stu]

To try and deaden the doors a little, I've bought some self-adhesive insulation panels and some flashing tape, however, I'm confused.

Think of the door being 3 skinned - the outside metal, the inside metal and the plastic with the door card.

Now clearly, the plastic bit, I can ignore. It's not the bit that needs help, so.......

Firstly, I'm guessing you need to remove the clear plastic membrane over the middle piece of metal?
How do you insulated the outer door? There's not much room to work with. Has anyone successfully managed to get something covering it? Or do I simply worry about the middle skin?

[vx220]

Deaden as much of the outer skin as possible, including between the skin and the door bars

Cover as much of the inner skin as possible, filling the large access holes in the panel to make extra bass

Get a sheet of 6-9mm closed cell foam (camping/yoga mats) between the inner door skin and the door card to prevent the plastic vibrating

DON'T USE FLASHING TAPE

Buy proper deadening, make sure it's butyl based, much more effective so you'll use a lot less

Most importantly,  try not to get your car stolen after you've finished, very upsetting!

[The Other Stu]

Yup, that's the stuff I have - it's around 9mm. But I've only enough for 1 layer.
Hence why I had the flashing tape too - what's wrong with it? I know other people said it was good.

[vx220]

Flashing tape struggles to stay stuck, and you need four or five layers to make the same difference as one layer of Dynamat or Silent Coat

It's better than nothing, but I did a really good job on the doors and rear firewall in my roadster for about £48 iirc?

[onion86]

I only used flashing tape and was happy with the difference it made for £12... However, dynamat will obviously make a lot more. No issue with it sticking but I did it on a 25oC day. Here's an idea though:

Inside:


Outside:


Membrane back on:

[The Other Stu]

Thanks guys   s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:  

I'll probably be looking at a hybrid of those Stu. The dynamat type stuff I have (can't remember what it's called, but it's from Amazon and looks the same) will go happily then on the outer skin. I'll think about the inner later.

[MR Roadie 2]

I used flashing tape on my doors and had no issue fitting the flashing tape, even with 8c temperature when fitting. My tip would be used a small (30mm wide) hard painters roller and a heat gun.

[vx220]

Thanks guys   s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:  

I'll probably be looking at a hybrid of those Stu. The dynamat type stuff I have (can't remember what it's called, but it's from Amazon and looks the same) will go happily then on the outer skin. I'll think about the inner later.

I'd do both while its apart, sealing those big holes makes a good difference to the bass. Deadening the outer skin reduces rattles and vibrations from the speaker and road noise, but doing the two together make the biggest difference

[The Other Stu]

Well, no-one warned me about the black stuff. It's a really dirty job. If the foam touched my hand, the glue and some foam stuck to it. Eurgh.

However, I had 8 sheets of foam and it covered the outer skin (and enough left over to do the bottom of the door, if you see what I mean)
I'm not sure how it compared with dynafoam, but it was way too thick to have stuck on the outer skin.

I used the flashing stuff on the inside skin, although it's nowhere near as tidy as the ones above - I simply covered everything I possibly could.

Put the clear cover over the top and put it all back together. It sounds great, although I won't know until I take the car out for a decent spin with the roof down and unless that happens tomorrow evening, it's not going to be until next week (Camping this weekend).

Cheers for all the help   s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:  Another job down.